New DIY screen build: 150" BOC w/Steel Stud Frame - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 94 Old 09-02-2008, 09:50 PM - Thread Starter
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EDIT: Added current photo to this post.

So after spending too much time on AVS and too much time on planning my screen I've finally made a decision: I'm cheap. Well, at least that would seem to be the consensus amongst others in these parts - more on that later. But I plan to give a little back by documenting my screen build.

In an effort to maximize my studio budget (a topic for another forum), I've chosen to embark on a cheap but effective screen build for my ceiling mounted Epson HC720. This is in my living room, so I'm not shooting for perfection.

After considering Laminate (my first choice for ease of cleaning), BOC, Coated Celtic Cloth, Sheerweave, and to round it out an SMX ProLine...I decided on BOC. Laminate didn't come big enough (I contacted the manufacturer for a custom cut - no go), BOC seemed lackluster and required painting, CCC didn't lend itself to focus (according to Ruben but contrary to others), Sheerweave seemed promising, and the SMX ProLine - well, again, I'll have more on that later.

Without authoring a book I'll get straight to it:

-150" 16:9 image: 75% HDTV and 25% movies
-17' primary viewing location (my recliner), 30' at the back of the kitchen
-Light control is horrible during the day, fine at dusk/night
-Ceiling is white (not changing), and walls are taupe (not changing)
-2 1/2" Steel stud structual framing from local drywall supplier
-Large width (110" x 144") BOC material from Carl
-Industrial adhesive Velcro from HD
-Shelf brackets from HD
-Base moulding leftovers for black velvet framing

Originally I had planned to use aluminum for the frame. But I couldn't justify 10 times the cost when compared to steel studs. Again, label me cheap (or frugal and smart depending on your upbringing). We'll see later if I got what I paid for when choosing steel studs.

At this point I have acquired all the materials except the velvet for the frame (MississippiMan - I'm trying to pay attention and plan to find real velvet). However, before I go to the trouble of wrapping velvet around the trim pieces with neat little hospital corners I need to find out if boogers are easily removed from the material.

Ok, ok, ok, here are the pics...

Screenwall - dimensions aren't exact, allowing for the everpresent fudge factor


Current Status: getting ready for Silver Fire Lite screen paint


Before upgraded speakers, curtains, and painting the screenwall


Left of screenwall - in case you care


Steel studs aren't always "straight" - I originally planned to build a standard steel stud structure. However, this "wave" changed my build method.



So I decided to change their orientation instead of building a standard steel stud wall. Note how this profile doesn't succomb to "the wave"


The brackets and screws - I borrowed this idea from my neighbor BlackBanshee. He used these brackets with his aluminum frame build. I first grabbed a square from the tools department in HD and then measured each bracket. More than half in the bin were out of square - buyer beware!


The Velcro - I will cut this 2" wide material in half to double the length. But, there will still be gaps around the perimeter. I do have a plan for this...


I plan to start assembling soon...

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post #2 of 94 Old 09-03-2008, 06:39 AM
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Looks well planned!
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post #3 of 94 Old 09-03-2008, 08:26 AM
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Wow, that's a big screen. Will you be adding masking of some sort for viewing movies in aspect ratios other than 16:9 ?

Good luck on your new home theater, thanks for letting us come along...

John
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post #4 of 94 Old 09-03-2008, 08:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptirmal View Post

Looks well planned!

Thanks - I'm trying to measure more than once!

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post #5 of 94 Old 09-03-2008, 08:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDGTX View Post

Wow, that's a big screen. Will you be adding masking of some sort for viewing movies in aspect ratios other than 16:9 ?

Good luck on your new home theater, thanks for letting us come along...

John

Big - yes. But my seating distance is around 17'-18' which puts me at 1.5x screen width. I would like to go bigger (right now, shooting against the wall I'm at 156") but I can't widen the room very easily. So I will wait until I can start a basement build - hopefully 2009.

Masking - I'm planning on using this approach. I would do FLAPS but don't have the room under the screen due to the center speaker.

I've been shooting against a taupe knock down textured wall for six months now and have loved the picture. I finally got around to starting this build and ordered the BOC last week. When I pinned it up against the wall to compare I was shocked at how horrible my wall is! So, the next day I went and bought all the materials for the frame...and will make sure it is done in time for the first Bronco game.

Question: Which side of the baseboard moulding (after wrapped in velvet) should be closest to the screen? The thinnest part of the profile, or the thickest?

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post #6 of 94 Old 09-03-2008, 09:01 AM
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The only "Steel Studs' are those used in framing Structural Support areas. What you have are the Galvinized Aluminum studs used to frame up the areas between the "Steel" corners. They do come in different gauges though.

I've constructed up to 16' x 9' screen assemblies using those Critters, with the perimeter AND a center "Spine" being of the thicker Gauge and the 'fill in" studs being the thinner variety. (...you can also place 2 "thin" ones together, one inside the other to create a stronger "Box" assembly. The Thicker Perimeter pieces serve to correct any slight twisting the thin "Aluminum" members have. On a Screen project this size, you kinda jus' gotta use 'em, or else do the "Box Thing" to accomplish the same purpose.

The soft Aluminum "boogers" will grind off easily using a hand Drill with a small Grinding wheel.

I'm most concerned with what you gonna do about the BOC's under 1.0 gain (0.8) situation. If your placing the PJ at 19 feet (...behind your Chair...highly advisable) at very most, you'll only have 7 fl of brightness 'on screen'.

That's awful....ya ain't gonna like that! So that paintin' your contemplatin'.....what's it gonna be? Whatever it is, you should STRONGLY consider spraying it on AFTER you get the BOC stretched out across your Framework. ( I now see from your 2nd post you think the BOC is quite the improvement? Well, it didn't have much competition.(Taupe Wall) but as long as your happy....

Velvet? Just go onto Sy's Fabrics and order up the Triple Black Velvet. It comes in at the best price you'll find anywhere, even with freight.
http://www.syfabrics.com/View.aspx/P...Velvet/681/264

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #7 of 94 Old 09-03-2008, 09:19 AM - Thread Starter
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MM - thanks for chiming in!

I mounted my Epson HC720 in February at about 16' from the screen (literally directly overhead the prime seating position). The marketing folks say it has 1600 lumens, but Art at Projector Central(?) said it probably runs more around 1000 in Living Room mode. However, I always leave it in Dynamic Mode - which is the "colors all out of whack mode" and brighter than Living Room mode, or in other words I Torch It!

The boogers I referred to were not the burrs - but rather the ones belonging to my kids (the link on the words boogers was to assist with that idea).

I'm not sure about painting yet. I'm taking the wait and see approach. I will mount the velvet wrapped frame so I can easily remove it. That way I could spray it while on the wall as well as pull off the BOC and replace it with something else (assuming the frame works out).

So for daytime ambient light, which mix would you recommend?

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post #8 of 94 Old 09-03-2008, 10:38 AM
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Silver Fire Lite, because it will spray easily and at a very affordable price with the Wagner, and cover the BOC in a minimum of coats. Also, in this case, be certain to use the smooth side of the BOC if your even ever to consider spraying.

Beyond that, there's Black Widow...if you can become a Beta Tester for their lightest shade. Besides those two, everything else is a also ran at the screen size your considering.

IMO

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post #9 of 94 Old 09-04-2008, 05:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok - so much for these studs. I cut them with the snips, screwed them together just like when building a wall and then installed the corner brackets. This thing is so flimsy it is a joke! No amount of braces and brackets will stabilize it across the screen plane for use with fabric.

Now I need to find a local supplier for 2" square tube aluminum...luckily, my little experiment only cost about $20 of materials (the studs).

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post #10 of 94 Old 09-04-2008, 06:24 AM
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You should try stretching the fabric across that frame first. You have a exoskeleton but not veneer.

Equal and correct pulling from corner to corner and then side to side will stiffen that assembly considerably. It won't ever be a "wall", and it will tend to flex when handled, but it will be far stiffer than what your now experiencing.

To quote a wise Tree; "Don't be hasty." Throwing one's hands up too early is not a good way to maintain the spirit and confidence that DIY'ers need.

If it's just too crazy flexible, perhaps you did not use the thicker gauge aluminum around the Edges....or double up wherever possible?

Look at the image below. 16' x 9' and being picked up at the center by one person. Yes, it flexes a bit, but not to the point of despair.

Let us review the structure. Take an image and post it. With a little "proper bracing" at strategic locations, it's stiffness can be enhanced considerably. No matter what you have to do to correct the current dilemma, it won't be as expensive as scrapping your current investment and starting again with a more expensive solution. Besides, that sets a bad precedent, one I personally have seen develop in a few on this forum, and usually it degenerates into the Dreaded...."I should have just bought a mfg screen".


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post #11 of 94 Old 09-04-2008, 09:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

and usually it degenerates into the Dreaded...."I should have just bought a mfg screen".


Funny you posted that image - it was the one that made me decide to try this route.

I did think about just calling Ruben and ordering a ProLine. But, since I haven't heard back from him in over a week in reply to my quote request I can easily see his perception of my worth as a customer. That's all the dirty laundry.

About bracing - well yes I didn't do ANY. I just screwed the corners on one side and put the brackets in corners. I know it will flex a little like your pic. But I'm talking about the entire frame twisting on the order of 5 feet - breaking the screen plane into some vortex looking thing from MC Escher.

When I get back to the house I'll post some pics.

For now I'll be a good solider and march on - adding bracing members and shoring up the corners more.

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post #12 of 94 Old 09-04-2008, 09:58 AM
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Study the image.

Note how at each end there appears to be Wood bracing. Well there is. The Aluminum Studs have 2x4s ripped to fit inside them, and at the corners where they tie together. They are secured into the Aluminum channels with 1" Truss Head screws shot into them along the outside edges, then another 2 short wood pieces are overlaid and butted together at the corners, and screwed together with 2 - 1/2" coarse threaded screws. No "Twist & Shout" happening there, even with a 9' vertical stretch at each end.

At intervals, I also bridged the gap between vertical pieces with cut pieces of wood inserted inside the frame channels (...and screwed in of course...) to stiffen the top and bottom rails, and then, since that big honker was getting a 1/4" Drywall veneer, and had to be hung in place, I added additional blocks at the top.

Lastly, note how there appears to be thicker Aluminum uprights every 4th one? That's because I took two pieces and screwed them "back to back" to form a sort of "I" Beam. Stiffened the 'ell out of it right where such was most needed, but without the extra weight of additional Wood.

A little wood goes a long way, as does doubling up on the verticals.

You can and WILL accomplish your goal. And in doing so, learn enough to speak(write) with authority when helping others. My previous post was in earnest. It does no good for DIY in general for People with high hopes and expectations to be let down due to natural mistakes or exclusions that might easily be avoided. If they don't ask...and fail....but are willing to bear up under the weight of their own miscues and go beyond them, and wind up learning how to do something right...even the 2nd or 3rd time around, such an effort accomplishes more in the long run than a single failure and dismissal ever can.

Less beeetchin' to bear on here as well.

Over the years there has been plenty... And much of it because some always decide to vary from known methods, or attempt to figure out new ones without the experience needed to assure success. All that is really just OK, until they blame everything else but themselves for their troubles.

A honest effort after coming back for a recoup and readjustment seldom goes awry.

BTW, most of this lesson is not a dig toward you, just an opportunity to point out the old saying; "Ask first...and ye shall receive the blessing of knowledge. Don't ask, and you might be SOL and up a creek."

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #13 of 94 Old 09-04-2008, 11:51 AM - Thread Starter
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No offense taken - rather appreciate the help! My "giving up" post was mostly displaying my frustration.

Note that I had planned to add two vertical "supports" in the middle - just hadn't gotten to that when the twisting torqued me off. One of my goals was to keep this as light as possible given its size. I'm cool with adding wood - but not too much. Once this is mounted on a wall I could care less about the torsion. I'm assuming it will be rather flat. However, moving it - especially after painting - is where I'm most concerned. It seems like it will stretch the fabric substrate, requiring another round of wrestling with the velcro...

So, ask and ye shall receive you say...

"Torsion"


Full view


Corners




My idea to even out the "screen plane" due to studs snapping into tracks...or I guess I could attach "straight" pieces of wood to make sure the fabric pulls evenly.


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post #14 of 94 Old 09-07-2008, 05:47 AM - Thread Starter
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I spent some time on this yesterday. The frame is certainly more rigid but still suffers from some torsion. But I'm just going to baby it when moved so as not to stretch the fabric.

Frame update

Added corner blocking



Added vertical webbing w/blocking





A little flat black Rustoleum spray paint, staying away from where I plan to put the velcro.



Velcro cutting

I made a little makeshift roll holder with left over 2x6 corners and a file. Worked great.



I learned to hold the velcro like this while cutting in order to keep the top and bottom pieces from moving away from the middle line cut.



My scissors kept clogging up from the glue - frequent cleaning was required.



After everything was cut I had four 15' strips so I improvised to roll them back up.




Today I plan to snap track over the top and bottom studs so the surface that the velcro attaches to is on an even plane with the side track. Then I'll do one last coat of flat black spray paint, place the velcro, and hopefully stretch the BOC over the frame...

QUESTION about Velvet
I was in Joanne's yesterday and found two different velvets. One was in the "designer" home fabric section and the other was in the clothing section. Which one is an option if I can't wait for shipping from the Sys link that MM posted?

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post #15 of 94 Old 09-07-2008, 06:30 AM
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That's not very much to go on.

100% Cotton Velvet is the most expensive. Rayon/Cotton Blends less so.

Velvet found in the "Clothing Section" has more stretch, and less Nap. Obviously, it's meant to wear.
Designer Fabric is denoted for it's use for Drapes and such. No stretch....usually a thicker Nap.

You want "No Stretch...High Nap" (Plush....should noticeably crush down under pressure between your finger).

You have a big screen, and you'll have to by a length that is at least 8" longer than the Screen's "side to side" width. You'll have to round that measurement off to the next highest "yard".

Honestly, you'll be taking a more expensive chance than necessary should you decide to rush and get something local priced at $9.00+ per yard on sale, perhaps 2x that if not on sale. Also, you don't want nor need any Velvet that is backed with too thick a weave. Ripping off the required width strips is the correct way to dole out the stuff off the length you get.

If you can, get the exact name/Mfg of those Velvets and post it. In the least, do a "pinch & Tug" test yourself. It's gotta be plush. Too thin and it will have sheen. Pulled too tight around a sharp corner and a thin velvet will "Part" like hair and show a bare line at that edge, so you want it not to be stretchy to a fault so as to tug it tight and not wind up with any lumps or ripples along the edge.

All this means you want the right stuff, at the right price, IMO. I've bought several types at several stores, and a few times when I felt rushed and made 'spur" decisions, I regretted it. A $30 t0 $40 dollar Boo Boo can take some fun out of it all.

And really stick in your throat if you were told to do otherwise, I might add.

Do those tests, and ask the "Lady" her opinion. (If she's under 30, ask someone else... )Tell her your "Upholstering" it must not be stretchy, must be Black & Plush. Must be "Rip-able"

Good luck.

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wow, this thing is a beast! I applaud your "think big" approach. Oh and good idea painting the cross beams
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post #17 of 94 Old 09-08-2008, 11:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

That's not very much to go on.

100% Cotton Velvet is the most expensive. Rayon/Cotton Blends less so.

Velvet found in the "Clothing Section" has more stretch, and less Nap. Obviously, it's meant to wear.
Designer Fabric is denoted for it's use for Drapes and such. No stretch....usually a thicker Nap.

You want "No Stretch...High Nap" (Plush....should noticeably crush down under pressure between your finger).

You have a big screen, and you'll have to by a length that is at least 8" longer than the Screen's "side to side" width. You'll have to round that measurement off to the next highest "yard".

Honestly, you'll be taking a more expensive chance than necessary should you decide to rush and get something local priced at $9.00+ per yard on sale, perhaps 2x that if not on sale. Also, you don't want nor need any Velvet that is backed with too thick a weave. Ripping off the required width strips is the correct way to dole out the stuff off the length you get.

If you can, get the exact name/Mfg of those Velvets and post it. In the least, do a "pinch & Tug" test yourself. It's gotta be plush. Too thin and it will have sheen. Pulled too tight around a sharp corner and a thin velvet will "Part" like hair and show a bare line at that edge, so you want it not to be stretchy to a fault so as to tug it tight and not wind up with any lumps or ripples along the edge.

All this means you want the right stuff, at the right price, IMO. I've bought several types at several stores, and a few times when I felt rushed and made 'spur" decisions, I regretted it. A $30 t0 $40 dollar Boo Boo can take some fun out of it all.

And really stick in your throat if you were told to do otherwise, I might add.

Do those tests, and ask the "Lady" her opinion. (If she's under 30, ask someone else... )Tell her your "Upholstering" it must not be stretchy, must be Black & Plush. Must be "Rip-able"

Good luck.

Thanks for all the info - duly noted.

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post #18 of 94 Old 09-08-2008, 11:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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wow, this thing is a beast! I applaud your "think big" approach. Oh and good idea painting the cross beams

Beast is how she described it as it swung through the door tonight...

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post #19 of 94 Old 09-08-2008, 11:59 PM - Thread Starter
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These pics almost bring us up to date. Even though there aren't any shots of it, I did watch the second half of the game - GO BRONCOS!!! Official Raider Hater in the house!

Snapped the extra track over the horizontal members to even out the screen plane with the vertical members. I screwed the little ones into place.



Adding the wall mount (aluminum french cleat)

I first made the metal stud bracket.



Cut a 1x2 to length (x 2); inserted one inside the stud for rigidity.



Attached the other 1x2 - sandwiching the metal stud in between.


Attached cleat to 1x3


This stage finished...


I added 7" velcro strips all around the frame, leaving about 1" spaces in between.

Fabric stretching
So I then started stretching the BOC across the frame, following the "standard" method.


I somehow lost the pics of the next phase - sorry. As a result of the fabric stretching, the outside vertical metal track members twisted towards the center of the screen. It was bowing as well. So I inserted wood members in those C channels, and added bracing across the vertical supports. This is a mock up (without the fabric).


As a result of the "truing" of the outside vertical studs, the velcro pulled away from the staples - about 1 1/2" inside the inner part of the frame.

So, I had to re-stretch that side. I removed all the velcro from the fabric (staples too) and the started again. This time, I employed my DIY canvas stretcher. Thanks goes out to someone around here who posted that they would not have been able to stretch their fabric without commercial canvas pliers - my cheapo route is based on the photo. And to echo - I could not have saved my build without this method.


I also installed gate handles to the sides which my buddy appreciated while he helped move this into the living room from the garage. The width of my beast is 76" and the length is 135". Jaws were dropping as I shoved it through the front door opening of 79" tall - if only we had pics...

I mounted the wall part of the cleats using the plastic molly bolt things that came with them. It just so happens that even though I eyeballed the horizontal placement of each cleat on the frame, they are exactly 6 feet apart at the edges. I'm amazed that I'm still only 1/8" off square over 153". I'm not a pro...and therefore I didn't install it level on the wall (I know the cleats come with built in leveling bubbles...I was "celebrating" the crushing of the Raiders).

I'll snap pics of it mounted soon.

I plan to install the border while it is hanging on the wall.

Painting question

Silver Fire Lite is the current leader. Any one care to vote for BW? If I choose not to spray (why would I in a furnished room?), any deviations from tiddler's rolling instructions?

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post #20 of 94 Old 09-09-2008, 07:12 AM
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this is amazing, I feel like Ando reading the scripts from Hiro's sword

go Broncos! Cutler looked amazing
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post #21 of 94 Old 09-09-2008, 08:51 AM - Thread Starter
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this is amazing, I feel like Ando reading the scripts from Hiro's sword

go Broncos! Cutler looked amazing

Thanks! Maybe I'll pick that series back up from Netflix (I dropped off after the first season).

Yes - Jay is starting to show how great he will become (or already is?). I can't wait for BMarsh to join the pounding of the Chargers at home next week!

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post #22 of 94 Old 09-09-2008, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audixium View Post

T
[b]Painting question

Silver Fire Lite is the current leader. Any one care to vote for BW? If I choose not to spray (why would I in a furnished room?), any deviations from tiddler's rolling instructions?

Awwww......spray away. It's no big deal. Some cheap, thin Plastic Drop Cloth, a little tape, some time spent masking the surrounding area....all to obtain a perfect finish on a flexible material that already has shown a tendency to breal loose from your Frame when messed with.

Here is a Room in a 14 Mil dollar Home in San Diego, where a 135" DaLite Electrol Matte Gray was painted with SF-Lite while just hanging across a large arched case opening. Note the "Pre-Taped Plastic masking.

First I taped up the Opening.



Then I lowered down the Screen, taped/masked the edges and continued masking the sides out to the corners (...this was a room with Blazing White Walls and I was using a mid-hued Gray paint. Those two don't match up well as far as over spray goes, but really, all it takes is a little extra care about "paint Dust' because in reality, there is NO "WET Paint Mist" beyond the area surrounding the Gun and the surface directly ahead of it.



I used the thinnest and cheapest Plastic I could find....10' x 20' sheets @ 2 mil thickness. It doesn't take many to cover an entire room if your a little "Noided" about death and dismemberment via the Wife-Monster, and for $10/12.00, it's a awfully good way to be able to forge ahead with abandon.

Here's what the "back of the Room looked like after masking the $7k Couch and putting the same plastic down on the Light Cream colored Cotton Berber carpet ($80.00 yrd!) What? Me worry?





And BTW...and very important in your case, Audixium, spraying it in place eliminates the concern about moving it afterwards. lastly, with spraying you'll not have to worry much if at all that the much smaller amount of paint applied, once it drys and cures, will work to deform your screen's outlines through shrinkage.

All in all, and especially with a fabric Screen, nothing is easier or comes with more assurance of excellent results than spraying. I'll venture this....if you decide to Roll, then use that nasty 'ol Spider concoction. It's still very good, and will roll out easier. But watch out for roller marks. They are terribly easy to get on a flexible fabric, and impossible to sand out once they are there.

Spray, and you get a piece of this action.



..........the Screen that is.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #23 of 94 Old 09-09-2008, 10:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks MM...

I'm leaning towards spraying now based on those pics. Even though I've done a fair amount of rolling walls in my time, I'm definitely concerned about the rolling problems, as well as the wife monster!

So, for my size you still recommend Silver Fire Lite mix?
What about volume? Will I have enough?
I'll go back through the thread, but are the ingredients normally available locally?
Do I need to prime the BOC?

I have two blemishes on the BOC - about 3/4 the diameter of a pencil eraser head. One bump is about 1/16" above the surface and looks as if it is the material from behind. The other is much less pronounced. I didn't notice them during the game last night. Can/should I sand these down? What if I sand and it creates a small puncture in the surface? Will the paint "fill in" pin holes?

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post #24 of 94 Old 09-09-2008, 12:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is the beast on the wall - crooked due to my celebrating.



Since my buddy was coming over for the game I literally cut corners and here is the evidence. No biggie because it is coming off the wall anyway (so I can mount it level). I'll staple and stretch all corners before putting it back up.



Here is a shot of the side that pulled away. See all those dirty finger prints? This was due to my bonehead move of attaching the fabric in the garage. The plastic I used while painting was under the frame, and the BOC over the top. I am VERY lucky I didn't get the surface dirty except in these areas that will be covered by the trim.

Also, note where the original staples were (blue circle). Would paint fill these? Ok, I know it won't work that way. But I'm trying trying to get that last inch back.



Here is a shot with the blinds open. Down the road the wife will hire an interior designer to make custom drapes with - you guessed it - BOC backing.



I'm wondering about doing something like this with the border...2 1/2" black border and about the same in wood surround. The screen wall will be faux finished like my Visio diagram. Thoughts about this framing idea?


I'm also seriously considering dimmable rope lighting behind the framing. That would be sweet if I could control it from my Harmony - talk about "mood" lighting!

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post #25 of 94 Old 09-09-2008, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audixium View Post

Thanks MM...

I'm leaning towards spraying now based on those pics. Even though I've done a fair amount of rolling walls in my time, I'm definitely concerned about the rolling problems, as well as the wife monster!

So, for my size you still recommend Silver Fire Lite mix?

Yep....or S-I-L-V-E-R

Quote:


What about volume? Will I have enough?

Yes, but if in doubt, double the mixed amounts....or increase the by 1/2 in the least.

Quote:


I'll go back through the thread, but are the ingredients normally available locally?

Yes. At Home Depot and Michael's Arts & Crafts



Quote:


Do I need to prime the BOC?

T'would be best, but don't apply too heavily. What it's real doing is simply brightening up the BOC Substrate

Quote:


I have two blemishes on the BOC - about 3/4 the diameter of a pencil eraser head. One bump is about 1/16" above the surface and looks as if it is the material from behind. The other is much less pronounced. I didn't notice them during the game last night. Can/should I sand these down? What if I sand and it creates a small puncture in the surface? Will the paint "fill in" pin holes?

Don't try to sand the unpainted BOC surface. All you'll do is rough it up and make it look worse.

That Bump? I'd try using a Safety razor blade and slicing off the bump as close as possible. Just lay the edge of the blade flat against the BOC just ahead of the bump, and while holding down one corner of the Blade with a finger, use the other hand to swing the blade around and against the offending Bump.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #26 of 94 Old 09-09-2008, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Audixium View Post

I'm also seriously considering dimmable rope lighting behind the framing. That would be sweet if I could control it from my Harmony - talk about "mood" lighting!

*............. like this?


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post #27 of 94 Old 09-09-2008, 12:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, more like this...

Quote:
Originally Posted by auburnu008 View Post





100" Wilsonart Laminate FG screen.


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post #28 of 94 Old 09-09-2008, 02:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is an example of what I'm thinking about for the border...

I like the ratio of black to wood but would go with a darker stain, and perhaps with a molding profile

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post #29 of 94 Old 09-09-2008, 05:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

You should try stretching the fabric across that frame first. You have a exoskeleton but not veneer.

Equal and correct pulling from corner to corner and then side to side will stiffen that assembly considerably. It won't ever be a "wall", and it will tend to flex when handled, but it will be far stiffer than what your now experiencing.

I just wanted to follow up on MM's encouragement. Even after adding all the additional bracing there was a fair amount of torsion left. But, after stretching the fabric AND inserting wood blocking in the vertical members there is relatively little torsion. Plus, the BOC is literally tight as a drum. Thanks MM!

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post #30 of 94 Old 09-12-2008, 06:30 AM - Thread Starter
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So when I came home the other night one of the corners had pulled away from the frame. Actually, the BOC pulled away from the velcro. So we took the frame off the wall (we = me and my 11 year old). I reapplied the velcro, stapled obsessively, and restretched each of the corners.

I also took the opportunity to take another shot at leveling the cleats on the wall. I only modified the left side and it is much improved. However, the right side is 1/4" lower than the left as measured from the ceiling - and the entire structure is out of level. I'm going to take one last shot at getting it level. Plus that will give me an opportunity with it off the wall to reinforce velcro with more staples.

I found out this week that my buddy bought the touted Wagner months ago and hasn't gotten around to using it yet. So when I get around to painting I'm going to use his sprayer.

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