I would like to offer my experience with the LHB975 wireless speaker synchronization problem.
After about 18 months I noticed that my rear speakers no longer worked. The red light on the rear receiver would not turn blue. After several tries going through the sync procedure in the owner's manual without success, I turned to the internet for some help. Although I found dozens of people with this problem (some had the sync problem with both the sub-woofer and the rear speakers), the vast majority had it with only with one or the other. Since the unit was out of warranty, (LG will not recognize this as a defect in the system and extend the warranty) I had no choice but to do it myself, or pay some exorbitant amount to have it fixed.
As you read this, keep in mind that this fix is for units that either one or the other wireless device is not working. If both are not working the problem probably lies somewhere else.
It turns out that the fix is quite simple if you have a little mechanical ability. The toughest part of the fix is opening the rear wireless receiver! The sub-woofer is very easy to open. (Do I have to tell you to unplug the units you are working on?)
The key to this fix if the fact that BOTH devices use the same wireless receiver card (LG P/N: EBR65859702) to receive their signal. This card is easily identified on the receiver board in that it is elevated, held on by 3 silver screws and is connected by a ribbon cable. To confirm that this part is the problem, simply swap the cards between the devices (make sure you identify the suspected bad one with a piece of tape to prevent them from getting mixed up). If the problem is fixed by swapping the cards, simply order another (about $50 + shipping, not cheap, but beats sending it out).
For an exploded diagram of these units and a parts list, go to the Sears parts web site.
Hope you have the same success I did.
I contacted LG, who refused to sell me the part, nor will they warranty it. They require I ship it to them on my own dime, pay $69.99 for the diagnostic, pay for the part AND the labour, and pay for return shipping. I have no words.
I went a step farther and contact Eleven Engineering, the manufacturer (Canadian) of the actual card. They will not deal with consumers, but knew immediatley that I was calling about the LG card. Not good.
My question is: how did you get the part number? It does not match info on my card, despite the fact that my card is from the LBH975 woofer. The sears site has no photo nor any alternative info.
Just want to be sure before I drop $75 on this fix. Thanks!
EBR65859702 (this is the LG P/N not the Eleven Engineering #).
These parts are out of stock with Sears (probably because of the high failure rate) but if you Google the P/N you can find it elsewhere.
You can get it for $45.02 + $7 shipping at "appliancepartspros.com"
Let me know how it goes.
Hopefully the next card will work. Where did you get it from, and how was their customer service?
Thanks for sharing your experience. Hope the part continues to work.
Not sure what you mean by "moving around a bit", but assuming that you are not bouncing it around it should be fine. The only way to see if the wireless card has failed, is to do what I have suggested above.
Let us know your outcome.
Can anyone else who has done it help him?
I'm not sure I understand the relationship between the subwoofer sound card and the wireless receiver. From what I've inferred from this thread...you can have a bad sound card in the subwoofer that affects the wireless receiver but doesn't affect the subwoofer..correct? I replaced the card in my subwoofer, but my wireless is still no go. Is it correct to assume either it's a faulty card in the receiver and/or a faulty new card in the subwoofer?
Since you already have a new wireless card, the experiment you did will only confirm if your new wireless card is good (you didn't say if your sub continued to work with the new card in it, but I'll assume that it did since you didn't say it stopped working). Now you have to go the next step and put it in your rear wireless receiver.
Sorry to say that the wireless enclosure is several levels above the Cheese Doodles bag, but take your time, don't get frustrated, and it will happen. Remember you can flex it a little to get the tabs to release. Once you get one started the others will be easier. Good luck.
"If so, that means I didn't need to replace the original card because my sub-wooferer was working prior to the new card." Yes
"So, if your fix is destined to work for me, it simply means now that the wireless card is bad...am I getting this?" No
What this means is that you have 2 known good wireless cards, that if installed in your rear wireless receiver it might fix the problem. If it doesn't the problem is elsewhere (I estimate that you have a 90% chance of fixing it with the card replacement however).
As I stated before, the idea behind the exercise is that by swapping the cards you can figure out if the problem is in the wireless card (because the problem will follow the bad card) or elsewhere if the problem in the rear wireless receiver persists after the swap (thus saving you from buying a part that you don't need).
So, since you already bought a replacement card and tested it (by putting it in the sub-woofer and it works), simply put the card (either one) in the rear receiver and if the existing card in it is bad this will fix it. Remember, you might have to do the synchronization procedure (in the user manual) after you replace the card.
Let us know if it works.
My sub wouldn't sync, and after a few hours of troubleshooting, I came across this, and knew what you were talking about, because I had already opened up the wireless reciever, and saw the adapter card inside.
It took me a total of 3 minutes to swap them, and viola! Problem solved. And since I'd rather have bass than rear speakers (until the new part arrives) I just left it as is.
Genious! Thank you so much for posting this!
It just arrived, and I just installed it. I do believe I have an OBF (out of box failure) but wanted to post here to confirm/get any thoughts.
The new card operates totally different from the original bad card. The "new" one, after installation, operates as follows. When the main unit is turned on, the red led on the wireless receiver blinks red constantly. When I turn the main unit off, the red light on the wireless receiver seems to blink steady for 10 blinks, followed by a very short pause, then 10 more red blinks.....repeat.
I of course attempted to pair them, which is unsuccessful.
So I hope I didn't just piss away 50 bucks. Looks like a got a bad card. I hope they take it back!
I've had to go through Newark for the RMA. So far, they've been fairly easy to work with. They may not even want the bad one back. I'll update again once it's all resolved.
Apparently the new card is NOT bad after all, even though it won't work... Let me explain. Apparently the new card must operate at the same frequency as the card in my bass module. Therefore, I can get one, or the other to work individually, as long as the other is unplugged. If I unplug the bass mod, I can sync the wireless adapter, and it will turn blue. Then if I plug the bass mod in, and do another sync, the bass mod will turn blue, and the wireless receiver will turn red. I can get sound from the rear speakers when the bass is unplugged, and vice versa.
I do not see any identifying markings on the cards that says what frequency they operate on, but this is the only answer I can come up with.
Any thoughts on this? Has anyone else experienced something similar?
So like I said, the adapter is good, but I can't use it.