Grex Advanced video stabilizer vs Video Filter - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 261 Old 06-29-2010, 09:15 PM
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I had a 'copy once' recording I transferred to DVD-RAM a while back. As I recall, I could not copy it to HDD using the typical programs (e.g. DVD Decrypter, DVDShrink), likely because of the different file structure, .VRO I think. I was able to directly copy the file to my HDD. But when I tried to play it, the audio was disjointed and 'screechy' and the video was a jumble of blocks, like when a non-decrypted .vob is played. I recall searching for software to fix it, but couldn't find any. The program played fine off the disc though.
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post #182 of 261 Old 06-29-2010, 09:51 PM
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Sounds like playing the original (the DVD-RAM) thru a filter to another recorder might be the only way to "rescue" the recording and make it available to copying.
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post #183 of 261 Old 06-30-2010, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gastrof View Post

Sounds like playing the original (the DVD-RAM) thru a filter to another recorder might be the only way to "rescue" the recording and make it available to copying.

I'm not too worried about it, as that program came on again months later when I had a Video Filter, so no more CP.

But, yes, that might be the only way to do it. Perhaps if someone could modify standard DVD decrypting programs to accept a .VRO fileset, that may accomplish the same thing, but it doesn't look like that would happen so late in the RAM game.

I just found this while doing a quick search, but I can't seem to download the files... but that may be an option.
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post #184 of 261 Old 06-30-2010, 09:05 AM
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jjeff, You are correct in that I meant to say COPY NEVER instead opf COPY ALWAYS, a few posts ago.
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post #185 of 261 Old 07-07-2010, 08:18 PM
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Its been a while since I posted. My VF is working fine. I had an issue early on in that I couldn't copy a DVD to DVD. I was using a Toshiba Player and a Sony MC-5 burner. Max is awesome. We couldn't figure out what the problem was so he exchanged the unit with one that has updated firmware. Unfortunately, I think the problem is with the Sony. It some how is still picking up the copyright off of the dvd signals. It's wierd because VF works fine for VHS to DVD (still using the sony).

Recently, I discovered that occasisionally, I will get a copyright error on the sony when copying VHS. I found that by "resetting" the VF, the error is corrected. Simply unplug and replug the power. I've yet to try that for the DVD-DVD. But when I do, and if it works, I will let you all know.

As for PQ - I agree with the general thought that what ever it is on the VHS, that's what you'll get. The Sony has the option of setting the record quality (HQ, HSP, SP, etc.), but that really only allows for preset record times (60, 90, 120, etc.). Not sure how that plays into the PQ on the copy.
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post #186 of 261 Old 07-08-2010, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datwyl01 View Post

...The Sony has the option of setting the record quality (HQ, HSP, SP, etc.), but that really only allows for preset record times (60, 90, 120, etc.). Not sure how that plays into the PQ on the copy.

Simple.

It's VERY similar to how things worked with VHS recorders.

The more time you want on the DVD, the lower your picture quality is because you're squeezing more digital information on the disc. Sacrifices have to be made to do that, so your picture quality isn't as good.

Using the HQ setting gives you the best results on your DVD. Using anything lower than that gives you, step by step, lower and lower picture quality.

A VHS example-

Normally storebought movies and TV shows on video tapes would be recorded at the "two hour" setting. (Called such because most VHS tapes would record two hours of material at that setting.)

The "six hour" setting wasn't anything like that, quality-wise. You were literally trying to squeeze three times the material onto each inch of video tape. You just couldn't do that, so what did get onto the tape couldn't produce the same type of picture on playback as the "two hour" setting would have allowed.

I once saw a really weird release of the Western mini-series "Lonesome Dove"...the entire thing on a single VHS tape, at the "six hour" speed.

The results were NOT what you'd expect from a storebought video.

The original was fine, naturally, but the lower recording setting worsened the picture.

You'll get the same results with a DVD recorder's various settings.
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post #187 of 261 Old 07-08-2010, 09:29 PM
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Make sense. So, I shouldn't try to squeez a multi-tape program onto one disc - for quality sake. For example, I have the VHS version of Titanic - 2 tapes. I should transfer it to 2 separate discs.
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post #188 of 261 Old 07-14-2010, 12:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datwyl01 View Post

Make sense. So, I shouldn't try to squeez a multi-tape program onto one disc - for quality sake. For example, I have the VHS version of Titanic - 2 tapes. I should transfer it to 2 separate discs.

How long is the movie? (I have no idea on the run time for that film.)

I make fine recordings even at the three hour DVD setting, but of course that's off broadcast. Doing it off a tape....ummmmm....

Here's an idea.

Use a RW disc and record the whole movie, using whatever setting is required to fit the whole thing on one DVD.

If you like the results, do it again with a non-rewriteable DVD, and make that your permanent copy.
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post #189 of 261 Old 07-14-2010, 04:37 AM
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Titanic's run time is 3:14. I would put it on 2 disks, especially since you already have it broken up into 2 tapes.
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post #190 of 261 Old 07-14-2010, 04:44 AM
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^^^agreed. While generally I believe one can get up to 3hrs of decent quality full D1 with a Panasonic, that's with a clean source like digital TV or a DVD copy. With a noisier source like VHS I wouldn't push 3hrs and preferable stick closer to 2hrs(SP). With a 3:14 movie I'd probably use FR set for the length of each original tape(which might be around 1:37 min each). Using this speed you should get the needed bitrate for a good VHS conversion.
I'm all for trying to push the speed limit to fit the max on a disc but not at the noticeable expense of the picture quality.
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post #191 of 261 Old 07-14-2010, 09:27 AM
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I know that Grex has special operation mode that force wide screen.
I suggest you to contact Dimax (www.xdimax.com) for details. I did it once but do not remember how exactly.
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post #192 of 261 Old 07-14-2010, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joed32 View Post

Titanic's run time is 3:14. I would put it on 2 disks, especially since you already have it broken up into 2 tapes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jjeff View Post

^^^agreed. While generally I believe one can get up to 3hrs of decent quality full D1 with a Panasonic, that's with a clean source like digital TV or a DVD copy. With a noisier source like VHS I wouldn't push 3hrs and preferable stick closer to 2hrs(SP). With a 3:14 movie I'd probably use FR set for the length of each original tape(which might be around 1:37 min each). Using this speed you should get the needed bitrate for a good VHS conversion.
I'm all for trying to push the speed limit to fit the max on a disc but not at the noticeable expense of the picture quality.

If you left the closing credits off, it just might be under 3 hours.

Just saying...

Luke

Evil is charming and beautiful. It makes you doubt yourself. It asks for one small compromise after another until it whittles you down, and it functions best when no one believes in it.-JOA
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post #193 of 261 Old 07-14-2010, 12:31 PM
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Thanks everyone for the great info. It looks like I may have to copy each tape separately. My target drive is a Sony VRD-MC5, which does not have the FR capability. I can only use preset record times of 60 (HQ), 90 (HSP), 120 (SP), 180 (LP), and 360 (SLP). If Titanic is roughly 97 minutes each tape (194 total), I would have to use the SP setting for each tape. Unfortunately that would leave a lot of unused space on the disc (roughly 23 minutes). Forcing the entire program onto 1 disc wihtout any editing would force me to use the SLP setting, which is out of the question. If I edit out most of the credits and probably all of the opening sequence just before teh opening scene, I may be able to squeeze it into the LP. I probabaly will have to play with the tapes to see what I can get away with before copying. OR, hold off until I can by a Panny.
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post #194 of 261 Old 07-14-2010, 12:42 PM
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I forgot to mention, with the Pannys you can record to DL media. No problem using SP which will give you over 3 1/2 hrs, more than enough room for both tapes.
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post #195 of 261 Old 07-14-2010, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datwyl01 View Post

Thanks everyone for the great info. It looks like I may have to copy each tape separately. My target drive is a Sony VRD-MC5, which does not have the FR capability. I can only use preset record times of 60 (HQ), 90 (HSP), 120 (SP), 180 (LP), and 360 (SLP). If Titanic is roughly 97 minutes each tape (194 total), I would have to use the SP setting for each tape. Unfortunately that would leave a lot of unused space on the disc (roughly 23 minutes). Forcing the entire program onto 1 disc wihtout any editing would force me to use the SLP setting, which is out of the question. If I edit out most of the credits and probably all of the opening sequence just before teh opening scene, I may be able to squeeze it into the LP. I probabaly will have to play with the tapes to see what I can get away with before copying. OR, hold off until I can by a Panny.

Perhaps the best method, cost/benefit wise, is to just by the DVD. I see that all editions are now OOP, but there are a few used standard editions on Amazon that are ~ $10 shipped. You'd get the movie all on one disc at the best possible audio and video quality. You might even be able to find one at a local used DVD store for less than that.
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post #196 of 261 Old 07-14-2010, 01:38 PM
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I'd opt for buying the DVD also. I've seen a number of new and sealed Titanic DVDs on eBay for $10, and free shipping.

I'm in the process of dubbing a large number of SuperBeta Hi-Fi tapes to DVD, and for some, especially those with long playing times, I just went to either Amazon or eBay and bought the DVD. It's a lot easier, and the quality is better.
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post #197 of 261 Old 07-15-2010, 10:01 AM
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I have never owned or used a GREX, but I have and use the Video Filter occasionally.

[expositional story]
I have purchased an EH59 International Panasonic DVD recorder. This will also play back PAL disks. Recently I bought some region 2 PAL disks, and use my EH59 to play them back (in PAL). My Vizio displays PAL with no problem, so this works fine. The wife wanted to watch them in her room while working on her stuff. I needed to make NTSC copes of these. Even going through the PAL to NTSC converter, there was CP in the video stream that prevented me from making the copies.
[/expositional story]

I found out yesterday that the Viedo Filter will remove the CP from the NTSC stream that was converted from the PAL stream from the region 2 disk. I feared it might be different enough to not work, but that was unfounded. The Video Filter worked great. I only wish my PAL to NTSC conversion was as good. The difference between the original disks, and the converted ones is quite noticeable.

Luke

Evil is charming and beautiful. It makes you doubt yourself. It asks for one small compromise after another until it whittles you down, and it functions best when no one believes in it.-JOA
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post #198 of 261 Old 07-15-2010, 02:02 PM
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My Sima CT-2 has a PAL/NTSC switch but it does no conversion. I believe it just enables the Sima to either work with PAL or NTSC and output the same.
I've read that DVD players that convert from PAL to NTSC do a better job than external converters. They are also quite cheap, along with my EH-59 I purchased a used JVC DVD player(for $29!) and as a bonus it advertises it will convert from PAL to NTSC. I also have a Pioneer 410 that can apparently be hacked(using Hkan's post) to play PAL and convert to NTSC, but since I have no PAL DVDs I haven't done it.
I'm just saying you might want to check into open box converting DVD players, for $30 I think it would be worth a try. The Pio is a upconverter but not the JVC.
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post #199 of 261 Old 07-15-2010, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjeff View Post

I purchased a used JVC DVD player(for $29!) and as a bonus it advertises it will convert from PAL to NTSC. I also have a Pioneer 410 that can apparently be hacked(using Hkan's post) to play PAL and convert to NTSC, but since I have no PAL DVDs I haven't done it.

FYI:
As far as I know ALL North American Pioneer and JVC players will do a real time region free or region 1 PAL to NTSC conversion without any modifications or hacks. However not all North American JVC and PIO players will play "out of region" discs – for that you may need a hack.

Curios jjeff.
May I ask which JVC player you purchased?
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post #200 of 261 Old 07-15-2010, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Super Eye View Post

FYI:
As far as I know ALL North American Pioneer and JVC players will do a real time region free or region 1 PAL to NTSC conversion without any modifications or hacks. However not all North American JVC and PIO players will play "out of region" discs – for that you may need a hack.

Curios jjeff.
May I ask which JVC player you purchased?

I didn't know that, like I said I knew it was a feature but probably one I may never use. Don't get to Europe much these days
The JVC I ordered was a XV-N370B, which I know very little other than the price was good and I wanted a player who's remote wouldn't conflict with my Sonys and Pio. Hopefully I'll be able to display remaining time on the unit while it's silent OSD, apparently some/all?? JVCs had this feature but even if it doesn't it will be OK.
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post #201 of 261 Old 07-16-2010, 04:14 PM
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Bought at rummage without power supply. Does anyone know what polarity and voltage I need?
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post #202 of 261 Old 07-16-2010, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
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Bought at rummage without power supply. Does anyone know what polarity and voltage I need?

The answer is yes, someone surely does have that information but I am not that person. Try Googling "Recoton V616 specifications" for that information.

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post #203 of 261 Old 07-17-2010, 12:05 AM
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The answer is yes, someone surely does have that information but I am not that person. Try Googling "Recoton V616 specifications" for that information.

Been there, tried that. I was just hoping someone here had used one. There is a serious dearth of information on this unit. I finally searched ebay and a seller listed the model number of the transformer. Searching that yielded the answer: + tip, 9v, 200mA.
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post #204 of 261 Old 07-19-2010, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjeff View Post

The JVC I ordered was a XV-N370B, which I know very little other than the price was good and I wanted a player who's remote wouldn't conflict with my Sonys and Pio. Hopefully I'll be able to display remaining time on the unit while it's silent OSD, apparently some/all?? JVCs had this feature but even if it doesn't it will be OK.

I guess I got what I paid for
IMO the JVC was a P.O.C. Other than a nice slim profile it has very little going for it. It has NO remaining time, OSD or not, only elapsed. The PQ (only tested through S-video) was sub par and the tray is so skinny and flimsy it's hard to get DVDs out. It also has a few other odd quirks, all in all leading me to return it. I'm probably going to end up paying $10-15 shipping for this $29 player but I wouldn't even want it for $14 so I guess any money I get back is saved money.
I believe JVCs used to be built well, but apparently not anymore. I guess I should have known since I did try a $99 JVC BR player from Sams(was also of the very skinny design) and it was equally poor.
I didn't even try the PAL-NTSC conversion of it since the regular DVD playback was so poor I doubt the conversion was any good either
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post #205 of 261 Old 08-16-2010, 07:15 PM
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where can find info (specs, cost) on the Video Filter?
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post #206 of 261 Old 08-16-2010, 07:22 PM
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Check post #2, that link seems to be still active.
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post #207 of 261 Old 09-02-2010, 04:35 PM
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To anyone interested,

I received my Video Filter today, it works great! The best I have had. I owned a Sima in the past, have seen the GoDVD unit working at a friends house, and when I needed a new unit due to image degradation, I thought that I would try the 'Video Filter'. With this new unit, there is not the slightest video loss, not even the slightest loss, this is maybe one of the best purchases I have made.

Regards,

mike28086
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post #208 of 261 Old 09-02-2010, 04:53 PM
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I guess the old saying is still true then, You get what you pay for
If my Sima CT-2(s) ever go I'd probably try the VF. My only complaint about the CT-2 is it slightly lightens the black level. If I had to guess I'd say something like a +4 IRE, which is most noticeable with white credits on a black background.
I might also try something like this if it ever comes in stock. I would think it should strip the CP but isn't advertised as such. MP is guessing 9/17 ETA.
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post #209 of 261 Old 09-02-2010, 05:12 PM
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jjeff,please be aware that the COMP.video> c/s-video converter may be the Lenkeng converter,the price is what makes me suspicious that it is. It may or may not work for you.I hope for your sake that it does,cuz otherwise you won't be a happy camper! I have a Lenkeng,but it doesn't do what it should. Also make double sure that you can get your money back if you have problems.

I'm currently waiting for the new model being released by www.shinybowusa.com Model # SB3681n.It's supposed to come out on 9/21/10.No price listed yet but there is a 3yr. parts and labor warranty on it,so i'm guessing it'll probably be a good unit. From what iv'e read Shinybow manufactures high quality products. G.
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post #210 of 261 Old 09-02-2010, 06:08 PM
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The only way I'd buy the one from MP is if it carried the same return policy as the rest of what they sell, which according to their website is:

For Refund: All returns must be authorized by Monoprice within 30 days of the delivery date. There is NO RESTOCKING FEE applied to any return item(s), however, S&H cost is not refundable. For Replacement: After 30 days, Monoprice only replace the item(s) for the same item(s) during its warranty period if it is defective. Sorry, we will not exchange an item with a different item. The Product ID (PID) must be the same.

The worst I'd see it I might be out the shipping. Personally I don't need the component to S-video converter but I'd use the CP removing part. Even if it introduced noise or messed with the black level I'd return it, I'm kind of fussy that way.
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