Magnavox 557, 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 874 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #26191 of 26219 Old 01-26-2015, 07:37 AM
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It doesn't matter, but the bottom crawl is Nasdaq, not S&P. The HD feed on CNBC can have blurring of the crawls during commercials. Don't use it as a benchmark for clarity. The bottom crawl is sometimes slower. Yeah, I watch CNBC all the time. Sometimes the SD version is easier to watch.

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post #26192 of 26219 Old 01-26-2015, 09:41 AM
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I order to have frame accurate editing, the unit has to have capability for local recoding around the cut point. Real-time burning will do that because it recodes the entire video during the output. Unless the HSD has local recoding built in it will make cuts at an I-frame. It would be surprising to see that capability in one of these units.

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post #26193 of 26219 Old 01-26-2015, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post
I don't know if it flows into how these newer models enable advantages of VR mode, but in video mode used by most Funais your edits can miss your mark by up to 14 frames, leaving bits of commercial at start, end or middle, that you thought you edited out, playing after you've dubbed to a DVD. VR mode at least in theory is accurate to the frame, while DVDs using it may not be playable on the player you want to play it on.
So between "Video" mode and "VR" mode, "Video" mode is the one you'd want so's to assure it'll play on a standard DVD player?
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post #26194 of 26219 Old 01-26-2015, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gastrof View Post
... can someone tell me where the manual specifically says you can set the aspect ratio for a DVD you're burning? What page is that on?

The only possible sign of it (that I've found) is on page 101, bottom part of the "Recording" section. It also seems to suggest this can only be done in "Video" mode. Again, wondering what that's all about.
Does anyone with the 557 have any experience in burning a DVD in anamorphic widescreen?

If we misunderstood this all along and the 557 can't do it anyway, then that's a reason to not bother with it if you've got several of the earlier models.
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post #26195 of 26219 Old 01-27-2015, 03:33 AM
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Hi, I have a Magnavox 513 that I got around less than 3 years ago and it has been a great machine but I just had a problem.It all of a sudden can not erase or record on any RW DVD.When I try, for about 14 seconds it seems like normal but then I get an error message.

Recording Error
Can Not record on this disc
E 4 54043e02

It can play what was on the RW DVD.Also I have tested and it seems to play all DVDS and it can record on -R and +R.So the only issue seems to be with RW DVD's.

I use RW DVDs a lot so loosing this feature hurts my normal recording a lot.

I was wondering if I could get some advice on what I should do or try.
Thanks so much
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post #26196 of 26219 Old 01-27-2015, 06:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikepeluso View Post
Hi, I have a Magnavox 513 that I got around less than 3 years ago and it has been a great machine but I just had a problem.It all of a sudden can not erase or record on any RW DVD.When I try, for about 14 seconds it seems like normal but then I get an error message.

Recording Error
Can Not record on this disc
E 4 54043e02

It can play what was on the RW DVD.Also I have tested and it seems to play all DVDS and it can record on -R and +R.So the only issue seems to be with RW DVD's.

I use RW DVDs a lot so loosing this feature hurts my normal recording a lot.

I was wondering if I could get some advice on what I should do or try.
Thanks so much
If you are having trouble with DVD+RW discs try switching to DVD-RW. My 513 and 515 both do the same thing yours does with all of the discs from a 10 pack of cheap Memorex DVD+RW discs that I have. The recorders work just fine with all of the other disc types and brands that I have (Sony+R and -R, TY-JVC -R, and Memorex +R, -R and -RW). Both of my Magnavox recorders are heavily used so it's possible the spindle clamp is just getting dirty and can't get a grip on those discs. The same +RWs play in the Magnavox recorders and they read and write fine in my computers so I don't think there is anything wrong with the recording area.
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post #26197 of 26219 Old 01-27-2015, 10:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Sorry, I deleted my post quickly since I just noticed an "Out of Stock" banner on each.

The new shipment expected Feb 4 is by Home Depot and is for 557's, the latest model.

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post #26198 of 26219 Old 01-27-2015, 11:01 AM
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Question M-Disc Recorders?

It's been a while since I've been on here and couldn't remember if I could just search this thread. I did search the overall AVS site and didn't find it linked to this. I just ran across M-Disc the other day and was thinking how nice it would be to have something like this in my unit. Has there been any discussion of this at all?
thanks
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post #26199 of 26219 Old 01-27-2015, 12:03 PM
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Wow, that was fast! From the webmaster:

"Hello,

Discussion of selling an item anywhere outside of the dedicated classifieds is forbidden. Please delete any such posts immediately.


Thank You"

Looks like I have some deleting (and maybe apologizing) to do.
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post #26200 of 26219 Old 01-27-2015, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken.F View Post
If you are having trouble with DVD+RW discs try switching to DVD-RW. My 513 and 515 both do the same thing yours does with all of the discs from a 10 pack of cheap Memorex DVD+RW discs that I have. The recorders work just fine with all of the other disc types and brands that I have (Sony+R and -R, TY-JVC -R, and Memorex +R, -R and -RW). Both of my Magnavox recorders are heavily used so it's possible the spindle clamp is just getting dirty and can't get a grip on those discs. The same +RWs play in the Magnavox recorders and they read and write fine in my computers so I don't think there is anything wrong with the recording area.


I just tried to dub a show that was almost 2 hours on to a -R dvd and about 15 minutes in it froze and I got the can't record on this disc error message.
So it appears it really won't record on any type of disc now.
I am not really that tech savvy so I was wondering if someone help me with what my options are( like cleaning the spindle or laser eye or if the dvd burner can be replaced)or maybe give me a link to info.

Thanks so much
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post #26201 of 26219 Old 01-27-2015, 03:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikepeluso View Post
I just tried to dub a show that was almost 2 hours on to a -R dvd and about 15 minutes in it froze and I got the can't record on this disc error message.
So it appears it really won't record on any type of disc now.
I am not really that tech savvy so I was wondering if someone help me with what my options are( like cleaning the spindle or laser eye or if the dvd burner can be replaced)or maybe give me a link to info.
It's too early to get into hardware-replacement mode... need to try some other things.

1st, what brand and speed are the DVDs you're having trouble with.

2nd, have you installed SuperFW 727V in your 513?

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Last edited by wajo; 01-27-2015 at 03:29 PM.
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post #26202 of 26219 Old 01-27-2015, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by wajo View Post
It's too early to get into hardware-replacement mode... need to try some other things.

1st, what brand and speed are the DVDs you're having trouble with.

2nd, have you installed SuperFW 727V in your 513?

I have tried Sony and Verbatim and even a couple cheaper brands of -RW,+RW,-R,+R.
I tried to record in HQ and SP speed.

On any -RW or +RW it can't record or erase but it can play what was on the RW dvd.
When I try to record or erase, for about 14 seconds it seems like normal but then I get an error message.

Recording Error
Can Not record on this disc
E 4 54043e02

Any DVD can be played in the machine but it appears all types of dvd now will get a can't record on this disc message.


As for installed, I have just used it out of the box the last several years.
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post #26203 of 26219 Old 01-27-2015, 03:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Mike,
Have you been using the RW discs for awhile? If so, try gently washing the surface with mild soap and water and a soft rag, esp. the tracks around the center hole... rinse and dry thoroughly of course. Your error E4 is saying the "OPC" area is "full" which could mean it's dirty and the machine can't use that area to do prelim. and ongoing performance testing. One reason not to load and unload discs with finger in hole.

Try this first.

If your first reaction is to say you have problems with NEW discs, I can only recommend you still try the cleaning since there were many reports of brand new Panasonic RAM discs not working until the users cleaned them. Might apply here.

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Last edited by wajo; 01-27-2015 at 04:04 PM.
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post #26204 of 26219 Old 01-27-2015, 06:29 PM
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Got my "new" (used) machine in today and it works like a world champ! I am happy! Now I just need to find a remote to go with it. I couldn't complain about it not having the remote at the price I got it for. My old Mag 2160 has a NB820 remote, is that the same remote for the MDR515 or is it a different model #? Thanks.
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post #26205 of 26219 Old 01-27-2015, 07:06 PM
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Now I just need to find a remote to go with it. I couldn't complain about it not having the remote at the price I got it for. My old Mag 2160 has a NB820 remote, is that the same remote for the MDR515 or is it a different model #?
The 515 shipped with an NC003 remote, which has a different layout, but the NB820 has all the buttons you need for your 515. I like the older better, so my 515's remote has rarely been used, and I've worn out two NB820s (at least one button gone dead, and cleaning doesn't help).

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post #26206 of 26219 Old 01-27-2015, 07:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peacedog View Post
Got my "new" (used) machine in today and it works like a world champ! I am happy! Now I just need to find a remote to go with it. I couldn't complain about it not having the remote at the price I got it for. My old Mag 2160 has a NB820 remote, is that the same remote for the MDR515 or is it a different model #? Thanks.
The NB820 remote was OEM for the 2160, 2160A and 513. The 515 and 53x models went to a NC003UD, and the 557 uses a NC003UH. They're all "interchangeable" but with diff. size/shape, buttons and layout.

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post #26207 of 26219 Old 01-27-2015, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by wajo View Post
Mike,
Have you been using the RW discs for awhile? If so, try gently washing the surface with mild soap and water and a soft rag, esp. the tracks around the center hole... rinse and dry thoroughly of course. Your error E4 is saying the "OPC" area is "full" which could mean it's dirty and the machine can't use that area to do prelim. and ongoing performance testing. One reason not to load and unload discs with finger in hole.

Try this first.

If your first reaction is to say you have problems with NEW discs, I can only recommend you still try the cleaning since there were many reports of brand new Panasonic RAM discs not working until the users cleaned them. Might apply here.

I am almost 99% sure the problem is not the discs because I have tried so many brands and tried used(some cleaned) and brand new discs and all different kinds -R,+R, -RW,+RW
and they all can't record and end with an error.

I must have been lucky because in all the time I used the machine I don't recall ever having a brand or type of disc not being able to be used, expect some Sony RW's that were used many times.

What would be my options now if its not the discs?
Thanks

Last edited by mikepeluso; 01-27-2015 at 11:40 PM.
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post #26208 of 26219 Old 01-27-2015, 11:11 PM
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I must have been lucky because in all the time I used the machine I don't recall ever having a brand or type of disc not being able to be used, expect some Sony RW's that were used many times.
It is only Sony +RW that ever gave me recurring E4 errors that I for sure remember. I still get them from my 515, but only by writing or erasing those Sonys anywhere other than in my 515. So, those I ever write/erase elsewhere I mark such, and those I write/erase in my 515, I mark and only write or erase in my 515. I think I have gotten E4 errors that I no longer remember, but that would be from -RW, not Sony, and only after many write/finalize/erase cycles.

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post #26209 of 26219 Old 01-28-2015, 04:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikepeluso View Post
I am almost 99% sure the problem is not the discs because I have tried so many brands and tried used(some cleaned) and brand new discs and all different kinds -R,+R, -RW,+RW
and they all can't record and end with an error.
It's probably a bad write laser in the drive. You could try cleaning the drive first, but if that doesn't bring it back you may need to replace the DVD drive.
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post #26210 of 26219 Old 01-28-2015, 06:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post
The 515 shipped with an NC003 remote, which has a different layout, but the NB820 has all the buttons you need for your 515. I like the older better, so my 515's remote has rarely been used, and I've worn out two NB820s (at least one button gone dead, and cleaning doesn't help).
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post
The NB820 remote was OEM for the 2160, 2160A and 513. The 515 and 53x models went to a NC003UD, and the 557 uses a NC003UH. They're all "interchangeable" but with diff. size/shape, buttons and layout.
You guys in this forum are Rockstars. I've been reading here for years, but just recently began posting and everyone here has been terrific. Thanks.
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post #26211 of 26219 Old 01-28-2015, 11:53 PM
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It's probably a bad write laser in the drive. You could try cleaning the drive first, but if that doesn't bring it back you may need to replace the DVD drive.

Thanks so much. I will try the cleaning steps.
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2160mw9a gone completely dead

Hello everyone...

Been reading the mail here for a couple years and many thanks to all the posters for the terriffic amount of fab info on these Funai machines.

I have an old 2160mw9a that just rolled up and died about a month ago and not a clue of what's going on.

Also have the MDR513 and MDR537, both of which are still running just like new.

All three of these have been protected AT ALL TIMES by being plugged into a Tripplite battery backup device, the Tripplite Internet Office 500, which is good for 350 watts. It gives protection for surges from the insane utility company but naturally, not lightning. Only protection from lightning is to pull the plug out of the wall and wait until the storms have passed.

This we have been doing right along. Anyway, my 2160 died a month ago and there haven't been any storms to unplug for, ha ha. Most of the time, this 2160mw9 sits unplugged so it doesn't pick up stray commands from the remote control, as everyone here knows how these things all use the same remote commands.

Well, I just went to plug in the 2160 a few weeks ago and nothing happened. It was like I'd never plugged it in. So I take off the cabinet cover, get out my Fluke Model 87 DMM, check continuity up and down the power cord, first one side, then the other, thinking a wire had broke in the power cord.

No, the line cord is fine. I pop out the 2 amp fuse and check with the Fluke DMM. It checks fine. Pop it back in. Look around for burned up components in the power supply area.

Nothing. No burned smells, no bulging electrolytic caps, no burned up resistors, no foul smells, looks and smells like a brand new unit.

But it's dead as a deer on the highway. Display completely blank, fan does not run, Hitachi hard drive will not spool up.

Check with the Fluke DMM to see if I have 123VAC at the spots on the circuit board where the power cord solders down. Yep. And a good fuse, but this rascal is dead as dead can be. Never had any consumer electronic device be this dead.

I found the RESET button on the big circuit board and pressed it. No help.

All out of ideas what else to do. It's no big deal really. It's almost 5 years old now and I can't say I got cheated as it's recorded hundreds of evening news broadcasts and football games so I got my money's worth. It just bugs ya, wondering why it's dead when it wasn't abused, no lightning storms to blow it out, not dropped, not kicked, not doused with coffee. Only a couple programs on the HDD that are not backed up to DVD's so no big loss there.

Does anyone have any experience sending one of these to Fuani for repair? Are they trustworthy to do good repairs?

If nothing else, posting this may serve as a warning to all the visitors here to this fabulous forum to ALWAYS BACK UP, especially if your units have games, shows, programs you would not want to lose, cuz an incident like this comes as a total surprise, completely unexpected, and since I can't spool 'er up, I have no access to the HDD so what's on there is lost.

The point being, this could happen to YOU, without warning. It sure has taken me by surprise.

Any suggestions much appreciated. Thanks for all the great info.

Bart.... So Central Missouri


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post #26213 of 26219 Old 01-29-2015, 02:42 AM
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Originally Posted by hopsing44 View Post

Any suggestions much appreciated. Thanks for all the great info.

Bart.... So Central Missouri


I'm curious if a soft reset would work. I think that does the same thing as the internal reset button but I'm not 100% sure.
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Does anyone have any experience sending one of these to Fuani for repair? Are they trustworthy to do good repairs?
I sent my first 2160A in for repair under WalMart's extended warranty when it was about 16 months old. It's tuner died and the motherboard was replaced by Lifetime Service in Williamsville NY. The repair went OK functionally, but of the 7 screws holding the cover on, they had stripped 3. I wonder whether "Funai service" is done by Funai itself, or farmed out to a place like Lifetime, or Lifetime.

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post #26215 of 26219 Old 01-29-2015, 01:39 PM
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Sorry, I deleted my post quickly since I just noticed an "Out of Stock" banner on each.

The new shipment expected Feb 4 is by Home Depot and is for 557's, the latest model.
Wajo-
Will these still be "in store only", or will it be possible to order one online?

Last edited by gastrof; 01-29-2015 at 01:49 PM. Reason: stupid typo....
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post #26216 of 26219 Old 01-29-2015, 01:49 PM - Thread Starter
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The 557's from Home Depot should be online.

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post #26217 of 26219 Old Yesterday, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by hopsing44 View Post

Any suggestions much appreciated. Thanks for all the great info.

Bart.... So Central Missouri


Sorry no suggestions. You tried everything I would have tried.
But since I also have a 2160 that is 8 years old I would really like to know the outcome of your repair. Please post an updates when you have one.
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post #26218 of 26219 Old Yesterday, 10:16 PM
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The NB820 remote was OEM for the 2160, 2160A and 513. The 515 and 53x models went to a NC003UD, and the 557 uses a NC003UH. They're all "interchangeable" but with diff. size/shape, buttons and layout.
Will this NB345UD work?

http://www.amazon.com/REMOTE-CONTROL...x+remote+nb820

Thanks.
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Regulator Transistor produces no heat

Hello AVS members:

Poster "antisticimaging" requested additional details if there was anything to report.

Well, there is... I think I know what has happened to this 2160mw9 critter.

I plugged it in again last night, left it run a few hours, put on the old magnifying hood, grabbed flashlight, and zoomed in for closer look-- real close, enough in fact that my nose detected some heat. Woah.... What's going on here??

Yea, the unit is very much alive. Anyway, I have 50 years of holding a valid ham radio license so I've spent some time fiddling with circuit boards. I'm familiar with the various components one might encounter in this 2160mw9 power supply section.

Well, I know a voltage/current regulator when I see one. This unit, and no doubt the 513, 515, 537 and all the others, has two. It's a challenge being able to read the numbers on the circuit board but we finally were able to make them out.

One of the regulators burned my finger-- Q2101, which is the one closest to the large electrolytic cap, and near the step-down power transformer. This critter is still very much alive. When I say I got burned, I mean touching the heatsink, not an electrical shock.

Now, there is one more regulator, over towards the upside down PCB, the one approximately in the center of the unit. This other regulator is Q2203. There is no heat whatever coming off this regulator. Both of these regulator/transistors, Q2203 & Q2101 are mounted on "L" shaped steel heat sinks to dissipate the generated heat.

Q2203 is stone cold. If it was alive and doing its thing, one must expect there would be at least some noticeable heat, and most likely, it should be kicking out roughly the same kind of heat as Q2101.

Most likely, one of these regulators is for the 5 volt buss, the other for the 12 volt buss. Which is which I don't know yet. Trying to get the voltmeter probe on the leads of either of these devices proved rather difficult and I decided last night I'd rather not create a short circuit with the probe tip until I can come up with a better idea. Besides, now it doesn't matter. I already know Q2203 is dead and quite obviously, the unit is not going to turn on with either its 5 volt or 12 buss out of action. It's probably the 12 volt. If the unit had 12 volts running thru it, the display would probably light up but the hard drive naturally would not spool up.

For reasons unknown, I've obviously been hit with a voltage spike that has killed the Q2203 regulator as it's cold as an ice cube.

So the challenge comes down to trying to find a replacement regulator transistor but how does one do that if you can't get your hands on a schematic or maintenance manual that lists the parts so you know what to order.

I called the Funai 800 number on the cover of the Uner's Guide but that turned out to be a nightmare. This company doesn't care one catwhisker about customer service. They gave me the number for a service outlet in Springfield Missouri that is out of business. Horribly frustrating.

Anyway, I guess the final question for the Forum members comes down to------ does anyone have a service/shop manual for any of these units? The 2160a, 513, 515, 537, 557--- they no doubt all have the very same power supply configuration so a manual for one would be just as good as for any of the other units in this series.

If anyone does, look in there and see if it gives any clues to the identity for:
Q2101 &
Q2203.

If I had that info, I know where to look for parts: places like Elliot Supply, Mark Electronics, Newark, Digi-Key, Mouser Electronics, to name a few.

Thanks to all for taking time to review my posting and to those that offered comments.

Best to all....

Bart. So Central Mo.
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