Philips DVDR3455H/37 - Page 16 - AVS Forum
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post #451 of 926 Old 02-27-2007, 11:50 AM
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orienteer... I am sorry that you are having so much trouble. Have you updated your Firmware? That's one thing I would try. And I hate to tell you this, but Maxell/Ritek G05 is horrible media. Some of the worst there is. I have burned these with very good DVD Burners (NEC and Lite-On) and get nasty looking scans from them. Please try some Verbatim 8x or 16x DVD-R. These burn like champs in my Philips, and give good quality scans after the burn.
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post #452 of 926 Old 02-28-2007, 01:31 PM
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As I said, I am brand new to writing DVD's. Based on info I found on this site and other places - e.g. http://www.digitalfaq.com/media/dvdmedia.htm , I had the impression that the Maxell's were better than average... (I will order differently next time, but wanted something that I could pick up fast locally.)

Last night's tests: Wrote to a Maxell DVD-RW with no problems at all. Then tried writing to one of the Maxell DVD-R's. This one seemed to work, but was a bit odd. After the write completed, I was able to view the contents, but when I went up to where I would normally finalize the DVD, no options were available. I put the DVD into a different player, and all seemed to work. It appears as if the DVD had been finalized for me at the end of the write process, and without any action on my part.

Stephen
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post #453 of 926 Old 02-28-2007, 04:11 PM
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Stephen, that FAQ is quite outdated. Maxell used to be made by Maxell in Japan, and that Media was very good quality. The MIT Maxell has been mostly Ritek G05 Dye, which is much more important than what Brand Label the discs wear. G05 has a very poor reputation.

At this point I would only trust Taiyo Yuden MIJ DVD+/-R's available from Rima, Meritline and Supermediastore online, Verbatim DVD+/-R available at Samsclub, OfficeMax, BestBuy and possibly others, and the last remainiing Made In Japan Sony 16x DVD+/-R that will be available at WalGreens. There may also possibly be some vestige 8x Sony MIJ at Sears. The Sony MIJ 8x +R is made by Taiyo Yuden and very high quality. The 8x Sony MIJ DVD-R is decent media,but not Taiyo Yuden made.

Of all of those the Verbatim 16x DVD-Rs will probably be the easiest to find locally, and the Philips loves them. : ) All Verbatim MIT Media is currently top-grade stuff.

Oooopppps.... One more thing. There will be no Finalize option with -RW discs as the Philips writes to them in VR Mode rather than DVD Mode. No Finalize step is needed or available.

To Finalize a DVD you have to make sure you scroll UP ABOVE where the DVD Title Screens show up - THEN go to the right and the edit option should be there for DVD+/-Rs.
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post #454 of 926 Old 02-28-2007, 05:00 PM
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Thank you very much for the detailed media suggestions. Wish I had asked the media question a little bit sooner! I do plan to try at least one of your suggestions - leaning towards ordering the TY MIJ's (so I don't have to hunt anything down locally - although might do a quick check for Verbatim first). Learning about the different media codes has been an education.

Question: Do you have a preference for +R or -R? (I had been going with "-R" based on the assumption that this was more "standard", and might play in more readers.)

As long as I have them, I figure I will experiment some more with the Maxells. It seems like the writes are going okay, but there are some read problems on the last one or perhaps two titles written to the DVD - especially at the very end. [ Might try leaving more blank space on each DVD. ]

About the Finalize: It really was the "-R" that did not give me the option to finalize. When I was selecting titles, the selection bar went all the way to 100%, so maybe it realized there was room for nothing else and finalized for me. I have written a couple since then at 96% to 98% capacity, and with this the finalize is working as expected.

And finding the "Finalize" option was a bit of a challenge the first time around - kind of stumbled across it by accident...
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post #455 of 926 Old 02-28-2007, 07:06 PM
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You are most welcome. I don't mean to come across as a know-it-all. I have spent considerable time investigating this area and I do enjoy posting on these forums.

I just recently got a DVD Burner that allows me to do quality scans with Nero CD/DVD Speed, and the Ritek G05 dye discs are the worst looking scans by far. I will be re-burning everything I put on those Maxells because I don't think they are going to be readable several years from now. Some of my Memorex CMC Mag dye DVDs still look pretty good, and some will not scan/play at all.

With our Philips I see very little difference in using + or - R discs. I believe when we finalize these discs with the Philips it is in DVD Video Format and will be compatible with almost all players regardless of +/-R.
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post #456 of 926 Old 02-28-2007, 08:24 PM
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Sorry to keep coming back to this... You have mentioned 8x Sony but 16x Verbatim. Is there a reason to choose 16x Verbatim over 8x Verbatim? [ I still have so much more to learn... ]
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post #457 of 926 Old 02-28-2007, 10:43 PM
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Either 8x or 16x Verbatim will be just fine. Both the 16x and 8x use the same top quality AZO Metal Dye. The 16x have the Manuf. ID MCC 03RG20 where the 8x show MCC 02RG20. Both are manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Company. They are essentially the same except for Burn Speed Rating. If you have access to Samsclub thru a friend or family the 8x can be had for $12.88 per 50 (In N.C.) and the 16x are around $32.88 per 100. Both are very good media. These prices are as good as or better than online prices for the same media. Kudos to Samsclub for carrying these at such decent prices.


The Sony 8x DVD+R Made In Japan are desirable because they are manufactured for Sony by Taiyo Yuden, Manuf. ID Yuden000 T02, another top quality Dye/Manuf. combination. I have yet to have a coaster from these and burn quality is consistently good. If your local Sears still has these, scan the local sales papers and internet for a really great price somewhere else and then have Sears pricematch it for you. I bought around 500 of these top quality discs at far less than internet prices prices because Sears price matches and gives 10% of the difference, which can be a substantial savings in some cases.

The Sony 8x DVD-R MIJ are ID SONY08D1. These are decent but not as good as the Verbatim or Taiyo made Discs. The 16x DVD+R MIJ Sonys are SONYD21, again good media but not in the class of Verbatim or Taiyo Yuden mfg. Discs. I prefer the D21 media to the 08D1. Others may hold different opinions. These Media I have mentioned here, plus Taiyo Yuden DVD-R I order online are about the only Media I trust and will be using for myself.
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post #458 of 926 Old 02-28-2007, 11:36 PM
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yes stephen, the hd to dvd sucks. Mines' went back to fall apart walmart and another's on the way. maybe the third one will be OK.
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post #459 of 926 Old 03-02-2007, 03:13 PM
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Going to give the 16x DVD-R Verbatims a try ($19 for 100 after rebate from newegg.com if ordered by 3/4/2007).
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post #460 of 926 Old 03-02-2007, 03:58 PM
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Sweet deal. If your Philips doesn't like 'em I would strongly suspect a bum unit.
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post #461 of 926 Old 03-04-2007, 04:08 PM
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I picked up my Philips 3455H about 3 weeks ago. Before buying it I read this entire thread so I was well prepared for what I was getting myself into. Thanks, all, for posting so much useful information.

My own experiences with the Philips have overall been very positive. Mine came with the latest firmware already installed. I have experienced several lockups, but all are now predictable. For example, editing a recorded program to remove commercials works fine at first, but after 15 or 20 edits, the dark blue bands that indicate the removed segments disappear. Consider this a warning because if you keep editing, the Philips will lock up and require an unplug to bring back online. The good news is that the edits remain intact through the reset.

Also, for some reason my very old Sony DVD-RWs will essentially lock up my Philips. During an erase function the progress indicator remains at 0% and no disc functions are allowed. I can change back to tuner mode and flip channels, etc, but I can't perform any disc functions because the Philips thinks that it is still erasing the disc.

So I pull the plug, plug it back in, and eject the DVD-RW. I format it in my PC, and return it to the Philips. Now the Philips says that it's blank and I can try to transfer from the harddrive to the DVD-RW. Once again the progress indicator locks up and for all disc functions are locked. So I pull the plug again and figure that I need to get some new RW discs.

Previously in this thread, people have mentioned plugging in a DVD player to transfer videos to the harddrive. Here's a tip: Take an S-Video cable and loopback the S-Video Output on the Philips back into one of the S-Video Inputs. Switch to tuner mode and repeatedly hit the source button until the S-Video Input you've plugged into is selected. Immediately the screen will start showing funny compounding garbage because of the loopback. Think "point a video camera at the TV that it is connected to tunneling effect".

Anyway, now change to DVD mode and play your movie. Because you've selected the S-Video input as your source, and you are now playing the DVD out of the S-Video port, the Philips will automatically buffer your DVD.

What I've learned from this is that copy protected DVDs can be buffered, but not saved. Non-protected DVDs can be buffered, then saved just like you would with any video source. Unfortunately I ran across one problem with recording using this method. As we all know, some DVDs are presented in "widescreen" formatting. This is the type that has the black bars along the top and bottom of the screen. After years of messing with DVDs, I've noticed that some widescreen DVDs have the black bars actually encoded into the video, while other widescreen DVDs don't. It's like the DVD has no black bars, but has some bit set that instructs the DVD player to generate black bars on it's own.

The reason this is important is because if you have one of these DVDs and you copy it to the harddrive, when you play it back the bars are now recorded as a part of the video signal. Unfortunately, the signal to generate black bars is also recorded. You will get double the black bars. The bars will be twice as thick on playback which makes the video look very squashed. Kind of a weird effect.

Otherwise, if you have a fullscreen DVD or a widescreen that actually has the black bars encoded into the video, then this method works great for creating a little library of frequently viewed videos. Now my young kids can call up their favorite movies without hunting for the DVD (and handling it, scratching it, getting sticky stuff on it, losing it, etc...). Slick.

I do have one question for everyone... How do you bring saved video into a computer in an editable format? I had no luck with recording to my DVD-RWs, so I saved my recorded program on a DVD-R which worked great. I ended up with a pretty familiar set of VOB files. Unfortunately I was unable to do much with it after that. DVD Shrink wouldn't open the disc. Pinnacle Studio 10 wouldn't open the disc (although it will import VOB files from other DVDs). DVD Decrypter would copy it, but wouldn't parse the VOBs. TMPGEnc would open the first VOB, but would not open any of the other VOBs (which meant that I could edit about 35 minutes of my program, but not the rest). Magic DVD Ripper does seem to allow me to play the video and transcode it into another format (like AVI). I need to play around with Magic DVD Ripper some more because my resultant files were of much smaller resolution than my source files.

Several people have mentioned the VR discs that apparently using DVD-RWs will produce. Are these more forgiving? I'm going to have to go out and get some newer DVD-RWs and try that, too.

Thanks in advance for any help!
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post #462 of 926 Old 03-05-2007, 02:25 PM
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Did you Finalize the DVD-R? Reason I ask is because I routinely use DVD Shrink to transfer my DVD-Rs from this unit to the computer. The only time I encounter problems is when I have more than 1 Title on the DVD-R (or -RW). In those cases I have been able to use DVDFab Decrypter (free download) to breakdown the files onto my computer, and then DVD Shrink to edit them if necessary. Of course editing with Shrink actuall creates tons of new Titles which play back fine, but I cannot rew. past the beginning of whatever "title" I am currently viewing. In effect, when I edit with Shrink I wind up turning 1 Title into many smaller "titles".

In a few instances I have used the FixVTS in conjunction with another free DVDRipper (can't think of the name at the moment).

fixvts
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post #463 of 926 Old 03-05-2007, 03:57 PM
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Yes, I finalized the DVD-R, but Shrink wouldn't open the disc.

The only thing that may be a little different about my recorded program is that I edited it in the Philips before burning it. I removed the maximum number of commercials in one continuous recording before the Philips wouldn't let me anymore (somewhere between 15 and 20 for the three hour program).

When you burn your programs to DVD that Shrink can read, have you done any editing before burning?

I'll try FixVTS and DVDFab Decrypter and let you know. I guess I can also try burning another DVD without doing any editing in the Philips.

Thanks for the help!
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post #464 of 926 Old 03-05-2007, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beretta96 View Post

Yes, I finalized the DVD-R, but Shrink wouldn't open the disc.

The only thing that may be a little different about my recorded program is that I edited it in the Philips before burning it. I removed the maximum number of commercials in one continuous recording before the Philips wouldn't let me anymore (somewhere between 15 and 20 for the three hour program).

When you burn your programs to DVD that Shrink can read, have you done any editing before burning?

I'll try FixVTS and DVDFab Decrypter and let you know. I guess I can also try burning another DVD without doing any editing in the Philips.

Thanks for the help!

The other free program is RipIt4Me. It will integrate automatically with DVDDecrypter, FixVTS, and DVDSHRINK. Pretty nice combo.

I almost always edit my programs on the Philips prior to burning them to a DVD. For me, the key has been if there is more than 1 Title on the DVD. More than 1 Title per disc has been where I have had to get creative. The DVDDecryter and FixVTS have been integral to working with the DVD-RWs. Let me know...... Also the DVDFABDecrypter is very handy for working with the DVD-RW VR Files.
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post #465 of 926 Old 03-05-2007, 06:56 PM
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P.S. My limit on edits seems to be 16 or 17. The bar goes blank at 15, and if there have been some very short edits I can do 1 or 2 more before lockup......

For longer games/programs I have to split into seperate Titles to be able to fully edit them.
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post #466 of 926 Old 03-05-2007, 08:30 PM
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I didn't have much time to play around with it tonight, but I did learn something worth noting...

First I tried FixVTS. It seemed to crunch through the VOB files and find lots of problems. When it was done, I was confident that things would now work. Bonk! Nope. Shrink still won't read the DVD Files on my harddrive. Pinnacle Studio still won't import them. TMPGEnc still won't read them, either.

Ok, so I install DVDFab Decrypter. It immediately tells me that I am running SlySoft AnyDVD in the background and that I must shut it down before DVDFab Decrypter will work properly. Ok, I shut AnyDVD down and restart DVDFab Decrypter. Oddly, it is able to play the whole video in the small preview window, but it errors out when I try to rip the whole thing to my harddrive.

I'm about to give up for the evening when I realize that until now, I've always been running SlySoft AnyDVD. If you're not familiar with AnyDVD, it is a slick little background app that makes all DVDs appear to not be copy protected among other things. It will strip all the latest copy protections that I've ever seen and basically make DVD Shrink fully functional again even against newer protection schemes.

So now with AnyDVD disabled, I re-run Shrink and what do you know... It works! I don't have any idea why, but clearly AnyDVD was messing with Shrinks ability to chew on the original DVD that the Philips had created.

I'll play with it some more later and keep you posted.
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post #467 of 926 Old 03-05-2007, 08:45 PM
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Cool.....glad you figured it out. BTW, in some cases with -RW Discs I have had to use the "copy main movie" option to get my -RW DVD to copy to the HDD.
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post #468 of 926 Old 03-06-2007, 04:04 PM
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I just tried to burn a dvd. It starts at 0% then stops. I can't burn any dvds. I thougth it was because I was using cheap DVD +Rs. But now I have tried good ones. -R and +R/W... none of them work... time to send it in...
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post #469 of 926 Old 03-15-2007, 05:58 PM
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I've had my DVDR3455H/37 for 2 1/2 months and can't live without the 6 Hr buffer. But, at least three times a week it doesn't complete the 18 second boot/initialization when power is turned on. It is unpredictable. It hangs on power ON from both the remote and the program timer. When power is turned on, the blue screen comes up, but the init process doesn't complete. The unit ends up in a 26 second cycle (25 blue screen, 1 black) that just keeps repeating. It will not respond to the remote or any of the unit's buttons.

It came with the latest firmware. I run the 10 minute OFF, hold the unit's power ON button for 5 seconds (until after the screen blinks) procedure each time. (I made up an extension cord with a switch in it so I don't have to unplug the thing.) It has been OFF so there shouldn't be a temperature problem.

Is there anything else I should try before taking it back to Walmart?
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post #470 of 926 Old 03-15-2007, 07:25 PM
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Jazon and rf008...

I'm on a search for more current/new problems that might be caused by the recent change in DST, for which our DVDRs have not been programmed.

There are a couple on Panasonic models connected to SA 3250HD cable boxes that are locking up when connected to the box, but work fine when disconnected. Their boxes had recently had a DST SW update uploaded by the cable co. which (apparently) is causing a conflict with the already programmed DVDR DST instructions.

Those units are also connected via Line 1, and other Line Inputs work OK (I think).

Turning DST off in the DVDR made one unit work w/o lockup, but the total fix was to change the box to an older model that didn't have the current DST timing.

Anything in this that might apply to the Philips?


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post #471 of 926 Old 03-15-2007, 11:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rf008 View Post

I've had my DVDR3455H/37 for 2 1/2 months and can't live without the 6 Hr buffer. But, at least three times a week it doesn't complete the 18 second boot/initialization when power is turned on. It is unpredictable. It hangs on power ON from both the remote and the program timer. When power is turned on, the blue screen comes up, but the init process doesn't complete. The unit ends up in a 26 second cycle (25 blue screen, 1 black) that just keeps repeating. It will not respond to the remote or any of the unit's buttons.

It came with the latest firmware. I run the 10 minute OFF, hold the unit's power ON button for 5 seconds (until after the screen blinks) procedure each time. (I made up an extension cord with a switch in it so I don't have to unplug the thing.) It has been OFF so there shouldn't be a temperature problem.

Is there anything else I should try before taking it back to Walmart?

Guys, I would swap those out ASAP. Sounds like they are Fubar'd.
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post #472 of 926 Old 03-18-2007, 06:08 AM
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wabjxo

My DVDR, VCR, computers, FAX, etc. are all set for manual time control so I had no problem with DST. My hang ups are only associated with the initial boot of the processor at power ON.
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post #473 of 926 Old 03-18-2007, 06:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rf008 View Post

wabjxo

My DVDR, VCR, computers, FAX, etc. are all set for manual time control so I had no problem with DST. My hang ups are only associated with the initial boot of the processor at power ON.

My DVDR is set for manual clock also, but it has a separate setting for DST = ON or OFF. With it ON, it will change the time by one hour on April 1 (or whatever the old DST date was).


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post #474 of 926 Old 03-18-2007, 02:09 PM
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Hello again
I scanned over a few dozen posts, didnt see this addressed yet, sorry if its been asked and answered before. When I try to record to a dvd+RW, Memorx 4x, thats been used and formatted with Nero on my PC, my Philips fails to detect the dvd. This occurs when I want to record from HD to the RW, but if I put in a RW that has Divx or .vob files(dvd) it sees and plays them fine. It burns to all my other record once dvds, just not the RWs. Any help?
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post #475 of 926 Old 03-18-2007, 04:10 PM
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Try formatting the +RW with the Philips.
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post #476 of 926 Old 03-31-2007, 06:46 PM
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For those interested in making this a multiregion player, i can confirm that this method works:
- Power on
- Switch to DVD mode
- Open tray
- Press 0 0 8 6 0 0 0 on remote
- Press OK
- Power off the unit using remote
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post #477 of 926 Old 04-02-2007, 10:39 PM
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well all, I took the third one back Sunday night. It's so much quicker going in at 9pm and walking straight to the electronics department. The cashier knew me, and gave money instead of crediting the walmart card (it was purchased on their website.) By the way, I noticed they're no longer in stock. Wonder if they've figured out that 1 in 10 seem to work?
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post #478 of 926 Old 04-03-2007, 07:22 PM
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My local WalMart has these on clearance now for just a shade over $240. The new Philips DVDR 3575H Shelf Sku Card was out on the shelf of my local Walmart tonight. It will be a similar unit to the 3455/37 with an ATSC (Digital) Tuner paired with a 160gb HDD.

They had many other DVD Recorders marked down as well.
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post #479 of 926 Old 04-15-2007, 07:01 PM
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I was wondering if anyone else that has this dvd player has problems with the following items. I've taken back the DVD player once and the new one has the exact same problems as the previous one..

1. Audio over optical randomly cuts out for ~1-2 seconds during playback of darn near anything. Happens once every 20-30 minutes on average.

2. Certain commercial DVD's, mainly by Sony, lock up the DVD player at the menu. The only way that I've found is to unplug the DVD player, then hit stop before the menu starts it's loop, and manually try to play a chapter. It seems to be related to their copy protection, and has happened on (certainly not a nearly comprehensive list, just a couple that come to mind): An American Haunting, Children of Men, or anything else I've tried with the Sony Arccos protection scheme.

Sadly, the only way I could get them to work was.... To copy them. Sort of ironic IMHO. Philips customer support is some of the worst that I've seen, and they want me to send this one in (they seem to have forgotten the whole 'already replaced the unit' part), so that they can repair it. They refuse to give me a different model until I spend money sending it to them.

Has anyone had any good experiences or luck with customer service from Phillips? I'd love to hear any way to get them to actually solve the problem (most likely firmware related, just like the host of other firmware bugs out there) instead of just wanting you to invest more money sending it into them again?
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post #480 of 926 Old 04-17-2007, 03:17 PM
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the 3455 is basically junk. call customer service and maybe they'll send you one that works. or just return it.
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