Magnavox 557, 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 863 - AVS Forum
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post #25861 of 25905 Old 08-30-2014, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Pete-N2 View Post
From what I understand, which is not much, the main difference with an advance format disk is that if the computer attempts to write 512 bytes to the drive 4096 bytes are read in, the 512 bytes are inserted in the correct location and 4096 bytes are written to the drive. This is handled by the 512 emulator software.
Transition to Advanced Format 4K Sector Hard Drives | Seagate explains how even larger than 4kb blocks need to be aligned in order to avoid performance loss from the HDs firmware emulation when heads and tails of the blocks are not aligned to the hardware sectors.

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post #25862 of 25905 Old 08-30-2014, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post
You say "record", but I think simply buffering (caching) that data flow amounts to the same thing.

Did you even read the URI about the Quick6? I seriously doubt it could do what it claims to do without that kind of smarts. I can hardly resist the urge to order one, but that extra $50 off does seem to be strong enough to keep me waiting.
I read the Amazon reviews. It got seven 5-star reviews and five 1-star reviews. That's not a large enough sample group to be definitive but it doesn't exactly make me feel very confident. I'd wait a while too.
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post #25863 of 25905 Old 08-30-2014, 05:19 PM
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Here's a question-

The new model with the inadequate hour capacity settings, but the ability to produce DVDs that are coded for 16:9...

If you took a DVD made on an earlier model that recorded widescreen without black bars, played it into the new machine, once it's on the new model's hard drive, can it be re-burned to another DVD, now coded for 16:9?
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post #25864 of 25905 Old 08-30-2014, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Ken.F View Post
I read the Amazon reviews. It got seven 5-star reviews and five 1-star reviews. That's not a large enough sample group to be definitive but it doesn't exactly make me feel very confident. I'd wait a while too.
I'm only waiting in order to save $50. I read all Amazon reviews. The only negative I anticipate could affect my use pattern is device compatibility. For PIP (which along with POP I have turned on more often than not) to fully fulfill its promise, the PIP controller needs as many inputs as possible. New TVs don't have enough, and all the few I've found with PIP/POP make you dig through menus to switch to instead of having direct access buttons like my first Vizio has. The other big plus is switching speed, which with HDMI on my TVs is painfully slow, a huge regression from analog switching. Another plus, the ability to turn off auto-sensing, without which I'd probably not be able to consider it. Auto-sensing inputs is why I don't have more simple HDMI switching units than the fully manual 4X1 I have now. I've even told monoprice.com that auto-sensing is why I've not bought any of their HDMI switches. Auto-sensing is probably great for people who drive automatics, but I drive a stick. I get to pick when a switch is appropriate, without interference from some gadget that can't possibly know what I'm thinking.

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post #25865 of 25905 Old 08-31-2014, 03:11 PM
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Your new puter should be up to the task without adding any more built-in options by making use only of its USB ports. . . .

#1 requires availability of two devices to house a HD, while #2 makes do with only one, unless the external device is one of those designed for 2 disks at once. #2 means 320MB of space must be available on one filesystem for the file that needs to be made and copied. . .

What software is required depends on whether you'll be using Windows. . . .
Hi MrMazda,

I apologize for the delay in responding to you. There was a lot to digest in your post.

I was confused at first by your referring to my old "513" HD, until I figured out that the 513 came after the 2160. From what I've read the 2160 will accept most hard drives (I'm assuming it takes the 3.5'). Is it true that the MDR537H--f7 takes a smaller, 2.5' drive?

So my problem will be to copy the drive currently in the 2160 to another while I still can. Seems to me that some sort of external drive bay would be needed if I wanted to do it with my new computer. I could in theory copy the contents onto the internal slave drive I was planning on installing providing that a Western Digital 3.5' drive will be compatible with the 1260 (I happen to have a new, unused WD 98 gig lying around; that's why I was planning on using it. It also happens to have been purchased about 7 years ago, so compatibility should not be an issue).

Once I've recovered what I can and burned it to discs, I will come back and ask for advice on what kind of drive I should put back into the 2160. I've read that a lot of people were able to install much larger drives into that machine, but since you brought up the issue of newer drives maybe not being compatible, I will have to address that question later.

I don't like pulling out internal IDE drives 'cause it can be quite difficult to pull out the ribbon cable connection (Reminder to self: make sure they build the new computer so that I can easily reach the blasted thing.) But that's the only methodology I can come up with my limited level of expertise. Do I have it right or am I going about it all wrong?

Software: I will be getting a dual boot system with both XP and Windows 7.

Right now I'm getting ready to go up to Vermont. Will have to revisit this thread when I get back, which may not be for 2-3 months, so if you don't see me replying to future posts it's because I'm gone. But I thank you for your very detailed response.

Trist
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post #25866 of 25905 Old 08-31-2014, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Trist View Post
Since I almost always leave the Maggie on L3 when I'm not actually recording, I suspect the noise is coming from the hard drive. At any rate, I'm terrified of turning it on for fear that the drive will completely go.

I shall be getting a new custom-made computer in December. You've just given me an idea for some add-ons I should request. I know the new computer will come with one solid state drive and one regular (SATA) slave drive, as well as five USB ports. And I already have a Seagate 500 gig external drive that uses a USB port. Perhaps you could instruct me as to what exactly extra I will need and how to proceed?

Thanks in advance,

Trist
There are directions on replacing hard drives among the many posts on this thread. I checked the first post that wajo had been maintaining. It does look like the links from that post don't work anymore. If you want to try changing the hard drive, the information are in this very long thread. WD does still make one line of 3.5 PATA hard drives that would work in the 2160.

If you want to just get the drive copied then you need to do a sector level copy of the old drive over to the new one. The new drive would then have the same size file system as the old one. There are no partitions on these drives so if your trying to use a drive utility that is coping a partition, it won't work. I would get two PATA based USB drive bay to mount your old drive in and the new one to copy to. Then you can use your computer to move the data over to the new disk. If you want to resize the file system for a bigger drive. It's more work because a few "files" new to grow for the larger filesystem.

Hard Disk File System investigation for the Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575

I've had hard drives get very loud for a long time and still function.

You sure it isn't the fan? That would be more likely.
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post #25867 of 25905 Old 08-31-2014, 06:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by PeterTheGeek View Post
There are directions on replacing hard drives among the many posts on this thread. I checked the first post that wajo had been maintaining. It does look like the links from that post don't work anymore. ...
*Most* but not all of the important links still work but the links with the names of Pioneers, which used to open a PM window for convenience in contacting them, don't work... internal links to their stories do still work.


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post #25868 of 25905 Old 09-01-2014, 05:04 PM
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recordings from FiOS?

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Originally Posted by Ken.F View Post
Quote:
FiOS doesn't use copy protection on anything coming from the composite or S-video line outputs of the set top box so you should be able to record any channel that you are subscribed to. The cable box won't output a widescreen picture from those video outputs so your recordings from the cable box will be letter-boxed.
Regarding the above statement of about a year ago: Is it still the case that I would only get letter-boxed recordings from [any?] FiOS Motorola S-video output? And are these outputs still not copy-protected? Final question: are the S-video outputs clear to record regardless if the box is connected to the TV or not via HDMI?

I'm considering switching now from Cablevision to Verizon to save a bundle on introductory pricing, but I would not want to sacrifice my current Mag-friendly recording setup.

Thanks for your help.
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post #25869 of 25905 Old 09-01-2014, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by McSam View Post
Regarding the above statement of about a year ago...
I'm not sure. I haven't had a recorder hooked up to FiOS cable box in a long time. If nobody else chimes in with an answer for you I can connect one up and check for you.
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post #25870 of 25905 Old 09-03-2014, 12:44 PM
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I want to thank all of you for your assistance here!


I put the HDMI splitter I have in place and seems to keep the signal alive to the STB just fine (or at least the last few shows I have recorded!).


I never thought of that the TV being off was the culprit.


I thought it was my Magnavox unit being a PITA!


BTW, I have an older Magnavox MDR513H. It does not have any HMDI input port. Do you know if the newer units that came out earlier this year have HDMI input ports?


I would also like to find a unit that reads/uses TV Guide schedule info. I have a dual tuner that has this feature and it is great. Not only can you see what is coming on, when you look at the recorded shows, it has the show name, channel, and date which is really nice.
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post #25871 of 25905 Old 09-03-2014, 12:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAS-Sr View Post
...

BTW, I have an older Magnavox MDR513H. It does not have any HMDI input port. Do you know if the newer units that came out earlier this year have HDMI input ports?

I would also like to find a unit that reads/uses TV Guide schedule info. I have a dual tuner that has this feature and it is great. Not only can you see what is coming on, when you look at the recorded shows, it has the show name, channel, and date which is really nice.
No HDMI input on any DVDR for N.A. use.

You can get show name, channel, date, time, rec mode, and live index pic in the Title List in a 513 (and 2160A) by updating the FW to SuperFW 727V, as described here.

Once installed, you'll pre-title timers/shows as described here.


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Last edited by wajo; 09-03-2014 at 02:42 PM.
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post #25872 of 25905 Old 09-03-2014, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by BAS-Sr View Post
I put the HDMI splitter I have in place and seems to keep the signal alive to the STB just fine (or at least the last few shows I have recorded!).
Thanks for the update. I didn't think a HDMI splitter would work. Glad to hear I was wrong.
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post #25873 of 25905 Old 09-03-2014, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Ken.F View Post
Thanks for the update. I didn't think a HDMI splitter would work. Glad to hear I was wrong.

As I always say, I am glad to be wrong when the result is better than I thought it would be! :-)
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post #25874 of 25905 Old 09-03-2014, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by BAS-Sr View Post
I put the HDMI splitter I have in place and seems to keep the signal alive to the STB just fine (or at least the last few shows I have recorded!).
Now let's hear about your splitter! Is it active, or is it passive? What brand and model number? If it requires its own power supply brick or has a 115v power cable, it's probably active, otherwise probably not.

I just got a 2-output HDMI splitter via Newegg from Etekcity yesterday, but haven't found time to see yet if it's a workaround for no analog output while HDMI cable connected to BHN cable box, similar to the problem you just solved, or even if it actually functions (not DOA). For me, Etekcity is a first instance vendor.

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post #25875 of 25905 Old 09-03-2014, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by McSam View Post
Regarding the above statement of about a year ago: Is it still the case that I would only get letter-boxed recordings from [any?] FiOS Motorola S-video output? And are these outputs still not copy-protected? Final question: are the S-video outputs clear to record regardless if the box is connected to the TV or not via HDMI?

I'm considering switching now from Cablevision to Verizon to save a bundle on introductory pricing, but I would not want to sacrifice my current Mag-friendly recording setup.

Thanks for your help.
I hooked my 513 up to the FiOS Motorola HD DVR QIP-7261 cable box. The cable box is connected to the TV with component cables. I also used component video to connect the 513 to the TV. I used a composite cable to connect the video out from the cable box to the L2 input on the 513. I successfully did a test recording on HBO so you should be able to record from any channel. The composite output from the cable box is letter-boxed. I didn't have a HDMI cable or S-video cable available for testing but I think it should work.
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post #25876 of 25905 Old 09-03-2014, 06:33 PM
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re: recordings from FiOS?

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Originally Posted by Ken.F View Post
I hooked my 513 up to the FiOS Motorola HD DVR QIP-7261 cable box. The cable box is connected to the TV with component cables. I also used component video to connect the 513 to the TV. I used a composite cable to connect the video out from the cable box to the L2 input on the 513. I successfully did a test recording on HBO so you should be able to record from any channel. The composite output from the cable box is letter-boxed. I didn't have a HDMI cable or S-video cable available for testing but I think it should work.
Thanks, Ken. You say that you think the S-video cable should work. I agree, but the crucial question for me is will it provide a widescreen image? I see no reason to be optimistic about that. Would anyone please weigh in on the theoretical question whether a cable box (any brand or carrier) S-video output could possibly be widescreen if its composite output is only letter-boxed?
Thanks in advance.
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post #25877 of 25905 Old 09-03-2014, 06:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by McSam View Post
Thanks, Ken. You say that you think the S-video cable should work. I agree, but the crucial question for me is will it provide a widescreen image? I see no reason to be optimistic about that. Would anyone please weigh in on the theoretical question whether a cable box (any brand or carrier) S-video output could possibly be widescreen if its composite output is only letter-boxed?
Here's a chart on some STBs that will and won't maintain 16:9 aspect over composite or S-Video outputs.

I had been maintaining that chart as best I could and can't tell when I last updated that page since the switch from Huddler to VB SW deleted all "Last edited" notations at bottom of pages.


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post #25878 of 25905 Old 09-03-2014, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McSam View Post
Would anyone please weigh in on the theoretical question whether a cable box (any brand or carrier) S-video output could possibly be widescreen if its composite output is only letter-boxed?
I'd be very seriously astonished to learn that any cable box outputting letterbox to composite, providing no option for non-letterbox, would not do only the exact same from S-video. IOW, I think the odds what you want exists is too low to distinguish from zero.

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post #25879 of 25905 Old 09-04-2014, 04:30 AM
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Now let's hear about your splitter! Is it active, or is it passive? What brand and model number? If it requires its own power supply brick or has a 115v power cable, it's probably active, otherwise probably not.

I just got a 2-output HDMI splitter via Newegg from Etekcity yesterday, but haven't found time to see yet if it's a workaround for no analog output while HDMI cable connected to BHN cable box, similar to the problem you just solved, or even if it actually functions (not DOA). For me, Etekcity is a first instance vendor.
When I saw your post, had to pull out the "EXTENSIVE" manual that came with it. All of 4 pages, each page about 2" x 2". Got to LUV some of this cheap garbage! :-)


Manual has no name, brand, or other markings on it that would identify the splitter, not does the splitter itself.


Splitter has a 110VAC brick (actually very small) with 5VDC output to the splitter.


Splitter has input HDMI port on one side and 2 output ports on the other side. The 5DVC port is next to the input port with one small red LED.


I seem to remember buying this a year or so ago off of eBay, so this is probably a generic model of some sort. I wanted to split the HDMI output from my STB/cablebox and assumed that the Magnavox had an HDMI input, thus when I went to install it I did not since there was no HDMI input on the Magnavox. So the splitter is sitting there with one input cable and one output cable, basically just acting as an active device for the STB.


I looked on eBay for the auction, auction details are not available, but can see the highlights from my purchase history. See attached screenshot.


Hope this helps! :-)
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post #25880 of 25905 Old 09-04-2014, 10:25 AM
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re: recordings from FiOS?

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Originally Posted by Ken.F View Post
...The composite output from the cable box is letter-boxed. I didn't have a HDMI cable or S-video cable available for testing but I think it should work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post
Here's a chart on some STBs that will and won't maintain 16:9 aspect over composite or S-Video outputs.
Thanks to Wajo's chart it's confirmed that I won't get widescreen out of a FiOS motorola STB, but also thanks to that page the solution is at hand: I can just use an HDMI to composite converter. BTW the following page clarifies the oddball composite behavior of the FiOS Motorola 7232 noted in Wajo's chart:
http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r253...ecorderhttp://
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post #25881 of 25905 Old 09-07-2014, 04:14 PM
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Watching the Nebraska/McNeese State game yesterday I started recording and then did something else for a while so that we could skip through commercials. It worked absolute fine until halftime. I paused it again and did something else for a half an hour or so. When I came back it was part way through the 3rd quarter. I backed it up to the halftime and then started watching it again. part way through the 3rd quarter it again just "jumped" to live (somewhere in the 4th quarter.)

I rewound it again to where I was and it kept jumping to live. So the last time I didn't back it up as far and it continued to work. But I missed part of 3rd quarter.

Any one have an explanation for this behavior?

At least Nebraska won! Barely.

Chubby, old guy in Omaha, Nebraska

Last edited by matonanjin; 09-09-2014 at 10:48 AM.
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post #25882 of 25905 Old 09-09-2014, 10:49 AM
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Anyone?

Anyone any idea what might cause this? Bad HDD?

Chubby, old guy in Omaha, Nebraska
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post #25883 of 25905 Old 09-09-2014, 11:23 AM
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Anyone any idea what might cause this? Bad HDD?
It could be the HDD, but I doubt it. It sounds like a firmware bug of some kind, maybe causing the unit to choke somehow on a bit of video data that it doesn't like. But did you leave it paused longer the second time than the first? Maybe the size of the live-TV buffer is just limited, and you hit the limit. For the record, I'm more familiar with TiVo than with these recorders.
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post #25884 of 25905 Old 09-10-2014, 10:10 AM
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HDMI to S-video converter quality

I just bought an HDMI to S-video converter which seems to work, but there definitely are some artifacts on the screen which I'm not sure are normal for this kind of device. Mainly they're translucent horizontal bands (or waves) that seem to float up and down. The picture is not too bad from a distance, but it's still somewhat muddy. This is the model I got:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Did I get a lemon? Have others had better results from their models? Any recommendations would be appreciated, as I can easily return this one.

Thank you very much.
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post #25885 of 25905 Old 09-10-2014, 10:25 AM
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My converter box came from mono price and it has some faint lines that are really only noticeable on really dark or all black screen.
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post #25886 of 25905 Old 09-10-2014, 10:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McSam View Post
I just bought an HDMI to S-video converter which seems to work, but there definitely are some artifacts on the screen which I'm not sure are normal for this kind of device. Mainly they're translucent horizontal bands (or waves) that seem to float up and down. The picture is not too bad from a distance, but it's still somewhat muddy. This is the model I got:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Did I get a lemon? Have others had better results from their models? Any recommendations would be appreciated, as I can easily return this one.
I have one like this, except mine has no model # or mfgr on the unit, and it has "HDMI Converter" across the top center as the only marking. It does a good job and has no artifacts. Obviously, YMMV.

Since there are so may counterfeits of this product, I'd hang onto your first one until you try any others... they may be worse!?

I noticed several Amazon Reviews on the linked unit where people got apparently "used" units. One in particular caught my attention... the ultimate bad review that wrongly detracts from a product's rep:

"When I opened the box the spool end came off leaving me with about 4 hours work to untangle the line, repair the spool and rewind 1000' of line back onto the spool. The cord is great,"


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Last edited by wajo; 09-10-2014 at 11:45 AM.
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post #25887 of 25905 Old 09-11-2014, 10:34 AM
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..."When I opened the box the spool end came off leaving me with about 4 hours work to untangle the line, repair the spool and rewind 1000' of line back onto the spool. The cord is great,"
Does ANYONE here have ANY idea what "spool" and "1000' of line" this Amazon Review guy is talking about?
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post #25888 of 25905 Old 09-11-2014, 11:03 AM
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Fishing line.

- kelson h

The bitterness of poor quality lasts long after the sweetness of the low price is forgotten . . . life is too short to drink bad wine

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post #25889 of 25905 Old 09-11-2014, 09:09 PM
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Fishing line.
He was trying to use his unit for fishing?

Line coming loose is the least of this guy's concerns...
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post #25890 of 25905 Old 09-11-2014, 09:25 PM
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He was trying to use his unit for fishing?

Line coming loose is the least of this guy's concerns...
At least it wasn't paracord.
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