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post #1 of 33 Old 01-30-2013, 07:32 AM - Thread Starter
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This system is actually for a family member's TV, so it doesn't have to be extravagant, but we hooked up my brother's LG BH6820SW 5.1 surround sound to watch the Rolex 24 Hours and it was pretty "stale" in audio quality and we had it turned up as loud as it would go and it still wasn't that loud even though it is supposedly 1000W. We watched some other content and it was louder, but not quite as nice as I would like since it was still "stale" and sounded "hollow". The only pro of his LG system is it had the "wireless" receiver for the rear speakers which is preferable as I don't know how I would route the wiring back everywhere for the rear speakers.

The room is 24'x13' with the TV and one of the couches being 13' back from the 24' length of the room facing the TV. Our budget is $300-ish and I was looking at the:
Onkyo S3500 5.1
Yamaha YHT-397 5.1

For as much as I know about TVs, I'm pretty much a total and complete moron when it comes to home audio...I won't deny it. I have no clue about most of it aside from setting up the basic stuff. I'm open minded with input and options, so if anybody could point me in the right direction with some pointers or some suggestions, I would greatly appreciate it.
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post #2 of 33 Old 01-30-2013, 08:50 AM
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I have the Yamaha system (actually the 395) and it works very well for our listening environment. The speakers will be upgraded this year but as an entry level system, it's pretty solid. Our room and seating arrangement is similar to yours. The Yamaha and Onkyo listed do not have wireless speakers but you already know that. Onkyo makes decent systems but there were a few reports of the 3500 having issues (getting overly hot I think).
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post #3 of 33 Old 02-01-2013, 08:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. I ordered the Yamaha YHT-397. The active powered 8" sub had positive reviews and the receiver has most of what I would need. Unlike the Onkyo, there weren't too many reviews on the Yamaha getting overly hot, although I know all receivers can to an extent. The YPAO calibration mic was also a selling point as the room this is being set in is a very funky room in how it is set up and doing it all entirely by feel would be a process.

The system is coming in the mail, but I read the manuals and it says the speakers are rated at 6 ohms and the receiver is set at 8 ohms. Should I leave the receiver at 8 ohms or should I move it to 6 ohms? What are the pros and cons of doing so?
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post #4 of 33 Old 02-01-2013, 09:51 PM
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If the receiver is like mine (RX-V371) then one, it won't get hot if you give it proper ventilation (and we use ours every time we watch tv) and two, you can select to run it at 8 ohms or 6 ohms. The speakers are rated at 6 ohms but will run just fine at 8 ohms. I prefer to run mine at 8 ohms. The basic rule of thumb is that the lower the ohms for the speakers, the "louder" they will be, and vice versa. However, running them at 6 ohms puts more of a demand on the speakers which affects their efficiency, especially on the smaller-sized speakers that come with the HTiBs. Running them at 8 ohms also puts less demand on the receiver (less heat produced). So, 6 ohms gives you 100W per channel and 8 ohms gives you 80W per channel, something like that. Setting your x-overs is really important for the speakers that come with it as well. Post back when you get it setup. Use Certified High Speed HDMI cables from someplace like Monoprice, MediaBridge, Blue Jeans, etc. You don't need to spend a fortune on the overpriced "M" brand. If you run your system at 8 ohms, 16AWG wire will be fine depending on the distances.
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post #5 of 33 Old 02-02-2013, 08:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post

If the receiver is like mine (RX-V371) then one, it won't get hot if you give it proper ventilation (and we use ours every time we watch tv) and two, you can select to run it at 8 ohms or 6 ohms. The speakers are rated at 6 ohms but will run just fine at 8 ohms. I prefer to run mine at 8 ohms. The basic rule of thumb is that the lower the ohms for the speakers, the "louder" they will be, and vice versa. However, running them at 6 ohms puts more of a demand on the speakers which affects their efficiency, especially on the smaller-sized speakers that come with the HTiBs. Running them at 8 ohms also puts less demand on the receiver (less heat produced). So, 6 ohms gives you 100W per channel and 8 ohms gives you 80W per channel, something like that. Setting your x-overs is really important for the speakers that come with it as well. Post back when you get it setup. Use Certified High Speed HDMI cables from someplace like Monoprice, MediaBridge, Blue Jeans, etc. You don't need to spend a fortune on the overpriced "M" brand. If you run your system at 8 ohms, 16AWG wire will be fine depending on the distances.

I think it's the HTR-3065 receiver, but oh well. I kind of figured that was how it worked, but wasn't sure. I might play with it just to see the difference between the 6 and 8 and then probably leave it at 8 for less heat and longer speaker life. Essentially, just the similar idea of forced induction on a car induction by putting more power and stress, by virtue, it puts more stress on internals over time.

We already have some HDMI's for hook ups. I ordered off amazon and picked up a 100ft spool of the RCA 16 guage copper clad aluminium wire as I think my longest runs will be about 35ft as I'm running down through the floor and along the basement ceiling and then back up through the floor again. We ordered the simple Mediabridge 1.4 HDMI cable off Amazon for $10. One thing I DO KNOW from my TV experiences is the likes of Monster should be federally prosecuted for the amount of price gouging they carry out on the public. mad.gif I also picked up some of the $40 Scientific Atlantic adjustable speaker stands for the rear speakers. I'll probably end up getting something to elevate the front speakers too down the line when I figure out how I'm going to place them as the 65" TV is between 2 doorways and there is little room on each side, so I'm waiting on the father to purchase his TV stand for the TV to judge if I want to get another pair of those speaker stands or something shorter to place on top of the TV stand itself if the stand is wide enough to accommodate it. I'm researching some of the setup stuff now in terms of crossover frequencies/speaker placement as it's an odd room to say the least with the doorways, furniture placement and transitions to hardwood and rugs. biggrin.gif
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post #6 of 33 Old 02-02-2013, 10:55 AM
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The HTR-3065 is the receiver designation for the YHT-397 HTiB system. My receiver is the HTR-3064 for the YHT-395 HTiB system but it's actually the RX-V371 standalone receiver, and I think yours is the RX-V375. Basically identical but you have the YPAO auto-cal system and an iPod port on the front (?).

I use the MediaBridge HDMI cables as well and have been very happy with them. Keep in mind that the 1.4 is the hardware designation, not the cable designation. High Speed is the only thing you need to concern yourself with.

I also bought the Atlantic speaker stands (4) and they've been very steady, even on a carpeted floor. I did place a small plastic container (kinda like a tupperware dish) underneath the sub to elevate it a bit off of the carpeted floor (about 2 or 3 inches) and that has worked very well. Originally I had the front R/L sitting to either side of the tv, which is on a media console, but the distance between them wasn't far enough so I bought the two extra stands. You want your front R/L to be at least 6' - 10' apart with the C channel directly in the middle. There was a noticeable difference in the audio quality, at least to me, in separating them by about 1.5' further apart on each side from where they originally were. We have the same speakers (I'm upgrading my fronts to probably MLT-2s later on this year) so I can send you my settings as far as x-overs go as a starter if you want. Because the speakers have small drivers, there really isn't much you can do but I can show you how to get as much as you possibly can out of them, and why.

Use this link to determine your speaker wire: http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm


I agree about Monster. And so do a lot of other people.
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post #7 of 33 Old 02-03-2013, 10:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post

The HTR-3065 is the receiver designation for the YHT-397 HTiB system. My receiver is the HTR-3064 for the YHT-395 HTiB system but it's actually the RX-V371 standalone receiver, and I think yours is the RX-V375. Basically identical but you have the YPAO auto-cal system and an iPod port on the front (?).

I use the MediaBridge HDMI cables as well and have been very happy with them. Keep in mind that the 1.4 is the hardware designation, not the cable designation. High Speed is the only thing you need to concern yourself with.

I also bought the Atlantic speaker stands (4) and they've been very steady, even on a carpeted floor. I did place a small plastic container (kinda like a tupperware dish) underneath the sub to elevate it a bit off of the carpeted floor (about 2 or 3 inches) and that has worked very well. Originally I had the front R/L sitting to either side of the tv, which is on a media console, but the distance between them wasn't far enough so I bought the two extra stands. You want your front R/L to be at least 6' - 10' apart with the C channel directly in the middle. There was a noticeable difference in the audio quality, at least to me, in separating them by about 1.5' further apart on each side from where they originally were. We have the same speakers (I'm upgrading my fronts to probably MLT-2s later on this year) so I can send you my settings as far as x-overs go as a starter if you want. Because the speakers have small drivers, there really isn't much you can do but I can show you how to get as much as you possibly can out of them, and why.

Use this link to determine your speaker wire: http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm


I agree about Monster. And so do a lot of other people.

Yea, I'd take any info that would be supportive. I already looked through the online manuals to kind of get the "ins and outs" of the receiver, but setting it up with some in the ballpark figures is always welcome.
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post #8 of 33 Old 02-03-2013, 10:49 AM
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Yea, I'd take any info that would be supportive. I already looked through the online manuals to kind of get the "ins and outs" of the receiver, but setting it up with some in the ballpark figures is always welcome.

When you get your system setup and working, PM me and I'll show you how I have mine setup and why.
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post #9 of 33 Old 02-09-2013, 10:53 PM - Thread Starter
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I've got everything fairly hooked up and working. Sounds pretty good, but needs some tweaking and the sub needs moved. About my only complaint so far is the sub has to be powered off separately, but being an active sub, I can handle that(not sure if the rest of the family can).

My biggest question is mostly set up and trying to consolidate the use of the sound as it's been kind of a PITA.

There are 4 HDMI inputs on the receiver and 1 HDMI output. As of right now, I have it as:

Receiver HDMI 1 input: hooked in blu-ray player
Receiver HDMI 2 input: hooked in TWC digital cable box
Receiver HDMI out: hooked to Vizio TV with ARC

This is fine and all, but does make it a pain having to change the volume on the Yamaha remote, then the channels on the Time Warner remote, and then turning the TV on and and off with the vizio remote. Is there any way to consolidate that?

The other problem with that set up is if I get on the Vizio TV apps like Youtube, there is no audio. I was under the impression that the HDMI ARC would allow it to play from the TV, but would that be because the TV is hooked in to the receiver's HDMI output?

What ways can I make this work more intelligently or would I just have to run an optical cable to bypass all the HDMI mess? This kind of makes the idea of a "HDMI pass through" receiver rather self defeating doesn't it or would I have to add another HDMI output cable from the TV(on say HDMI2 port on TV) and run it into the HDMI input on the receiver?
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post #10 of 33 Old 02-10-2013, 04:48 AM
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Subs generally turn off on their own after a period of inactivity. Yours doesn't do that?

Make sure you are using HDMI ports that support ARC. There's usually just one on a TV. You also need to enable HDMI-CEC on the TV and the AVR for ARC to work. CEC will have some sort of name such as Bravia Link, which is what Sony calls it. An optical cable from the TV to the receiver may be simpler than fooling with ARC. But, you can't do a second HDMI connection as you describe. TVs do not have HDMI outputs, just inputs.

I suggest getting a Harmony remote. You can do whatever you want on your system with a single press of a button. All the device remotes can go in a drawer. Harmonys are very family friendly.
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post #11 of 33 Old 02-10-2013, 09:23 AM
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+1 on the Harmony remote. But you better hurry because they are in the process of being sold.
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post #12 of 33 Old 02-10-2013, 09:50 AM
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Hopefully, the new owner will continue to support and develop the product. Logitech didn't create Harmony. Logitech bought Harmony and added it to the product line.
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post #13 of 33 Old 02-10-2013, 10:12 AM
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^^^^^ yeah I know. And I certainly hope you're correct about the new owner continuing with support, updates, and newer devices that aren't like the Harmony Touch.
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post #14 of 33 Old 02-11-2013, 08:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Alright, I went through the settings and the ARC was off on the receiver under the HDMI control settings, so the Time Warner cable box remote and the TV remote can control the volume. At first, I was a little alarmed because every time I changed the volume the TV picture would cut out for 3-4 seconds then come back on, but some how or another it has fixed itself from that gremlin and that doesn't appear to be an an issue any more as of now.

The YPAO mic works pretty good, but I still have customize everything for the goofy layout of the room and goofy seating positions. Sub placement is pretty difficult as there isn't an open facing wall to bounce the sound off of, but I can mess with that once he purchases his TV stand and then I'll know what I have to work with. Now, I just have to mess with all the DRC, crossover, etc settings, and see what I come up with. Out of all the personalized settings, what do you guys usually leave yours in? I see the "Movie" button gives you options such as Sci-Fi, Adventure, Sports, etc....which I presume is decoded in 5.1 of some sort. The most audible set up for some of the content is just 5 channel stereo, which I believe is just 2 channel stereo through all 5 speakers, but I can tweak that with the speaker settings. I'm more confused by the Dolby Pro Logic II and Neo 6 settings? Are these what are ideal for blu-rays in 5.1 or what is the difference between them exactly? I'm a bit befuddled with their differences, but so far, Neo 6 Cinema, seems to be solid with Blu-ray content.

All in all though, it seems to be going fine. Up and running fine, just need to get controls consolidated, and manage the speaker settings.
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post #15 of 33 Old 02-11-2013, 09:00 AM
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I do not recommend using any of those DSPs such as SciFi, unless you like the way they sound. They use delays and echoes to simulate room conditions and speaker layouts.

5 channel stereo works as you suspect, feeding the stereo signal to all speakers. You end up with dialog that should phantom image to the center coming out of the surrounds. Not my cup of tea.

PLII and Neo:6 do an excellent job producing 5.1 from stereo sources. They do nothing when the source is already 5.1.
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post #16 of 33 Old 02-11-2013, 09:18 AM
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Personally, I don't like to use any of the artificial enhancements like Movie mode or what ever. I just like clean, unaltered audio. But, it's a preferential thing so there's no right or wrong. Same with my blu-ray player. No artificial video or audio enhancements. Whatever the source is encoded in, is what I listen to. I've never used Dolby Pro Logic II or Neo 6 settings so someone else will have to speak to that.

I have my speakers set at 8 ohms which lowers the volume a bit but allows the speakers to handle the dynamic range better because not so much energy is being used to push the lower frequencies. Speakers are set to Small so as to enable the high pass filters to go to the speakers and the low pass filters to the sub (LFE channel). The sub is set to x-over at 120Hz because one, I don't know the true dynamic range of the speakers (measured frequency is dependent on how it was measured and that information is rarely given in the specs) and two, I don't know where the low pass filter kicks in so 120Hz is probably a good setting to capture the low frequencies so there won't be any frequency "gaps", which also gives the speakers a better dynamic range because they aren't "struggling" to produce the frequencies at the lower end of their stated range. The sub basically takes some of the workload off of the speakers by using a higher x-over. There's no real advantage to adjusting the GEQ because the improvement would be negligible given the equipment. Audio controls (treble/bass) can be adjusted to taste (within reason) without appreciably affecting the dynamic range.I also set a limit on the maximum allowable volume that the receiver can output to “protect” the speakers from damage and/or distortion. Usually about 10-15 dB less than it’s maximum setting. Of course with higher quality speakers the settings will change, especially the x-over, but for the small driver speakers that come with most HTiBs, I think the settings above give you about the best response you're going to get. However, it's ultimately up to what you hear and enjoy.

I don't use ARC or HDMI-CEC, too many issues. I just use a Harmony remote.
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post #17 of 33 Old 02-11-2013, 07:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Yea, I have the crossover set at 110Hz right now. Receiver is at 8 ohms which seems enough to me as if I crank it up to max volume on 8 ohms it gets distorted as is, so I don't see much need to take it to 6 ohms. Not to mention, I had the sub set at 50% volume and had the volume at "0.0dB" while watching Inception today and it was more than enough loud right there. The parents will never watch a movie that loud even though I liked it. I broke one of my mother's vases when it vibrated off the fireplace mantel during the last snow scene explosions. biggrin.gif I thought about setting the max volume, but it kind of depends on the source and sometimes I can see where my brother might have it set to max on quiet mp3 or radio station....I'd never get it that high on any blu-ray movie though. I did the YPAO setup, but adjusted it some as I sit in a spot different from where I calibrated it, so it brought up the right rear speaker too much for my liking, so I manually turned it down in the setup...not YPAO's fault...just a flawed room layout.

Otto, are you just watching your content in "Straight" then? Is that just basic unfiltered 5.1 when it's available?

I am still having some issues with adjusting the volume. I managed to get the TV and digital cable remote to turn the receiver volume up and down via the TV, but it still intermittently just blacks out the picture and it takes 3-4 seconds for it to restore itself, which is annoying, so not sure what the deal is there.

Also, when I turn on the TV, the system will turn on, but for some reason, it goes to "Audio 2", instead of "HDMI 2", which is what the digital cable box is connected to and nets a picture, but no audio forcing me to manually change it to the "HDMI 2" setting. Nothing is even connected to "Audio 2", so I'm a bit confused there. I'll just play with it a bit and see if I can get those gremlins worked out.
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post #18 of 33 Old 02-11-2013, 09:19 PM
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Yes. I just use Straight for all of my audio. No processing at all. Setting the max volume is more of a fail-safe than anything else because there is no way you can blow your speakers or damage your system if the volume accidentally hits max.

I would suggest getting something like a Harmony remote. That way you can program it to do what ever you want. For example, if you want to watch tv (cable), you just press Watch TV. The tv and receiver turns on, both go to the correct inputs, and you're good to go. You can use the Harmony to change volume, channels, etc. The same holds true for other devices like blu-ray players, etc.
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post #19 of 33 Old 02-14-2013, 08:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Alright, I think I have it simplified enough for them. I ran the cable box to the TV and then kept the HDMI out on the receiver in the TV so it still does the Audio Return. I had the Blu-ray player hooked up to the HDMI port on the TV, but the lip synch on the crappy Vizio TV was too bad, so I routed it into the receiver instead utilizing the HDMI out back to the TV...much better. Now everything turns on and off at once, although it takes a while for it to do(20 seconds or so), and there is no longer any cutout in standard definition channels when you change the volume. The down side is I can't detect signals with cable with this type of setup that I am running now, but oh well.

I tried to run "Straight" today while watching The Dark Knight Rises, but for some reason it was only playing in 2 channel audio and I couldn't get it to play in 5 channel which was bizarre, but I'll play with it more. Seems to have corrected most everything with it now though, so all is well...just have to find a better spot with sub placement and should be good to go.
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post #20 of 33 Old 02-14-2013, 08:45 PM
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ARC seems to have a lot of issues if you don't get it setup correctly. I don't use ARC so my experience in that area is very limited. Basically ARC is good for cable management (you don't need an optical cable) but is limited to 5.1 (no lossless audio).

I would suggest connecting the cable box to the tv directly using the Cable/OTA input (or whatever the tv has). Scan for cable stations using the built-in ATSC tuner. Connect an optical cable from the output of the tv to the optical input of the receiver. You may have to make some changes in the tv. Turn the tv speakers off and select the correct input on the receiver. This way, tv programming is routed thru the tv and any audio (5.1 if programmed) will be played thru the HTiB.

The blu-ray player should be connected to the receiver via HDMI (High Speed HDMI cables) and then connected to the tv via HDMI out on the receiver and HDMI in on the tv. Again, you'll have to select the correct inputs on the tv but all of that can be automated using a Harmony remote. This way, DVD/BD movies audio is played thru the HTiB and only the video is passed to the tv. Again, keeping the tv speakers off.

Use Certified High Speed HDMI cables and not the overpriced "M" brand. Monoprice, MediaBridge, Blue Jeans, all make good cables. Vizio tv huh? Sorry about that.
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post #21 of 33 Old 02-14-2013, 10:04 PM - Thread Starter
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ARC seems to have a lot of issues if you don't get it setup correctly. I don't use ARC so my experience in that area is very limited. Basically ARC is good for cable management (you don't need an optical cable) but is limited to 5.1 (no lossless audio).

I would suggest connecting the cable box to the tv directly using the Cable/OTA input (or whatever the tv has). Scan for cable stations using the built-in ATSC tuner. Connect an optical cable from the output of the tv to the optical input of the receiver. You may have to make some changes in the tv. Turn the tv speakers off and select the correct input on the receiver. This way, tv programming is routed thru the tv and any audio (5.1 if programmed) will be played thru the HTiB.

The blu-ray player should be connected to the receiver via HDMI (High Speed HDMI cables) and then connected to the tv via HDMI out on the receiver and HDMI in on the tv. Again, you'll have to select the correct inputs on the tv but all of that can be automated using a Harmony remote. This way, DVD/BD movies audio is played thru the HTiB and only the video is passed to the tv. Again, keeping the tv speakers off.

Use Certified High Speed HDMI cables and not the overpriced "M" brand. Monoprice, MediaBridge, Blue Jeans, all make good cables. Vizio tv huh? Sorry about that.

Yep, that's the setup I essentially have now, although I'm stilling running HDMI, instead of optical. The video goes in from the cable box to the TV via HDMI-4 input into the TV. The HDMI-1(also ARC) on the TV is plugged into the HDMI-Out on the receiver, so I still get audio return from the cable box essentially "passing through" the TV and going to the receiver via ARC, which is nice.

Trust me...I wanted him to pick up one of the ST or GT50 series Panny plasmas, but he's just "that guy" about everything, so there was no talking him into the crapshoot of this 651 series 65" Vizio he has. It has problems galore, but he doesn't notice them, so whatever I guess. rolleyes.gif
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post #22 of 33 Old 02-14-2013, 10:44 PM
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Your setup is a bit confusing. If you're going to connect the cable box to the tv you should be using the cable/ant input of the tv and using the internal ATSC tuner. Most tv's won't pass anything other than stereo using an externally connected HDMI device. ARC only works if you use the ARC-designated HDMI input of the tv and the ARC-designated output of the receiver. Usually only one HDMI input/output is ARC capable. If it were me, I'd just forget ARC, buy an optical cable, and be done with it.
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post #23 of 33 Old 02-14-2013, 11:32 PM
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If i understnd correctly, he has a set top box which does the tuning. This is not a direct cable feed or off air antenna. But, I don't understand why the change from the original plan to hook the cable box to the AVR. Hooking it up to the TV and using ARC to back feed the audio seems needlessly complicated. The only use for ARC (or an optical cable) would be the Smart TV apps.
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post #24 of 33 Old 02-15-2013, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by BIslander View Post

If i understnd correctly, he has a set top box which does the tuning. This is not a direct cable feed or off air antenna. But, I don't understand why the change from the original plan to hook the cable box to the AVR. Hooking it up to the TV and using ARC to back feed the audio seems needlessly complicated. The only use for ARC (or an optical cable) would be the Smart TV apps.

Ahh yes, I see now. Connecting cable to the AVR would be easier and then using ARC or optical as you suggest would be appropriate.
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post #25 of 33 Old 02-15-2013, 10:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIslander View Post

If i understnd correctly, he has a set top box which does the tuning. This is not a direct cable feed or off air antenna. But, I don't understand why the change from the original plan to hook the cable box to the AVR. Hooking it up to the TV and using ARC to back feed the audio seems needlessly complicated. The only use for ARC (or an optical cable) would be the Smart TV apps.

Correct. Part of that is the apps...particularly Youtube.

The problem I had hooking up the cable box to the AVR and then passing it through to the TV via HDMI is the parents didn't like the idea of having to use the Yamaha remote to hit 1 button(HDMI-2) in this case. They instead, wanted it to just all turn on at once...which is does now, but takes a solid 20 seconds or so to do. The other problem is when I watched standard definition channels through that previous setup, every time you wanted to volume up or volume down, the picture would cut out...could never find out a reason why....once could guess the crappy Vizio TV has something to do with it and some type of signal miscommunication.

I agree it is complicated, but it's what they wanted. It does nicely work by starting up with one click of an "on" button now, but it does complicate a few other things in that you have to use the TV remote to change inputs(like Blu-ray), but they are used to doing that, so that's not a big change for them...think iron chastity belt of conservatism. rolleyes.gif

I do have one quarrel that I can't quite figure out and just noticed recently. When I watch Dolby 5.1 content via Blu-ray...AKA Inception, The Avengers, etc. and then set the receiver to "Straight", it doesn't want to play it through all 5 channels. The "Signal info" only says it is 2 channel audio and only plays it as such, even though the Blu-ray is set up and the audio is playing in 5.1. If it's in "Straight", shouldn't it play it in 5.1 and go through all channels? I'm not quite understanding why it's not recognizing the signal.

The BD Player is hooked up the HDMI-1 on the AVR and then the HDMI Out is going directly into the HDMI-1(ARC) on the TV, so I'm a bit...mystified. confused.gif
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post #26 of 33 Old 02-16-2013, 08:03 AM
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A Harmony remote would work better than your current setup and without the delays you describe.

As for not getting 5.1, what player do you have and what are the player's audio output settings? It looks to be sending stereo.
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post #27 of 33 Old 02-16-2013, 08:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIslander View Post

A Harmony remote would work better than your current setup and without the delays you describe.

As for not getting 5.1, what player do you have and what are the player's audio output settings? It looks to be sending stereo.

Oh geez. I believe it's a Vizio blu-ray player(not my choice). VBR135 is the model number on it.

The golf channel only plays 2 channel(probably sourced that way), but CNN plays it 5 channel straight, so I'm just a little curious as to why the Blu-ray player doesn't. I would hope in this day and age, that the BD player he just bought a month ago would process 5.1. confused.gif
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post #28 of 33 Old 02-16-2013, 09:23 AM
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The player certainly does process 5.1, provided it is set up correctly. What are audio settings on the player? The HDMI handshake with the TV might also be to blame.

Most receivers show what audio formats are arriving. That can be helpful in troubleshooting these kinds of issues.
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post #29 of 33 Old 02-16-2013, 07:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIslander View Post

The player certainly does process 5.1, provided it is set up correctly. What are audio settings on the player? The HDMI handshake with the TV might also be to blame.

Most receivers show what audio formats are arriving. That can be helpful in troubleshooting these kinds of issues.

I went back through the blu-ray player and the settings were all reset on it. I set the audio to "reencode" and it processes 5.1 now in "straight". I have to adjust all the other settings on the blu-ray player too as it's set up as conservative as can be out of the box. All seems to be well now though. biggrin.gif
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post #30 of 33 Old 02-16-2013, 09:25 PM
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1Jeffcat,
Don't know if u got the "sub having to be powered off manually" worked out, but a good solution for me was to use a digital power center surge protector that shuts off all outlets when you turn off the primary power source (in my case the AVR). This also shuts down my TV so it is not even on in stand by, totally off. But the power center also has plugs that are not shut down like for my dual sat receiver and network switch which need to stay on all the time.

http://www.amazon.com/MonsterDigital-PowerCenter800G-HPM-MDP-800G/dp/B002RL9XR6/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1360162957&sr=1-2&keywords=Monster+800g

If u go this way AND use a harmony remote, you will have to call Logitech and have then program in a pause after the AVR turns on so that the TV will also come on in the one touch. If u don't, the TV will not have enough time to warm up before the remote tells it to turn on so the remote will not power on the TV. AND this pause CAN'T be user set - yep stupid but true - Logitch must do it for u from their end on your programming account. They do not give u this feature in the set up.
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