The Absolutely Official Wagner Control Spray Thread - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 44 Old 08-12-2009, 01:23 PM
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Here's a link to the recall:

WAGNER CONTROL SPRAY PLUS RECALL

I don't think it affects all models, but check to be sure what you're getting before buying one!




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post #32 of 44 Old 08-12-2009, 02:44 PM - Thread Starter
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According the Notice, it applies to units sold through January 2009. That expired almost 8 full months ago. It is possible that a Resellers like Gleems might have purchased a "Seconds" stock and that explains the lower price....but it will only take a moment's comparison of the model # to ascertain that.

I'm not sure that you could check the Products pertinent info before receiving it...but I'm calling Gleempaint myself to follow up because if it's going to be recommended/suggested to a widely diverse group like DIY'ers, we don't want anybody to get a permanent Permanent

Important Note Below:







Don't drop the Turbine Motor Unit. Apparently it has little "bounce" factor.


Post note; A call to Gleampaint to get conformation that the current inventory was post-mfg'd the date of the recall was unsuccessful as they closed 3 minutes (4pm) before my call. Left a message. Since they are a Mississippi Co. we can expect a prompt reply. Right?

Called Wagner too. Got shuffled to the appropriate Dept. Head. Not available. Left message. Called back to check if someone else could answer a single pointed question. They were closed. (4:30pm)

But I'll get a call from them 1st thing tomorrow? Right?

As for Gleam trying to dump units that are subject to a recall...I seriously doubt it for they are a reputable Supply House, and they would be expected to be aware of a Recall that is over 1 year old. There is a liability issue in that case as well.

Oh my.

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post #33 of 44 Old 08-13-2009, 08:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Previously posted on another thread.

Just got the word from Wagner Central.

Most all the bad inventory has been recalled from Stores and E'tailers, who were offered full credit for stock, and compensated fully for Freight to and from Wagner. So it was / would have been pretty dumb to incur liability for selling a product that had a "months old" known Recall hanging over it.

Of course some degree "dumbness" hasn't been absent from such Sellers before, so here's how ya tell fer certain;

All product Mfg after the defective units were sent out have a large GREEN sticker on the Bottom of the Box. If it has a Green sticker on the Box...it's good to go.

If you get a CS+ and there is no Sticker, a quick call to Wagner will get you a UPS Call Tag for PU at your Home, and they will either make the repair/fix or replace the unit out of hand, and ship it back @ N/C

BTW, they said if the Turbine unit has not been dropped and the Switch assembly is intact, there is no real risk...however they still suggest it be returned as soon as possible for the Fix.

As for the one I ordered from GleemPaint...my Wife just this moment brought my new Boxed unit to me...and Lo & Behold....it has a nice, pretty Green Dot right there on the Box.



So GleemPaint is obviously doing everyone right. Look for the "Green Dot" from all other vendors.

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post #34 of 44 Old 09-01-2009, 11:15 AM
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Ok, I just bought a Wagner Control Sprayer.

I have a quart of Kilz primer
I have a quart of Valspar N8.5 gray
I have a quart of Miniwax Polycrylic

So number 1, what mix of the valspar vs miniwax?

This is my 1st time spraying. I know I need to add distilled water. 33% water right or is it different with the Polycrylic / Valspar mix I will be doing?

Also, what setting do I set the gun on?

And I assume I do 40% overlap and a 12" pattern?

BTW, I am painting a Parkland Duro-Therm Lite wall. It is great it has so much more support than the polywall so no backing needed.

Thanks, any other tips would be great.
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post #35 of 44 Old 09-01-2009, 06:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjhooker74 View Post

Ok, I just bought a Wagner Control Sprayer.

I have a quart of Kilz primer
I have a quart of Valspar N8.5 gray
I have a quart of Miniwax Polycrylic

So number 1, what mix of the valspar vs miniwax? 40% / 33%

This is my 1st time spraying. I know I need to add distilled water. 25% water right or is it different with the Polycrylic / Valspar mix I will be doing?

Also, what setting do I set the gun on? Full Volume

And I assume I do 40% overlap and a 12" pattern? 60% overlap. Drop 40% below you last visible row.

BTW, I am painting a Parkland Duro-Therm Lite wall. It is great it has so much more support than the polywall so no backing needed.

Thanks, any other tips would be great.

Practice your technique with the thinned Primer (water 40%/primer 60%) on a spare board or the opposite side of the Parkland. After you have Primed the Parkland you should have technique down pretty well, but ALWAYS do a trial Row on something before you squirt on your Screen surface.

That helps you know how freely the paint is flowing...the size of your pattern, and how fast across the sheet you need to move.

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post #36 of 44 Old 07-22-2011, 07:10 PM - Thread Starter
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This thread has most all the painting instructions regarding the Wagner HVLP units that anyone would need to nail down an excellent finish.

As such, the same directions apply to any of the similar HVLP guns. Exceptions being the more powerful Wagner "Plus" and "Max" models, and the Gleem "No Name" (aka: Graco HV2900)

With those models, only a slight reduction in additional Water added for dilution and a slight increase in speed moving across the surface is all that is required to quantify the existing instructions to govern their specific usage.

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post #37 of 44 Old 07-24-2011, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

This thread has most all the painting instructions regarding the Wagner HVLP units that anyone would need to nail down an excellent finish.

As such, the same directions apply to any of the similar HVLP guns. Exceptions being the more powerful Wagner "Plus" and "Max" models, and the Gleem "No Name" (aka: Graco HV2900)

With those models, only a slight reduction in additional Water added for dilution and a slight increase in speed moving across the surface is all that is required to quantify the existing instructions to govern their specific usage.

One question, it has consistently been over 100 degrees here, should that be a concern? I was planning on painting in my garage but I can paint in the basement if I need to, I would just need to do alot of plastic to cover things to avoid overspray.

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post #38 of 44 Old 07-25-2011, 01:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Humidity, not heat is the governing issue. If you paint using the proper technique, the heat will only help hasten the drying process.

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post #39 of 44 Old 07-25-2011, 11:05 AM
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I bought the Control Spray Plus from Gleem when it was on sale. So, a litle bit less water and a little more speed - okay.
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post #40 of 44 Old 07-30-2011, 06:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hank View Post

I bought the Control Spray Plus from Gleem when it was on sale. So, a litle bit less water and a little more speed - okay.

Always...every time...shoot practice rows onto a sizable sheet of something to determine how well the Unit is spraying.

Judging such on your actual screen surface is not what you want to do.

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post #41 of 44 Old 09-08-2011, 02:42 PM
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MM,

I have the Wagner Control Spray Plus that I'm using to paint some trim work so I get a good feel for the gun before I undertake a SF screen. I have the volume knob (located at the bottom of the trigger) set to about half full. This seems to work for me with the trim latex enamel, but should I set it to full for the SF mix? I think I'm understanding (from reading through earlier posts in this thread) to go full bore with the CS Plus and just control the spray through speed and distance. Correct?

I'll be shooting over fresh drywall, so I'll get some additional practice in spraying a Zinsser primer base before tackling the SF.
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post #42 of 44 Old 07-11-2013, 10:11 AM
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Trying to decide where the breakeven point is (for othger stuff, not a screen) on using a WCS vs. doing it by hand.

How much of a hassle is it to clean the head? I hate cleaning.

Would it be possible to remove the canister and dip the siphon tube into a container of water and spray that through the head to clean it?

That would make it a lot more palatable.

Noah
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post #43 of 44 Old 07-11-2013, 11:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Cleaning either the Wagner Heads or the Graco** Heads is as simple as unscrewing the external Collar Ring, pulling off the Nozzle Guard, and up ending the Head and rinsing a stream of water through it. Yeah, ya gotta rinse out the Paint Cup too, after your all done painting. (**...btw, the Graco's Needle / Nozzle assembly is Brass, and that makes rinsing off even easier...)

If the paint use is diluted to the point it should be, and it's water based, it is not necessary to rinse the Gun out after every coating if the times between each coating is 30 minutes or under. Also, if the care is taken to take a damp cloth and wipe the nozzle off, things get even better. Otherwise, just a small amount of collected build-up on the Nozzle assembly can result in a reduced sized spray pattern.

But 2 hours? No...because by that time the Latex has a chance to congeal onto surfaces...even those inside the Gun, and although they can be cleaned, cleaning then digresses from mere rinsing to scrubbing using a little Pipe Brush. . A quick rinsing of the Head and Feeder Tube is just that...3 minutes at most.

Now if you plan to use Oil Based paint, get the $50.00 Refurb Graco 2900. It has become the Del Facto standard these days, and it's metal components are ideally suited for Oil Paints, Stains, and Varnishes. The Plastic components in the Wagners WILL demand they be cleaned out ASAP because of the drying agents in such oil derived materials.

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post #44 of 44 Old 07-11-2013, 01:24 PM
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ok, thanks for the tips

Noah
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