HLPXX63W Owners Thread/Problems/Tweaks/Service Menu/Discretes etc.

[swest]

As far as I can tell the HLP-XX63 series got short-changed w.r.t. a dedicated thread for SM tweaks, 63-specific problems, etc...

This may be a little late in coming, but now that <I> have one of these sets, I expect everyone to drop whatever they're doing and contribute here.

For starters, has <anyone> made extensive SM modifications that they would share here?

[htwaits]

From the General Samsung HLP Issues & Questions (Post all here) thread a short while ago.

Originally posted by swest
Les, did I read a while back that you had ended up purchasing an HLP-5063 (or maybe a 6163)? If so have you made any SM tweaks, or implemented anyone else's SM tweaks?

I have a HLP5063 and based on what others have reported I set gamma to zero in the SM.

In the UM I've set sharpness to zero and used the DVE disk to set brightness. That improved detail in dark scenes a lot.

I've also turned off all the "image enhancement" features -- sharpness, DNIe and DNR.

I'm using Cinema Mode with contrast at 90, brightness at 45, and color at 48.

I'm setting up an appointment with SethS (Seth Schnaible) for a ISF calibration in January. Seth consults with Samsung and is an ISF instructor. He has done a lot of work with the "63" models and owns the HLP5063.

Cheezmo (Steve Martin) is another ISF certified calibrator who owns the HLP5063. Steve has been contributing a lot of good advise in the HLP5674W/HLP4674W Owners Thread/Problems/Tweaks/Service Menu/Discretes etc. thread.

[swest]

htwaits,

I noticed in one of your posts in one of those <other> HLP threads that you said:

My meager understanding is that each gamma setting represents a different array of configuration data that the light engine uses. Others thought that Gamma = 0 was an improvement over the OTB setting -- in my case that was Gamma = 6.

OOTB, my HLP-5063W's gamma was set to 2. Anyone know why these would be different?

[htwaits]

Originally posted by swest
OOTB, my HLP-5063W's gamma was set to 2. Anyone know why these would be different?

There are several different OTB GAMMA settings that have been reported.

[OrangeKid]

Attached is a zipped Excel spreadsheet showing service menu default settings and tweaks for firmware versions 1013 and 1028 set up by another AVS member. I added the Service Menu default settings of my HLP5063W with firmware 1033. Others may wish to add other firmware versions as well as SM tweaks. I am not currently using DVI or HDMI inputs. I have not tweaked the SM yet.

Others members may wish to add other firmware versions. It would be most useful if we know the firmware version when any service menu tweaks are made.

[zlindsay328]

Based on htwaits suggestions I skimmed through that thread and summarized the info I found helpful, given by cheezmo....to save you all from having to read all 39 pages.

"The more video process/sharpness/enhancement that is applied, the more fine detail will get messed up. I would suggest turning off both DNIe and Digital NR, and turning down sharpness to 0. What you lose in "artificial enhancements" will be made up for in accurate detail. Other than that, it depends on the cameras, focus, etc. and of course resolution.

If you have one of the HLP sets, make sure you set your picture size to Expand when viewing HD (720p) material. You'll get less overscan and 1:1 pixel mapping.

Usually the Warmest mode or "reddish/pinkish" is closest to the industry standard, but results may vary, which is what ISF Calibration is for.

To evaluate a TV feed, I would recommend viewing the HDNet test pattern if you get HDNet (aired every Tuesday morning) to evaluate your HD contrast/brightness and a test pattern DVD like Avia to set your DVD player.

There is a pattern on DVE specifically designed for setting contrast on fixed pixel displays. I don't have it handy, but it should have two crossing white "ramps" at the top.... Title 12 Chapter 14.

The only significant thing that will change with the bulb aging is grayscale."

[zlindsay328]

Originally posted by OrangeKid
Attached is a zipped Excel spreadsheet showing service menu default settings and tweaks for firmware versions 1013 and 1028 set up by another AVS member. I added the Service Menu default settings of my HLP5063W with firmware 1033. Others may wish to add other firmware versions as well as SM tweaks. I am not currently using DVI or HDMI inputs. I have not tweaked the SM yet.

Others members may wish to add other firmware versions. It would be most useful if we know the firmware version when any service menu tweaks are made.

Gald to see someone is finally using this spreadsheet to sharing their settings. Now if only we can find some bonafide tweaks. It is interesting to see how some of the values change with each firmware revision. I wonder if that means Samsung is getting better at perfecting their picture output?

[swest]

Thanks, so much, for contributing to this thread.

My, very recently acquired, direct-from-Samsung HLP-5063 is being looked at today by a tech in preparation for fixing a dead mirror (probably a LE replacement.) I'll probably be playing with the set later tonight. If I find my firmware version is later than 1028, I'll add my default settings to the spreadsheet.

[Vichy]

Just got a HLP6163W and my dark scenes look like crap (16 color image) unless I set my brightness to over 80, nothing else will fix it, but then my black levels suck. I dont have the courage yet to start messing with the service menu.

[swest]

The only DVD I've watched, so far, on my 5063 is The Bourne Supremacy. I also felt I had to up the brightness setting to get a watchable image. However, as others have mentioned, this may not be the best benchmark DVD. I hope to get some time with Video Essentials tonight or tomorrow.

[htwaits]

I posted this in the General Samsung HLP Issues & Questions (Post all here) thread yesterday. Maybe it will come in handy here.

Originally posted by millerwill
htwaits: Is it possible for you to give a step-by-step 'idiot proof' protocol for going into the SM and making this gamma change? I've never been into the SM and have always been nervous about the idea. But you sound like it's worth it. (Have a 6163.)

Can one idiot protect other idiots?

Here are the "enter-SM" instructions for the HLN sets. They are the same for a HLP set but the contents of the SM and navigation keys are different. I haven't checked all the navigation instructions myself.

Find Samsung Firmware Version:

The firmware version installed on any set is recorded on the first page of the SM. There is a long ID number at the bottom of the page. The last three digits (HLN) or last four digits (HLP) are the firmware version of your set.

Remember that in any dealing with Samsung you are not supposed to know your firmware version.

Record your User Settings for "Picture" before you enter the SM. The HLP sets will revert to factory defaults for the UM when you exit the SM.

Instructions for accessing the Samsung Service Menu:

Anyone using these suggestions should know that the only change I have ever made to the SM is changing GAMMA from the default value to zero. I have never "messed around" in the SM. Remember that there is no reset function. If you see something that looks like one don't use it.

I can recommend, without any reservations, recording all original SM settings before making additional changes.

****** Thanks to LCH. 09/02/2003 ******

Turn Melody off in the user menu (allows entering the Service Menu from power On state without using a lamp cycle).

With the set ON, press Power-Mute-1-8-2-Power in quick succession.
(If the set is already off, just do Mute-1-8-2-Power )

The service menu should appear for the input you were viewing before keying the above sequence. Be sure to give the set enough time to complete the process(30-60 seconds).

While in the service menu, you can change inputs with the TV/Video button to view the SM for other modes.

Use the CH up, CH down & select keys to navigate the Service Menu. Press MENU to return to the main Service Menu after viewing individual functions.

Later, you will use the VOL(+) & VOL(-) keys to change the SM values.

" ... when you access the SM on the HLPxx63 (probably all HLP models), the directional arrows around the "Enter" button control navigation, not the volume and channel buttons ..." MacGyver1970.

To Exit the SM, power off. Leave it off for several(30) seconds. (until all cooling activity is complete)

Example steps to change GAMMA on a HLP5063 with firmware version 1011 and a build date of May 2004:

The SM main menu looks like this.

1. DDP1011 (The GAMMA setting is here.)
2. GM1601
3. DNIe
4. FLI2310
5. CXA2171
6. Vsp9437
7. Upd 64083
8. CCA
9. SP Actuator
10. OPTION (The tally of hours of lamp operation is in this menu.)

Ver: T_ATLNUS_1011 (this is the firmware version)

First record user menu entries for "picture" and enter SM.

Steps from the main SM.

1. Select DDP1011 using the directional arrow keys -- up and down.
2. Enter DDP1011. I used the right arrow key but maybe the "enter" key will work too.
3. Select GAMMA using the up or down arrow key.
4. I entered GAMMA using the right arrow key, but the "enter" key may also work.
5. I used the right and left arrow keys to change the value of GAMMA.
6. I used the up arrow key to return to the DDP1011 menu. Again, the "enter" key or "menu" key might do the same thing.
7. I returned to the main SM with the "menu" key.
8. Power off and wait for a full shut down to save entries that you have changed in the SM.

9. Power on after about 30 seconds and enter your user menu picture settings.

This change to GAMMA makes "some" owners happy. I feel that after setting GAMMA to zero and setting brightness with the DVE DVD that the details in dark scenes were improved. To really get the most out of our set I am getting an ISF calibration done by SethS.

As of 12/14/2004:
Mode = Cinema
contrast = 90
brightness = 45
sharpness = 0
color = 48
Digital NR = OFF
DNIe = OFF

Enjoy.

[tjk]

Originally posted by htwaits
Remember that there is no reset function. If you see something that looks like one don't use it.

I can recommend, without any reservations, recording all original SM settings before making additional changes.

I would further recommend that if you are going to play around in the SM, get the service manual. I got one for the HLP 74 series. It's $22.95 plus shipping from Samsung's parts website, and contains every default SM setting, so you don't have to worry about not being able to reset to default values. It's cheap piece of mind.

[htwaits]

Originally posted by tjk
... and contains every default SM setting, so you don't have to worry about not being able to reset to default values.

According to reports about the HLM, HLN, and HLP models the SM settings may vary from firmware version to firmware version and sometimes from set to set.

I think it's wise to record your SM settings if you plan on changing them in any significant way. I going to do it before and after having an ISF calibration done.

[tjk]

Originally posted by htwaits
According to reports about the HLM, HLN, and HLP models the SM settings may vary from firmware version to firmware version and sometimes from set to set.

I think it's wise to record your SM settings if you plan on changing them in any significant way. I going to do it before and after having an ISF calibration done.

Good point. You could always compare the service manual to your factory settings the first time you enter the menu. At a minimum, it could save you a bunch of writing.

I think the service manual is a decent investment for the ~$30 it costs. Of course, others may think it's a waste of time and money.

[swest]

I mentioned over in the general HLP thread that I had a DOA pixel on my new HLP-5063, and that I had notified Samsung and they immediately scheduled the local service provider to come out and replace the LE.

Well, he came today. I showed him the problem and he immediately set about installing the new light engine he had brought with him. After installation, we turned it back on and the black dot was still there!

Turns out it is a defect in the fresnel screen. He tried wiping it off, and even went as far as separating the screen from the anti-glare cover and wiping, and still no luck. It was actually embedded in the fresnel.

It was kind of interesting to see the screen assembly come apart. The two pieces are taped together at the sides and then there are 4 bezels that hold it tight to the box. He took the top, left and right bezels off and then pulled the tape off (carefully, he was expecting to put it back on after an attempt at cleaning between the screens). Then he pulled the anti-glare out away from the fresnel and reached down with some lens tissue. It was kinda scary, but the process didn't seem to be too big a deal. Anyway, it was unwipable and so he put it back together without worrying about the tape and he's ordering a new screen-set.

I'll let you know how it goes.

[chinman]

bump

[tjtv]

anyone ever seen a problem like this?


I just had the light engine changed 2 days ago because the tv kept turning off randomly on me. Today it just started showing that pattern of gray bars as soon as the tv is turned on. I can't get it to go away, changing inputs doesn't help, rebooting doesn't seem to help.

[OrangeKid]

tjk

I intend to get the service manual for my HLP5063 but I was going to wait a few months hoping that it would be updated to include the settings in my firmware version.

If you look at the spreadsheet I uploaded the default settings vary from firmware version to firmware version and later versions of firmware have some settings that were not present in earlier versions.

As I recall in the HLM/HLN series of of sets there were some examples posted where the default settings for a given firmware varied from set to set. I think it is best to confirm the settings on your own set before tweaking them.

[chinman]

bump

[swest]

Ok, I finally got some quality time with the 5063. I popped in the AVIA disk to check for overscan... 5% ??? I know that I read elsewhere in the forum to expect this kind of number, but sheesh! Isn't that a little excessive? What's the spec. for this TV say it should be? Does anyone know? The HLM/Ns certainly didn't seem to suffer from that kind of overscan.

Now this is with the TV in 'Wide TV' mode. If one places it in Expand, then you get ~3% overscan. There is a description of the meaning of Expand, but I really didn't get it. Can anyone clarify it once more?

Also, it was quite easy to get into the SM and adjust the Vpos and Hpos. They were set to 30 and 60 and, to center the picture on the screen, needed to be set to 38 and 68... That modification won't negatively affect PQ will it? (it hasn't seemed to.)

[Cheezmo]

Go with expand. When you feed it 720p, expand is the 1:1 pixel mapping mode and also seems to be what the default was on earlier models. I have no idea where they came up with their terminology, but I can understand having a 5% mode as some SD programming will have garbage around the edges at lower overscan levels.

[Gojhawks]

but I can understand having a 5% mode as some SD programming will have garbage around the edges at lower overscan levels.

That is exactly what I have dicovered. I have started using "expand" and it seems to be slightly sharper to my eyes. What is annoying is when I am on a network digital channel which is showing a SD program and I can see bits of garbage flickering across the top. Fortunately it is only on one channel and very easy to switch back to wide.

By the way 5063 owners, keep up the suggestions. I have had mine since late June and finally working at dialing it in. May even get up guts to enter the SM this weekend. We shall see.

[swest]

Yes, yes. Expand. In addition to the overcan with regular TV, I was disappointed that I couldn't put my PC display in TV mode because so much of the PC screen was being lost. After reading about the 'expand' mode, I put the PC display in that mode and was back to the 2-3% overscan I was used to before, and my PC display looks really sharp.

Things are looking up.

w.r.t. the SM, I was in there looking around (on the GM1601 menu) and scrolled through the entries there and got down to ADC Calibration (with sub entries Red_Offset1, Green_Offset1, and Blue_Offset1). I couldn't scroll into the sub entries, so I hit enter (at ADC Calibration) and the values of the sub entries changed!! argghhsh... Before I did this the values were: R1:33, G1:25, and B1:30. Now they are R1:33, G1:26, and B1:31. There is no way to change them individually! If you are on ADC Calibration and you hit a right, left, or enter, the values change (within a tight range) but never go back to the original numbers... What have I done? I wasn't trying to change anything and now I have. I don't even know what the GM1601 controls!

p.s. So far I haven't noticed any catastrophic results from what I did. But now I'll always wonder...

[htwaits]

"looking around"
"fooling around"
"messing around"

All of the above "male" hobbies lead to trouble in the SM.

[chinman]

bump

[swest]

Originally posted by htwaits
"looking around"
"fooling around"
"messing around"

All of the above "male" hobbies lead to trouble in the SM.

I am properly reprimanded. I'll be more careful. Please don't take away my keys...

[swest]

Originally posted by chinman
can someone post/email me their service menu settings and help out a brother who messed his up? i have an HLP6163W (1035) and would greatly appreciate it. ever since i messed with it i am now getting 'clay faces'

chinman@yahoo.com

I am in the process ('you be careful in there' - htwaits) of documenting my HLP5063W(1035), October 2004, using orangekid's excel spreadsheet. I'm not going to have much time today to work on it, and it may not be appropriate anyway since its a '50'63.

Which input did you mess up? I'll get those first.

[chinman]

*bump*

[htwaits]

Originally posted by swest
... and it may not be appropriate anyway since its a '50'63.

The most important factor is to use the same firmware version. I'm not sure there would be a great difference between the HLP5063 and the HLP6163 if they both have version 1035 of the firmware.

As more owners report their OTB SM settings for different models and firmware versions it may turn out that, like the HLM and HLN sets, each TV may have differences.

Also the SM is a major "black box" challenge. During the HLM days it was discovered that the order in which changes were being made to the SM was very important.

When I recorded mine I tried to be careful to use the "menu" button to back up and to never use the right or left arrow once a setting was on the screen.

A good ISF certified calibration should solve all these problems.

Good luck.

[1Mark1]

Well my 5063 was made in May I think (5 after X), firmware 1014, and the default gamma was set to 8. Changed it to 0 and I like it, no more white crush at 90 contrast and the slight green tint seems to be gone. Just turned over 3000 hours! SM can be tricky, was checking out the test color and gray scale bars and had a hard time getting out of there. Had to hit menu button to get out of that section. Be very careful in SM for sure. I broke out in a sweat there for a minute.