Magnavox 557, 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 886 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #26551 of 26579 Old 06-25-2015, 11:59 AM
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I'm hesitant to buy something that's "used" but not "refubished". Why did they sell it?

By the way...

The place a lot of us got cables from at one point... What's the name of that website? I'm drawing a total blank.

I'm about to do an internet search for "cables" and see what comes up.

EDIT:
Duh. Monoprice.


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post #26552 of 26579 Old 06-25-2015, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by gastrof View Post
The place a lot of us got cables from at one point... What's the name of that website? I'm drawing a total blank. I'm about to do an internet search for "cables" and see what comes up.
EDIT: Duh. Monoprice.
I started to order some cables and things from there night before last, but as I added little things to cart, shipping was piling up steeply, $18 cheapest method to ship <2 lbs. of stuff costing $24. I spent 2 hrs. trying to find a way to get cart to $50 for free shipping, but couldn't. Does it have some trick to get a reasonable shipping rate on a bundle of small items?

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post #26553 of 26579 Old 06-25-2015, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post
Does it have some trick to get a reasonable shipping rate on a bundle of small items?
Yes. Don't order direct from Monoprice.

Go to Amazon.com and search "monoprice cables" from all departments. Nearly all of the items are Prime eligible or free-shipping over $35. Many cables have the option of ordering from Monoprice through Amazon with free shipping. I know it's crazy, but when in Rome . . .
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post #26554 of 26579 Old 06-25-2015, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post
I started to order some cables and things from there night before last, but as I added little things to cart, shipping was piling up steeply, $18 cheapest method to ship <2 lbs. of stuff costing $24. I spent 2 hrs. trying to find a way to get cart to $50 for free shipping, but couldn't. Does it have some trick to get a reasonable shipping rate on a bundle of small items?
I wish. Monoprice has a lot of good features, but they seem to overprice the shipping for everything. I get daily spam from them, and some of the deals are good, but there must be a reason they are no longer a sponsor on the forum. They can still be found on DSLReports and the TiVo forums.
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post #26555 of 26579 Old 06-25-2015, 06:41 PM
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I decided to add an HDMI cable tester to my order, which more than doubled the total and pushed it over $50. After clicking the free shipping button, it recalculated what shipping for 4 lb. would have been to $9.92, less than 2/3 what it had estimated for half as many items.

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post #26556 of 26579 Old 06-25-2015, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post
I decided to add an HDMI cable tester to my order, which more than doubled the total and pushed it over $50. After clicking the free shipping button, it recalculated what shipping for 4 lb. would have been to $9.92, less than 2/3 what it had estimated for half as many items.
That's a handy tool. I have the RJ-45 version of that tester.
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post #26557 of 26579 Old 06-26-2015, 07:24 AM
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That's a handy tool. I have the RJ-45 version of that tester.
Does that tester tell you what speed the cable can handle? The only long cables I have are old and homemade - it would be nice to know if they can handle at least 100 mbps...

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post #26558 of 26579 Old 06-26-2015, 08:02 AM
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Does that tester tell you what speed the cable can handle? The only long cables I have are old and homemade - it would be nice to know if they can handle at least 100 mbps...
It doesn't test speed capability but it does test continuity, shorts, and for correct pin order in the terminators. If the cable passes those tests it's most likely fine for it's rated speed.

http://www.howtogeek.com/70494/what-...-should-i-use/
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post #26559 of 26579 Old 06-26-2015, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken.F View Post
It doesn't test speed capability but it does test continuity, shorts, and for correct pin order in the terminators. If the cable passes those tests it's most likely fine for it's rated speed.

http://www.howtogeek.com/70494/what-...-should-i-use/
Thanks - these were sloppily made with too much untwisting so I'm not sure if I can rely on the cable rating. I suppose I could probably find a piece of software to check connection speed...

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post #26560 of 26579 Old 06-26-2015, 08:55 AM
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I suppose I could probably find a piece of software to check connection speed...
I don't know if all switches do, but my 8 port D-Link and Trendnet gigabit switches report negotiated speed via the colors of the LEDs.

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post #26561 of 26579 Old 06-26-2015, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
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I don't know if all switches do, but my 8 port D-Link and Trendnet gigabit switches report negotiated speed via the colors of the LEDs.
Actually I remembered that I had one a while back when troubleshooting a TP-Link AC1200 adapter. It wasn't much good for that as it was telling me 867mbps whether my file transfer speeds were 5 MB/sec or 30 MB/sec...

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post #26562 of 26579 Old 06-26-2015, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by cc_in_oh View Post
Actually I remembered that I had one a while back when troubleshooting a TP-Link AC1200 adapter. It wasn't much good for that as it was telling me 867mbps whether my file transfer speeds were 5 MB/sec or 30 MB/sec...
I know what you mean. My Realtek 8812 has the same link speed. With Win 8.1 you can use Task Manager to see the actual speed if a PC is the source or destination. Win 7 makes you do the math.
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post #26563 of 26579 Old 06-26-2015, 11:46 AM
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I know what you mean. My Realtek 8812 has the same link speed. With Win 8.1 you can use Task Manager to see the actual speed if a PC is the source or destination. Win 7 makes you do the math.
Yeah this is on Win7. I received the Win10 upgrade icon - need to do some research to decide on it. I wish they included Vista - I'd put it on my old laptop to try it out...

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post #26564 of 26579 Old 06-27-2015, 01:59 PM
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Now, on Saturday their down to only 7 left on Amazon.
Boy that didn't take long!
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post #26565 of 26579 Old 06-27-2015, 04:57 PM
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Yeah this is on Win7. I received the Win10 upgrade icon - need to do some research to decide on it. I wish they included Vista - I'd put it on my old laptop to try it out...
We're off the rails here, but kill KB3035583. Google it.
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post #26566 of 26579 Old 06-28-2015, 10:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Walmart has a new page for Refurbished Mag 557, $259.98.

Page for NEW 557's is out of stock.


PHILIPS HD DVRs | *MAG/PHILIPS SD DVDRs* | DVDR/DVR COMPARISONS | POST-DVDR OPTIONS
*If you're logged in, links will only work if your User CP > Edit Options > Number of Posts to Show per Page is set to 30, the default.

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post #26567 of 26579 Old 06-29-2015, 02:01 PM
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Walmart has a new page for Refurbished Mag 557, $259.98.

Page for NEW 557's is out of stock.

Congrats to those who hopped on that deal! Didn't even last the weekend.
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post #26568 of 26579 Old 07-02-2015, 05:45 AM
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Good news. The 557 is back in stock at Àmazon. I now have delivery date of Friday March 27th.
Just a thread update, I just got an email that the 557 is back in stock at Home Depot. I looked it up and it has a very reasonable price of $278.
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post #26569 of 26579 Old 07-03-2015, 01:59 PM
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Just a thread update, I just got an email that the 557 is back in stock at Home Depot. I looked it up and it has a very reasonable price of $278.

Holy crap. Home Depot now sells DVD Recorders??

Pick one up w/ your mulch!
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post #26570 of 26579 Old Today, 10:18 AM
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Weird problem.

Hopefully someone will have an explanation and a solution.

Recently AMC aired all three BACK TO THE FUTURE movies back to back, the whole trilogy.

I recorded them at HQ for best picture quality, intending to edit out the commercials, then burn to DVD two different ways- One would be recording at SLP in real time, so all three movies fit on one disc. The other would be using the SP speed in real time, and recording one movie to each of three discs.

The editing went fine, but I notice something.

Often, when objects or people are moving, there's this series of horizontal lines that appear on the edge of whatever/whoever is moving.

The only other time I've seen this is when I recorded a movie in letterbox, burned it to DVD, then put the DVD recording on my hard drive and used software to crop out the black bars to make it true widescreen. The resulting recording had the same type of horizontal lines appearing with any movement.

The people at the videohelp.com website's forums told me I was dealing with interlacing (apparently showing up because I was stripping out the black bars and then blowing the picture up to make it true widescreen). They said I'd have to reprocess the video thru software that could de-interlace it. I did as suggested and the resulting video was fine. No more distortion/lines.

This is different, tho'. I recorded off the widescreen channel, and used HQ. No black bars, and the recording hasn't been near my computer. Right out of the box, the hard drive recording has the horizontal lines with any movement. Burning to DVD (SLP, all three films) hasn't helped. The funny lines are still there during playback.

Have any of you seen this and do you have any solution? I'm thinking I'm going to have to move all three films to my hard drive and do the deinterlacing thing again, but this shouldn't happen, should it?

Did I boo boo by recording at HQ?

I can't say the lines were there during the live recording output or not, because I used the timer and wasn't there, but I find it hard to believe they'd have aired the films like that. This has to be on my end.

The recorder is getting the HDMI output thru an HDMI to composite converter.

Could THAT have caused a problem? (Haven't seen it on anything else I've recorded.)

Any ideas/suggestions?
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post #26571 of 26579 Old Today, 10:29 AM
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The recorder is getting the HDMI output thru an HDMI to composite converter.

Could THAT have caused a problem? (Haven't seen it on anything else I've recorded.)
Every such converter I've used caused artifacts. Using the composite out on my Roku is typically disappointing as well. A recording can't be any better than it's source no matter how high the capability of the recorder.

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post #26572 of 26579 Old Today, 10:35 AM
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gastrof, sorry I can't help but I'm curious - would that give you better results than recording in SP and using high-speed dubbing?

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post #26573 of 26579 Old Today, 10:42 AM
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@gastrof ...a better description of the horizontal lines would be useful,but what you describe sounds an awfully lot like what i used to experience when i had Dish.
I originally thought it was an artifact of the converter and there was nothing i could do about it...but after cutting the cord and began streaming off the net,the horizontal lines were gone completely using the same converter(s) i normally use....so i figured it was caused by the Dish receiver...then another poster said he had the same problem,but he was on cable recording from an STB.

So my best guess is that your receiver/STB may be the culprit.
To test it record something off the net (or from anywhere that keeps the STB out of the loop) and through your converter (assuming you needed one) to the HDD and check to see if the horizontal lines are there.
If not,then it's probably caused by your STB...if it's the same problem i was having.

The problem is Not caused by your recording speed.

EDIT:Forgot to ask but,is this a one time problem or does it occur on all channels you record from??

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post #26574 of 26579 Old Today, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greaser View Post
@gastrof ...a better description of the horizontal lines would be useful,but what you describe sounds an awfully lot like what i used to experience when i had Dish.
I originally thought it was an artifact of the converter and there was nothing i could do about it...but after cutting the cord and began streaming off the net,the horizontal lines were gone completely using the same converter(s) i normally use....so i figured it was caused by the Dish receiver...then another poster said he had the same problem,but he was on cable recording from an STB.

So my best guess is that your receiver/STB may be the culprit.
To test it record something off the net (or from anywhere that keeps the STB out of the loop) and through your converter (assuming you needed one) to the HDD and check to see if the horizontal lines are there.
If not,then it's probably caused by your STB...if it's the same problem i was having.

The problem is Not caused by your recording speed.

EDIT:Forgot to ask but,is this a one time problem or does it occur on all channels you record from??
I have FiOS, so it's essentially cable. Odd thing is, except for the described problem with the conversion of a video from letterbox to true widescreen, this is the first time I've seen this. Normally my recordings are pretty good. That's why this was so strange.

Oddly enough, I'd recorded the trilogy off ABC FAMILY CHANNEL in January, and there was no such distortion.

To answer your question, it's like I said. As a person or object moved, horizontal lines would appear at the edge of the moving object or person. From top to bottom, a series of short horizontal lines, almost an echo of the previous position. Short, with gaps between them. One example is at the start of BTTF II, Marty is next to his new truck, and Jennifer shows up. Marty moves, and more visible on the left side than the right, all these short lines sort of followed him, appearing on that shot to be about an inch apart from one another, from his head to the bottom of the picture. I'd get a screen cap but I'm using a computer with Linux right now, and have limited resources to use.

I'm wondering if on my local FiOS service, maybe AMC HD is getting sort of cheated, with the frame rate being low or something.

I may move one of the movies to my Windows computer's hard drive, and try out the de-interlacing software I used before...see what happens then.

So annoying... All the time spent in editing out the breaks, and then letting the machine record the whole trilogy to DVD overnight (nearly six hours real time), and now the whole thing may be nearly useless.

Oh well...
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post #26575 of 26579 Old Today, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gastrof View Post
As a person or object moved, horizontal lines would appear at the edge of the moving object or person. From top to bottom, a series of short horizontal lines, almost an echo of the previous position. Short, with gaps between them. One example is at the start of BTTF II, Marty is next to his new truck, and Jennifer shows up. Marty moves, and more visible on the left side than the right, all these short lines sort of followed him, appearing on that shot to be about an inch apart from one another, from his head to the bottom of the picture.
I don't know if this will help you fix the problem, but it explains what it is you are seeing.
https://trac.handbrake.fr/wiki/Telecine
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post #26576 of 26579 Old Today, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post
Every such converter I've used caused artifacts. Using the composite out on my Roku is typically disappointing as well. A recording can't be any better than it's source no matter how high the capability of the recorder.
My results are usually pretty good. This is the first time I've seen this "out of the box".

Personally, things I've recorded off my Roku (using a COMPOSITE feed to the recorder) come out very good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cc_in_oh View Post
gastrof, sorry I can't help but I'm curious - would that give you better results than recording in SP and using high-speed dubbing?
The lines are there when I play back from the hard drive. That's why they show up on the DVD.

I used HQ so it'd be best quality to begin with. (I recently cleared a lot of hard drive space and had the luxury of not needing to record in SP.)

You can't high speed dub when you've edited to remove breaks, because the machine can't "stop on a dime" at high speed, and occasionally a frame or two of one of the breaks will remain between scenes and spoil the transition. Playback in real time when you're making a DVD avoids that problem. (This has been true since my first model of these recorders when they were still being sold under the Philips brand name.) That being the case, and since I wanted DVDs in both SP and SLP, using HQ for the original recording seemed the best move.

All for naught, it seems (for now). I guess the DVDs will have to be made off the ABC Family airings from January. (I'd figured AMC would be the better choice. Guess not.)
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post #26577 of 26579 Old Today, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by gastrof View Post
My results are usually pretty good. This is the first time I've seen this "out of the box".

Personally, things I've recorded off my Roku (using a COMPOSITE feed to the recorder) come out very good.



The lines are there when I play back from the hard drive. That's why they show up on the DVD.

I used HQ so it'd be best quality to begin with. (I recently cleared a lot of hard drive space and had the luxury of not needing to record in SP.)

You can't high speed dub when you've edited to remove breaks, because the machine can't "stop on a dime" at high speed, and occasionally a frame or two of one of the breaks will remain between scenes and spoil the transition. Playback in real time when you're making a DVD avoids that problem. (This has been true since my first model of these recorders when they were still being sold under the Philips brand name.) That being the case, and since I wanted DVDs in both SP and SLP, using HQ for the original recording seemed the best move.

All for naught, it seems (for now). I guess the DVDs will have to be made off the ABC Family airings from January. (I'd figured AMC would be the better choice. Guess not.)
Ah, yes, if you're going to real-time dub anyway then HQ would presumably be better - at least on the tuner - on a composite input I'm not sure if it would buy you much but worth a try.

AMC is tough to get clean HS dubs, though not as bad as BBCA. If the extraneous frames are a problem, you might consider editing software - HS dub to DVDRW, rip, edit and then burn. I do that with BBCA shows like Ripper Street that I think I might want to hang on to for a while.

My units are a 3576, 2160A & 515 - I generally start cuts a few frames early and end a few late - it's hardly noticeable unless there's speech starting in the first frame after the cut...

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post #26578 of 26579 Old Today, 08:31 PM
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Here are six screen shots that illustrate the problem...

I've realized that if those lines are on the original recording, and aren't showing up as the result of software editing the file, it's not likely de-interlacing will make a difference.

Can't make silk purse out of a sow's ear.

Oh, yeah. In case you're wondering, these lines appear in the moving/playing video. It's not just when you freeze-frame it.
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Last edited by gastrof; Today at 08:35 PM.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cc_in_oh View Post
Ah, yes, if you're going to real-time dub anyway then HQ would presumably be better - at least on the tuner - on a composite input I'm not sure if it would buy you much but worth a try...
Choosing HQ wasn't due to the source. It was just to make sure I got the best possible picture, and you can see the difference even with a composite source.

High speed dubbing was avoided due to the problem with "can't stop on a dime" high speed dubs of edited material.

Yeah, you can try stopping or ending a few frames early or late, but that's too risky. Once you to an edit, there's no going back, and if you cut something off, the whole recording is wrecked, and you don't really know how the early/late editing works until after you do a high speed dub. By then, the original recording is long gone.

I use real time dubbing to make sure the edits are clean.
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