Magnavox 557, 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 917 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews

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post #27481 of 27503 Old 11-24-2016, 12:15 PM
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I see Walmart has the Mag 557 back for the "bargain" price of $399. It used to sell for $200-$299. Tis the season for price gouging in America.
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post #27482 of 27503 Old 11-24-2016, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by joekoler View Post
I see Walmart has the Mag 557 back for the "bargain" price of $399. It used to sell for $200-$299. Tis the season for price gouging in America.
I didn't know they still made the 557? They have the 867 for $280 which seems fairly reasonable...
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post #27483 of 27503 Old 11-29-2016, 12:45 PM
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I had a weird power failure at my house today. The power went out and came back on about 6 times in 30 seconds, then it stayed out for about 5 minutes. After the 5 minute outage the power came back on for a few seconds and went out again, then a few seconds later it came back on and stayed on. A little while later I noticed my 513 and 515 were both dead. No display on their front panels and they wouldn't respond to the power button. Thanks to wajo and his help file I got both of them working again with a soft-reset.
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post #27484 of 27503 Old 11-29-2016, 02:20 PM
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I had a weird power failure at my house today. The power went out and came back on about ... times ...
This is why some people use a UPS instead of a surge suppressor or no power protection at all. To us it is not worth the risk of losing equipment we couldn't replace with directly comparable equivalent, if at all.
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...Thanks to wajo and his help file I got both of them working again with a soft-reset.
Consider yourself lucky.
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post #27485 of 27503 Old 11-29-2016, 02:32 PM
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This is why some people use a UPS instead of a surge suppressor or no power protection at all. To us it is not worth the risk of losing equipment we couldn't replace with directly comparable equivalent, if at all.
That's good advice. I have my computer, server, NAS, and all of my network gear on UPSs but I don't use the recorders enough to justify the cost of getting two more of them. I should just unplug them when not in use.

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post #27486 of 27503 Old 11-29-2016, 04:15 PM
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I should just unplug them when not in use.
Before the digital age took over satellite TV, it was routinely recommended to unplug everything when leaving home. Now I turn off 5 of my 7 SD recorders only when I expect a power outage to outlast the UPS batteries. IOW, 5 are always on, the other 2 infrequently on. Timer reprogramming after powerdown gets too complicated here to not have everything on backup power.

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post #27487 of 27503 Old 11-30-2016, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by wajo View Post
2195 for Philips and 1056 for Mags, as described here.

If you can't get 60 buttons learned, you may have to clear/reset button commands, as described on pg 14 of the User Manual (link in help file).
I couldn't get either device code to work in TV mode - maybe it's smart enough to only scan TV models?

Fortunately factory resets freed up enough memory to learn all commands, so I set one up for the 3576 and the other for the 2160A. 3 separate remotes is a bit cumbersome but otherwise working fine...

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post #27488 of 27503 Old 11-30-2016, 10:27 AM - Thread Starter
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I couldn't get either device code to work in TV mode - maybe it's smart enough to only scan TV models?

Fortunately factory resets freed up enough memory to learn all commands, so I set one up for the 3576 and the other for the 2160A. 3 separate remotes is a bit cumbersome but otherwise working fine...
It might be "easier" to use the OEM remotes for each unit... they don't interfere with each other?
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post #27489 of 27503 Old 11-30-2016, 11:06 AM
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It might be "easier" to use the OEM remotes for each unit... they don't interfere with each other?
I only got the Philips after the OEM remotes got to be too hard to use (worn-out OK buttons). There's never been any interference between the 3576 and 2160A...

The first Philips lasted years, maybe 5 or 6, before developing this problem. The new one lasted less than a year, and with much lower usage. I wouldn't recommend it to anyone at this point...

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post #27490 of 27503 Old 12-03-2016, 11:13 PM
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Guys, can anyone tell me please where I can get another NB300UD remote? (For a 2160A). I still can't find one in searches. This one did not get wet in the flood, but for some reason it hasn't worked the same since and now some buttons have stopped working. I've taken it apart and cleaned it, no help!

Thanks.

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post #27491 of 27503 Old 12-04-2016, 04:14 AM
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3575 hard drive size upgrade

I am checking to see if it is possible to upgrade the size of the hard drive on a 3575h without losing the recordings. I assume it isn't possible but wanted to check first.
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post #27492 of 27503 Old 12-04-2016, 08:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Clint S. View Post
Guys, can anyone tell me please where I can get another NB300UD remote? (For a 2160A). I still can't find one in searches. This one did not get wet in the flood, but for some reason it hasn't worked the same since and now some buttons have stopped working. I've taken it apart and cleaned it, no help!
The OEM remote NC003UD can be found at Amazon and prob. other places as well.
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post #27493 of 27503 Old 12-04-2016, 08:09 AM - Thread Starter
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I am checking to see if it is possible to upgrade the size of the hard drive on a 3575h without losing the recordings. I assume it isn't possible but wanted to check first.
Info on HW replacement is here.

Info on file transfer is here.

Bottom line is that HDD replacement is relatively straightforward but file transfer is not.
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post #27494 of 27503 Old 12-04-2016, 10:22 PM
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The OEM remote NC003UD can be found at Amazon and prob. other places as well.
Thanks for the reply. Yeah I saw that one yesterday but it's completely different from mine because mine is an NB300UD. FWIW, below that # is "1VM220543". I tried searching for it and only see a handful of results, nothing for sale except one that costs a fortune. http://mandisremotes.com/im/mandos/T...ba_SER0345.jpg . It's still not the exact same remote, it's closer than the one you linked but still some significant differences! This is odd, and most troubling.

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post #27495 of 27503 Old Yesterday, 02:53 AM
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Guys, can anyone tell me please where I can get another NB300UD remote? (For a 2160A). I still can't find one in searches.
http://www.sylvania.newremotecontrol...catnum=NB345UD looks like only has one button differently labeled, and claims interchangeable. If I hadn't already bought an extra NB820UD before the post-515 supply of them became exhausted, I might be in the same boat needing one. However, the new one is still unused ATM, because I had 4 that came with 2160s & 513s and I haven't worn them all out yet. In fact, one of the four is still like brand new, in addition to the one that is brand new, plus the rarely used NC003 that came with my 515.
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This one did not get wet in the flood, but for some reason it hasn't worked the same since and now some buttons have stopped working. I've taken it apart and cleaned it, no help!
Cleaned how? I just took my dysfunctional #3 apart and was horrified how nasty it had gotten inside in spite of my using it only with reasonably clean or cleaner fingers, and no one else around to make it grimy. I washed the board with 90% alcohol, the plastic halves with dishwater and stiff brush, and the keypad with soapy water and a soft brush. Now all are drying in warm places where fans are blowing before I will reassemble with hope to have restored operation for at least a couple more years.

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post #27496 of 27503 Old Yesterday, 04:04 AM
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Guys, can anyone tell me please where I can get another NB300UD remote? (For a 2160A). I still can't find one in searches.
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http://www.sylvania.newremotecontrol...catnum=NB345UD looks like only has one button differently labeled, and claims interchangeable.
Hey thanks, that's the closest one I've seen yet. Unfortunately that one different button is a doosey.....to the upper right of the 'circle' buttons, "Top Menu", is that still "Title" (as on mine*) or are they reversed with that opposite button "Menu List"? ("Disc Menu" on mine when I don't even use). *I use that upper right button a lot on mine so that would be most difficult getting used to that.

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However, the new one is still unused ATM, because I had 4 that came with 2160s & 513s and I haven't worn them all out yet. In fact, one of the four is still like brand new, in addition to the one that is brand new, plus the rarely used NC003 that came with my 515.
Are you saying that you have one just like mine that you don't need?

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This one did not get wet in the flood, but for some reason it hasn't worked the same since and now some buttons have stopped working. I've taken it apart and cleaned it, no help!
Quote:
Cleaned how? I just took my dysfunctional #3 apart and was horrified how nasty it had gotten inside in spite of my using it only with reasonably clean or cleaner fingers, and no one else around to make it grimy. I washed the board with 90% alcohol, the plastic halves with dishwater and stiff brush, and the keypad with soapy water and a soft brush. Now all are drying in warm places where fans are blowing before I will reassemble with hope to have restored operation for at least a couple more years.
Mine was wet on the inside for some strange reason. When I was still in the hotel, I took it apart and wiped down the PCB and keypad with alcohol (70%) but that didn't do much. A few days ago I did the pencil eraser thing on the PCB and wiped the parts again but with 91% alcohol. (I usually used a Dremel, but some evil SOB through away ALL of my Dremel tools, accessories and attachments!) To get it to work, I had to do "the tin foil thing", I was shocked that worked because in the past with other remotes I've used a conductive pen, but that never worked. It would be a PITA to have to meticulously cut out exact sizes of aluminium foil then glue to them to each frickin' pad! I've been those pad replacement repair kits, but they're all square (I need some rectangular) and most are too big for these tiny pads. I also have some of that 'black goop' carbon that you put on the pads to "rejuvenate" them, but I can't find it right now (can't find anything for that matter) and the last time I used it that didn't work very well.

God Bless,
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post #27497 of 27503 Old Yesterday, 08:01 AM
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Hey thanks, that's the closest one I've seen yet. Unfortunately that one different button is a doosey.....to the upper right of the 'circle' buttons, "Top Menu", is that still "Title" (as on mine*) or are they reversed with that opposite button "Menu List"? ("Disc Menu" on mine when I don't even use). *I use that upper right button a lot on mine so that would be most difficult getting used to that.
I'm pretty sure it's only the label that's different, not the code sent. Magnavox and Sylvania are apparently both aliases for Funai. IOW, "top menu" = "title" and "menu/list" = "disc menu". Anyway, even if that wasn't the case, circuit boards usually don't wear out, only the button pads do, and the button pads appear to be physical twins other than inverted colors.

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Are you saying that you have one just like mine that you don't need?
Don't need yet, not don't need. Surely the one I took apart last night will eventually become useless, just like two here already have.

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Mine was wet on the inside for some strange reason. When I was still in the hotel, I took it apart and wiped down the PCB and keypad with alcohol (70%) but that didn't do much. A few days ago I did the pencil eraser thing on the PCB and wiped the parts again but with 91% alcohol. (I usually used a Dremel, but some evil SOB through away ALL of my Dremel tools, accessories and attachments!) To get it to work, I had to do "the tin foil thing", I was shocked that worked because in the past with other remotes I've used a conductive pen, but that never worked. It would be a PITA to have to meticulously cut out exact sizes of aluminium foil then glue to them to each frickin' pad! I've been those pad replacement repair kits, but they're all square (I need some rectangular) and most are too big for these tiny pads. I also have some of that 'black goop' carbon that you put on the pads to "rejuvenate" them, but I can't find it right now (can't find anything for that matter) and the last time I used it that didn't work very well.
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post #27498 of 27503 Old Yesterday, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by NewABC
I came across this disk on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/AV-GP-500-Har...rds=WD5000Audx. Is this equivalent to the Newegg disk you pointed to? If it is I'd get this from Amazon as it will give me free shipping on other items I'm ordering.

Originally Posted by mrmazda
Looks right to me.

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Thanks. I'll order it.
Due to some issues I have not been able to order this yet https://www.amazon.com/AV-GP-500-Hard-Drive-WD5000AUDX/dp/B006IMDZVU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1476403258&sr =1-1&keywords=WD5000Audx&tag=vs-avsforum-convert-20 but will this week

The description says it will record 60 hours of HD video. Is that equivalent to the 64 HQ hours listed in the MDR513 manual? I always record in SP Mode so if this is equivalent I should get close to the 120 hours in the 513 specs. Am I understanding this correctly?

Thank you.

Last edited by NewABC; Yesterday at 02:28 PM. Reason: left something out
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post #27499 of 27503 Old Yesterday, 04:20 PM - Thread Starter
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... Due to some issues I have not been able to order this yet https://www.amazon.com/AV-GP-500-Hard-Drive-WD5000AUDX/dp/B006IMDZVU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1476403258&sr =1-1&keywords=WD5000Audx&tag=vs-avsforum-convert-20 but will this week

The description says it will record 60 hours of HD video. Is that equivalent to the 64 HQ hours listed in the MDR513 manual? I always record in SP Mode so if this is equivalent I should get close to the 120 hours in the 513 specs. Am I understanding this correctly?
No, the 64 HQ hours for the 513 is SD hours, not HD, and the 513 has a 320GB HDD vs 500GB for that Amazon HDD model.
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post #27500 of 27503 Old Yesterday, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post
I'm pretty sure it's only the label that's different, not the code sent. Magnavox and Sylvania are apparently both aliases for Funai. IOW, "top menu" = "title" and "menu/list" = "disc menu". Anyway, even if that wasn't the case, circuit boards usually don't wear out, only the button pads do, and the button pads appear to be physical twins other than inverted colors.
I found a cheaper by about $2 NB345UD at http://www.remotehound.com/sylvania-...ud-remote.html . Note in the description it lists a "H2160SL9" (Sylvania # I think), mine is technically known as "H2160MW9 A". I assume that would work. ?


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Don't need yet, not don't need. Surely the one I took apart last night will eventually become useless, just like two here already have.



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Looks like all of these kinds of products have the same issue of flaking:
https://www.amazon.com/product-revie...acr_dpx_hist_1
Tin foil may actually be the best thing, or those new pad kits. I don't know if glitter is conductive, but if it is one may be able to find the right sizes of it, that would be easier than having to do 'surgery' on tin foil. I don't understand how using new pads could work because you leave the existing pads in place, therefore that dramatically increases the overall effective thickness of the 'moving structure', which I would think makes the end thickness too great so that the pad would be making contact with the PCB area all the time! Are they so thin that this wouldn't be the case?

EDIT: [slaps forehead] I just noticed something......on the FRONT of my remote is, get this, "NB820"! I can't remember ever seeing a remote model # on the front of a remote! But when I look up that model # naturally no one has it yet.

God Bless,
-Clint

Last edited by Clint S.; Today at 12:29 AM.
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post #27501 of 27503 Old Today, 01:31 AM
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I found a cheaper by about $2 NB345UD at http://www.remotehound.com/sylvania-...ud-remote.html .
Whether really cheaper depends on shipping rates. It would only be cheaper if rates match within $2. The better buy might be the one physically closer so to be cheaper to return if necessary.

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Note in the description it lists a "H2160SL9" (Sylvania # I think), mine is technically known as "H2160MW9 A". I assume that would work. ?
Seems like a reasonable assumption, but nothing like a guarantee. Note that the 160 portion of the model number is almost certainly derived from the HD size being 160MiB - the prior model had an 80GiB HD and model 2080. The "2" might mean SATA II, or ATA type 2 (aka SATA), but I more suspect it refers to second generation of Funai hard disk recorders.

Quote:
Looks like all of these kinds of products have the same issue of flaking:
https://www.amazon.com/product-revie...acr_dpx_hist_1
Tin foil may actually be the best thing, or those new pad kits.
"New pad kit"?????

Quote:
...I don't understand how using new pads could work because you leave the existing pads in place, therefore that dramatically increases the overall effective thickness of the 'moving structure', which I would think makes the end thickness too great so that the pad would be making contact with the PCB area all the time! Are they so thin that this wouldn't be the case?
I suppose there must be some models of remotes where extra thickness could be a problem, but if you spend the rest of your life speculating instead of trying, progress is unlikely. $20 won't buy much of anything any more, 1/2 tank of gas or 1/2 a month's water/sewer bill, 1/5 of a a grocery cart load, a haircut, 40% of a month's Internet service, 10 minutes of a car mechanic's time....

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EDIT: [slaps forehead] I just noticed something......on the FRONT of my remote is, get this, "NB820"! I can't remember ever seeing a remote model # on the front of a remote! But when I look up that model # naturally no one has it yet.
NB820 is the number on the one I bought in 2011 and the 4 that came with recorders, while the Funai bag it came in when I bought one has SVC104306 and NB820UD both on it. Probably because of this thread, they were easy to buy from Funai, and because they are so easy to wear out, Funai ran out fairly quickly after it switched to the NC003 for the MDR515H/F7. The alternatives are probably still available because of lower popularity of those recorders among heavy users such as many of us, and/or for newer model recorders.

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Whether really cheaper depends on shipping rates. It would only be cheaper if rates match within $2. The better buy might be the one physically closer so to be cheaper to return if necessary.
Well of course shipping is always taken into consideration, without it the cost is irrelevant. I was just able to find the identical NB820 for $27.90 shipped, (described as "BRAND NEW"). Now they'll tell me (illiterately): "Uhhh.....we don't got it".


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"New pad kit"?????
That looks like you don't know what that means, but you apparently do from looking at the rest of your post.

I'll get that one NB820, then I'll also try and fix this one. I'll try the 'conductive glitter' first, if I can find some that's conductive. I also saw some people actually selling "Wire Glue" (actually on the label) as keypad repair! I have some of that, but like I mentioned I tried a conductive pen before and that didn't work. I'll have to test some methods on this one once I get the replacement. Thanks for your replies.

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post #27503 of 27503 Old Today, 07:09 AM
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No, the 64 HQ hours for the 513 is SD hours, not HD, and the 513 has a 320GB HDD vs 500GB for that Amazon HDD model.
Thank you, wajo. So then as it's larger I should still get at least the 129 SP hours, which is all that I'm looking for. Am I understanding this right?
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