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post #61 of 64 Old 01-22-2010, 12:28 PM
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I'll "play", here's a few of mine:
Transformers ROTF blu-ray, took a few picts with my new Canon T1i (I'm still learning it)
Straight from camera, RAW, unprocessed, just cropped in iPhoto before uploading to picasa web hosting.

Projector: Sony VPL-VW60 + Panamorph UH380
CIH Screen Size: 130" diag for 2.37 movies 103" dia for 16:9
Screen Type: DIY curved Wilson Art Designer White Laminate
PS3 Blu-Ray.













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post #62 of 64 Old 01-22-2010, 12:37 PM
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Cars
Projector: Sony VPL-VW60 + Panamorph UH380
CIH Screen Size: 130" diag for 2.35 movies 103" dia for 16:9
Screen Type: DIY curved Wilson Art Designer White Laminate
PS3 Blu-Ray.










This is on of my favorite shots.....



I love the blue color of the Hudson Hornet, classic color!
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post #63 of 64 Old 01-23-2010, 10:06 AM
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Just thought I would post a few shots.

Benq W5000
100" N7 Screen












Whites still look white.


A couple with 2 60w wall lights on. Camera dosn't show it very well, but the room is lit up pretty good.

Jason
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post #64 of 64 Old 01-26-2010, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiddler View Post

That would be greatly appreciated. I'm no photographer so please post your instructions and I will then quote them in the posts near the beginning of the thread.

Thanks for the offer!

Now here is some Screenie takin' help; (...previously offered to another member....)

With any particular Camera, there is a point where resolution and incoming light combine with aperture to create a balance.....or not. We/I use the eye to initially judge the image quality we actually see, and it's the memory of that image that serves as the comparison to go by when viewing the Screen Shot.

The first step is to set up a sturdy spot that is at mid-screen height and centered "lens to Screen". Choose an appropriate distance. With your Screen being a white laminate, that would probably be at about 13'-14'

Set the Camera on AUTO / High ISO. Zoom in until you have the Screen centered in the image but with at least 15% of the image width open around the Screen's perimeter. You need to have a offsetting reference for the camera's metering system to work right, but too much "out of the image" content will skew the balance to favor the "Black' and wash out the image.Set the timer and take a shot. Compare the LCD preview. Adjust the light output of the LCD window until you match the image with what you see ahead. That's not really accurate...but it's better than being far off.

OK...now what your trying to do is to take shots at a relative high ISO (500-800) but compensate for the brightness increase by using the Zoom to attenuate incoming light just enough to allow for detail and color to not be washed out because the Camera is seeing the light coming from the Screen as being so very bright.

If you get the light balance down, the colors produced by the PJ and as presented via the Camera's sensors will be as accurate as both can produce.

It's all about balance, and using your eye/memory to make the subtle adjustments to equalize what you capture with what you see.

When you get back to your PJ and download, then you can see how much of any "luminance loss" you experience during the File transfer. If you have a balance going for you, that will always be nominal, if indeed it's not actually minimal.

Some degree of Trial and Error and Adjustment is involved. and certain Movies ranging from darkies like Underworld to brilliant Pixar animations will call for re-adjustments at time.

But all those really center around Distance/Zoom/ISO so you don't have a lot of head scratchin' to do.

One last thing. Pixel resolution on most all new 1080p PJs is incredibly smooth. Because of that, the camera cannot use it's pixel interpolation (PI) feature very well, resulting in a flatter, less contrasty image (...mostly lacking depth of field...) This results in a image that is /can be slightly fuzzier looking than what you know it looked like when you watched it. But when it can, image sharpness seen in a Photo appears to go off the scale.
(CRTs have none of those issues..."Smooth Screen" PJs have the most.)

The "PI" feature on most Digi-Cameras is just one of a few aspects that makes some decry the validity of Screen shots. But actually it's a playing field leveler that makes a photographed image look more like the real life image, not "better than". This aspect usually manifests itself in Close ups. If you can't avail yourself of PI, then it is best to not zoom in too close, but rather re-size downward and crop to enlarge the remaining content. Zoom in too close and all that detail actually becomes blurry, and colors shift and actually merge because of the seemingly indistinct transition points between fields of different content.

Happy shootin'

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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