Magnavox 557, 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 292 - AVS Forum
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post #8731 of 26013 Old 03-17-2010, 10:54 PM
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I've been chasing my cables, and it seems, my tail for two days. I've owned my 2160 since April 2009 and have had only minor issues that I've been able to work with because of this awesome forum, so thank you wajo and everyone.

Two days ago my wife was deleting some titles when the unit froze at a "yes/no" dialog. I was unable to get it un-frozen, so I pulled the plug on it for 30 minutes (which is what Funai told me to do last time it froze). On restart everything seemed ok, but I lost my channel setup, so proceded to redo them, starting with an auto-preset scan, followed by manual additions with rotor adjustments.

Background: The 2160 is I believe an A model, though the manual doesn't say it, and I'd have to pull it out to look at the back to check. It's hooked up to a Winegard 8200 with a CM 7750 (I think) pre-amp, in the Chicago/South Bend/Kalamazoo/Grand Rapids market. We actually watch stations in 360 degrees of antenna rotation! I have the signal split three ways: One to the 2160, and two others going to digital converter boxes (a Zinwell and a Digital Stream).

Since the unit froze and rebooted, I cannot receive all the stations anymore, though the converter boxes are receiving them "fine". I put "fine" in quotes because at the same time this happened we started experiencing the annual signal degradation in our area that comes with spring and summer. There is something atmospheric that comes every year, even before the leaves come out, when the sun starts moving north and the dismal west-Michigan sky starts to clear up.

The stations that refuse to come in are reading zero signal strength, and the screen is grey. There is no hint of any reception. The missing channels are normally weak, but I normally receive them, and received them just fine the same evening of the screen freeze. (And as I said, the Zinwell especially has no problem; I've checked the tuners side by side, and the point is that this was not an issue in the past.)

Can you offer any explanation or advice?

Thanks.
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post #8732 of 26013 Old 03-17-2010, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Thanks for confirming that. I revised it slightly and added it to the PLAY subject here.

that was a great find. Now if you please take more showers and have the same kind of epiphany for the 2160's
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post #8733 of 26013 Old 03-18-2010, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by freqdomain View Post

The stations that refuse to come in are reading zero signal strength, and the screen is grey. There is no hint of any reception. The missing channels are normally weak, but I normally receive them, and received them just fine the same evening of the screen freeze. (And as I said, the Zinwell especially has no problem; I've checked the tuners side by side, and the point is that this was not an issue in the past.)

Another observation and question:

I did another auto channel pre-set, this time with the rotor pointing toward one of the missing channels. That time the 2160 found the station. But then I had trouble tuning a different set of weak stations at other rotor locations.

This makes no sense. Was it just coincidence--did the station just happen to have a stronger signal at that moment--or could there be a technical reason that manual tuning of non-auto-channels is problematic on weak signals?
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post #8734 of 26013 Old 03-18-2010, 04:02 PM
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I am new so please excuse my ignorance. I just recieved a H2160MW9A that I purchased, in large part because of the discussion on this forum. Thanks to all for making my decision rather easy.

However, I have a probelm, I think. My audio is fine when listening directly to my TV but when I switch to Line L1 and set the source to the same TV station the audio is very very muted (almost not there).

I have conneted the H2160 directly to the incoming cable from the cable provider and then I have an cable connecting the H2160 directly to my TV. I also have video and audio (yellow, red and white) running from the output of the 2160 to the inout on the back of my TV. I have no other connections. I no my cables and the TV input jacks are fine because I coneected a DVD player to my TV and the audio level is normal.

Do I have a problem? Thanks in advance.
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post #8735 of 26013 Old 03-18-2010, 04:26 PM - Thread Starter
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If the audio is almost muted on analog channels, then the machine does have a problem. Audio on digital channels will typically be slightly lower, as explained in this help file.

Other than changing cables just to be sure, or trying HDMI connection, nothing much you can do. There's only one Audio Out connection, which supplies L/R audio for Composite YWR, S-Video and Component outputs.

The only audio control available, Playback > Disc Audio, only affects the playback of discs.
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post #8736 of 26013 Old 03-18-2010, 04:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by freqdomain View Post

Another observation and question:

I did another auto channel pre-set, this time with the rotor pointing toward one of the missing channels. That time the 2160 found the station. But then I had trouble tuning a different set of weak stations at other rotor locations.

This makes no sense. Was it just coincidence--did the station just happen to have a stronger signal at that moment--or could there be a technical reason that manual tuning of non-auto-channels is problematic on weak signals?

Multiple Auto Channel Presets may be needed to capture all channels... one time, it took 3 scans on my refurb'd 3575 to get all digitals back, in increments, first 3, then 2 more, than 8 more.

Also, I like to make sure people with tuning problems who have in-line amps don't have a digital signal that's too strong, which might not register in our simple "meters." The amp added to the DVDR's amplified coax circuit might be too much strength.

There's a simple "hang-by-a-thread" test described here that can tell whether the signal might be falling off the "digital cliff" described in that link.

For your rotating antenna, do the hang-by-a-thread thing described, then enter known channels in that position directly if necessary to see if they're there or not with an attenuated signal.

That test is a good place to start.
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post #8737 of 26013 Old 03-18-2010, 04:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bodhi78 View Post

that was a great find. Now if you please take more showers and have the same kind of epiphany for the 2160's



OK, I found a simple alternate method for playing or recording with one unit of multiples, even if some are simultaneously timer recording to the HDD.

Here's the procedure.


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post #8738 of 26013 Old 03-18-2010, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weballoon View Post

I am new so please excuse my ignorance. I just recieved a H2160MW9A that I purchased, in large part because of the discussion on this forum. Thanks to all for making my decision rather easy.

However, I have a probelm, I think. My audio is fine when listening directly to my TV but when I switch to Line L1 and set the source to the same TV station the audio is very very muted (almost not there).

I have conneted the H2160 directly to the incoming cable from the cable provider and then I have an cable connecting the H2160 directly to my TV. I also have video and audio (yellow, red and white) running from the output of the 2160 to the inout on the back of my TV. I have no other connections. I no my cables and the TV input jacks are fine because I coneected a DVD player to my TV and the audio level is normal.

Do I have a problem? Thanks in advance.

Does it act the same when playing a DVD? Well, actually that doesn't matter. Bad audio is bad audio. If you have another device to plug the YRW cables into and it is also bad, then I guess it's exchange time. Sorry.
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post #8739 of 26013 Old 03-19-2010, 01:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

OK, here's a very simple, alternate method for both brands, even if multiple units are simultaneously timer recording to the HDD:

1. Turn ALL multiple units ON and set them ALL on DVD drive.

2160/2160A: Press Power button to turn all units on, then front-panel DVD button or remote "DVD" button to switch all units to DVD drive. This will NOT stop any timer recordings or turn those unit off. It'll only turn Off units On. However, it WILL stop a manual recording and turn that unit off.
3575/3576: Press Power button to turn all units on, then remote "DVD" button to switch all units to DVD drive. This will just switch all units to DVD drive. Any timer recordings to the HDD will continue.

2. Set only the desired PLAY unit on HDD drive.
2160/2160A: Use front-panel HDD button or remote HDD button with remote right up against or very near right-side of front-panel window.
3575/3576: Use remote HDD button with remote right up against or very near right-side of front-panel window.

Pressing PLAY-mode buttons will now affect only the HDD-set machine and any other simultaneously recording units will not be affected since they'll remain on the DVD drive.

Pressing the CH+/- button and number buttons will change channels but that's all they'll do. DVD-set machines will still NOT be playable and, besides, they're not the machine you want to watch anyway.

Pressing the SETUP button still works on all machines, so don't make any SETUP changes you don't want to apply to ALL machines that are ON. However, it can be a great way to make global changes to all same-brand machines.


works like a champ! what I like the most is all Transport buttons on the DVD-selected machine are disable, especially the Record button. But I noticed that if it's the 2160A then live buffering is still going, have to test it again tomorrow.
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post #8740 of 26013 Old 03-19-2010, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Multiple Auto Channel Presets may be needed to capture all channels... one time, it took 3 scans on my refurb'd 3575 to get all digitals back, in increments, first 3, then 2 more, than 8 more.

I was always a little confused about multiple auto channel presets on the 2160 -- whether it adds channels or replaces channels you already have at the other rotor angles. Does it have to find a channel with Auto Channel Preset before you can manually tune it by punching in the channel number?

Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Also, I like to make sure people with tuning problems who have in-line amps don't have a digital signal that's too strong, which might not register in our simple "meters." The amp added to the DVDR's amplified coax circuit might be too much strength.

There's a simple "hang-by-a-thread" test described here that can tell whether the signal might be falling off the "digital cliff" described in that link.

Thanks very much for that info and link. I'm somewhat familiar with the digital cliff issue. In my case we experienced it once on my 2160 on a strong fairly-close station before I split the signal. The problem disappeared after splitting the signal to the other two TVs. The issues I'm having now are related to much weaker signals, but I'm going to try the hang-by-a-thread experiment for confirmation.

Oh, I also want to say that the mast-mounted pre-amp is standard equipment in this region. Normally there is no problem with too much gain, especially since most people are splitting it anyway.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

For your rotating antenna, do the hang-by-a-thread thing described, then enter known channels in that position directly if necessary to see if they're there or not with an attenuated signal.

Thank you for your advice!
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post #8741 of 26013 Old 03-19-2010, 07:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freqdomain View Post

I was always a little confused about multiple auto channel presets on the 2160 -- whether it adds channels or replaces channels you already have at the other rotor angles. Does it have to find a channel with Auto Channel Preset before you can manually tune it by punching in the channel number?

To be able to add digital channels manually, you just have to have an intial-setup Auto Preset that scans all 135 digital channels successfullly, even if it only gives you one channel.

Channels do not have to be in CH+/- button memory to be "there"... you can tune them with the number buttons and timer record them, and you can ADD them to button memory anytime using the Manual menu.

So, after one successful all-channel scan, you can do multiple auto-scans in any antenna position, which will simply leave older-position channels out of CH+/- memory, but then you can ADD those channels using the Manual Channel Preset menu... you just have to write the main channel numbers down for entry in that menu.

Another auto-scan would only be needed if on cable and they added new main channels or OTA cuz you won't know there might be new channels you can pick up (unless you go to the AVS local channel section and learn about new channels that way).

In fact, in your case, since you've completed an auto-scan successfully, you can now just add channels manually, as long as you know which channels should be tunable in each direction... no more auto-scans needed if you know what should be there already.

It's beginning to sound like your signal may be too weak, but the "hang" test will eliminate the opposite. I'm on cable and I had to add an indoor amp to just one RG59 feeder line for one bedroom, where that 3575 refused to pick up a single digital channel group of 3 channels. Installed the amp and no problem since.
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post #8742 of 26013 Old 03-19-2010, 07:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodhi78 View Post

works like a champ! what I like the most is all Transport buttons on the DVD-selected machine are disable, especially the Record button. But I noticed that if it's the 2160A then live buffering is still going, have to test it again tomorrow.

Thanks again for confirming that it works!

My 2160 also doesn't stop buffering while on DVD drive, but don't think that causes any problems for this multi-op procedure.

Any others with multiples of same brand can find a simple workaround for playing just one machine in this help file.
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post #8743 of 26013 Old 03-19-2010, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by freqdomain View Post

I've been chasing my cables, and it seems, my tail for two days. I've owned my 2160 since April 2009 and have had only minor issues that I've been able to work with because of this awesome forum, so thank you wajo and everyone.

Two days ago my wife was deleting some titles when the unit froze at a "yes/no" dialog. I was unable to get it un-frozen, so I pulled the plug on it for 30 minutes (which is what Funai told me to do last time it froze). On restart everything seemed ok, but I lost my channel setup, so proceded to redo them, starting with an auto-preset scan, followed by manual additions with rotor adjustments.

Background: The 2160 is I believe an A model, though the manual doesn't say it, and I'd have to pull it out to look at the back to check. It's hooked up to a Winegard 8200 with a CM 7750 (I think) pre-amp, in the Chicago/South Bend/Kalamazoo/Grand Rapids market. We actually watch stations in 360 degrees of antenna rotation! I have the signal split three ways: One to the 2160, and two others going to digital converter boxes (a Zinwell and a Digital Stream).

Since the unit froze and rebooted, I cannot receive all the stations anymore, though the converter boxes are receiving them "fine". I put "fine" in quotes because at the same time this happened we started experiencing the annual signal degradation in our area that comes with spring and summer. There is something atmospheric that comes every year, even before the leaves come out, when the sun starts moving north and the dismal west-Michigan sky starts to clear up.

The stations that refuse to come in are reading zero signal strength, and the screen is grey. There is no hint of any reception. The missing channels are normally weak, but I normally receive them, and received them just fine the same evening of the screen freeze. (And as I said, the Zinwell especially has no problem; I've checked the tuners side by side, and the point is that this was not an issue in the past.)

Can you offer any explanation or advice?

Thanks.

I was reading in another forum here on AVS that there has been lots of SUNSPOT activity this week. I know "cosmic" answers aren't always helpful, but in this case, it may actually be relevant. Apparently there were some big ones. (cue Twilight zone music... )
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post #8744 of 26013 Old 03-19-2010, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weballoon View Post

I am new so please excuse my ignorance. I just recieved a H2160MW9A that I purchased, in large part because of the discussion on this forum. Thanks to all for making my decision rather easy.

However, I have a probelm, I think. My audio is fine when listening directly to my TV but when I switch to Line L1 and set the source to the same TV station the audio is very very muted (almost not there).

I have conneted the H2160 directly to the incoming cable from the cable provider and then I have an cable connecting the H2160 directly to my TV. I also have video and audio (yellow, red and white) running from the output of the 2160 to the inout on the back of my TV. I have no other connections. I no my cables and the TV input jacks are fine because I coneected a DVD player to my TV and the audio level is normal.

Do I have a problem? Thanks in advance.



Re audio being muted, I had that on a DVD player recently and discovered that the settings for the individual tv port into which it was going were messed up. You've said you've tried the same input on the tv with other devices, but if you have another input option, try that too, just to see if that might be the cause.

Also, check the maggy settings for audio -- you may want to try other settings before writing off the machine. For example, GENERAL SETTINGS PLAYBACK DISC audio (dynamic range control (mine seems better with this OFF), PCM (if you're using 96, try 48, or vice versa), dolby Digital (I have mine set to PCM)

Do you have the same audio problem when playing back from HD or just when using Discs? If both, maybe try an HDMI cable and adjust HDMI audio settings accordingly. If only disc -- sometimes commercial discs have surprisingly low audio -- is it happening on ALL playback?


ALso, check the cables, make sure the L1 audio cables are pushed in fully. And, while you're at it, try a different set of audio cables, or HDMI
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post #8745 of 26013 Old 03-19-2010, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by artwire View Post

I was reading in another forum here on AVS that there has been lots of SUNSPOT activity this week. I know "cosmic" answers aren't always helpful, but in this case, it may actually be relevant. Apparently there were some big ones. (cue Twilight zone music... )

Thanks, that question did arise in my mind, and it's one of those things I keep tabs on somewhat. The sun has been unusually quiet recently, so maybe it's acting up again...
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post #8746 of 26013 Old 03-19-2010, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by freqdomain View Post

Thanks, that question did arise in my mind, and it's one of those things I keep tabs on somewhat. The sun has been unusually quiet recently, so maybe it's acting up again...

It is my understanding that it isn't so much sunspot activity, but the position of the sun in the sky that occurs in spring and fall in relation to the position of the satellite feeding the signal? But I only know enough to be dangerous.
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post #8747 of 26013 Old 03-19-2010, 01:55 PM
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It is my understanding that it isn't so much sunspot activity, but the position of the sun in the sky that occurs in spring and fall in relation to the position of the satellite feeding the signal? But I only know enough to be dangerous.

That's quite true. I used to get letters from Comcast that there will be a service degration about 2pm (PDT) years ago. I doubt that it would affect local OTA. A big solar flare? Possibly but that would make the news.
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post #8748 of 26013 Old 03-19-2010, 02:04 PM
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That's quite true. I used to get letters from Comcast that there will be a service degration about 2pm (PDT) years ago. I doubt that it would affect local OTA. I big solar flair? Possibly but that would make the news.

Those conditions could also affect local OTA stations' network satellite feeds.

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post #8749 of 26013 Old 03-19-2010, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by bodhi78 View Post

works like a champ! what I like the most is all Transport buttons on the DVD-selected machine are disable, especially the Record button. But I noticed that if it's the 2160A then live buffering is still going, have to test it again tomorrow.

yes, I tried it quickly this am and for playing recorded stuff on machine 1 this is great. Guess it works for recording from only one machine too (I haven't gotten that far)....if so, that's wonderful. I was surprised to see the channel was still showing and (presumably) live buffering when I switched the tv back to see what was happening on Maggie 2160A#2 , but regardless-- this definitely helps with the Battle of the Remotes. Every little bit of 'separation' helps. Will try it again tonight and see if I can get a more coherent understanding of what the DVD setting on #2 is actually doing. As long as timer recordings aren't affected, and you can still hit "record" without duplicating, this will be a big help --
Thanks, Wajo!
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post #8750 of 26013 Old 03-19-2010, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by freqdomain View Post

Thanks, that question did arise in my mind, and it's one of those things I keep tabs on somewhat. The sun has been unusually quiet recently, so maybe it's acting up again...

was trying to retrace my steps to find the article I read yesterday, which seems to have blipped away, but I did see another article re time warner cable (I had wrongly assumed it was only OTA and satellite that would be affected, but it makes sense, since the cable co probably gets it from the satellite anyway:


The orbital position of the sun is interfering with the satellite signals Time Warner Cable and other providers use to provide television programming.

Solar flares, or sunspots, are eruptions of gases on the surface of the sun that end up causing service interruptions for customers twice a year, based on the alignment of the sun and satellites, Time Warner Cable said.

The interruptions range from one to five minutes on a number of channels, the company said, during which the picture on the customer's TV can go entirely black.

This solar interference occurs every February/March and September/October, resulting in the degradation or loss of satellite signal for these short periods of time each day for about two or three weeks, according to the cable company.

"When there are solar flares, or sunspots, it creates a radio signal or frequency that conflicts with the signal that we're supposed to be receiving from the satellite provider," Time Warner Cable spokesman Jeff Unaitis said.

The issue began here around Feb. 25 and is expected to end soon, he said.
The interference is an inherent part of satellite operations and is not caused by any internal issues at the cable company.

Sunspots affect not only Time Warner Cable but others, such as the Dish Network and Directtv, Unaitis said.
"I apologize for the inconvenience, but it is the heavens at work," he said. "It's a reminder that as far as technology has progressed we're still at the mercy of forces in the universe."

Time Warner Cable does not disclose how many customers it has in the region for proprietary reasons, he said.
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post #8751 of 26013 Old 03-19-2010, 04:46 PM - Thread Starter
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yes, I tried it quickly this am and for playing recorded stuff on machine 1 this is great. Guess it works for recording from only one machine too (I haven't gotten that far)....if so, that's wonderful. I was surprised to see the channel was still showing and (presumably) live buffering when I switched the tv back to see what was happening on Maggie 2160A#2 , but regardless-- this definitely helps with the Battle of the Remotes. Every little bit of 'separation' helps. Will try it again tonight and see if I can get a more coherent understanding of what the DVD setting on #2 is actually doing. As long as timer recordings aren't affected, and you can still hit "record" without duplicating, this will be a big help --
Thanks, Wajo!

Thanks for mentioning Recording to the HDD, which made me realize the DVD-set procedure will work for that, as well as playing HDD titles... I couldn't think of any reason why it wouldn't!... changed the procedure to include Recording.
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post #8752 of 26013 Old 03-19-2010, 06:28 PM
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Don't remember seeing this asked and a quick search didn't turn up a solution.

Comcrap, er Xfinity, is bringing me the "world of more". They encrypted the clear QAM channels except for OTA and a couple of information/infomercial channels. They did this before they started pulling the analog signals.

So now they've started pulling the analogs and pretty much except for the OTAs, the analogs will be gone within a month. Here's my question:

Is there any way to convert the RF only output of the DTAs to a different signal to feed into L1 or L2 inputs? I'd like to get some minor flexibility with being able to shift from whatever I set the DTA to which only outputs RF and the clear QAM OTAs. i.e. RF out to line level A/V in

Thanks
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post #8753 of 26013 Old 03-19-2010, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by rec630 View Post

Don't remember seeing this asked and a quick search didn't turn up a solution.

Comcrap, er Xfinity, is bringing me the "world of more". They encrypted the clear QAM channels except for OTA and a couple of information/infomercial channels. They did this before they started pulling the analog signals.

So now they've started pulling the analogs and pretty much except for the OTAs, the analogs will be gone within a month. Here's my question:

Is there any way to convert the RF only output of the DTAs to a different signal to feed into L1 or L2 inputs? I'd like to get some minor flexibility with being able to shift from whatever I set the DTA to which only outputs RF and the clear QAM OTAs. i.e. RF out to line level A/V in

Thanks

I dont have a DTA converter box from the cable co, but since it's converting a digital to analog signal, it seems it would be similar to the process we were using with CECBs for OTA digital reception. To do that, I used to run the antenna out from the converter box into an old VCR or DVD recorder, then use line out from that to connect where I wanted it L 1, L2, etc WOuldn't that work in your set up , too?
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post #8754 of 26013 Old 03-19-2010, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rec630 View Post

Don't remember seeing this asked and a quick search didn't turn up a solution.

Comcrap, er Xfinity, is bringing me the "world of more". They encrypted the clear QAM channels except for OTA and a couple of information/infomercial channels. They did this before they started pulling the analog signals.

So now they've started pulling the analogs and pretty much except for the OTAs, the analogs will be gone within a month. Here's my question:

Is there any way to convert the RF only output of the DTAs to a different signal to feed into L1 or L2 inputs? I'd like to get some minor flexibility with being able to shift from whatever I set the DTA to which only outputs RF and the clear QAM OTAs. i.e. RF out to line level A/V in

Thanks

if you have an old VCR laying around: DTA RF out to VCR RF in, VCR composite out to L1 in
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post #8755 of 26013 Old 03-19-2010, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rec630 View Post

Don't remember seeing this asked and a quick search didn't turn up a solution.

Comcrap, er Xfinity, is bringing me the "world of more". They encrypted the clear QAM channels except for OTA and a couple of information/infomercial channels. They did this before they started pulling the analog signals.

So now they've started pulling the analogs and pretty much except for the OTAs, the analogs will be gone within a month. Here's my question:

Is there any way to convert the RF only output of the DTAs to a different signal to feed into L1 or L2 inputs? I'd like to get some minor flexibility with being able to shift from whatever I set the DTA to which only outputs RF and the clear QAM OTAs. i.e. RF out to line level A/V in

Thanks

I guess you are certain that encryption is being used. I had that for a while, but my CC dropped it and lets things through in 480i. If your goal is to take the raw cable RF and convert it to something other than RF channel 3/4, or take the DTA out and make it something better, there are SD/HD tuners still being sold. I have some Samsung DTB-H260F and some Digiwave DTV5000HD (no analog input). I prefer the Digiwave. Both have component outputs. Check them out on eBay. I use one Digiwave to feed HD to a Toshiba RX50 (analog only tuner)and one to feed a Panasonic EZ28K (digital tuner fails with my cable signal). They are crude but I don't try to surf channels with them, only do recordings. The Samsung is a crap shoot on quality of the audio. I have all 70 analog channels disabled on my H2160. I have a DTA but have never used it. Hope this helps.
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post #8756 of 26013 Old 03-19-2010, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rec630 View Post

Is there any way to convert the RF only output of the DTAs to a different signal to feed into L1 or L2 inputs? I'd like to get some minor flexibility with being able to shift from whatever I set the DTA to which only outputs RF and the clear QAM OTAs. i.e. RF out to line level A/V in

Thanks

A RF modulator (around $20) or an old VCR will serve that purpose.

A more full-featured Comcast converter box will have more output options.

The entry level Motorola DCT700 converter box has a RF and composite output. Moving up the Motorola line adds S-Video and component output and HD converter boxes add a HDMI output.

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post #8757 of 26013 Old 03-19-2010, 10:20 PM
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Thanks all.

I didn't think about using a VCR. Not too pretty of a solution but it would work. Just contemplating some way to reclaim some of my previous time shifting capabilities. I've got a RNG110 STB that I'm feeding into TV & L1, but I've got the 2 free DTAs and was considering how to feed it into L2 or perhaps feed the other recorder without limiting it to Ch 3/4 only. I haven't seen any modulators that go from RF to AV, just the other way around.

And yes, CC stopped the clear QAM channels before beginning to pull the analogs. It had plenty of discussion on my local comcast forum. They've now pretty much lost any advantage they had for me over Sat or Uverse unless I decide to go for something like a Tivo or Moxi with cable cards.
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post #8758 of 26013 Old 03-19-2010, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by artwire View Post

Re audio being muted, I had that on a DVD player recently and discovered that the settings for the individual tv port into which it was going were messed up. You've said you've tried the same input on the tv with other devices, but if you have another input option, try that too, just to see if that might be the cause.

Also, check the maggy settings for audio -- you may want to try other settings before writing off the machine. For example, GENERAL SETTINGS PLAYBACK DISC audio (dynamic range control (mine seems better with this OFF), PCM (if you're using 96, try 48, or vice versa), dolby Digital (I have mine set to PCM)

Do you have the same audio problem when playing back from HD or just when using Discs? If both, maybe try an HDMI cable and adjust HDMI audio settings accordingly. If only disc -- sometimes commercial discs have surprisingly low audio -- is it happening on ALL playback?


ALso, check the cables, make sure the L1 audio cables are pushed in fully. And, while you're at it, try a different set of audio cables, or HDMI

ARTWIRE, Thanks for the suggestions I will give it a try. I did some more testing. The audio is very muted when any signal is passed thru the H2160. This includes a signal from my TV, a dvd played the the H2160s DVD player or playing a recorded program on the HDD. I was able to record a TV show and a movie to a DVD using the built in DVD and when I play the recorded DVD on another DVD player connected to my TV using the same cable it audio is just fine. So unless one of your suggestion works, it seems to be there is something wrong with the output signal leaving the H2160. Unless I am missing something.
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post #8759 of 26013 Old 03-19-2010, 11:48 PM
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ARTWIRE, Thanks for the suggestions I will give it a try. I did some more testing. The audio is very muted when any signal is passed thru the H2160. This includes a signal from my TV, a dvd played the the H2160s DVD player or playing a recorded program on the HDD. I was able to record a TV show and a movie to a DVD using the built in DVD and when I play the recorded DVD on another DVD player connected to my TV using the same cable it audio is just fine. So unless one of your suggestion works, it seems to be there is something wrong with the output signal leaving the H2160. Unless I am missing something.
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post #8760 of 26013 Old 03-20-2010, 12:05 AM
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wajo, thanks for the response. As to whether I have an analog or digital signal coming in. I have only basic cable and don't pay for the upgrade to digital. WHILE I suppose its possible I am getting a digital signal, it doesn't seem likely since the cable company typically tries to extract all they can for subscribers. Getting someting for free, well it is just not done. How would I know if the signal was digital?
Anyway, as I told Artwire. I can record on to the DVD internal to the H2160 and then play back the DVD using another DVD player connected to my TV using the same cable and the audio is just fine. Seems like this weighs heavy for bad audio output signal from the H2160 wouldn't you say?
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