Magnavox 557, 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 324 - AVS Forum
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post #9691 of 25743 Old 06-10-2010, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

With only two 2160A's in line like you have, it might be pretty easy to operate just one by setting the other on the DVD drive via the front button?

That's great to know!. Thanks!!! I had rigged a couple shields to cover the infrared sensor window on respective units so that I could operate one while covering the other. Your method is much better.
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post #9692 of 25743 Old 06-10-2010, 02:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Controlling Multiple Units of Same Brand / Manufacturer

If you have a single recorder, no problem for you. If you have one Philips and one Magnavox recorder, no problem for you either since neither remote will operate the other brand.

If you have multiple recorders or OTHER devices mfgd by Funai (Magnavox, Toshiba, Sylvania, Emerson, Symphonic et al), you've got a problem since there's no known "coding" system for our DVDRs, and each brand has MULTIPLE buttons that turn the units on. For us, those buttons are Standby/On, PLAY and Open/Close. This means you can't use the remote to turn just one recorder on and PLAY the titles on that unit's HDD... something we do all the time... without turning the other recorders (and other devices?) on and operating them all, simultaneously and blindly!

Fortunately, there are at least 4 ways to isolate a specific machine (the "target" unit) in a multi-unit system of Funai-built devices:

1. KLUGE (Kapturer of Latent User Guidance Energy)

Add a KLUGE over the sensor window of non-target unit(s).

A THICK greeting card is perfect for a poor-man's KLUGE... it's already creased and folded. Mine, shown below, turned out to be OK for long-distance use but the IR burned through at close range (~3-4 ft) when doing some tests.

Test YOUR (thicker) Kluges at close range to make sure the IR can't burn through them. If not thick enough, you can be making unintended changes to non-target machines, like I did.

KLUGEs should also be large enough to cover the display window between the buttons... 4" wide x at least 6" long, with 2+" of the 6" folded over the sensor and the remaining 4" length on the top side of the fold where more is better for stability. Overall size should be easy to handle, as well. We found full-panel coverage necessary here AFTER some smaller ones got off-kilter just enough to allow IR to "leak" in and we ended up deleting some titles we didn't intend to.

Philips units have sharp edges and straight faces, making it easy to keep them in place and flush on the glass. However, Mag units have rounded edges and sloping faces, requiring some longer Kluge dimensions.

If your stack is above your TV and you've got Mags, like me, you'll be shooting upwards with the remote. If so, make sure you've got enough length on the front (IR) side to go below the bottom of the Mag's glass, and that they fit flush against the glass... you don't want IR bouncing off the unit below up into the sensor area.

Heed this story of disaster if you operate one unit with KLUGE leaking or missing from other units!

These are my original greeting-card Kluges that IR burned thru at close range:



Here's DALET75's Kluge-build with laminated layers of manila folder and aluminum foil. He made them 5" wide, like mine, but 10½" long so they stayed in place better on the sloping face of the Mags (2½" folded over sensor and 8" on top).

Kansas_Tom (and now, me too) uses durable "Kansas Kluges" cut from black, molded-plastic VHS-tape cases, with lots of length on front, as shown below. They block IR at close range and look good while doing it! Notes:(1) High-class feet too, which raise units up and allow extra length on IR side. He made the feet from 2X2 pieces of wood 1/2" high and wrapped the sides with black contact paper. (2) Feet are not necessary since air flow is side>back and these DVDRs don't run hot anyway, based on lots of user experience and one 34-hour back-to-back marathon as noted in last para. here.



2. NextGen 413 or 433MHz IR>RF>IR Remote Range Extender, $50

Uses an RF transmitter that replaces one battery in one of your OEM remotes. That remote then sends an RF signal to the NextGen receiver on or next to your DVDR. The receiver has an IR blaster that you place over the DVDR sensor so only the signal from the RF remote is seen by that DVDR. Since RF is NOT line-of-sight like our remotes, this unit makes one DVDR respond from anywhere in your house, even if it's hidden in a cabinet. Not sure if emitter is large enough to cover entire DVDR sensor but, if not, just cover "exposed" edges with black tape?

Important Note - Designed for one unit in remote or covered location. Will work for two same-brand units but will also require two remotes.
This device converts an existing IR remote to RF rather than IR, so it won't work on a 2nd unprotected unit in the same place. You'll end up needing two remotes: one for conversion to RF and one normal remote for a 2nd unit. Also, the DVDR with the RF receiver will require careful blocking of the sensor so the normal IR remote doesn't leak into it when operating the IR-controlled unit. You can buy extra transmitters and receivers but that's only if you want to control multiple units at the same time, not normally what we want to do.

3. Separation

For the OEM remote, separate same-brand machines by several feet either sideways or up and down. Test your remote and see how well it works sideways vs up/down and place units and point remote accordingly.

4. Drive Isolation

If you set the target unit on HDD drive and non-target units on DVD drive, with no DVD loaded, you can operate only the target unit's HDD and all that's on it at will. The non-target units will turn on but be non-responsive to all playback commands... they'll still do timer recordings but nothing else you need to worry about while playing the target unit, just don't do any Setup or other menu ops on the target unit. The external HDD/DVD buttons on the Mags make them easier than the Philips to isolate the machine you want to use.

This method is not recommended for multiple users, especially youngsters, in the house?


Last edited by wajo; 06-18-2014 at 12:49 PM.
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post #9693 of 25743 Old 06-10-2010, 03:00 PM
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wajo, you never cease to amaze with your expertise, advice, info, help, skills, etc, etc. You are definitely the Honcho!!!
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post #9694 of 25743 Old 06-10-2010, 04:52 PM
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From wajo's superlative Help files
Quote:


MPORTANT NOTES

1. If you notice that your 2160/A doesn't always start AR immediately on power-up, and you regularly use AR and rely on it, make sure you're on the HDD drive after startup, then press PAUSE after ~10-sec or so to check the AR status. If the AR menu does not appear, change channels to activate the buffer. If AR has started and the AR menu is on screen, press STOP to go back to live TV, then get rid of the menu with the DISPLAY button.

We've established that, for some, AR doesn't automatically start when the 2160A is first turned on. You must either change the channel, or press Pause to activate it. Well I've just noticed that AR will also start if you go into the Titles menu (after turning unit on with no channel changes) and select a recorded program and play it.

I turned mine on, and noted that AR wasn't activated, and proceeded to the Title menu to playback a recording. After the program was over, it went back to Live TV, and I saw that AR had been recording on the ch it was left on, during program playback.

So when you're playing back a title, you may want to turn the ch to something interesting that you may want to watch later...or turn the 2160 to L3 to prevent any buffering at all, while you're watching something on the hdd.

Dazed and confused over high tech.

Sigh...Concrap. The Internet Overlord Cometh
They're not com-tastic!
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post #9695 of 25743 Old 06-11-2010, 12:20 AM
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First time poster, since up 'till now I haven't had anything to post about. I don't recall anyone stating that they actually have a 513H so I'm pleased to say that I'm the new owner of two 513H units, both with manufacture date tags showing May 2010.

I'm brand new to the Funai units. I decided to wait for the newer unit in the hopes that some of the annoying software glitches in earlier units would be fixed. I paid full boat at Wallyworld and had them shipped to the store.

I compared the cost to buying a couple of refurb 2160s from J&R and then upgrading the hard drives and the cost saving wasn't enough to justify it for me, particularly when I would immediately have to apply the firmware patch.

My previous DVDR experience was with a couple of Panasonic units. I was happy with them, but one died and I decided I should get another DVDR before the species disappeared entirely. The current Panasonic units have dreadful reviews so I jumped ship.

BTW, Wajo should be getting a commission from Funai and Wal-Mart for his support and troubleshooting of their hardware.

I'd like to say that I've given the 513H a thorough workout but I really haven't. I plugged it in, scanned the channels (all analog cable here) and started to read the rather large manual with remote in hand. It's fairly clear, but reads like it was written by a non-native English speaker. I'm a bit of a techie so manuals don't scare me too much.

The factory default for the auto clock is "off", so that wasn't an issue. We don't have any time signals available to us anyway. The DST setting include two settings for the various start/ends of DST, but I just set it to OFF because I don't trust them. I make it a habit of setting the clock 30 seconds ahead of real time and then recording for one minute past the ending time to make sure I get both ends of the program. With the HDD I might change that habit. I keep the unit plugged into a UPS so I don't worry about power failures, but I really think that a $300 unit should have a backup battery for the clock.

I was curious to see if the finalize error problem had been eliminated. I'm happy to say that I recorded a movie to the HDD, changed the title, edited out the commercials in the unit, and dubbed it to DVD+R via the high speed method. 90 minutes recorded at SP took about 15 minutes to burn to T-Y 8X DVD+R media. Finalizing worked flawlessly *with* a timer program scheduled and an analog channel set so apparently that bug is gone!

I don't really perceive anything very much different about this unit compared to the discussions of the 2160.

Things I like about the 513H (mostly compared to my older Panasonics):
* HDD, don't know how I lived without that.
* High speed dubbing, ditto.
* Ability to edit out segments and divide titles on the HDD.
* Much easier to key in title text.
* Progress displays are more informative.
* This forum

Things I don't like about the 513H (again, mostly compared to the Panasonics)
* Fit and Finish are a bit cruder. Remote feels cheaper.
* No ability to set titles for programs to be recorded. You have to wait until after they record. This will be sorely missed for recurrent programming.
* No title memories. This was really convenient for titling multi-part series.
* No ability to set the thumbnail image (or at least I haven't found it yet)
* No ability to set the disk to skip the menu screen and go to autoplay.
* Title screen only shows three titles. (Panasonic showed 8)
* That danged empty title. Yes, I've read the work-around, but I'm loathe to put wear and tear on that laser diode filling up disks just to get rid of something that was not an issue at all on the Pannys. Would have it killed Funai to just suppress it when they generate the DVD menus?

Anyway, I'm happy to be able to be able to participate now! Any questions, ask away!
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post #9696 of 25743 Old 06-11-2010, 05:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Georgesl View Post

First time poster, since up 'till now I haven't had anything to post about. I don't recall anyone stating that they actually have a 513H so I'm pleased to say that I'm the new owner of two 513H units, both with manufacture date tags showing May 2010.

I'd like to say that I've given the 513H a thorough workout but I really haven't. I plugged it in, scanned the channels (all analog cable here) and started to read the rather large manual with remote in hand. It's fairly clear, but reads like it was written by a non-native English speaker. I'm a bit of a techie so manuals don't scare me too much.


Anyway, I'm happy to be able to be able to participate now! Any questions, ask away!

Wonderful. Thanks for the report. Question: has Walmart asked for a review yet? Bigger question: No digital channels? That's odd. Who is your cable company and where are you located (zip code is ok).
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post #9697 of 25743 Old 06-11-2010, 07:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Georgesl View Post

First time poster, since up 'till now I haven't had anything to post about. I don't recall anyone stating that they actually have a 513H so I'm pleased to say that I'm the new owner of two 513H units, both with manufacture date tags showing May 2010.

Fantastic! Thanks for posting on your new toys and offering to help with questions.

As you get acquainted with the new 513, I'd like to hear if you notice anything different, besides the Auto Clock default is OFF now, compared to the existing help files... things I might need to add or change. Sort of an ongoing project... I'm thinking there might not be any other differences worthy of special note?

I've added a link to your 1st post on the "main" 513 page for people wanting to get some first-hand info on the new model.

It would be great if you could update your post above (by number or date?) with any additional overall review findings, using the "Edit" function. That way, only future questions and your answers would be spread out among all the other posts.

Again, thanks for posting!
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post #9698 of 25743 Old 06-11-2010, 07:43 AM
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Thanks for sharing your 513 impressions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Georgesl View Post

I keep the unit plugged into a UPS so I don't worry about power failures, but I really think that a $300 unit should have a backup battery for the clock.

I have trouble with this.... i never really asked, but this is an issue for me, i live in Guatemala, and while the power is decent here, when we have thunderstorm we have some power outages here and there. In my work i travel all week (except weekend), i will not be back at all till i finish the week. By what what you posted, im assuming a simple cut of power will lose all the clock and scheduled recording

I'm not an owner yet (still on the mail), but just wondering what do you guys do to prevent this? a cheap ups? im not planing on watching recordings without power, just something that will ensure that i don't lose the programing that scheduled to be recorded.

I currently just use a power conditioner for my ht setup, panamax 5100, its old but has worked really well, nothing has died in 8 years, but it doesn't have any backup battery.... i wasn't planing on changing it, but i might depending on what you guys recommend me. I was checking and browsing and found APC H15BLK, but i think a cheap computer ups might work, so just looking for opinions or recommendations to what do you guys use on your 2160/513 toward maintaining the clock/programing.
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post #9699 of 25743 Old 06-11-2010, 09:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abula View Post

I currently just use a power conditioner for my ht setup, panamax 5100, its old but has worked really well, nothing has died in 8 years, but it doesn't have any backup battery.... i wasn't planing on changing it, but i might depending on what you guys recommend me. I was checking and browsing and found APC H15BLK, but i think a cheap computer ups might work, so just looking for opinions or recommendations to what do you guys use on your 2160/513 toward maintaining the clock/programing.

That unit appears to cost $350-$460 other places, so it seems to be a good deal and perfect for ALL equipment in a HT (based on reviews). It prob. even has full sine wave power, where the cheap computer ones have a squared wave, which some discussions have said might not be the best for our equipment... I saw an expert article or two explaining this, with lots of boo-bird comments following, so YMMV!
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post #9700 of 25743 Old 06-11-2010, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

That unit appears to cost $350-$460 other places, so it seems to be a good deal and perfect for ALL equipment in a HT (based on reviews). It prob. even has full sine wave power, where the cheap computer ones have a squared wave, which some discussions have said might not be the best for our equipment... I saw an expert article or two explaining this, with lots of boo-bird comments following, so YMMV!

thx for the opinion... now i was reading the amazon reviews, and some have complaints about the coax cable and channels not displaying after passing thru the unit... So there is a risk that if i go for the battery my cable channels wont be recorded... lol, this is probably not for all, but still. Now im not sure what to do, i might just buy a cheap ups, like APC Back-UPS ES 450VA, and just place it after the panamax... decisions..... , this hdd recorder is hurting my wallet... but i love buying stuff, just dislike when it doesnt work.
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post #9701 of 25743 Old 06-11-2010, 09:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abula View Post

thx for the opinion... now i was reading the amazon reviews, and some have complaints about the coax cable and channels not displaying after passing thru the unit... So there is a risk that if i go for the battery my cable channels wont be recorded... lol, this is probably not for all, but still. Now im not sure what to do, i might just buy a cheap ups, like APC Back-UPS ES 450VA, and just place it after the panamax... decisions..... , this hdd recorder is hurting my wallet... but i love buying stuff, just dislike when it doesnt work.

People running their coax thru a surge suppressor of any kind sometimes have problems with the picture, but losing channels could also just mean that the suppressor or UPS circuit is losing signal strength just enough for digital channels to drop off the "digital cliff," which is described here.

It doesn't take much to drop a digital signal that's already on the low side of power.

I'm thinking an amp just before the UPS might alleviate this problem, if it occurs at all in your system.
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post #9702 of 25743 Old 06-11-2010, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abula View Post

Thanks for sharing your 513 impressions.

By what what you posted, im assuming a simple cut of power will lose all the clock and scheduled recording
.


Wajo,

Is this true??
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post #9703 of 25743 Old 06-11-2010, 10:09 AM
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Thanks wajo, ill consider that, and im sorry for waisting your time some.... i didnt read that this version dont have a battery.... i was with so many open pages that i didnt see its APC 12-Outlet J-Type Power Conditioner with Battery Backup and thats really out of my budget, so the cheap ups will have to work. But im wondering so many owners here of 2160/513, what do you guys use to keep your time/schedules from erasing on power outages / small surges.
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post #9704 of 25743 Old 06-11-2010, 10:39 AM - Thread Starter
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I've "institutionalized" the use of Auto Clock to increase power-backup time with a new section in the Settings help file.

Here's that new section.

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post #9705 of 25743 Old 06-11-2010, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abula View Post

But im wondering so many owners here of 2160/513, what do you guys use to keep your time/schedules from erasing on power outages / small surges.

An inexpensive UPS should be more than adequate for this purpose (I use one myself without any issues).

Almost all companies who produce "Home Theater" UPS devices include at least one which uses the square wave or simulated sine wave instead of a true sine wave output. While I don't deny that a true sine wave is best, if the simulated waveform were harmful or destructive to our equipment, I doubt that they would produce such a unit and label it for "Home Theater" use as that would leave them open to all kinds of "legal issues" or litigation.

Having said that, the true purpose of a UPS device is to get you over those short power events, or to permit you time to do an orderly shutdown of your equipment (such as allowing you to turn off your projector and have power for the cooling fan to run to keep it from frying the bulb). A UPS is not meant to allow you to sit down and watch the full Star Wars saga (all 6 episodes), while running on battery. (Too many people seem to that this is what the battery backup is for!)

If you have other devices plugged into the UPS and they are shutdown (powered off), or if the dvr is the only device plugged into the UPS then there should be adequate capacity (with most UPS units) to allow the 2160/513 to remain powered and thus keep your scheduled recordings intact throughout some even more "extended" outages.
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post #9706 of 25743 Old 06-11-2010, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob_Collins View Post

An inexpensive UPS should be more than adequate for this purpose (I use one myself without any issues).

Almost all companies who produce "Home Theater" UPS devices include at least one which uses the square wave or simulated sine wave instead of a true sine wave output. While I don't deny that a true sine wave is best, if the simulated waveform were harmful or destructive to our equipment, I doubt that they would produce such a unit and label it for "Home Theater" use as that would leave them open to all kinds of "legal issues" or litigation.

Having said that, the true purpose of a UPS device is to get you over those short power events, or to permit you time to do an orderly shutdown of your equipment (such as allowing you to turn off your projector and have power for the cooling fan to run to keep it from frying the bulb). A UPS is not meant to allow you to sit down and watch the full Star Wars saga (all 6 episodes), while running on battery. (Too many people seem to that this is what the battery backup is for!)

If you have other devices plugged into the UPS and they are shutdown (powered off), or if the dvr is the only device plugged into the UPS then there should be adequate capacity (with most UPS units) to allow the 2160/513 to remain powered and thus keep your scheduled recordings intact throughout some even more "extended" outages.

So let's talk power. One other gift of a UPS is to isolate your equipment from power fluxuations. All my power, phone and cable lines are above ground. Isn't that scary? I have one 'Shack' UPS for my computer and one older APC Smart-UPS for my bedroom TV & DVR. For my primary entertainment system I have a 1600VA APC BackUPS with extra battery battery pack. Living out in the sticks I get a lot of failures and my electric company has said that it will keep power off for 3 to 6 minutes just to be sure the lines are good. So, for a power draw of about 400 watts just to watch TV I get 90 minutes of backup. With everything turned off it could last a long, long time. I sort of converted my house into an RV a few years ago. My latest outage was 12 hours and I had zero ill effects. My 2160 performed a 60 minute recording during that outage. I also have a 1500w inverter for my heat and fridge. The battery for that inverter weighs 70 pounds. After living through the California blackouts I got just a little nutty about power. Ok, maybe a lot nutty. I have solar powered motion sensor outside lighting too.
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post #9707 of 25743 Old 06-11-2010, 04:00 PM
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I put a bid in for the MDR513H that started at .01 dollars. Ebay now tells me the item is withdrawn. This is displayed for the last bid:

Cancelled: US $200.00
Explanation: The seller ended the listing early and cancelled all bids. Bid: Jun-11-10 05:00:25 PDT
Cancelled: Jun-11-10 10:34:52 PDT


Somebody got scared? Interesting. I wonder which border the seller is headed to?
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post #9708 of 25743 Old 06-11-2010, 04:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

So let's talk power. One other gift of a UPS is to isolate your equipment from power fluxuations.

Yes, this can be an added benefit of a UPS but it is not the primary purpose of a UPS as I mentioned above. The UPS is meant to get you through those brownout or complete blackout conditions (and some other major fluctuations), and can also protect you against some over-voltage conditions, but it is primarily meant to provide power when no input power is present. Also, MOST UPS designs out there do not provide true isolation as you are actually running on utility power until the UPS detects an event which triggers it to switch to battery power.

In a situation like yours where everything is above ground, a good whole house surge suppression filter/system, backed up with a power conditioner to be sure your power feed to the equipment is clean/safe and/or a UPS for battery powered runtime during the above mentioned types of events would be best (although possibly a bit pricey).

Just my $0.02!
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post #9709 of 25743 Old 06-11-2010, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Georgesl View Post

...I'd like to say that I've given the 513H a thorough workout but I really haven't. I plugged it in, scanned the channels (all analog cable here)...

Where do you live and who's the cable company?

I want to move there.
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post #9710 of 25743 Old 06-11-2010, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by gastrof View Post

Where do you live and who's the cable company?

I want to move there.

You can move to an area served by Cox Cable and have analog service until at least 2012.

From the Cox digital transition FAQ.
Cox FAQ
"Cox subscribers will not need to take any action to receive digital programming. For at least three years after this deadline, Cox will continue to offer analog broadcast signals to customers who do not receive Cox's digital services."
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post #9711 of 25743 Old 06-12-2010, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gastrof View Post

Where do you live and who's the cable company?

I want to move there.

I asked first. I wonder if you scan for only analog, will the 2160/513 also add digital channels if it finds them?

You really want to move someplace without 1080i? And I thought I was in the middle of nowhere.
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post #9712 of 25743 Old 06-12-2010, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

I asked first. I wonder if you scan for only analog, will the 2160/513 also add digital channels if it finds them?

You really want to move someplace without 1080i? And I thought I was in the middle of nowhere.


I was wondering if the new machine still has the dual (analog/digital) switch for tuning each separately, or was it replaced with a combo tuner?
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post #9713 of 25743 Old 06-12-2010, 09:35 AM - Thread Starter
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post #9714 of 25743 Old 06-12-2010, 09:50 AM
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Another brand new Magnavox MDR513H is being offered on eBay HERE.

Current bid: $0.99
Time left: 2 days, 11 hours
Bid History: 1 bid so far


____________

UPDATE: Bidding closed. Winner paid almost full list-price.
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post #9715 of 25743 Old 06-12-2010, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob_Collins View Post

An inexpensive UPS should be more than adequate for this purpose (I use one myself without any issues).

Almost all companies who produce "Home Theater" UPS devices include at least one which uses the square wave or simulated sine wave instead of a true sine wave output. While I don't deny that a true sine wave is best, if the simulated waveform were harmful or destructive to our equipment, I doubt that they would produce such a unit and label it for "Home Theater" use as that would leave them open to all kinds of "legal issues" or litigation.

Having said that, the true purpose of a UPS device is to get you over those short power events, or to permit you time to do an orderly shutdown of your equipment (such as allowing you to turn off your projector and have power for the cooling fan to run to keep it from frying the bulb). A UPS is not meant to allow you to sit down and watch the full Star Wars saga (all 6 episodes), while running on battery. (Too many people seem to that this is what the battery backup is for!)

If you have other devices plugged into the UPS and they are shutdown (powered off), or if the dvr is the only device plugged into the UPS then there should be adequate capacity (with most UPS units) to allow the 2160/513 to remain powered and thus keep your scheduled recordings intact throughout some even more "extended" outages.

How many years can you get from a UPS until the internal battery needs replacement? Where do you obtain replacements?

Jim
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post #9716 of 25743 Old 06-12-2010, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waldwolf View Post

Another brand new Magnavox MDR513H is being offered on eBay.

I wonder if it will stay listed this time. This is the same one that was pulled earlier.
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post #9717 of 25743 Old 06-12-2010, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLely View Post

How many years can you get from a UPS until the internal battery needs replacement? Where do you obtain replacements?

Jim

Most "Home/Small Office" type UPS units utilize a sealed lead-acid battery. Typical battery life in these units is around 3 - 5 years. Actual life is effected by many factors including overall battery age, number of charges/discharges, enviroment, etc.

Replacements are available directly from the UPS manufacturer as well as many aftermarket suppliers. Keep in mind the batteries used in these units are very heavy, so shipping costs are usually quite high.
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post #9718 of 25743 Old 06-12-2010, 11:53 AM
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Hi all,

Well I have managed to fill up 2160 #2 already - 175 titles in EP - mostly half hour, some one hour program reruns that I like. This unit is in my bedroom - where I use it late night. I set it up with programs that I could watch when there is nothing good on the TV . I have not yet watched the vast majority of these titles. 2160 #1 is not far behind -- only 11 hours left.

When I started looking through my titles to see how I could free up some space, it was not long before frustration began to set in. Most of them have at least a 30 sec lead in before I could ID the actual program. When I tried to use the ff button to skip thru the lead in, I found it does not work in the Title mode. I can see this is going to be a very LONG & tedious process.

Isn't there enough info broadcast with the program for the 2160 to at least ID the basic program name -- such as "Becker" or "The King of Queens". That would help a lot. I don't want to delete any of the titles of these programs - I would like to collect as many episodes of these programs as I can find.

I guess I am going to have to Dub these programs to DVD - and then copy them to my computer. And then come back & delete most of the titles. Too bad there is not a usb port on these units. That would allow me to hook up a usb ext HD - where I could move files around at will. Much faster and more efficient. Have any of you Techno - Geeks out there looked into what it would take to add a usb port to the 2160? Probably not feasible.

A 500 Gig HDD probably would not be enough for what I want to do - although it would help. I really do not want to take that route right now.

I am sure many of you have gone thru this situation yourselves. I am open to suggestions you may have on the best way to attack this problem.

Jer
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post #9719 of 25743 Old 06-12-2010, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JER01 View Post

When I started looking through my titles to see how I could free up some space, it was not long before frustration began to set in. Most of them have at least a 30 sec lead in before I could ID the actual program. When I tried to use the ff button to skip thru the lead in, I found it does not work in the Title mode. I can see this is going to be a very LONG & tedious process.

Just do a quick front cut edit to the point where there is a screen that will identify the recording for you. Start reading here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...count=17#Edit6

"A ROSE BY ANY OTHER NAME WILL SMELL AS SWEET. BUT IT DOES NOT FOLLOW THAT WHATEVER WE CHOOSE TO CALL A ROSE WILL POSSESS THE ROSE'S FRAGRANCE."

--Benjamin Breckinridge Warfield (1917)
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post #9720 of 25743 Old 06-12-2010, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waldwolf View Post

Most "Home/Small Office" type UPS units utilize a sealed lead-acid battery. Typical battery life in these units is around 3 - 5 years. Actual life is effected by many factors including overall battery age, number of charges/discharges, enviroment, etc.

3 - 5 years is quite optimistic in my experience with multiple units. 2 - 3 years is more realistic to what I've seen, and sometimes I've been lucky to get 1 year out of the battery/UPS (All were name brand units (same brand in fact), most were the "SmartUPS" variety which is more expensive and supposed to be better quality).

As to cost, the bigger the unit, the longer the runtime you get, but also the more expensive the battery (sometimes there will be multiple batteries in one UPS), and the heavier the batteries. Sometimes the replacement cost of the batteries is quite close to the cost of a completely new unit, so be cognizant of that when deciding what to do.
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