Whither the capacitors in Panasonic recorders? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 74 Old 08-11-2008, 12:30 PM - Thread Starter
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There have been a number of posts in this and other forums that mention failed or failing power supply capacitors in Panasonic DVD recorders, combo recorders and hard drive recorders. Some of these posts are mine.

It is my practice to check capacitors for bloating or leakage whenever I clean DVD Drive lens and rubber hubs.

With 2006 model year Panasonics I have found a few that evidenced some leakage of the largest electrolytic capacitor in the power supply section.

With DMR-ES35V models the power supply is part of the right chassis motherboard; with DMR-ES15 models the power supply is part of the main chassis motherboard. Replacement requires extensive disassembly.

The capacitor replacement procedure takes around one hour, as described in the next post.

The largest electrolytic capacitor in the power supply sections in DMR-ES15 and DMR-ES35V models are not of the same specification. In a DMR-ES15 model C1143 is 100uf 350v. In a DMR-ES35V model C11108 is 220uf 250v. Both have a heat range of 105 C degrees, and are 30mm tall. I ordered replacement capacitors for both models through a local electronic parts store. These capacitors have the same specification as those used by Panasonic but they are from a different manufacturer.

In February 2008 I replaced leaking power supply capacitors in some of my DMR-ES15 models.

In later posts in this thread I attach step-by-step photos of a later capacitor replacement project in a DMR-ES15.

I also own four DMR-ES35V models. I also ordered replacement capcitors to have on hand should these models need capacitor replacements.

I also own two DMR-ES30V models. These 2005 models differ from the 2006 models in several ways. In the power supply section there are two large (matching) electrolytic capacitors. That power supply section is mounted on a platform at the rear of the case. Neither DMR-ES30V evidenced capacitor leakage at its most recent DVD drive lens and rubber hub cleaning.

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post #2 of 74 Old 08-15-2008, 12:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Replacing Panasonic capacitors yourself? Some advice:

If your Panasonic is still functional but has experienced some operational or performance problems it may be due to impending failure in power supply capacitors.

Other failures may be due to the need for DVD drive hub/spindle cleaning. See the first post in the below linked thread. That post has links to general hub/spindle cleaning advice, the cleaning procedure itself and other links addressing possible reassembly complications:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1055071

I will offer observations and advice based upon my experience in replacing electrolytic capacitors in several of my Panasonics. I must add that electronics is not my field so the advice that follows might need correction from someone experienced in that field.

The Panasonic power supply is located close to the AC cord connection on the rear panel. Be sure to check the nearby fuse if your Panasonic is dead. If the fuse has blown it is inexpensive and easy to replace. If a power supply capacitor has failed the Panasonic may be dead for that reason as well.

Capacitors store an electronic charge. That is reason enough to disconnect the AC cord well in advance of the procedure to allow the capacitor to lose its charge. Exercise caution when working in and around the power supply, even after the power has been disconnected.

If the Panasonic is operational but experiencing problems it is likely that one or more power supply capacitors are beginning to fail. The power supply will have electrolytic capacitors (a canister) and “chubby disc” type capacitors (a smaller device standing on two legs). Electrolytic capacitors are black or dark brown jacketed canisters with an aluminum top and a grey stripe running down one side. The grey stripe indicates the capacitor's polarity. The leakage may appear as bubbly ooze on the capacitor’s side or around the capacitor's base and on the circuit board. This leakage will probably be somewhat hardened rather than pliable or moist. “Chubby disc” type capacitors may be beige or brown. These demonstrate impending problems with bloating or leakage.

Some capacitors may continue to function during early stages of failure but any leakage or bloating indicates that the Panasonic is operating on borrowed time.

Some Panasonics have the power supply section on a separate circuit board. That simplifies capacitor replacement because extensive disassembly is not necessary. Other Panasonics have one or two large chassis motherboards that incorporate the power supply into the circuit board. These models require much more extensive disassembly. Allow at least one hour for the procedure.

During disassembly lay out all the various parts in an orderly manner so they may be correctly reassembled following the procedure. Several parts assemblies and the chassis motherboard itself will need to be removed in order to gain access to the back side of the circuit board for the soldering process. Some motherboard or other circuit boards may have ribbon cables or conductive bridge connectors between these circuit boards. Gently disconnect these by grasping the plug portion from the ends. Ribbon cables may have reinforced tabs near their ends to allow easier withdrawal and insertion.

In most models it may be necessary to remove the front panel; the hard drive and its cables/connections (if so equipped); the DVD drive and the DVD controller circuit board assembly and its cables/connections; many of the screws securing the rear panel to the tuner, I/O jacks, AC power connector, etc.; possibly the fan; those motherboard screws indicated by the adjacent screw icon; a mini-switch circuit board in some models; and in some models the central anchoring screw found recessed into the motherboard's front input jack assembly. Then the motherboard itself may be lifted off its small blade type guides and removed from the chassis.

The specification of electrolytic capacitors will be found on its side. This will include specifications for uF, V, and the degree range. You may wish to measure the physical height as an additional specification. Some Panasonic low-profile cases may limit capacitor height. A capacitor more than 30mm or so may be too tall to fit some models.

Capacitors are generic so it is not necessary to order these from Panasonic. A local electronics parts store may have them or be able to special order them. Unsolder the old capacitor and take it with you to the electronic parts store so they may identify and order the correct specification replacement (if they do not have the right capacitor in stock).

Make a notation of the position of grey stripe (indicating polarity) so the new capacitor may be oriented the same way. The polarity may also be indicated on the circuit board. When unsoldering the capacitor from the back side of the circuit board take care to pull the capacitor straight off the front side of the circuit board after heating both soldered areas around the pins on the back side. Do not rock the capacitor as that may loosen or damage the "foil" covering carrying the circuitry on the back side of the motherboard. (If the "foil" lifts somewhat that does not necessarily mean that the repair has failed. This is just meant as a caution.) Electrolytic capacitor removal may be somewhat difficult as the electrolyte leakage itself forms somewhat of a bond to the motherboard. Carefully remove the residual leakage from the front side of the motherboard and clean the area with Isopropyl Alcohol. Guide the new capacitor's pins through the holes, heating the solder to allow insertion, if necessary, making sure not to loosen or damage the "foil" on the back of the motherboard. Be sure to reheat the existing solder or use very little new solder until the solder flows smoothly around the pins, taking care not to allow any excess amount to intrude upon another circuit or another component's solder or pins. Trim off the excess pin length after the solder has cooled.

Reassemble the Panasonic. If the Panasonic has a VHS section take care to hold the VHS door open as the front panel is being fitted back to the case. This will assure the correct alignment of the VHS door lifting mechanism.

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post #3 of 74 Old 08-15-2008, 08:43 PM
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Wow!...for someone's whose field isn't electronics, that is quite a bit more than I ever cared to know about the life cycle of the elusive electrolytic capacitor species! You don't happen to have accumulated any photos of capacitors mating, did you?

I replaced a capacitor once, in the power supply for some amplified computer mini-speakers. I upped the stock value by a big amount to kill the power supply hum. It actually worked!...but it did run hot right in the proximity where the cap was snug against the plastic case. I could feel the temp through the plastic.

The speakers lasted for about 2 yrs. I should do a biopsy to determine if it was my custom cap that failed or was it just another part failure of an inherently bobo'd power supply design...

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post #4 of 74 Old 08-18-2008, 09:32 PM
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I'm admittedly a newbie to the Forum, but not to the internet and forums in general. I started a topic on Aug 7th about my DMR-EH50 and wondering if it was having the capacitor problem but I cannot seem to find the thread. When I view the forum there is a hole between Aug 1st and Aug 11th, no posts.

EDIT: I found David Bott's post about the data loss Aug 11th and backup from Aug 2nd. That explains my missing thread.

I followed up with some pictures of the insides on the 8th, but have been on vacation since, so I didn't see any replies. Here are my photos again. The foreign material on the capacitor looks like thermal paste to me rather than anything leaking.

http://cindynjeff.net/misc/DMR-EH50-1.JPG
http://cindynjeff.net/misc/DMR-EH50-2.JPG
http://cindynjeff.net/misc/DMR-EH50-3.JPG
http://cindynjeff.net/misc/DMR-EH50-4.JPG

Does this look like a problem?
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post #5 of 74 Old 08-18-2008, 10:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdcrjeff View Post

I started a topic on Aug 7th about my DMR-EH50 and wondering if it was having the capacitor problem but I cannot seem to find the thread . . . EDIT: I found David Bott's post about the data loss . . .
I followed up with some pictures of the insides on the 8th, but have been on vacation since, so I didn't see any replies. Here are my photos again. The foreign material on the capacitor looks like thermal paste to me rather than anything leaking . . . Does this look like a problem?

I remember your photos and I responded to your post, but that was lost in the "crash."

Admittedly the foreign material appears lighter and more foamy than mine does. That material certainly appears in the same way and the same location(s) that my leaking electrolyte has appeared. As I examine my leaking capacitors it isn't obvious where the leakage originates, i.e. there is no obvious rupture in the case jacket, but the electrolyte adheres to and flows outward from, and even under the capacitor. One or more of my leaking capacitors had electrolyte in a very narrow stream running from the top down to the bottom of the capacitor jacket where it joins or becomes the larger flow rolling out onto the motherboard.

I must assume that your machine's foreign material is leaking electrolyte. If that is the situation then that capacitor, and your Panasonic, are operating on borrowed time.

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post #6 of 74 Old 08-19-2008, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DigaDo View Post

I must assume that your machine's foreign material is leaking electrolyte. If that is the situation then that capacitor, and your Panasonic, are operating on borrowed time.

It's already dead. My DMR-EH50 is stuck in "Please Wait" mode.
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post #7 of 74 Old 08-19-2008, 06:37 PM
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Gatorade is good to replenish electrolytes... Sorry about that- I do sympathize that it does suck when your recorder is gasping its last breathes.

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post #8 of 74 Old 08-20-2008, 05:40 PM
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In the photos, that looks like "hot glue" used to hold the caps in place. Never saw leakage that looked like that.

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post #9 of 74 Old 08-30-2008, 11:01 AM - Thread Starter
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This post is being revised to correct some misinformation clarified in the next post.

Here are two photos showing what I originally thought to be leakage of the largest electrolytic capacitor in one of my still-functional DMR-ES35V combo recorders. This Panasonic was set aside for capacitor replacement in February. The second photo will give one a view of some of the parts necessary to be removed, including the right chassis motherboard itself, in order to replace leaking power supply capacitors. In the foreground notice the conductive bridges between the left and right chassis motherboards.

I expect to take step-by-step photos the next time I have capacitor replacement session(s). Due to extensive disassembly, capacitor replacement occupies somewhat more than one hour per machine.

Six of my 2006 model year Panasonics had been set aside awaiting capacitor replacement. Following clarifications found in the next post three DMR-ES35V models will now be returned to their regular rotation of duties and three DMR-ES15 models will be re-evaluated.
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post #10 of 74 Old 08-31-2008, 02:38 PM - Thread Starter
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On another Forum I received this response to my post, similar to that above, that had two photos showing what I supposed to be a leaking electrolytic capacitor in the power supply section of a DMR-ES35V:

“In the picture of the main power supply capacitor. That is not electrolyte leakage you are seeing, that is a resin applied by the manufacturer to make sure the capacitor stays firmly seated to the P.C.B. You can clearly see the resin on the side of the capacitor. A capacitor cannot leak from the side, it is a solid metal can. If electrolyte does leak from an electrolytic capacitor it will leak underneath at the opening in the can where the legs of capacitor emerge.

Also the voltage on that capacitor can remain at over 300 Volts with the power cord removed for days. So be careful as you can really get a nasty shock or ground the voltage through the power supply circuit when you apply the soldering bolt can take out the power supply.”


This is my response:

Thank you for correcting and clarifying these matters. Electronics is not my field so my posts were based upon some others that described machine failures, observation of failed disc-type capacitors, replacement of those failed or failing capacitors, and the return to functionality of various other Panasonic models.

My observation of the resin bonding agent was misinterpreted by me as electrolyte leakage. My replacement of these power supply capacitors in still-functional machines was deemed by me to be "preventative maintenance."

I opened my other two set-aside DMR-ES35V models to re-examine this capacitor. Both appeared very much the same as did the first machine shown in my earlier photos.

In the below photo the three capacitors on the left were removed from three of my DMR-ES15 models. The capacitor on the right was removed from a non-functional DMR-ES35V parts machine.

After capacitor removal most of the beige material was peeled off the capacitors and the chassis motherboard was cleaned of the residue before installation of new capacitors.

On the DMR-ES35V capacitor the residue was of lighter beige than that on the DMR-ES15 capacitors. Around that ES35 capacitor there was perhaps three times as much residue flowing outward from that capacitor than the residue shown in the earlier photos. Replacing the capacitor in the ES35 parts machine was, for me, experimental. The new capacitor did not remedy that machine's problems.

I expect re-evaluate the three set-aside DMR-ES15 models. My three set-aside DMR-ES35V models will be returned to their regular rotation of duties. You have saved me a great deal of needless labor.

Thank you again!
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post #11 of 74 Old 09-21-2008, 07:54 PM
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So my capacitor (see above post) really didn't look like it was leaking, more like RTV (thermal condcting material) or hot glue as Speedskater said. But I decided to go ahead and replace it anyway and took some pictures along the way. Neither my local Radio Shack nor Fry's had a possible replacement part. I did find several possible replacements at http://digikey.com/ but ended up going for more instant gratification when I found something "close enough" at a hole-in-the-wall store called Torrance (CA) Electronics. My part is C1143 and a 150uF/220V with 10mm lead spacing and 20mm diameter x 20mm height. The part I found was a 150uF/450V part with 10mm spacing and slight larger than 20mm diameter and maybe twice as tall (didn't actually measure).

So assuming top is already off (3 screws in back, 2 on sides), let's proceed with taking the PWB VEP01967 out (4 pictures above show the full board).

Have to unscrew the AC jack first, it's conencted to the PWB.
http://cindynjeff.net/misc/DMR-50/1-AC.JPG

The board we want to remove is attached to another board by a rather fragile looking ~20 pin connector. Had to kind of wiggle it to get it out, but it finally came out. Wasn't really any place to slip a screwdriver or anything under a tab to help.
http://cindynjeff.net/misc/DMR-50/2-jumper-black.JPG

The other connector was a white 4-pin, which was the connection for the fan. Also just had to kind of gently pull on it/wiggle it.
http://cindynjeff.net/misc/DMR-50/3-jumper-white.JPG

Then the 3 screws (upper left, lower left, upper right of VEP01927 board in pic http://cindynjeff.net/misc/DMR-EH50-1.JPG):
http://cindynjeff.net/misc/DMR-50/4-screw.JPG
So after unscrewing, the board lifted out pretty easily. I setup it up on a small vise, though you certainly wouldn't need that.

The capacitor was held on the the PWB somewhat by the glue or whatever it is, so I scrapped it away to make sure the capacitor wouldn't be stuck.
http://cindynjeff.net/misc/DMR-50/5-scrape.JPG

The I went around to the other side to desolder the cap.
http://cindynjeff.net/misc/DMR-50/6-desolder.JPG

It came off pretty easily. And in reality, there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with it.
http://cindynjeff.net/misc/DMR-50/7-oldcap.JPG

After removal the top side looks like this. I cleaned up the glue a little more after this.
http://cindynjeff.net/misc/DMR-50/8-mounting.JPG

Here's the new part.
http://cindynjeff.net/misc/DMR-50/9-replacement.JPG

Just put the terminals through the board (it kinda snaps) and then solder from the backside.
http://cindynjeff.net/misc/DMR-50/10-resolder.JPG

All done. Fired it back up and it seems to work fine now.

I actually ordered a part from Digikey manufactured by Nichicon.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=493-2748-ND
Rated for 3000 hours @ 105degC as opposed to the 1000 hours of the Panasonic part. So if the one I put in fails I already have a replacement.
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post #12 of 74 Old 10-28-2008, 02:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Tdcrjeff has provided very good photos showing the steps for power supply electrolytic capacitor replacement when the power supply is on its own circuit board.

In this and the following post are photos showing capacitor replacement when the power supply is part of the main circuit board on a DMR-ES15 or similar machine. The photo showing soldering in of the new capacitor was blurry so it is not posted. See my post of 8/15/08 for a detailed description of the procedure.
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post #13 of 74 Old 10-28-2008, 02:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are the remaining photos for the capacitor replacement procedure:
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post #14 of 74 Old 10-28-2008, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdcrjeff View Post

So my capacitor (see above post) really didn't look like it was leaking, more like RTV (thermal condcting material) or hot glue as Speedskater said.

You missed the obvious, that stuff at the bottom is glue, yes, but look at the TOP of the capacitor. The pressure vent has split to allow the gases to escape from dried-out overheated electrolytic. In my experience that looks like a REALLY bad cap, probably even shorted.

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post #15 of 74 Old 02-14-2009, 08:49 AM - Thread Starter
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In another thread Vmalhotra posted excellent photos of a capacitor replacement project with a DMR-E85H:

http://vassfamily.net/projects/DMRE85H/dmre85h.html

A few comments:

It appears that the DVD Drive's rubber hub needs cleaning.

The conductive "bridge" connectors between the chassis circuit boards are easy enough to disconnect by grasping the ends and pulling up. It would be better not to give too much exercise to these connectors.

Most electronics parts stores may special order capacitors with the exact specifications and heat range of the original capacitors. Capacitors may also be ordered online from several sources. With the DMR-E85H there is limited vertical clearance. Certainly shorter capacitors with pins on one end would make for an easier project, avoiding the need for "insulation."

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post #16 of 74 Old 04-30-2009, 02:17 AM
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Do You have any idea how to check the power supply before capacitor replacement? The dried-out capacitor may looks like a new.
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post #17 of 74 Old 01-04-2010, 02:43 PM - Thread Starter
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I receive PM inquires concerning problems that are obviously related to failing or failed power supply capacitors. Most often it's necessary to search out this thread in order to provide a link in my response. For that reason I'm bringing back this thread to make it more accessible for those needing to have this information.

Today's PM (from a new member in Hungary) raised a question concerning the power supply board in a DMR-ES30V. The first photo shows the power supply platform with the cover in place. The second photo shows the power supply with the cover removed. Of course, the DMR-ES30V shown in these photos is the US/Canadian version.
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post #18 of 74 Old 04-28-2010, 01:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Today’s project entailed swapping power supply circuit boards between two DMR-ES30V models.

The first photo shows two of our family’s four DMR-ES30V models. My original DMR-ES30V, purchased at WalMart on 9/2/2005, is seen at the left and my daughter’s original DMR-ES30V, purchased a couple of months later, is seen at the right.

This ES30 of mine has had very heavy use, with a DVD Drive replacement (due to a laser assembly failure), under warranty, in August 2006. Since that time this ES30 has continued with very heavy use, was serviced and set aside as a standby recorder in January 2008 and returned to daily use for a month in August/September 2008 and then returned to standby service after it had accumulated around 4,400 recording hours.

Beginning in January 2010 this heavy use ES30 has been used by my daughter who swapped it into the place of her original 2005 DMR-ES30V. Her ES30 was overheating and failing recordings after about two hour’s operation. I serviced the DVD Drive and examined the power supply capacitors and made a series of brief test recordings. I found DVD recording/playing seemed normal after no more than an hour’s use, but I observed that the cooling fan was non-operational. I swapped in a known-good fan but that fan was also non-operational. I also found that the VHS mechanism was no longer operational. At the time I deemed that her ES30 model's Digital PCB was probably problematic.

After perhaps three months use my daughter has reported that my original ES30 now fails to boot-up and that it does not progress beyond the “HELLO” on the front panel display. I confirmed this, also finding this ES30 unresponsive to remote or front panel buttons, including the powered off Channel UP/DOWN reset to factory defaults. Upon powering off, this ES30 would immediately transition back to the “HELLO” status.

I reasoned that power supply capacitors might be the problem with this ES30 and that the fastest way to return it to service would be to swap in the power supply PCB from her problematic ES30 model.

The second through fifth photos show the steps for removing the power supply PCB in a DMR-ES30V. (Of course, installation of the PCB is just the reverse of removal.)

Did the power supply swap return either or both of these ES30 models to functionality? No, my original ES30, with my daughter’s ES30 model’s power supply in place, still won’t boot up or progress beyond “HELLO.” My daughter’s ES30 boots up correctly with my ES30 model’s power supply in place, but there is no reason to believe that the earlier overheating and VHS functionality problems have been resolved.

I’m thinking that my original ES30 model’s failure to boot-up beyond “HELLO” is due to a problematic Digital PCB or DVD Drive controller board. If I’m correct in my earlier assumption that the Digital PCB in my daughter’s ES30 is problematic, swapping that PCB with the one in my original ES30 will not resolve that recorder’s problems.

I’ve now given my daughter my other standby ES30, another heavy use recorder with around 3,000 recording hours.

I’ve also suggested that she try out one of my standby DMR-ES35V models, something she’s resisted every time I’ve made that suggestion.
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"A ROSE BY ANY OTHER NAME WILL SMELL AS SWEET. BUT IT DOES NOT FOLLOW THAT WHATEVER WE CHOOSE TO CALL A ROSE WILL POSSESS THE ROSE'S FRAGRANCE."

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post #19 of 74 Old 10-04-2010, 01:14 PM - Thread Starter
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It appears that there have been some recent policy changes with Panasonic service. More later...

"A ROSE BY ANY OTHER NAME WILL SMELL AS SWEET. BUT IT DOES NOT FOLLOW THAT WHATEVER WE CHOOSE TO CALL A ROSE WILL POSSESS THE ROSE'S FRAGRANCE."

--Benjamin Breckinridge Warfield (1917)
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post #20 of 74 Old 10-27-2010, 02:31 PM
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When purchasing replacement capacitors, beware of Chinese fakes.


That which may be known of God is evident within man, for God has shown it to them, so that they are without excuse. (Romans 1:19-20)
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post #21 of 74 Old 10-27-2010, 02:53 PM
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That's really bad, if it's real and not some type of internet hoax. If someone spent the time installing such a part and it didn't work they might just assume something else was wrong.
The worst part is the originals were supposed to be rated for 50v but the ones inside look to be only 35v. They may work for a while but not nearly as long as they should. Of course this is coming from a country that was selling dog food with toxic chemicals in it. When they asked people from the Chinese company that sold the dog food(undercover) they were told, this food isn't sold in China so it's not our pets eating it
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post #22 of 74 Old 10-27-2010, 04:39 PM
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It's too bad you Panasonic owners can't file a class action lawsuit about these capacitors. I say 'can't' because the lawyers probably figure there aren't enough owners to make it worthwhile for them on a cut of the take. After all, we HDD recorder afficiondos are a minority in the world. Plus, maybe the statute of limitations has run out on many models.

Abit used to be a famous maker of overclocking motherboards, and unfortunately, they were victim of the bad cap problem (Jackson capacitors). They were always great about it: they would take the motherboard back and replace the caps for free, but then some greedy lawyers saw the potential market in a class action lawsuit. I mean imagine how many corporations or government entities may have a particular brand of motherboard in their computers. I never participated in the lawsuit since what's the big deal? Abit was always good about it and fixed 'em for free. No doubt the class action lawsuit forced Abit out of business around 3-4 years ago and they are no more. Really a shame.
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post #23 of 74 Old 10-28-2010, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clevor View Post

It's too bad you Panasonic owners can't file a class action lawsuit about these capacitors.

If such an idea ever even occurred to me, it wouldn't be against Panasonic, but the manufacturer of the bad capacitors. They found their way into a lot of electronic equipment, certainly not merely DVD recorders. Since they were manufactured in China, I think it would be difficult to actual get to the real culprits.

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Evil is charming and beautiful. It makes you doubt yourself. It asks for one small compromise after another until it whittles you down, and it functions best when no one believes in it.-JOA
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post #24 of 74 Old 10-28-2010, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Church AV Guy View Post

If such an idea ever even occurred to me, it wouldn't be against Panasonic, but the manufacturer of the bad capacitors. They found their way into a lot of electronic equipment, certainly not merely DVD recorders. Since they were manufactured in China, I think it would be difficult to actual get to the real culprits.

Well of course the lawyers won't go after small potatoes, but the big names.

Besides, I think if some owners/lawyers did pursue the suit against Panasonic, the company would have long ago quit offering a flat fee for repair of HDD recorders. Not that a big company like Panasonic would go under, but I don't think they'd be in a good mood after that.

But motherboard manufacturers were pretty good about it. Iwill also had bad caps on their boards, and they repaired it for free too. Abit also took all the boards with bad caps off the market (mainly Pentium 3s), and replaced the caps. It's easy to tell the fixed boards at a glance as they used Teapo caps, which had a distinctive looking end cap. It reached a point where DFI, which is still alive and well in the overclocking field, advertised that their high end boards featured Japanese capacitors (Nicheren).
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post #25 of 74 Old 03-12-2011, 03:37 AM
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This thread may be a little old, but it's sure been worthwhile to me. I have a DMR-E85HP that just gave up the ghost when a long power outage occured. No warning, just would not turn back on. With the information in here and a few other threads, I decided to take a look for failed caps. Well, whadda-you-know!! I saw some discharged electrolyte from THREE caps - the usual suspects (C1260 & C1261, 680uf @ 10v) and in the switching oscillator C1150 56uf @ 35v!! That would sure keep the P/S from coming on! So I replaced all three, and since I found a 680uf@16v that was the same size and temp rating, I decided to substitute it to maybe increase the life of these parts which seem to be underengineered.

Digikey part numbers: 493-1859-ND and 493-1787-ND

I also have two DMR-E55Ps, so I bought 5 of the 56uf and 10 of the 680uf to allow for future failures. All three machines were bought in 2005, so I figure it's probably gonna hit them too. Total cost: $6.44 for the 15 caps plus $2.14 shipping. Can you find a DMR-E85HP for $8.58 and a half-hour of time? I did, plus it had 260+ hours of my most-wanted programs on it. Didn't lose a thing.

Thanks so much to DigaDo and tdcrjeff for all their detailed information and pictures. You guys led me right to the problem and I am now a happy camper again.
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post #26 of 74 Old 03-12-2011, 06:12 AM
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Maybe someone can help me? I have a Panasonic DMR E60 that I've had since Christmas '03. I died about 2 years ago. When I plug it in to power, nothing happens. When I unplug it, the fan spins for a brief second. Also, if I plug it in and hold the power button down for a few seconds, the display will light up with the time and date. If I then press eject, the "reading disc" circle will spin a while, but nothing happens. None of the capacitors appears to be leaking. I don't know what to do!
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post #27 of 74 Old 03-15-2011, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoney Jackson View Post

Maybe someone can help me? I have a Panasonic DMR E60 that I've had since Christmas '03. I died about 2 years ago. When I plug it in to power, nothing happens. When I unplug it, the fan spins for a brief second. Also, if I plug it in and hold the power button down for a few seconds, the display will light up with the time and date. If I then press eject, the "reading disc" circle will spin a while, but nothing happens. None of the capacitors appears to be leaking. I don't know what to do!

I'm sorry, but there isn't much we can do for you. Hopefully you had a nice funeral, but ghosts usually can't operate A/V equipment very well.

Sorry, just kidding!!

I don't have a schematic of the E60, but if you can find one, look for the power supply caps for some likely problems.



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post #28 of 74 Old 03-24-2011, 06:27 PM
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I have Panasonic SA-HT1500 (it's DVD/HDD with 160GB and home theater /receiver speaker system). In its base, it is actually similar to DMR-EH85 / EH95 models with TVGOS with added features.

I was able to successfully replace capacitors in last 4 years. First they were on position C1270 and C1271 (typical for this model), second time they were other positions.

This time, the problem appears again on position C1270 and C1271 plus C1432 and one capacitor on the large circuit board under the dvd-ram unit.
I alwasy had problem with "Please wait" signs on the display.

After excessive disassembly (I removed almost everything to get access to bad capacitors, especially to the one on the big board under the DVD drive unit), I was able to successfully replaced 2 capacitors. However, I probably used to much force when pulling bad capacitors on place C1271 and C1432, so the "foil" / copper pads around component holes tore. Maybe the copper pad on position on C1271 was already weak from previous replacement (4 years ago) and foil / pad was loose. I was able to see bare "orange" board in the size little bit smaller than approx. 1/16" x 2/16" on both positions. Both holes were around the "negative" polarity of capacitors.

I tried to glue that tiny pieces torn back to the board, no success. I tried to solder larger area around the hole to keep those loose pieces in place around the hole, while soldering green "foil" around holes, but no success. Then, I tried to create "bridge", using tiny piece of copper (cut from a capacitor) over the holes and solder capacitor "leg" over it.

It seems that I cut the "continuity" in circuit (it was light green before and it looked to me that part of copper trace being completely removed with pad).
I also observed discoloration around some capacitors (around C1270 position, under dvd drive unit, etc.) before this replacement. I also saw some small "bump" in the fuse. Maybe, it's bad. I plan to take it to Radio Shack and buy a new one, too.

Dvd recorder after replacement did not power on. When I plugged it in the outlet, the light on "power on" button went red for "standy" mode, but there was nothing on display. I unplugged the unit, since I had a feeling that I smell something to burn. I opened the unit, it did not look changed or burned, maybe it was just my feeling of being scared since I anticipated troubles before plugging it in. I thought that there might be a short circuit, and I rather unplugged the unit out of outlet than ruin the unit completely.

I was ready to call for that $130 flat-rate repair to Panasonic, but it looked that the price doubled and it is questionable if it would be actually repaired in Texas after all.

I hate to realize that I just ruined my favorite dvd recorder, not mentioning that we have valuable recording on HDD that I was not able to save them. I started it, but after couple DVDs, taking break, those "please wait" messages popped up when I powered it on again. It went through please wait, self check, over and over for half an hour. I want to fix it at least to be able to continue with copying the contents to DVDs.

I read many online post about conductive pen, copper trace tapes, etc. to reapit copper trace / pads.
Would it helpful in my situation? I mean to disolder these 2 capacitors and redo the soldering on those 2 positions with "curing" the copper trace / pad damage first?

I am not sure whether it is proper forum for this topic, but I did not find any detailed forum for printed circuit board and lifted / removed copper trace / pads in connection with dvd recorder.
I am not expert in printed circuit boards, and I am not quite sure what is the proper classification of the "damage" that occured and how to fix it, if possible.

Did anyone experienced anything like that? Is there a way to save the dvd recorder at least for couple days to get its content out?
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post #29 of 74 Old 03-24-2011, 09:20 PM
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Try just soldering a jumper wire from the cap to the next component - follow the failed trace and see where it goes. They all go somewhere
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post #30 of 74 Old 03-24-2011, 11:17 PM
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Thanks for you recommendation. I am not sure how to do it. I think I will make some pictures and post them. In one position, it looks like the connection is going to four tiny "components" (small wires only, no regular caps.)
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