HLPXX63W Owners Thread/Problems/Tweaks/Service Menu/Discretes etc.

[angstrom]

Originally Posted by cert_eng

the only thing you could do is get another hdmi source like a dvd player and see if it works. if it still says "no signal" or "check signlal cable" then you have a bad digital board, but if it works it could be bad hdmi cable or your source (X-box) might have a bad hdmi out put.

if you dont have another hdmi source then go to best buy and buy a dvd player and return it the next day.

that sucks that both your analog board and you digital board might be bad.

I have several HDMI sources and none of them work. Even tried different cables. I'm guessing it's both boards. The funny part is that the COAX still works so I had Verizon send me a digital-to-analog converter so I could at least use the set (albeit with ultra-crappy SD signals). Just a few months back I was snickering to myself about people having to get a converter for the big switchover next year. "Who still uses analog?" I guess the joke's on me!

[jcaron01]

Hello All

I have a Samsung HLP5063WX/XAA that I've had since 2005. This year after reading other posts from this site and others I replaced the color wheel (which was shattered) and the balast because the light would not start. I felt confident I could do this repair myself and the repair went great. I can post detailed instructions and pictures for anyone who may want to see it. The instructions I was following for what was supposed to be the same model were completely different, so I kept a picture diary of the whole process.

That was about 2 months ago. Yesterday out of the blue I got these flashing bars, black, that resemble tire tracks in the mud and they flicker. I am attaching a short clip since pictures speak a thousand words. Just by reading other posts, it seems that the problem may be the DMD. I haven't seen any posts that are exactly like this problem which is why I am sharing and hoping someone has seen this before.

Short clip in the .zip file

Thanks
JC

[dengland]

Yes, that would have been impossible to describe with only words.

Not sure that it makes a difference, but you did not say if this happens with all of your inputs (component, HDMI, NTSC, composite, etc.)

I think you are looking at something major I am afraid.

Have you at least reseated the connectors on the digital board? I know that has fixed some of my pinball machine problems in the past.

[jcaron01]

Yes, it occurs on all inputs. Since my post I removed the light engine, removed what I think is the DMD board to inspect for anything obvious. I put it all back together and still the same problem. (so, yes all the connectors have been re-seated)

DMD looks like a 900 dollar part. Too much, when you can get a tv now for 1000. I paid 2400 for this hlp5063w. Maybe i'll part it out. The ballast only has about 500 hours on it, and the color wheel as well. I also have a new bulb on the shelf that hasn't been used. Its about $400 in new parts. I was hoping that it would run a long time with the new parts.

JC

[td_huse]

I have a HLP4663. My color wheel was making a buzzing noice, so I got a new one and replaced it. The new one is the air bearing type. I don't think the old one was, but I'm not sure. I didn't notice a jumper, though, so I didn't pull one out. However, with the new CW in, my picture isn't quite right. It's just a tad fuzzy and is especially bad with darker colors. Do I need to get into the service menu and change the CCA settings to the ones that came with the new CW? Thanks!

[bishoptl]

I'm new to these forums, and I hope someone can assist me with weird things going on with my Samsung HL-P5063W, maybe somebody here can offer some advice.

I'm hooked up with HDMI on my PS3, but the XMB text has always been grainy, no matter the settings I choose. Well, after turning on my tv earlier today, I noticed that the XMB text was absolutely smooth - just like my work hookup. Then it degraded right in front of my eyes to the "normal" grainy look. After that, I checked it out without using the PS3. I'm not sure if it's some kind of processing that's starting up late, or a problem with my bulb, but I've turned off the DNIe and Digital NR, set my size to Expand, the works. I don't even have to have the console on - the TV's menu text is grainy as well, and the degradation always occurs 30 seconds to a minute after the TV is turned on after being off for a while.

Has anyone seen or have a possible explanation for this? Is there a firmware update I should know about? It's maddening to get marched to the top of the mountain, told "this is what you can't have" then marched right back down again.



Thanks.

[dengland]

Originally Posted by td_huse

I have a HLP4663. My color wheel was making a buzzing noice, so I got a new one and replaced it. The new one is the air bearing type. I don't think the old one was, but I'm not sure. I didn't notice a jumper, though, so I didn't pull one out. However, with the new CW in, my picture isn't quite right. It's just a tad fuzzy and is especially bad with darker colors. Do I need to get into the service menu and change the CCA settings to the ones that came with the new CW? Thanks!

Not sure if you have taken care of this yet or not....

I did not have to change CCA settings when I replaced the color wheel. There is an adjustment in the menu called "INDEX DELAY" During that adjustment there is going to be a red bar along the bottom of the screen. The idea of the adjustment is to make that bar the truest "RED" as possible.

If you have to adjust to the extreme left or right (especially if you cannot get it red), it means you need to remove or add the jumper. Look here for the picture of where to look for the jumper.

[RickDeez]

This seems to be an old thread but Ill try anyways...

Ive been reading through this thread and through other channels trying to figure this one out. I recently replaced my lamp after 16k hours. After replacing the lamp, I now get a loud buzzing/gurgling sound on start up of my TV. The gurgling goes away and Im able to somewhat ignore the buzzing, but its worrisome. On shut down, it doesnt continue buzzing so Im a little hesitant to replace the color wheel if I dont have to. Could anyone give me some direction on what this could be?

[dengland]

That is really weird! Do you still have the old lamp? If so, do you get the same noises with that lamp installed. It sounds like it could be the ballast. Remember decades ago when florescent lights used to make a buzzing sound when they were not working right? When you replaced the lamp did you replace the lamp, or the entire lamp assembly?

Any strange smells from the TV?

[RickDeez]

The other lamp is blown so I couldnt tell you if it would work without the buzzing. I replaced the entire assembly with a new phillips assembly from Discount Merchant. My original bulb was the big bulb and the new bulb is the smaller version but it wouldnt seem that that would cause problems.

There is not a smell or anything coming from the TV. I am wondering if it is the fan maybe or if it is the switch that needs to be engaged when you put the cover back on. If I push on the cover, the 'buzzing' speeds up and gets higher in pitch. The picture is so much brighter and colorful now but the buzzing is killing me. I dont want to turn the TV off anymore for fear that the loud gurgling noise will not go away if I do..

[dengland]

I think it is good that there is no smell. Replacing the entire assembly means the that connections to the bulb are probably tight from the factory. The only switch that I remember is the one that prevents the TV from powering on if the lamp access cover is not in place. I don't think that will make it rattle.

There is a fan in there that blows on the lamp. You could be hearing that. One way to determine color wheel from the fan is how long the noise lasts after power down. If if it lasts more than a few seconds, it probably is the fan instead of the color wheel.

The next cheap thing to do is pull the whole back assembly off to see if you can localize the sound. There are about 10 screws and it is not complicated. (If you power on the set with the back cover off, you will need to hold the switch that the lamp access door keeps engaged.)

When you have the cover off, make sure everything is tight (e.g. lamp assembly)

[Geckotek]

So, my light engine is apparently trashed; do I just drag this thing out to the dump or should I try to get something for parts? I hear the only thing that has much value is the screen.

What do you guys think?

[dengland]

You may want to check ebay to see if there is value to the parts.

RickDeez may want to buy your lamp assembly for troubleshooting!

[RickHolc]

I dont understand all of the CCA values and where to enter them in the SM when you change the color wheel. I have found the x and y values and changed them but what do you do with the Lv values? My tv model is the HLP5063WX and I have been inside the TV and the service menu a couple of times before but I cannot figure this one out for myself. After entering the x and y values the picture seems to be nice but the artifacts in the blacks and dark sections of picture are bad. I have never had any complaints about my picture prior to the color wheel change so I really believe this is a color wheel tuning issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
RickHolc


Details of CCA sheet:

CCA Values

red green blue white
x 651 299 145 287
y 338 617 060 309
Lv 123.7 483.0 60.8 674.1

INDEX
DELAY

ACTU
-ATOR



HLP5063WX Manufactured November 2004. Purchased Jan 2005.
Currently on second bulb. First bulb lasted 12000+ hours.
The key to a long life with your bulb is power control.
1) Never operate the TV during a storm or when there is a chance of a power outage.
2) Never operate your TV from a plug strip.
3) Never remove the plug from the wall before the cooling fan shuts down.
4) Remove dust from around the back of the TV so it does not get pulled into the inside of the machine.
5) If you are going to turn the TV on leave it on for a while. I never turn it on and then back off.

[RickDeez]

yeah it turned out to be my color wheel that was screaming. I replaced the color wheel and have adjusted the CCA values exactly as RickHolc and have the exact same questions.

Unfortunately, my color wheel did not come with the values filled in on the index delay and actuator boxes so I have no idea what they should be...and I am baffled as to what the Lv values are and where they need to change...I have what looks like a pixelated area in the top right of my screen that is noticeable when that area is white...barely but since I have noticed it, I see it all the time now...I believe this probably has to do with the index delay...other than that the picture looks absolutely beautiful and is as quiet as ever...

I appreciate everyones insight

[RickHolc]

I was able to clean up my artifacts by finding a dark frame in the movie Constantine and pausing my DVR. I then went into the Index Delay setting and adjusted it until the artifacts disappeared. I had an original value of 31 and have now changed it to 41. The artifacts are gone. While I was at it I also changed my gamma to 0 (based on research done by others). I am still tweeking it but things are looking much better. I dont see any white pixelated areas on my screen so I am not sure what problem you are encountering. I do have a question for you RickDeez, when you replaced the color wheel did you find that the new one seemed to have a lot of play and that you needed to slide so the gaskit seeled inplace before tightening the screws? I would think something like this would have an exact location to be mounted and not have slack. What was your feeling on this?

[RickDeez]

when I replaced the color wheel, it was pretty much a perfect fit...I didnt have any play at all...sorry

the "pixelated" area in the top right of my screen is only noticable when tat part of the screen goes white...and you can see a line of pink pixels in the top like ou would on the entire screen when you set the index dela really high or really low...its funny though because I only see it in the top right and nowhere else...Ill probably find a test screen and adjust the index delay until it disappears

[busahaya]

wow, what a great thread, all I can say is thanks to everyone for contributing based on your experiences with this set. After tweaking and fine tuning my parents set, all I can say is WOWZERS...not bad for a set that's several years old, now, excuse me while I burn my eyeballs with HD material

[SaleeD]

Did you find the answer to the Lv values? I am having the same issue with my HLP6163W. Have called Samsung who gave me a fax # for a consumer dept.
Thanx, SaleeD

[SaleeD]

Were you able to find the answer to this? I have the same issue with my HLP6163W and have tried Samsung to no avail. SaleeD

Originally Posted by RickHolc

I dont understand all of the CCA values and where to enter them in the SM when you change the color wheel. I have found the x and y values and changed them but what do you do with the Lv values? My tv model is the HLP5063WX and I have been inside the TV and the service menu a couple of times before but I cannot figure this one out for myself. After entering the x and y values the picture seems to be nice but the artifacts in the blacks and dark sections of picture are bad. I have never had any complaints about my picture prior to the color wheel change so I really believe this is a color wheel tuning issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
RickHolc


Details of CCA sheet:

CCA Values

red green blue white
x 651 299 145 287
y 338 617 060 309
Lv 123.7 483.0 60.8 674.1

INDEX
DELAY

ACTU
-ATOR



HLP5063WX Manufactured November 2004. Purchased Jan 2005.
Currently on second bulb. First bulb lasted 12000+ hours.
The key to a long life with your bulb is power control.
1) Never operate the TV during a storm or when there is a chance of a power outage.
2) Never operate your TV from a plug strip.
3) Never remove the plug from the wall before the cooling fan shuts down.
4) Remove dust from around the back of the TV so it does not get pulled into the inside of the machine.
5) If you are going to turn the TV on leave it on for a while. I never turn it on and then back off.

[ripit]

I tried posting a new thread on this but it doesn't seem to be attracting much interest, so I figured I might have better luck here.

My Samsung DLP is about 4 years old. I replaced the bulb about a year ago. Other than that it has been working fine ever since I have owned it until recently. A few weeks ago there was a horizontal black bar that suddenly appeared across the width of the screen about 1/3 of the way down. It disappeared after a little while and I thought it from the cable box. It then showed up again yesterday but now it won't go away and it is not the source. It is there regardless of input. I tried unplugging it for 30 min. and turning it back on and leaving it off overnight, but it is still there. I am at a loss.

Has anyone else experienced this or know what may be the cause? I tried searching here and elsewhere and I found a few references to the problem but no answers. I imaging I will have to call a repairman, but I was hoping that maybe someone here had the same issue and knows of an easy fix.

Thanks in advance!

[phatgroovn]

Hello, problem with my HL-P5063W here, perhaps you all can help. I just bought a PS3 and a new HDMI cable, plugged it in, nothing. I can't get a signal via HDMI at all. Is there a custom tweak or update I need to do? The PS3 is trying to send signal via HDMI, the cable is plugged in and the input is selected on the set.

[birky75]

I can't seem to get anything to work on my HLP 4663w component 1 input..

My Wii works on component 2 and my dvd (an older JVC) only works on component 2. Both on component 1 only show "no signal".

I have a Bell PVR sat in input as S-Video.


Is this a problem that has an easy fix?

[edalzell]

Originally Posted by birky75

I
Is this a problem that has an easy fix?

I don't suppose you have extended warranty?

[dengland]

I would expect that it is not an easy or cheap fix. Not sure if it would be the anlog or the digital board. either way, more money to fix than it is worth.

[birky75]

i do have an extended warranty, so maybe I'll make the call.. i just wasn't sure if the output of the older DVD was not compatible before I did that. Is there are possibility that the output from the dvd is not compatible?

[dengland]

You said that the DVD and the Wii work fine on component 2 but not component 1. There is no difference on the TV side. If it works on one input it will work on the other unless the TV has a problem.

[psyclone44]

Originally Posted by phatgroovn

Hello, problem with my HL-P5063W here, perhaps you all can help. I just bought a PS3 and a new HDMI cable, plugged it in, nothing. I can't get a signal via HDMI at all. Is there a custom tweak or update I need to do? The PS3 is trying to send signal via HDMI, the cable is plugged in and the input is selected on the set.

I have my PS3 working via HDMI so I doubt it is a custom tweak or update, because I didn't do anything. I had a upconverting dvd player hooked up via HDMI before.....uplugged it and plugged in the PS3.

[acillatem]

Hi people.......I have an HLP-5063 that I bought in '04, fimware version 1035, for whatever that's worth. The light engine was replaced once under the extended warranty, and other than that, haven't really had any problems. On the other hand, I've also never done much to get a better picture. Out of the box it's fine,but I know it could most likely be much better. I know the color isn't as good as it could be.Any advice on some basics??? I was considering getting the Avia or DVE disks and giving that a try, for starters. Which one is better, and are they pretty user friendly? Any other advice appreciated. I wish I could afford top calibrate it, but in the current economy,that is way too much of a luxury,so any simple service menu tricks would also be appreciated. Thanks!

[BigEHokie]

Originally Posted by BigEHokie

Well, I checked the service menu and saw I had 5500 hours on my lamp, so I figured it might need to be replaced. Although I wasn't seeing the 3 flashing lights on the front like some have suggested, this seemed like a plausible explanation.

I installed the lamp and have had the TV running for a total of 12 hours or so. All seems well and no random turnoffs.

If anyone else is experiencing random turnoffs, I recommend replacing the lamp.

I take back whatever I suggested here. The random turnoffs are back with a vengeance. Does anyone have any suggestions for what the issue could be? The lamp is fairly new, it shouldn't have but so many hours on it.