Magnavox 557, 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 636 - AVS Forum
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post #19051 of 25902 Old 02-20-2012, 06:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

What do you mean, did your 3576 have its time set during all this? If so, that could explain the regular attempts to "turn on" (fan starts and it trys to set the clock).

With clock set now, does it work right?

If none of the above and still no joy, try a Soft Reset.

The time was not set. I had unplugged it several times yesterday while cleaning the spindle, moving it, etc. setting the clock was nota priority since I am planning to unplug it again to replace the DVD drive.
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post #19052 of 25902 Old 02-20-2012, 06:38 AM
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I only have ny 513 for a few days so forgive me if this has been asked and answered. Is there any way that you can see how much space is left on your harddrive.
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post #19053 of 25902 Old 02-20-2012, 06:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joanieq View Post

I only have ny 513 for a few days so forgive me if this has been asked and answered. Is there any way that you can see how much space is left on your harddrive.

In HDD mode press the Rec Mode button on the remote. The remaining time will be displayed in the lower right corner of the screen.

More info on record modes and capacities here.
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post #19054 of 25902 Old 02-20-2012, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joanieq View Post

I only have ny 513 for a few days so forgive me if this has been asked and answered. Is there any way that you can see how much space is left on your harddrive.

In HDD stop mode, press display button twice to see the space available in terms of recording time in the currently set record mode.

Genuine HD via ATSC and BUD satellite DVB.
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post #19055 of 25902 Old 02-20-2012, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ericole View Post

Okay, but I see that to do the SKIP 987 I have to have a -R and a +R disc and I only have +R in the house. blah, have to go to the store.
thanks

Went to Staples today and bought a dozen +R store brand for $5 regular price just to do skip 987 on my 515, with the rest in reserve if needed for my other 3 Funais. K3B reports them as CMC MAG/M01 supporting 4,6,8,12,16X (class 2 quality on digitalfaq).

Also bought:
Memorex +R-DL 15 for $10
50 pack of 100% clear slim jewel cases for $10
100 pack of mixed color slim jewel cases for $20 (regular price) in nice box with handle.

Last I checked, Sam's has 100 packs cheaper, but not in the nice storage box, and not without a Sam's membership card anyway.

Genuine HD via ATSC and BUD satellite DVB.
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post #19056 of 25902 Old 02-20-2012, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post

Went to Staples today and bought a dozen +R store brand for $5 regular price just to do skip 987 on my 515, with the rest in reserve if needed for my other 3 Funais. K3B reports them as CMC MAG/M01 supporting 4,6,8,12,16X (class 2 quality on digitalfaq).

Also bought:
Memorex +R-DL 15 for $10
50 pack of 100% clear slim jewel cases for $10
100 pack of mixed color slim jewel cases for $20 (regular price) in nice box with handle.

Last I checked, Sam's has 100 packs cheaper, but not in the nice storage box, and not without a Sam's membership card anyway.

Good to know they are a good source. Walmart doesn't have that many options. I didn't know I could do DL discs. Can they be used for that test?
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post #19057 of 25902 Old 02-20-2012, 06:26 PM
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None of the recorders here support DL, it would have been nice but they don't. I did try one a long time ago and of course it didn't know what to do with it or record anything on it. They will PLAY DL disk though.
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post #19058 of 25902 Old 02-20-2012, 08:41 PM
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Okay, so I went to replace the apparently faulty DVD drive in my Philips 3576 model. I printed out the directions shown here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...=39#ReplaceDVD

Inside my unit, it looked like the one shown in the first pictures of the above instructions - so far so good.


But when I got to the point of wanting to fully remove the old drive and replace the new one (just the drive, not the board), things went haywire.

First how do you get off the soldered cable and the one down inside the DVD drive (that appears to connect to the lens housing)?

The bottom of my existing drive and the replacement drive look exactly the same in terms of the connections (the drives look the same too). So that image accurately reflects both drives - but I can't figure out how to undo the wires from the old and connect them to the new - and there is nothing about those details on the instructions linked above.

So, if I wanted to avoid that, I'd just replace the drive and the PCB. But again, big problems there. The existing one looks like the one in the first picture of the instructions. Mine is this:


As you can see, I have an HDMI connection at the rear, a DV connection underneath the front (which runs to the front panel on the right side, behind a door), two holes where plastic mounting tabs go through, and two separate connections.

The new one looks like this: which has two holes that will match the plastic mounting tabs, and two connectors that I believe will match the existing connectors. But it doesn't have an HDMI port, nor does it have a connector for the DV wire.

The other side looks like this: Two other connectors here. I haven't removed my existing PCB yet, so I don't know if there are matching cables for those ports or not.

It's also about 1/3 the length of the existing PCB. So, I need some help.

1. Is there an easy way to disconnect all three cables from the bottom of the DVD drive and reconnect them to the new drive?

2. If not that, do I use the new PCB and lose my DV and HDMI connections??

ANY useful help is greatly appreciated.
thanks!!!
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post #19059 of 25902 Old 02-20-2012, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericole View Post

1. Is there an easy way to disconnect all three cables from the bottom of the DVD drive and reconnect them to the new drive?

2. If not that, do I use the new PCB and lose my DV and HDMI connections??

ANY useful help is greatly appreciated.
thanks!!!

REPLACING THE DVD BURNER IN A PHILIPS 3576 (OR 3575) WITH N78F4DUN

ericole....
You should not remove the wafer cables from the bottom of the new (or old) DVD Drive. Instead, remove the two white wafer cables from the DVD side of the original green PCB and replace the old/dead DVD drive with the new DVD drive. These are the white wafer cables on the left in your third photo. Make note of their orientation and location before removing (lettering up/down and front versus back). I think I remember that I did have to release the green PCB from it's white mounting pegs (and silver grounding clip) so that I could get better access to remove the old and insert the new wafer cables to the side/underneath of the original green PCB. Take care not to pull out the wafer cables from the other side of the green PCB (connected to the hard drive etc), while moving the green PCB around. I'm not sure, but I believe that it is important that you should not "smear the contacts". Pull/push the white wafer cables STRAIGHT in and out. No wiggling back and forth. I had a friend remove/insert the white wafer ribbon cables for me, because he had experience with that type of cable/connector.

You should not use the new green PCB (I'm guessing N78F4DUN) on your Philips 3576 (unless you want to lose HDMI out and DV-In, and other possible unknown side effects). I think we both ordered the wrong replacement part # from Funai Parts. Don't worry, the DVD burner is compatible. My N78F4DUN replacement DVD drive (used with my original green PCB on my 3575) has been working fine for about two months (using TY 8x DVD-R's).

Don't forget to unplug your 3576 for 10-15 minutes before working on it. That way you can be sure that the electricity has dissipated from the unit.

Not sure if it will help, but it shouldn't hurt to do a SKIP 987 when you're done swapping DVD drives. Requires both DVD+R and DVD-R blank discs.

Between these notes, and the original DVD Replace instructions, I think you can swap the DVD drives now. I hope that this helps. I also hope that it makes sense. It's late, and I'm pretty tired. I'll check in tomorrow, to see if you need any clarification.


WAJO...
On the DVD Replace instructions, in the DVD Drive Part Numbers table, the 3575/3576/2080 all have part# N78F4DUN, but my original 3575 DVD drive has a sticker on the back (see attached photo below) that says the part# is N78P3DUN. My question is...where did the part# for these models come from (for the Part# Table)? The Service Manual for each model? Did the N78P3DUN get discontinued and replaced by N78F4DUN? I searched this forum and only found one other poster (a couple of years ago) who had a Philips 3575 (or 3576) that also had part# N78P3DUN. Google search came up with nothing (outside this forum). Just wondering.

dfw515
LL

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post #19060 of 25902 Old 02-21-2012, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by dare2be View Post

Thought I should report that I opened one of the new 513's I purchased from Wally World last month, and the first thing I noticed was that the unit did not fit snug in the styrofoam packaging, there was about an inch gap where the unit was able to slide from front to back.

EDIT: So far, everything else checks out.

Well, got my first freeze of the unit last night. I had it on for about 10 minutes getting ready to dub a VHS tape. After I loaded and queued the tape, I went to the 513 to switch record modes. Nothing. Verifying remote issues, I hit the power button on the unit. Nothing. I unplugged for 15 minutes and did a soft-reset hold-power-button-while-plugging-in. Everything was back to normal. Less than a half hour later, same lockup, this time hitting the Source button on the remote. As it was close to bedtime, I unplugged it and went to bed.

This morning, I did the soft reset, and nothing. Display reads --:-- but I never get the power on message. A few minutes of pressing the power button and eject button randomly on the unit yields nothing. I do notice that when I hit the eject button, I can hear the faint whirring of the HDD, but the unit still doesn't respond. I leave it sit for a few minutes, then I hear the fan kick on...still no response to the buttons. Then, when I almost gave up, I hit the eject button on the front one more time, because damn, I still have a disc in the drive, and BAM! it opens immediately and the unit is back to life.

A few more minutes of normal response it appears to freeze again when trying to switch from L1 to L2. Nothing. I then try to switch from DVD mode to HDD mode. Nothing. This time I am getting myself ready for work so I leave it where it is, come back about 30 seconds later and witness it switch from L1 to L2 and then a few seconds later switch from DVD mode to HDD mode. 30+ second delay in my remote commands???

I don't know if any firmware updates (726H to 727V?) would help, but that will be my next step.

(supporting info: no coax attached, all connections are either L1 or L2, no clock set, auto-clock to OFF)
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post #19061 of 25902 Old 02-21-2012, 07:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfw515 View Post

WAJO...
On the DVD Replace instructions, in the DVD Drive Part Numbers table, the 3575/3576/2160 all have part# N78F4DUN, but my original 3575 DVD drive has a sticker on the back (see attached photo below) that says the part# is N78P3DUN. My question is...where did the part# for these models come from (for the Part# Table)? The Service Manual for each model? Did the N78P3DUN get discontinued and replaced by N78F4DUN? I searched this forum and only found one other poster (a couple of years ago) who had a Philips 3575 (or 3576) that also had part# N78P3DUN. Google search came up with nothing (outside this forum). Just wondering.

I'm not sure now where the 357x burner/CBA PN came from exactly. It appears I'll have to revisit Funai parts for correction! Thanks for the heads-up!

Edit: Appears wrong PN is for 2080 (no HDMI or DV).


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post #19062 of 25902 Old 02-21-2012, 08:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dare2be View Post

Well, got my first freeze of the unit last night....

I don't know if any firmware updates (726H to 727V?) would help, but that will be my next step.

(supporting info: no coax attached, all connections are either L1 or L2, no clock set, auto-clock to OFF)

Why no clock set? I don't know how it's operated before w/o a clock... these things are "time-stamping" hogs!?


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post #19063 of 25902 Old 02-21-2012, 08:32 AM - Thread Starter
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New MDR513 at Walmart is now $229.



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post #19064 of 25902 Old 02-21-2012, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Why no clock set? I don't know how it's operated before w/o a clock... these things are "time-stamping" hogs!?

Some clarification might be needed. The front panel time may not display if the internel clock is not set through setup. I am using both units or I would test it on my V2160A. At least it doesn't blink "12:00".
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post #19065 of 25902 Old 02-21-2012, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericole View Post

Okay, so I went to replace the apparently faulty DVD drive in my Philips 3576 model. I printed out the directions shown here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...=39#ReplaceDVD

ANY useful help is greatly appreciated.
thanks!!!

hi ericole -

i think this was answered above, but let me insert my 2 cents...

the other poster was correct...

the replacement DVD burner unit comes with all of its cables intact and attached, and these should remain on the drive. you simply remove the cables for the old drive from the MAIN PCB side, and insert the cables from the replacement drive into the MAIN PCB...

remember that some of these cables are ' push-in ' types, while others have the little flip down tab to lock the cables in place... you cannot simply just push these in. you must lift the flip down tab in order to release and then reseat the cables.

at least 1 of the cables on the DVD burner unit IS slightly different, even though the difference is in traces that do not appear to be used. however, if they ARE used ( if i am mistaken ), then they might be feeding some incorrect signal to the main pcb if they are used on the new drive unit. this is why you should just use the cables that are already attached to the new drive unit.
rgds,
ron g
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post #19066 of 25902 Old 02-21-2012, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLely View Post

Yes, you can try just replacing the board. (Just remember to do skip '987' after installation.) In my special case I put the board in my 513 and the burner in my 2160A.

hi jim

i don't remember now, but did you ever try the original 2160 drive unit with the new main PCB ( or some other main PCB ), where the machine then worked ?

if so, then that would prove that there is something wrong with the original main PCB causing your original problems, eg, an aging component causing the main PCB to not be able to supply sufficient burn power to the optics on the original drive unit. this would be further confirmed by using the original 2160 PCB with a new drive unit and experiencing a failure with that combination...

i'm going to study the main PCB as best i can in order to locate any devices or components that are purely power related. it's logical that since your original 2160 configuration encountered failures, when it once obviously worked, and you then encountered failures with the original 2160 PCB driving at least one of the later model drive units, there must be some PCB component that, due to usage, has weakened or changed value, such that you would experience failures ... i know i'm a tinkerer, here, so if i find something, i'll post further in the hi-tech thread...

rgds,
ron g
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post #19067 of 25902 Old 02-21-2012, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Why no clock set? I don't know how it's operated before w/o a clock... these things are "time-stamping" hogs!?

Based on a tip mentioned early on, since I'm not doing any timer recordings and only recording through line inputs, a time-stamp is meaningless on the titles, as most of my content is old VHS recordings or on-demand streaming. So not setting the clock properly leaves out the time stamp on recorded titles.

If you think setting the clock manually may help with my issues, I can certainly try it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

Some clarification might be needed. The front panel time may not display if the internel clock is not set through setup. I am using both units or I would test it on my V2160A. At least it doesn't blink "12:00".

When the unit is off (both my 3576 and the 513), the display reads --:-- ...neither have their clock set.
When I turn on the 3576 or Mag, "Pwr On" (or similar) briefly shows, and then "Load" while it reads or tries to read the DVD. Once the power cycle is complete, it shows the input source "E1", etc.
The 513 when in its frozen state and off, never leaves the --:-- display when I attempt to turn it on.
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post #19068 of 25902 Old 02-21-2012, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfw515 View Post

REPLACING THE DVD BURNER IN A PHILIPS 3576 (OR 3575) WITH N78F4DUN

ericole....
You should not remove the wafer cables from the bottom of the new (or old) DVD Drive. Instead, remove the two white wafer cables from the DVD side of the original green PCB and replace the old/dead DVD drive with the new DVD drive. These are the white wafer cables on the left in your third photo. Make note of their orientation and location before removing (lettering up/down and front versus back). I think I remember that I did have to release the green PCB from it's white mounting pegs (and silver grounding clip) so that I could get better access to remove the old and insert the new wafer cables to the side/underneath of the original green PCB. Take care not to pull out the wafer cables from the other side of the green PCB (connected to the hard drive etc), while moving the green PCB around. I'm not sure, but I believe that it is important that you should not "smear the contacts". Pull/push the white wafer cables STRAIGHT in and out. No wiggling back and forth. I had a friend remove/insert the white wafer ribbon cables for me, because he had experience with that type of cable/connector.

You should not use the new green PCB (I'm guessing N78F4DUN) on your Philips 3576 (unless you want to lose HDMI out and DV-In, and other possible unknown side effects). I think we both ordered the wrong replacement part # from Funai Parts. Don't worry, the DVD burner is compatible. My N78F4DUN replacement DVD drive (used with my original green PCB on my 3575) has been working fine for about two months (using TY 8x DVD-R's).

Don't forget to unplug your 3576 for 10-15 minutes before working on it. That way you can be sure that the electricity has dissipated from the unit.

Not sure if it will help, but it shouldn't hurt to do a SKIP 987 when you're done swapping DVD drives. Requires both DVD+R and DVD-R blank discs.

Between these notes, and the original DVD Replace instructions, I think you can swap the DVD drives now. I hope that this helps. I also hope that it makes sense. It's late, and I'm pretty tired. I'll check in tomorrow, to see if you need any clarification.


WAJO...
On the DVD Replace instructions, in the DVD Drive Part Numbers table, the 3575/3576/2160 all have part# N78F4DUN, but my original 3575 DVD drive has a sticker on the back (see attached photo below) that says the part# is N78P3DUN. My question is...where did the part# for these models come from (for the Part# Table)? The Service Manual for each model? Did the N78P3DUN get discontinued and replaced by N78F4DUN? I searched this forum and only found one other poster (a couple of years ago) who had a Philips 3575 (or 3576) that also had part# N78P3DUN. Google search came up with nothing (outside this forum). Just wondering.

dfw515

Okay, thanks - I'll relook tonight. So the new PCB just stays attached on the top? Unfortunately I can't see the photos from my work computer as "dropbox" is a blocked site, but I thought there were three cables. Memory is probably just bad.

That would really stink if there is a different part number that has the PCB with all the same connectors as our machine - crud. I'm actually concerned that the bad part is not really my drive, but my PCB. I guess I'll find out tonight...
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post #19069 of 25902 Old 02-21-2012, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericole View Post

Okay, thanks - I'll relook tonight. So the new PCB just stays attached on the top? Unfortunately I can't see the photos from my work computer as "dropbox" is a blocked site, but I thought there were three cables. Memory is probably just bad.

That would really stink if there is a different part number that has the PCB with all the same connectors as our machine - crud. I'm actually concerned that the bad part is not really my drive, but my PCB. I guess I'll find out tonight...

hi ericole..

un-mounting the main PCB and lifting it up makes it easier to install a new drive unit and get its ribbons attached...

philips screw on HDMI connector, philips screw on top left side of main PCB, and the 2 plastic standoffs on the top right side of the main PCB ( just squeeze these with a pair of needle nose pliers to release them from the main PCB...

rgds,
ron g
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post #19070 of 25902 Old 02-21-2012, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericole View Post

Okay, so I went to replace the apparently faulty DVD drive in my Philips 3576 model. I printed out the directions shown here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...=39#ReplaceDVD

ANY useful help is greatly appreciated.
thanks!!!

hi again/...

1 more thing, here...

on your 3576 unit, note the small springy metal tab clipped onto the original
3576 DVD burner unit...

when replacing the drive with a 51x drive unit, be sure to transfer this tab over to the new drive unit, has it does NOT come with the replacement drive unit.

this tab is NOT installed on my Mag 513, so it may not be considered very important. However, the older 3576 machines MAY have had issues with electrical noise that this tab improved or cured. such noise COULD have an effect on successful burning, at least with the 3576 machines, so don't overlook it.

rgds,
ron g
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post #19071 of 25902 Old 02-21-2012, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkg22 View Post

hi jim

i don't remember now, but did you ever try the original 2160 drive unit with the new main PCB ( or some other main PCB ), where the machine then worked ?

if so, then that would prove that there is something wrong with the original main PCB causing your original problems, eg, an aging component causing the main PCB to not be able to supply sufficient burn power to the optics on the original drive unit. this would be further confirmed by using the original 2160 PCB with a new drive unit and experiencing a failure with that combination...

i'm going to study the main PCB as best i can in order to locate any devices or components that are purely power related. it's logical that since your original 2160 configuration encountered failures, when it once obviously worked, and you then encountered failures with the original 2160 PCB driving at least one of the later model drive units, there must be some PCB component that, due to usage, has weakened or changed value, such that you would experience failures ... i know i'm a tinkerer, here, so if i find something, i'll post further in the hi-tech thread...

rgds,
ron g

Ron,

Before I ordered the replacement drive (and PCB accompaniement) I swapped the drives around for my 515 and the 2160A. After the swap, the 2160A worked and the 515 did not. Ergo, the drive is at fault (but not so fast......)

I ordered the drive/PCB combo and installed the board in my 513 and the new drive in my 2160A. The 2160A continued to have its original problem, failing to burn +-Rs. I then put the drive from my 513 into the 2160A and it also didn't burn +-Rs. So, I then tried the old board from the 513 (the one with the inappropriate 715FW) in the 2160A and it DID burn +-Rs. It seems that the PCB and the drive played an interactive role in my particular case.

Since I didn't want the much-reviled (by me) 715FW in any of my Maggies, I put the original 2160A PCB back into the 2160A with the 515 burner (since I knew this would work). I put the original 513 drive into the 515. And put the new drive and companion PCB into my 513 and upgraded the FW to 727V.
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post #19072 of 25902 Old 02-21-2012, 11:48 AM
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Okay, thanks - I'll relook tonight. So the new PCB just stays attached on the top? Unfortunately I can't see the photos from my work computer as "dropbox" is a blocked site, but I thought there were three cables. Memory is probably just bad.

That would really stink if there is a different part number that has the PCB with all the same connectors as our machine - crud. I'm actually concerned that the bad part is not really my drive, but my PCB. I guess I'll find out tonight...

ericole....
There is one Philips screw that holds the two pieces together (in the replacement package that Funai sent you). Remove the new green PCB from the new DVD drive. Use that philips screw to secure your old/dead DVD drive to the new (unused) green PCB and put that bundle in the closet.

Yes, there are three white wafer ribbon cables on the bottom of the old/new DVD drive. Leave them be. Remove/replace the other end of the two wafer cables where they connect to your old green PCB.

Let's hope that your 3576 DVD burner problem was the same as my 3575 DVD burner problem. The DVD drive was dead, and the original green PCB was fine.

Best of luck...
dfw515

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post #19073 of 25902 Old 02-21-2012, 02:56 PM
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There must be something seriously wrong with this 513. I came home after it was unplugged all day, did the soft reset, still no response. I forget what button presses eventually brought it back to life, but it wasn't the soft reset.

While it was still alive, I did a hard reset skip-123, language set, re-scanned channels, set the time, and then a few minutes later it went unresponsive again. Couldn't turn it off, wouldn't respond to any front panel buttons. Then, when I pressed the eject button, it immediately shut off. The time still shows and is keeping the correct time. I listen for any drive/fan activity, but there is none, even after I push the power button. However, I do hear faint drive spinup when I press the eject button, but it still does nothing. I wonder if there is a short in it somewhere.

Unplugged it, and now I'm waiting for the next 10 minute interval to try a soft reset again.

Edit: 15 minutes later, soft reset still does nothing, display is back to --:--

One thing I do notice, when I pressed the eject button, the display dimmed for a second, and then it went back to normal brightness, but nothing else changed. Looked almost like a power drain. But now it doesn't repeat that behavior...still dead.
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post #19074 of 25902 Old 02-21-2012, 04:54 PM
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There must be something seriously wrong with this 513..

Is it too late to return it?
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post #19075 of 25902 Old 02-21-2012, 05:29 PM
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No, it's not too late. In fact, I might just do that. I swapped it out with the other one I bought, and this one is working fine so far. I was just hoping I could salvage it as I wanted a 2nd backup.

Kinda shady, but I could order another one at $229, and then return the original bad one with the $229 receipt, keeping my outlay at $198...assuming my replacement works fine.
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post #19076 of 25902 Old 02-21-2012, 05:50 PM
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Kinda shady, but I could order another one at $229, and then return the original bad one with the $229 receipt, keeping my outlay at $198...assuming my replacement works fine.

Assuming they were from the same store I wouldn't have a problem with that, it's not like you are getting anything other than one good recorder that you should have gotten in the first place
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post #19077 of 25902 Old 02-21-2012, 06:02 PM
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Assuming they were from the same store I wouldn't have a problem with that, it's not like you are getting anything other than one good recorder that you should have gotten in the first place

That's true.

/like we have any doubt which store we're talking about here
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post #19078 of 25902 Old 02-21-2012, 08:16 PM
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ericole....
There is one Philips screw that holds the two pieces together (in the replacement package that Funai sent you). Remove the new green PCB from the new DVD drive. Use that philips screw to secure your old/dead DVD drive to the new (unused) green PCB and put that bundle in the closet.

Yes, there are three white wafer ribbon cables on the bottom of the old/new DVD drive. Leave them be. Remove/replace the other end of the two wafer cables where they connect to your old green PCB.

Let's hope that your 3576 DVD burner problem was the same as my 3575 DVD burner problem. The DVD drive was dead, and the original green PCB was fine.

Best of luck...
dfw515

For all who have offered help and advice, especially in the last day when I couldn't figure out the old/new PCB board stuff, thanks! I am currently burning a DVD with a title that's been on my HDD for a year! So, apparently it was the drive and not the PCB. Still bummed by that though since I've probably burned WAY less than anyone else on this entire forum - very little in fact.

I do have a strange thing though. When I first turned it on, before attempting to burn, I tried SKIP 987. I put in a -R (or what I'm pretty sure is one) and I got the same issue as before - it rejected it and asked for another. So I just skipped that and went to a burn. But it's very weird. I'm sure my TY DVDs are -R as I recall reading somewhere about the best discs, etc when I got this and ordered them from SuperMedia store. But there are absolutely no indications on the spindle to verify that.

I'll get a -R tomorrow, one I know for sure is, and try it again...
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post #19079 of 25902 Old 02-21-2012, 08:31 PM
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Regarding..."I Can Burn Again"
Still bummed by that though since I've probably burned WAY less than anyone else on this entire forum - very little in fact.

Glad it was just the burner and not the PCB also. It is a little odd that your burner died after such little use. It sorta made sense when my 3575 burner died. I had burned roughly 1000 DVD's over 3+ years on just that unit. Mostly junk blank 16x DVD+R's (until last year when I switched to Taiyo Yuden 8x DVD-R's).

Welcome back to the world of DVD burning!!
dfw515

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post #19080 of 25902 Old 02-21-2012, 08:34 PM
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Glad it was just the burner and not the PCB also. It is a little odd that your burner died after such little use. It sorta made sense when my 3575 burner died. I had burned roughly 1000 DVD's over 3+ years on just that unit. Mostly junk blank 16x DVD+R's (until last year when I switched to Taiyo Yuden 8x DVD-R's).

Welcome back to the world of DVD burning!!
dfw515

Wow - I've burned maybe 10 or 15!!!! That royally is a pain - and now I have a good DVD drive but not a usable new PCB since it was actually the wrong part in the instructions. Blah!
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