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post #61 of 78 Old 06-28-2013, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billmich View Post

I am looking for the converters so that I can record out from the HDMI output of my laptop
And also keep any widescreen flag that may be on there

Church AV Guy's post reminded me I didn't address this point, billmich. In my experience, the cheap HDMI>S/Composite converters DO NOT preserve any widescreen flags. Any capture device you connect to the analog outputs of the converter will record whatever aspect ratio the converter is displaying, so the captured recording becomes a raw unflagged version. IOW, the converter takes the normal-looking 16:9 HD signal displayed on the laptop and downconverts it to SD 16:9 that's *anamorphically squeezed into a 4:3 frame*. In my case, I'm streaming from laptop to DVD recorder, so the resulting DVDs end up being optimized for 16:9 TVs (because they display as squished on 4:3 TVs and require manual unsqueezing to 16:9 using the aspect ratio button functions of an HDTV).

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Originally Posted by Church AV Guy View Post

I am curious. Why is maintaining the widescreen flag so important to you? [...] the widescreen flag is just becoming a nonfunctional anachronism.

Aside from needing the flag to trigger players to letterbox for 4:3 displays, I'm guessing (?) some 16:9 TVs use detection of it to automatically unsqueeze anamorphic video to 16:9. My Pioneer DVD recorders can make 16:9 DVDs, but they are anamorphic squeezed with no WS flag. These don't letterbox on 4:3 TVs, and my Sony LCD HDTVs with auto-aspect-ratio do not automatically unsqueeze them to 16:9 (instead i have to fumble for the remote and manually expand the frame). The Sony HDTVs *do* automatically unsqueeze anamorphic DVDs I make on my PCs using DVDflick, if I set it to author as 16:9 with the flag.

Perhaps I'm wrong, and the TV is sensing some other flag as trigger to auto-unsqueeze. And this is only an issue if your TV has an automated aspect ratio feature: my Sony does, my Samsung supposedly does but it isn't reliable, and my Panasonic is totally manual (needs to have AR set via remote for every video).
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post #62 of 78 Old 06-28-2013, 09:35 AM
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Maybe I should have used the term "flag"
I like how my component/composite converter used te "squeeze" so that I don't have black bars all the way around, I'm assuming that this hdmi/composite device can accomplish the same thing

I think I'll go with the viewHD PIECE.. From what you guys are saying
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post #63 of 78 Old 06-28-2013, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billmich View Post

I like how my component/composite converter used te "squeeze" so that I don't have black bars all the way around, I'm assuming that this hdmi/composite device can accomplish the same thing

Yes, exactly this. If your laptop is showing a 16:9 HD video, the HDMI converter will downconvert it to SD 16:9 squeezed into a 4:3 frame. It will play without black borders on a 16:9 television, all you might need to do is set your TV frame button to "full" so it unsqueezes the 4:3 to correct screen-filling 16:9.
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post #64 of 78 Old 06-28-2013, 10:21 AM
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Bingo!!!
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post #65 of 78 Old 02-27-2014, 01:53 PM
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Hi, I'm late to the party here, but I'm hoping that someone will read this thread and maybe provide me with an answer.

 

As I found out the hard way, cable and satellite companies are now protecting ALL of their content, not just the pay movie channels.

 

I own an old DVD recorder, which for years in the "old" system worked fine.  I would have the cable box s-video output (much more resolution than a yellow composite cable) and the red/white audio cables go from my box to my DVD recorder.  I also had a DV input for my camcorder, but I never did anything with that with television.

 

Anyway, this setup made very nice DVD's of football games and stuff like movies on TCM.  Not high def, of course, but not that much worse than a standard commercial DVD.  If the source content was widescreen, then so too was the recorded DVD.

 

I went merrily along with this for years.   Until a couple of years ago.

 

Time Warner cable, and I guess all cable and satellite companies, now changed things such that this setup will no longer record.  I can have the s-video (with live TV or playing content from the DVR seeming to make no difference) go straight from the cable box to a TV, and I can certainly watch TV.  But, send it to the recorder, and you get nothing.  I even tried sending the signal to the television, and then using a video & audio out hookup on the TV to go to the DVD recorder, and again got nothing.  So, the protection is pretty smart.

 

Strangely enough, the yellow composite video output still works when attaching the cable output to the DVD recorder, but who wants THAT kind of picture, which is pretty much equivalent to a VCR.  Ugh.

 

I'm not exactly a technophobe, but a lot of conversation in this thread has gone over my head.  So, I'll state my questions and hope for replies:

 

1.  Is my problem clear?  I want to record both straight off of the cable or through the DVR to my DVD recorder, using something better than yellow composite video.

 

2.  Is there a solution?  Does that solution involve purchansing some sort of equipment?

 

3.  LOL, can you direct to me a site that will SELL me this equipment?

 

Thanks much, folks.  I REALLY want to record my teams' sports seasons onto DVD.  And the NCAA Tournament will soon be upon us!!!!

 

 

Scott

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post #66 of 78 Old 02-27-2014, 02:23 PM - Thread Starter
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It would help if you said what brand DVDR you had but since it use to to work I assume your DVDR is set to look at the S-video input vs composite? Some DVDRs like Panasonic always look at the S-video input when a S-video cable is inserted, with others like Funai (Magnavox, newer Toshibas, etc.) you need to go into the setup and select S-video instead of composite.

It makes no sense that the S-video will display on your TV but not play through your DVDR, if the signal is CP it shouldn't effect passthru, only when you push REC you would get a warning and it wouldn't record. Note some(many cable) HD STBs/DVRs will disable composite/S-video outputs when you also use HDMI but this doesn't sound to be the case since I assume HDMI was also hooked to your TV when you ran the S-video cable directly to your TV and also you say composite works, if S-video was blocked so should composite......

If indeed it's CP and your DVDR is refusing to even allow passthru if it has CP then something like a Grex video filter will remove the CP for you. I have one and while it does slightly degrade the picture it's nowhere near as bad as composite, that is if using S-video through the Grex. I bought mine from Amazon, ~$90 I believe.

http://www.amazon.com/XDIMAX-GREX-7-4-Grex-Video-Stabilizer/dp/B0096I2DNE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1393539764&sr=1-1&keywords=grex+video+stabilizer

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post #67 of 78 Old 06-05-2014, 08:02 AM
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other than the expensive HD Fury devices, are there any others that can convert from HDMI to "Component"?
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post #68 of 78 Old 06-05-2014, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billmich View Post

other than the expensive HD Fury devices, are there any others that can convert from HDMI to "Component"?
There was the ViewHD converter.The 2nd.gen. model was the best and did a darn good job of converting.Not quite as good as the Fury,but close.The cost was ~125.00 IIRC.Don't know if they're still available anywhere though.I'd try Amazon first,then ebay.

PS:Stay away from the 1st.gen.model...by ALL accounts that i read,it was pretty crappy.Sorry i can't remember the model numbers.

I once saw a side-by-side demo comparing the Fury and ViewHD(2nd.gen.) converters.The Fury clearly had better overall PQ,but the ViewHD was also quite good.It'd be worth the money to buy if you can find one.The user reviews i read were positively glowing,almost as much as the reviews i read for the Fury 2.
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post #69 of 78 Old 06-05-2014, 12:30 PM
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Thank you; as I am building my HTPC for recording and using Hauppauge Colossus;
I want to make sure that at future removal of component outputs can have a workaround;

does this until also "strip" any protection?
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post #70 of 78 Old 06-05-2014, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billmich View Post

....does this until also "strip" any protection?

AFAIK it will.If it didn't i don't think anybody would have bought it.wink.giftongue.gif
If i have my facts straight,converting HDMI(digital) to Component video(analog)always removes HDCP.That's why AVR manufacturers don't allow for the conversion from HDMI>Component video in those devices.I think it's illegal.frown.gif
Hope you can locate a unit to try out.
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post #71 of 78 Old 06-05-2014, 07:34 PM - Thread Starter
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I believe a HDCP complaint HDMI to component converter will disable the component output if a HDCP signal is detected. The original HD Fury converters were not HDCP complaint but later ones were. I believe it's still possible to purchase the older design but you may have to order if from overseas?? Someone else is sure to know more but this is what I remember.

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post #72 of 78 Old 06-06-2014, 06:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjeff View Post

I believe a HDCP complaint HDMI to component converter will disable the component output if a HDCP signal is detected. The original HD Fury converters were not HDCP complaint but later ones were. I believe it's still possible to purchase the older design but you may have to order if from overseas?? Someone else is sure to know more but this is what I remember.

You're right jjeff,the newer Fury models will shutdown if HDCP is detected.At least that's how they work out of the box.But the Fury is re-programmable by the user to work the way the user wants it too.
My older Fury-2 (bought 1/2011) worked perfectly out of the box,no re-programming needed.
If you buy a New Fury-2 now,it will have to be re-programmed.frown.gif
IIRC,the same HDCP compliance bug was introduced into the 3rd.gen.ViewHD converter,but i don't know if the ViewHD converter is re-programmable or not.That's why i suggested the 2nd.gen.model to the OP instead of the 3rd.gen.model IF he can find one.It worked right out of the box.
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post #73 of 78 Old 06-24-2015, 06:54 AM
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Does anyone know if this is a good converter for HDMI to S-video:

(can't post actual link because of my low post count)
www dot jtechdigital dot com
j-tech-digital-premium-quality-universal-hdmi-to-composite-s-video-pal-ntsc-converter.html

I just asked them if it will continue to output s-video if the HDMI is HDCP protected, hope to hear back from them soon.

I need something like this to convert the HDMI from my Motorola set-top box to my old Barco 801s beamer which I have always used with the s-video input with my DVD player. The last DVD rental place closed shop a while ago so I'd like to use the video-on-demand from my telco provider but the Motorola unit has no s-video output (not even on the Scart connection).

I also found this one

www dot protechet dot com
products/231.html

which I 've seen on eBay before.
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post #74 of 78 Old 06-24-2015, 10:18 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm guessing your talking about this converter:
http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital...hdmi+converter
Which looks very similar to all the other "generic" such converters that I've personally tried and was unsatisfied with for one reason or another. They generally don't take into account that HDMI is a different black level than NTSC composite/S-video resulting in a washed out picture for folks in N. America. Now if your not from N. America(I can't tell from your profile but you did mention SCART so I'm guessing you might be) you might have good luck with such converters. I also wasn't impressed with the resolution of such devices which IMO were noticeably less sharp than native S-video or even composite, on a 52" razor sharp HDTV. Now on a smaller or tube TV such converters may just look perfect, I'd guess they might.
If you can wait, I just ordered a different looking HDMI to "composite"(did not have S-video) converter from Amazon for $29.99 shipped. I'm not holding my breath that it will be up to my satisfaction but since it looks quite different than the converters I've tried prior and also the fact that Amazon has a good return policy, I figured I had very little to lose. A link for that converter is here:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s01
And note it's really meant for recording from a Roku type of stick but I see no reason it won't work with any device with a HDMI output, providing you supply it with a USB power supply(I'm going to try a USB phone charger that has a female USB socket on it).
Once I get mine I'll put it through the paces including checking that it "forgets to pass CP"..... and write up a review on it's new thread here:
New Kid On The Block..HDMI>composite converter
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Last edited by jjeff; 06-24-2015 at 10:24 AM. Reason: added link
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post #75 of 78 Old 06-24-2015, 02:57 PM
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jjeff...my guess would be that there won't be a problem with CP on the Roku Stick converter because of its intended use as an online streamer.
This converter was made specifically to stream content off the net from a Roku...and what do people stream most often thru a Roku??...Netflix of course...and Vudu,and Amazon,and other sources too.If people buy it to connect to an older tv but can't watch their movies from NF,Vudu,and Amazon because of CP issues,OR the video quality is Crap like all the other converters of its type,then this converter will be utterly worthless for its intended use,and Roku,whether they are behind its production/promotion or not,will likely get the blowback from pissed off Roku Stick owners whether Roku deserves it or not.It's the fact that this converter is specifically associated with Roku that makes me think it might work better than others of its type.
I would presume that the manufacturer took into account the fact that people will be streaming from services that routinely incorporate CP and designed this converter accordingly.But that's just a WAG....let us know how well it works when you get yours.

Last edited by greaser; 06-24-2015 at 04:00 PM.
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post #76 of 78 Old 07-03-2015, 11:41 AM - Thread Starter
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My review of the new $30 HDMI to Composite converter from Amazon, overall I'd give it a 8 out of 10, for the price maybe 9 out of 10, I'm happy and it won't be going back!
New Kid On The Block..HDMI>composite converter
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post #77 of 78 Old 07-06-2015, 05:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjeff View Post
I'm guessing your talking about this converter:
{link}
Which looks very similar to all the other "generic" such converters that I've personally tried and was unsatisfied with for one reason or another. They generally don't take into account that HDMI is a different black level than NTSC composite/S-video resulting in a washed out picture for folks in N. America. Now if your not from N. America(I can't tell from your profile but you did mention SCART so I'm guessing you might be) you might have good luck with such converters. I also wasn't impressed with the resolution of such devices which IMO were noticeably less sharp than native S-video or even composite, on a 52" razor sharp HDTV.
I'm from the Netherlands where PAL is used, not NTSC. However I had always assumed that the black-level issue applied to both PAL and NTSC.

My Barco projector is a CRT based projector as you might know, used to be a fairly high-end model in the 80's. Apart from S-Video it also has VGA input (through 5 BNC connectors with separate H-Sync and V-Sycn although it also supported sync-on-green according to the manual). Only problem is it won't be easy to lay a BNC cable all the way from my settop box which is underneath my TV and near the amplifier. I have an S-video cable installed from there to the projector so it would be nice to get a decent picture quality through that. I've always been satisfied with the s-video output from my DVD player.

As for quality, the J-Tech uses a Faroudja converter, I though those were highly regarded at least in the past. Of course they could screw up a number of things even when using quality (or not) components.

Incidentally, J-Tech have confirmed that this unit will continue to ouput S-video if the HDMI input is HDCP protected.
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post #78 of 78 Old 07-06-2015, 05:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArjanPSD View Post
I'm from the Netherlands where PAL is used, not NTSC. However I had always assumed that the black-level issue applied to both PAL and NTSC.
The black level issue I'm talking about is when you convert HDMI or component, which has a 0 IRE black level everywhere to S-video or composite, which needs to be 0 for most of the world but +7.5 IRE for N. America. If this is not taken into account people in N. America will have a incorrect black level.
Now there may be other black level issues, and probably are but this is the one I was referring to when using such converters to convert HD to SD. If your in a 0 IRE PAL country you shouldn't have anything to worry about and I'd probably think you'll be just fine with the J-Tech converter.
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