Magnavox 557, 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 227 - AVS Forum
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post #6781 of 25899 Old 10-01-2009, 02:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daniel711 View Post

That's a better idea... By putting the STB and the 2160 'in-line', you lose the use of the 2160's excellent tuner

Huh!?


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post #6782 of 25899 Old 10-01-2009, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteelTownGuy View Post

Auskck, one of our resident hard disk drive pioneers

That's a name I haven't seen in a while. His last post was over a month ago(8/24) I hope he's doing well ^^I think Dan was agreeing with artwire that it's a better idea to use a splitter than feeding the 2160 from the STBs RF output(that might be modulated to only output channel 3 or 4). By using the splitter both STB and 2160 can tune all clear QAM channels.
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post #6783 of 25899 Old 10-01-2009, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjeff View Post

That's a name I haven't seen in a while. His last post was over a month ago(8/24) I hope he's doing well ^^I think Dan was agreeing with artwire that it's a better idea to use a splitter than feeding the 2160 from the STBs RF output(that might be modulated to only output channel 3 or 4). By using the splitter both STB and 2160 can tune all clear QAM channels.


I think that's what he meant, too. I didnt want to go out of the STB rf, and the mag tuner IS good (just not getting as many clear QAM as before they changed the line up -I'm pretty sure I'm picking up what they are offering - they're just not offering much!

I was considering using RF out from Mag and in to my panny dvd recorder, but I forgot this is a *tunerless* panny! Duh! So, using line input to the panny EA38 instead . At this point, though, I think I have most bases covered and I can reach a few front inputs if I need to string in a freestanding vhs for dubbing. VHS play and DVD play/record via panny, DVD play/record and HDD record/play on the mag, with good tuner for QAM, STB with channels I cant see wtih the QAM and on demand, and STB and OTA antenna to tv, in case the cable goes out. May tweak set up a bit, but Ive worked enough. I want to play...
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post #6784 of 25899 Old 10-01-2009, 02:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjeff View Post

That's a name I haven't seen in a while. His last post was over a month ago(8/24) I hope he's doing well ^^I think Dan was agreeing with artwire that it's a better idea to use a splitter than feeding the 2160 from the STBs RF output(that might be modulated to only output channel 3 or 4). By using the splitter both STB and 2160 can tune all clear QAM channels.

No one should be connecting from STB to this DVDR via coax... even if this DVDR can't tune ANY channels. That's no reason to add a splitter. Only if you order PPV or VOD thru the coax.

Give your STB a boost in signal from this DVDR rather than a -3.7dB loss! And tune whatever channels you can as a bonus!

(Satellite excluded, of course!)


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post #6785 of 25899 Old 10-01-2009, 03:33 PM
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minor crisis averted -- i ran into a weird 'dubbing' glitch when things seemed to get stuck -- i had simply clicked the ddubbing on the remote without going through set up and it seemed to be dubbing, but after a half hour it was pretty clear that nuthin was happening -- the indicator wasn't making any progress. I yanked the plug (I know... reckless!. Took a look at the instructions (oh, that!) and after replugging (it kept settings!) the second time around I selected the item to be dubbed - it recorded quickly and it's fine (picture looks really nice on the DVD copy at SP ) . Also recorded directly to the DVD to test that. Next will tackle timer recordings -- I did a quick one just to be sure HDD and clock (manual) worked ok ... I can tell already that having this second 2160 will be great fun ! Saving formatting for last, but I think I know what to expect on that score!

Will try to record on demand and see what happens next ....
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post #6786 of 25899 Old 10-01-2009, 05:18 PM
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One more minor discrepancy in the OP. I was looking for the routine to find the MID of my discs. I found the procedure very quickly using the OP, and found most of my media was 2nd class according to Digitalfaq.com, a few were third class and a few were 1st class. Anyway the discrepancy, and I quote:

To exit: Press the left arrow key back to the FW screen, then press ONLY the BACK key to exit, NOT the OK key.

This is probably how the Philips works but on my 2160a to exit you need to push RETURN. Note it says this on the bottom of the screen, so it wasn't a big deal, the left key does nothing at the FW screen. The warning to NOT push OK is accurate, doing that will return the machine back to factory defaults
Kind of a cool routine and I like how it even works on finalized discs. On my Panasonics once the disc is finalized I have no way of telling what type it was(+-R or RW) let alone the MID for any discs. Of course I can tell the type by looking at it, unless I've covered it with a label.
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post #6787 of 25899 Old 10-01-2009, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gastrof View Post

Check the instructions that came with your desktop.

My HP laptop has S-video output, but to get it going you have to cycle thru some monitor-related settings. These changes can be managed by buttons and keys already on the keyboard. Nothing you have to go to a window for.

Using it I've been able to play some stuff directly from the computer into my DVD recorder, record to the hard drive, and then burn to DVD.

The audio connection is a bit hinky, tho'. An adapter was needed to pipe the headphone output into twin RCA audio cables to feed the DVD recorder, and it picks up a bit of noise/hum, apparently due to the laptop using an external power block. (My battery is so shot it only lasts a few seconds now, but when the power plug is pulled, before the computer goes dead the hum does disappear from the audio feed to the recorder.)

You should be able to do this if you just find out how your computer makes the S-video feed active.

What type of computer is it?

Don't have any instructions. The desktop was a leftover from work they gave me to support working from home. Even if I had desktop directions, I'm sure the video card in question was an add-on.

With my prior desktop, I was able to run a video feed to the TV from the S-video jack on the video card I had bought. The video cards that come with the PC never seem to have external connections other than a monitor connection.

I had to go through an elaborate selection of menu items to tell the darn PC to send the signal to the TV. You would think it would be automatic.

My desktop keyboard does not have any icons for the monitor. I have owned prior computers that used the F4 key to toggle the display.

I think the problem is likely due to the activation of the E-1 port on the 3575 that another poster mentioned.

Thanks,

Chris
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post #6788 of 25899 Old 10-01-2009, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stump69 View Post

Chris, according to my manual, E1 is the rear input, and it has to be setup to use the S-video as source. You might want to confirm that the S-video input is indeed active on the 3575. I have used this for streaming Netflix movies from my Compaq laptop.

From page 51 of the manual: General Setting>Video>Video Input. You will see a toggle there for Video/S-Video.

I bet you are on to something here. I didn't realize you had to go through the menu to activate the S-Video input. I will check that. I bet it solves the problem. Thanks for your help!

Chris
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post #6789 of 25899 Old 10-01-2009, 05:41 PM
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do you have to turn progressive scan to on if you are using an HDMI cable? I thought it was only for component but it accepted the setting even though I'm hooked up through HDMI.

thanks
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post #6790 of 25899 Old 10-01-2009, 05:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheaplikeafox View Post

do you have to turn progressive scan to on if you are using an HDMI cable? I thought it was only for component but it accepted the setting even though I'm hooked up through HDMI.

It's only for Component. HDMI uses its own format settings/button.


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post #6791 of 25899 Old 10-01-2009, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjeff View Post

One more minor discrepancy in the OP. I was looking for the routine to find the MID of my discs. I found the procedure very quickly using the OP, and found most of my media was 2nd class according to Digitalfaq.com, a few were third class and a few were 1st class.

Kind of a cool routine and I like how it even works on finalized discs. On my Panasonics once the disc is finalized I have no way of telling what type it was(+-R or RW) let alone the MID for any discs. Of course I can tell the type by looking at it, unless I've covered it with a label.

jjeff, FYI
Another method you might be interested in: load the disk into your PC burner and run that copy of DVD Decrypter. The info panel on the right side will give you all the specs of the disk including MID and write speeds. Works for burned or blank disks and if you have more than one disk just pop them in and out of the burner with Decrypter running. As soon as it reads the disk it lists the info.

- kelson h

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post #6792 of 25899 Old 10-01-2009, 06:58 PM
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I brought up DVD Decrypter(with a DVD in my tray) but what option do I select to see the MID?
The right side of Decrypter only lists the files on the disc.
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post #6793 of 25899 Old 10-01-2009, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjeff View Post

I brought up DVD Decrypter(with a DVD in my tray) but what option do I select to see the MID?
The right side of Decrypter only lists the files on the disc.

Click "Mode" at the top menu and select ISO/Write.

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post #6794 of 25899 Old 10-01-2009, 11:01 PM
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> HDD Power On Hours: 1
>
> I have a feeling Funai is factory resetting this info.
>
> "Funai can not reset the hours on the HDD information is held on the HDD FW"

When the HDD is replaced, the POH count drops back to zero hours.

A record test of a few seconds causes the hours jump to 1.
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post #6795 of 25899 Old 10-02-2009, 06:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sydyen View Post

> HDD Power On Hours: 1
>
> I have a feeling Funai is factory resetting this info.
>
> "Funai can not reset the hours on the HDD information is held on the HDD FW"

When the HDD is replaced, the POH count drops back to zero hours.

A record test of a few seconds causes the hours jump to 1.

Interesting .... So we either have an almost new refurb or one with a
new hard drive .... Or maybe they're just reformatting the old hdd now because of all the complaints and that resets the stats. Given their history though, I kind of doubt they're spending that much time on these refurb units . I'm thinking it's more likely that people use it til they try to finalize a disc and then whooosh-- back it goes because it's defective.
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post #6796 of 25899 Old 10-02-2009, 07:46 AM
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Noticing some overscan for content coming into the L1 input (via Svideo) from cable box this am -- and I'm seeing it on something I recorded last night too. The magnavox 2160 is connected to my tv in the third HDMI port whihc was a "game" port - so I'm not sure if I'm getting the extra line at the top because of the TV's setting, the mag setting , or the cable box. Need to either tweak a setting or swap ports (I'll try that right now). I didn't notice this problem last night, so either they don't broadcast a full signal in the morning (the locals go high def in prime time) ... or I was zoomed in, or I accidentally undid something. Would like to undo it if possible - it's a line at the top of the picture and a little annoying when it flickers and changes. Is this new user error or a resolution/setting thing?

Note -- it's not the port, I swapped it and still see it. It's not affecting the built in tuner signal (whcih fills the screen), so I'm guessing it's either a restriction on the svideo input size, or ... a setting that needs to be overwritten. I vaguely remember clicking something to output HDMI to full screen, but cant remember where it is and cant find it again. I'll bet that's it. Anyone ?
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post #6797 of 25899 Old 10-02-2009, 07:57 AM - Thread Starter
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My pic via HDMI shrinks on my Vizio LCD if I send a 1080p format. Try 480p and let your TV do the scaling and sizing... it's prob. better at it anyway?

While you're at it, try YCbCr Format rather than RGB?


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post #6798 of 25899 Old 10-02-2009, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

My pic via HDMI shrinks on my Vizio LCD if I send a 1080p format. Try 480p and let your TV do the scaling and sizing... it's prob. better at it anyway?

While you're at it, try YCbCr Format rather than RGB?

Just tried YCbCr and I think it's definitely less contrasty than RGB with enhanced checked, but will wait til later and test in darker environment.

Would using component cables, instead, be a good idea? I wasn't sure if this behavior was an HDMI-related issue? I honestly didn't notice it last night, so assumed it was something I did -- maybe it's just a garbage in garbage out situation .
Thanks, Wajo!


Changing HDMI resolution to 480 or 720 didn't change it - but .... interestingly, it's not on ALL tv incoming content (for example some commercials DO NOT HAVE that same effect - black border fades to background without the static line at the top) but the programming schedule does have it on various channels ... at least the programming coming out of the comcast box. Ondemand programs have it now, too . Maybe it's a problem in what they are feeding ... but if feels like a 'setting' issue. I just looked at two things I recorded last night off the cable box and they are both perfect -- it's not my imagination... it was ok yesterday. But something I recorded later has the bar at the top. Hmmmm....




EDIT - one more item - I found the 'missing setting' I remembered using last night - it was on the DVD recorder, not the 2190. That allows you to change 'normal to full on HDMI output. No difference with the static at the top. I can use internal tuner for the overnight recording and I will check tonight to see if Comcastic will be sending out a better picture via the STB in the evening. This is a new .... unexpected development. STB picture is ok to tv but I see the interference when fed through the 2160 ...regardless of the resolution setting on the Motorola STB or the resolution on 2160a. Hmmmm.....

it's not happening on my other one, but I'm not using a STB on the other 2160, so I'm inclined to think it has something to do with the Motorola STB output.

I have been fiddling with this and the only conclusion I can come up with is that it seems to only affect the HD channels on the STB but not the SD ones . Not a problem if watching live, as I can set the input on the tv -- the moto box to TV works perfectly ... moto box to 2160 exhibits this glitch. It would be a drag to think that all recordings made with the cable box will have this line at the top. Recordings through the mag tuner are fine, so I will do that for now for any channel that I can pick up as QAM. I also will swap for component cables as soon as I get a few y audio adapters and see if that 'fixes' things - but so far, all settings on both moto box and 2160 and tv have been tweaked and nothing seems to have fixed it. TV looks best with box set to 1080i, but I've tried all the lower settings too . Nothing changed ... so far....
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post #6799 of 25899 Old 10-02-2009, 08:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artwire View Post

Just tried YCbCr and I think it's worse than RGB with enhanced checked, but will wait til later and test in darker environment. RGB seems more contrasty, but sometimes that's OK. If you're watching a batman movie, not so much....

Will change format to 480p and see.... but wondering, would using component cables, instead, be a good idea? I wasn't sure if this behavior was an HDMI-related issue? I honestly didn't notice it last night, so assumed it was something I did -- maybe it's just a garbage in garbage out situation . Will report findings . Thanks, Wajo!

Just a FYI... that Enhanced setting only affects the RGB format and doesn't matter when YCbCr is set. However, the format will revert back to RGB if it senses your TV is not YCbCr compatible. So, in that case, the Enhanced setting comes into play again.

Only "problem" in using Component with a 2160 is that Progressive Scan might produce a better pic in your system, but that negates using Composite or S-Video as alternates... however, that might be something only I do for testing, etc.


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post #6800 of 25899 Old 10-02-2009, 08:22 AM
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I just read the fix for this. I bought one 2 weeks ago and had this issue and called customer support. They just told me to return it. I bought another one and same thing.

So just so I understand - if I erase all timer recordings before I try to finalize a disk, it will finalize ok?

Also, which discs are better? I bought Sony DVD +Rs but one post said that DVD+RWs are better in this machine.

Will the DVD+RWs play in other "commercial" dvd players? The biggest advantage to the Hard Drive and disc is that I can dub shows for friends who don't have cable. Or I can dub things on disk that I want to use elsewhere.

I had a Philips DVDR3576H DVD Recorder with 160GB Hard Disc and Built-In Tuner that I LOVE - but I think the power supply died on it. (I'll post that to another forum)...

THanks for the help and tips. Any other suggestions would be most appreciated.
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post #6801 of 25899 Old 10-02-2009, 08:29 AM - Thread Starter
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This is the right thread for 3576 questions as well as 3575, 2080 and 2160.

+R discs are ideal in these PhilMag machines, altho -R work also. Here's some info on best discs, etc.

The +RW comment was prob. the workaround for the E19 bug for people who want to make discs to watch elsewhere but don't want to keep deleting all timer rec programs... +RW discs don't need Finalizing. People Format a batch of +RW discs with no timers set, then set timers and they have a batch of discs they can offload titles to for TEMPORARY use. RW discs are not recommended for long-term storage, like in your archives.

On the E19 error, that's a well-known FW bug which won't allow any of the Disc Edit functions (Format, Erase, Finalize) to complete (they start but fail at ~90%) as long as any timer rec programs are set.

Click #1 in my sig. for a list of all the Help Files you might need in the future.


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post #6802 of 25899 Old 10-02-2009, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelson View Post

Click "Mode" at the top menu and select ISO/Write.

Thanks Kelson, I tried several tabs but didn't want to get into trouble clicking a wrong one, it worked.

Quote:
Originally Posted by artwire View Post

Just tried YCbCr and I think it's definitely less contrasty than RGB with enhanced checked, but will wait til later and test in darker environment.

With my Sony LCD I've found RGB with enhanced works best for commercial DVDs while YCbCr works best for tuner or DVDs recorded off the tuner.
RGB enhanced makes the tuner output too dark on my TV, while YCbCr washes out the background on the commercial DVDs on the same TV.
Another option would be to use say HDMI for commercial DVDs and have different TV brightness settings and composite or Component for tuner/rerecorded DVDs. That way you could have two separate settings on your TV, since most newer TVs allow separate picture settings depending on input. I found out while the center brightness position of 50 (out of 100) works just fine for tuner, 33 is best for commercial DVDs to avoid light blacks, that or just change the RGB/YCbCr setting.
I'm not noting the black crush problem I had with the 3575 I tried a few years back, which is good.
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post #6803 of 25899 Old 10-02-2009, 01:33 PM
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I picked up a refurbished 2160 from J&R - ordered it earlier in the week and got it yesterday. I set it up yesterday after work and things were looking great. I have my coaxial running directly into the 2160 and then s-video line into my 42" TH42PW5 Panasonic Plasma monitor (no tuner) and audio directly into my Adcom preamp. I intend to use this to tune the "clear" digital QAM that comes over the coaxial in my apartment.

Everything was working fine until last night at about 3am. The thing started up by itself (because it was connected directly to my stereo and the amp was still on I heard it). This morning, it wouldn't respond to the remote at all, if I shut it off it turned back on and opened and closed the DVD tray. If I disconnected the power for 10min it restarted and seemed normal but I'm a little worried.

Anyone have any ideas? Did I get a lemon? Apologies if its something obvious but I'm nervous and would like to send it back to J&R asap.

So
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post #6804 of 25899 Old 10-02-2009, 01:48 PM - Thread Starter
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There are several things that could be at play but might be difficult to pinpoint.

I've had my 3575's and 2160 turn on when I was connected to my Vizio HDTV via HDMI. Altho you're not connected via HDMI, at least make sure HDMI Control is OFF in the HDMI menu... might have some influence?

On a couple of rare occasions, one of my DVDRs wouldn't turn off after a timer rec program had finished. Another user has had a few of those also, and that's when I discovered it might have been my HDMI connection, so I disconnected that and no more strange turn ons.

You could see if you have any options for that audio connection to the AVR, like maybe digital coax or L/R RCA, whichever you don't use now just to check for that as a possibility.

Still thinkin'... I don't think you've got a lemon... yet!


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post #6805 of 25899 Old 10-02-2009, 01:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PecanEater View Post

Everything was working fine until last night at about 3am. The thing started up by itself (because it was connected directly to my stereo and the amp was still on I heard it). This morning, it wouldn't respond to the remote at all, if I shut it off it turned back on and opened and closed the DVD tray. If I disconnected the power for 10min it restarted and seemed normal but I'm a little worried.

I addition to my post above, turn Auto Clock OFF for the time being.


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post #6806 of 25899 Old 10-02-2009, 02:24 PM
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Here's another simple thought -- this machine doesn't do AM/ PM quite the same way as my other recorders, and yesterday I accidentally set something to go off at the wrong time ... it was supposed to record at 12:30 am but it turned on this afternoon, instead. I guess, something like that could have awakened you if you had a timer recording set for daytime but it went on at 3 am instead.... Same thing with the clock itself -- be sure the AM or PM *takes* when you set it manually...
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post #6807 of 25899 Old 10-02-2009, 03:31 PM
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Since I am OTA, my 3575 and 3576 have been manual clock set only since the digital transition took place. However, I did notice something funny on a TV yesterday, that might have adversely effected recording on a 2160 that uses automatic clock setting.

On October 1, my TV was an hour slow on many stations. This was because many stations sent out wrong information in the PSIP field for DST control. There is a field that specifies the date when DST will switch which should be 0 until the transition is less than a month away. Many Denver stations appear to use the same buggy software and they set the transition date to 1 ON October 1, 2009. They were sending out the same values in the DST fields that they are required to send out early on November 1, 2009 which is the day DST does end, this year. Many tuners saw the transition day at 1 on October 1 and determined that Daylight Savings time had ended on October 1, 2009 at 2AM. My reading of the ATSC standard is that those tuners acted correctly. Since the transition date is still set to 1 on October 2, 2009 the tuners should now determine that DST is active, and will end on November 1 ,2009.

I wonder if some people with a 2160 got a recording of the program that came on an hour after the one they had scheduled to record on October 1, 2009.

Again, the problem should have gone away early this morning. On October 2, 2009, a 1 in the transition date can only refer to November 1, 2009.
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post #6808 of 25899 Old 10-02-2009, 05:00 PM
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When I set it up, I entered the time manually but didn't turn Auto Clock off. So perhaps something happened with that. Although as I said, the time was around 3am when it came back on.

I just tried the 11:57 method and it didn't pick up a time from my analog FOX channel. I went ahead and turned auto clock off and set it myself. We'll see what happens tonight.

Thanks for all the help.
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post #6809 of 25899 Old 10-02-2009, 08:48 PM
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I know this is totally off subject, but it appears that for the time being I will have more time to devote to my 'toys' since I got my walking papers (AKA: severance package) from work today.

My position was out-sourced to Singapore so I was let go.
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post #6810 of 25899 Old 10-02-2009, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stump69 View Post

I know this is totally off subject, but it appears that for the time being I will have more time to devote to my 'toys' since I got my walking papers (AKA: severance package) from work today.

My position was out-sourced to Singapore so I was let go.


Sorry to hear that, Stump.

Don't know what the job market is like where you are, or if you're able to relocate, but one little piece of advice stands out in my mind-

Don't say no to any job you can do, even it it's not in your regular line of work. Looking in your field is fine, but a job is a job. Take anything that'll cover your bills and that you can do.

Hope things go well for you.
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