Magnavox 557, 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 913 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #27361 of 27367 Old 08-27-2016, 11:25 AM - Thread Starter
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post #27362 of 27367 Old 08-27-2016, 11:36 AM
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I've been doing the Soft Resets and still have the same problem. Should I do a Hard Reset?
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post #27363 of 27367 Old 08-27-2016, 11:49 AM
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[OT]
Quote:
Originally Posted by gastrof View Post
One of my Monoprice HDMI to composite/s-video converters is starting to go belly up... I think.

Very slight horizontal lines thru the screen. (Not there on a direct HDMI feed.) The one in my living room is still working fine, but not the bedroom machine's converter.

Could this be another power supply issue? I don't want to change the power supply for a new one only to have the same thing happen. Was wondering if anyone's seen their Monoprice converter develop this symptom.
Swapping the wall warts between BR & LR ought to tell you if it's a PS problem, if they're both 5V 1.0A, which is typical for these.

I don't remember if any of my converters ever had symptoms like you see, but I have had multiple wall warts go belly up. I successfully fixed at least two, at least one of which did come from Monoprice. Those wall warts are made with junk brand caps that can be expected not to last in continuous use. I also bought a replacement wall wart from Mouser in December 2014 that still works. Caps for repair came from Mouser and/or Digi-Key. I used 470uF 16V 5mm or 470uF 16V 3.5mm from Mouser in at least two of those I fixed.

How I got them apart I don't remember any more. I may have found some instructions on badcaps.net. I used rubber bands to super glue them back together after testing to see the repairs worked, but tie wraps should work well enough too.

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post #27364 of 27367 Old Yesterday, 07:12 AM
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Please forget I said anything.


I don't know what I was thinking that motivated me to post on this forum.

Last edited by weavermovies; Yesterday at 12:02 PM.
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post #27365 of 27367 Old Yesterday, 08:24 AM
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Step 3 - While watching the "Front Panel Display", with one hand, press and HOLD DOWN the "Power Button" as you then simultaneously plug in the power cord with the other hand. If this works, in a few short seconds, you will see "P-On" appear in the display.
Just to clarify the clarification of the already clear instructions, you do not "simultaneously" press the button while plugging it in. You press and hold the button, and while still holding the button you then plug the unit in. If you try to press the button and plug it in simultaneously you only have a 50% chance of getting it right.
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post #27366 of 27367 Old Today, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post
[OT]


Swapping the wall warts between BR & LR ought to tell you if it's a PS problem, if they're both 5V 1.0A, which is typical for these.

I don't remember if any of my converters ever had symptoms like you see, but I have had multiple wall warts go belly up. I successfully fixed at least two, at least one of which did come from Monoprice. Those wall warts are made with junk brand caps that can be expected not to last in continuous use. I also bought a replacement wall wart from Mouser in December 2014 that still works. Caps for repair came from Mouser and/or Digi-Key. I used 470uF 16V 5mm or 470uF 16V 3.5mm from Mouser in at least two of those I fixed.

How I got them apart I don't remember any more. I may have found some instructions on badcaps.net. I used rubber bands to super glue them back together after testing to see the repairs worked, but tie wraps should work well enough too.
I'm afraid it's turned out to not be the converter. I had a second set of composite/audio cables going in thru the jacks on the front, and it turns out they're also producing a picture with the lines.

So now that machine has TWO problems. It's still losing its clock each time it's turned off, and now it can't even get a decent picture coming in thru the yellow RCA jacks. I mean, the picture is still viewable, but it looks like you're getting an old analog broadcast that's just a little too far away for a perfect picture, so there's a little interference. I don't want to record that.

Does anyone know of a place we can send a 515 to get it repaired? Also, in case that is the case and they still have refurb units sitting around and try to send one of those to me in place of repairing mine, would my current hard drive work in that (would the shows recorded be playable)? I seem to recall something about the recordings being tied to the machine they were made on. Maybe I'm thinking TiVo.

CAN you move a drive from one 515 to another and still play your recordings back?

Any help anyone can be...

I'm tempted to just go and buy one of the HD units from Amazon or Wal-Mart, and just move shows on the old machine to DVD, then junk it.

I just hate to do that, tho', if the machine can be fixed and the recordings still played.
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post #27367 of 27367 Old Today, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post
I heard back from Masaki Nagamine at parts@funaiservice.com:

On 8/21/2016 12:31 PM, User1 wrote:
I assume the soldered fuse in a MDR533H/F7 is not user-replaceable?

Can you service a "dead" unit for which the user has tried all Magnavox-recommended "fixes."

Hello
Please let us know which parts would you like to replace ?
FSC Parts
I guess if I open the machine, I can find fuse part numbers somewhere? I may also call a repair place this week to see if they can give me some idea on a price to service this.
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