My WA, DW, aluminum frame screen build - Page 8 - AVS Forum
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post #211 of 240 Old 11-29-2011, 05:42 AM
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I had to look it up, but it seems like D354-60 is the matte finish (the 60 is the finish code). http://samples.wilsonart.com/p-246-d...hite-d354.aspx

It's been a while since I ordered it at a Lowe's location, but I don't recall having a thickness option. I remember reading about different level of stiffness, but again, I don't think I had that option when I ordered.
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post #212 of 240 Old 11-29-2011, 09:19 AM
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Thanks, luebster. I will not give up on it quite yet. Think I will try the method of laying it face-down on the floor and applying the frame to the back side.

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post #213 of 240 Old 12-01-2011, 07:50 PM
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No ripples, hots spots, etc. on my screen. Just hung and leveled it on the wall tonight (minus the velvet border - will do that over the weekend). Watched a little of Star Trek and it looked great to me. Very happy with the performance/cost ratio!
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post #214 of 240 Old 12-01-2011, 09:00 PM
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Not quite sure why the velvet border is so popular, but I still have a bit to learn.

On my DW screen I do have dark curtains (velvet like material) on the left and right, sort of 'theater style' effect, loosely defining the projected area, but the top and bottom have no borders - the top and bottom of the picture just ends about where the DW screen ends. And, to my eyeball, I don't seem to miss not having added a black border. The wall behind is a dark flat blue.

I don't recall anything much different in the commercial theaters. Is the velvet border in other room situations a needed requirement?

Thanks.
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post #215 of 240 Old 12-02-2011, 03:41 PM
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Generally the velvet will absorb the light better than any paint--even the darkest flattest black you can find. This helps define the edge of the screen/viewing area so easier for eyes to 'focus' on the picture and brain knows where the edges are. Also looks neat as well.
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post #216 of 240 Old 12-02-2011, 07:12 PM
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Yup, got my velvet on tonight and it looks great... this will be my temporary screen until we redo the room and I make another bigger, better version!
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post #217 of 240 Old 12-05-2011, 03:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by entakesflight View Post

Thanks, luebster. I will not give up on it quite yet. Think I will try the method of laying it face-down on the floor and applying the frame to the back side.

OMG, has it been 3 years now since my screen build??!! That was the method used on my screen (laid flat on floor and frame attached to back of screen) Just to let everyone know my original screen is still hanging perfectly and absolutely no signs of ripples or the like. It is no longer used for everyday viewing, just for the occassional movie and sporting events.

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post #218 of 240 Old 12-11-2011, 08:11 PM
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Hi guys, I've built my 125" scope screen with 20/80 frame and DW using 20fan's method. I bought some black velvet (5.5 yd) from Hobby Lobby but don't know what's the best way to attach. I want top/bottom borders to be 5 inches wide and left/right borders to be 3 inches wide. Is there some light weight material I can wrap the velvet with to make a long straight border ? I can mount the borders to DW using velcros.
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post #219 of 240 Old 12-12-2011, 02:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranger View Post

Hi guys, I've built my 125" scope screen with 20/80 frame and DW using 20fan's method. I bought some black velvet (5.5 yd) from Hobby Lobby but don't know what's the best way to attach. I want top/bottom borders to be 5 inches wide and left/right borders to be 3 inches wide. Is there some light weight material I can wrap the velvet with to make a long straight border ? I can mount the borders to DW using velcros.

MDF Baseboard Trim would be the least expensive.

6 MM Sintra the thinnest, most rigid and lightweight. Lot's of waste though unless you can find someone who needs a 98" screen made from the remaining material.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #220 of 240 Old 12-12-2011, 08:55 AM
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Hi folks, I'm new to the forum, and first post here.

I'm building a 106" screen with 80/20 and Wilsonart Fashion Grey. I can't thank everyone enough as this has becoming a great project.

My goal is to make it onto the apartmenttherapy website. I'll keep you posted as things develop.
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post #221 of 240 Old 12-12-2011, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwaazi View Post

Hi folks, I'm new to the forum, and first post here.

I'm building a 106" screen with 80/20 and Wilsonart Fashion Grey. I can't thank everyone enough as this has becoming a great project.

My goal is to make it onto the apartmenttherapy website. I'll keep you posted as things develop.

What PJ are you going to use, and how will it be positioned? The WA-FG can produce a bit of glare from the very slight sheen it possesses. Especially if a Light Cannon w/2000 or more lumens is used.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #222 of 240 Old 12-12-2011, 10:45 AM
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I purchased an Epson 3010. It's ceiling mounted at roughly 13' from where the screen will go. At 2200 lumens, do you think I would experience glare? I decided on the material due to ambient light that creeps in during the day time.

I'm not knowledgeable enough to know if the output can be reduced on the projector. Switching from Cinema to Neutral seems to do that. I wouldn't know if that would help.
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post #223 of 240 Old 12-12-2011, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwaazi View Post

I purchased an Epson 3010. It's ceiling mounted at roughly 13' from where the screen will go. At 2200 lumens, do you think I would experience glare? I decided on the material due to ambient light that creeps in during the day time.

I'm not knowledgeable enough to know if the output can be reduced on the projector. Switching from Cinema to Neutral seems to do that. I wouldn't know if that would help.

Yeah....Glare City. Sorry...but it's inevitable.

You could use a Neutral Density Filter to reduce your brightness....but I hate doing something that robs a PJ of what should be an asset.

So you already purchased the WA-FG? If not, haul yourself back from the edge and we can recoup and get you rightly directed.

Shoot...if the 3010 only had Lens Shift, then placing it as high as possible and running in Low Lamp mode might have helped. Cest' la vie

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #224 of 240 Old 12-12-2011, 11:06 AM
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I'll try to cancel my order if it hasn't processed. Would WA Designer White bring me to a better outcome?
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post #225 of 240 Old 12-12-2011, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwaazi View Post

I'll try to cancel my order if it hasn't processed. Would WA Designer White bring me to a better outcome?

Only if you painted it with a good DIY Paint solution, and that would make no sense because there are better substrates to choose from.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #226 of 240 Old 12-13-2011, 05:13 AM
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Thanks MM, order cancelled.

I'll live in a apartment complex and I'm not sure if a 5x10 (more specifically 55"x95") piece would fit inside an elevator.

My constraints also include the need to build the screen as light as possible as space is a premium in nyc.

I'm willing to investigate more and will do more research based on your sage wisdom.
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post #227 of 240 Old 12-13-2011, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwaazi View Post

Thanks MM, order cancelled.

I'll live in a apartment complex and I'm not sure if a 5x10 (more specifically 55"x95") piece would fit inside an elevator.

My constraints also include the need to build the screen as light as possible as space is a premium in nyc.

I'm willing to investigate more and will do more research based on your sage wisdom.

Sintra is quite bendable, in fact a LOT more than the WA laminate. I've loaded 54" x 96" sheets onto Elevators before, so it can be done.

If when you ever move your not afraid of patching several small holes left behind from Drywall screws, the Sintra can be hung directly onto the wall without a Frame. A 5' x 10' sheet cut to 56" x 96" allows for having a 2" border all around that a minimum of fasteners can be shot through...then covered up with Velvet-wrapped Trim. You can be sure you'd have the same issues with hanging a Framed piece of WA Laminate, so the method described is a lot easier and faster and less expensive a proposition.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #228 of 240 Old 12-18-2011, 06:12 AM
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I cancelled the laminate order and I'm reading up materials, masking techniques and the like. Since I have the 80/20 material in house, I'm inclined to make the most of it. Maybe I'll make the opposite side a 2.35:1 screen.

Instead of industrial strength velcro, I'm attaching sintra to the frame with gaffer tape. The sintra material will be the same exact size as the 80/20 frame. 95" x 55"

All I need is some black velvet, french cleats and more time during the weekends to finish this bad boy.
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post #229 of 240 Old 02-09-2012, 11:24 AM
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just to be sure. you attach the laminate to the aluminum frame with velcro only around the perimeter right? no velcro on the vertical support beams?

is this the right velcro?

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25ec...&storeId=10051
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post #230 of 240 Old 02-10-2012, 06:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokarz View Post

just to be sure. you attach the laminate to the aluminum frame with velcro only around the perimeter right? no velcro on the vertical support beams?

is this the right velcro?

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25ec...&storeId=10051

That's exactly the product I used. I applied it to the outer rectangle and my single vertical support beam.

Simply roll out the velcro alongside one length of your frame, cut to length, then cut in half length wise (since it's a 2" wide strip and I'm guessing you've got 1" tubing). You'll need to do some accurate measuring to apply the velcro to the backside of your screen. Just make sure you get it right.

Over 1 year later, zero warping, sagging, waving, etc.
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post #231 of 240 Old 02-10-2012, 11:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luebster View Post

You'll need to do some accurate measuring to apply the velcro to the backside of your screen. Just make sure you get it right.

Over 1 year later, zero warping, sagging, waving, etc.

I just layed the frame on the back of the laminate and traced the frame on the back of the screen. Made a perfect outline for the tape.

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post #232 of 240 Old 02-11-2012, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 20fan View Post

I just layed the frame on the back of the laminate and traced the frame on the back of the screen. Made a perfect outline for the tape.

Or that.
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post #233 of 240 Old 02-23-2012, 10:31 AM
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Hey guys, I will be helping someone put this 8020 frame together. And was wondering how much these weigh when totally finished. Mine will be 59x135, and perhaps a second frame around it for the velvet tape, so I can maximize screen space.
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post #234 of 240 Old 02-24-2012, 06:16 AM
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The frame itself will weigh probably less than 5 pounds. I didn't put it on a scale, but it's remarkably light.
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post #235 of 240 Old 03-07-2012, 06:23 AM
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Read through all eight pages of this thread so far, and I really like the Quick Frame design but I have one question. Has anybody here used this frame design with spandex? I was thinking about switching from BOC to a lighter spandex material or laminate. Also, how heavy does a 54" x 96" frame with laminate weigh generally?
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post #236 of 240 Old 03-11-2012, 10:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheAstronaut View Post

Read through all eight pages of this thread so far, and I really like the Quick Frame design but I have one question. Has anybody here used this frame design with spandex? I was thinking about switching from BOC to a lighter spandex material or laminate. Also, how heavy does a 54" x 96" frame with laminate weigh generally?

I haven't ever actually weighed the finished screen, but my best guess would be less than 15 lbs. More awkward to handle, especially by ones self than anything.

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post #237 of 240 Old 03-12-2012, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by PeterB123 View Post

DP Plex-All

Edit: BTW, I am going to try Stoner's Invisible Glass next to see how it compares. It's a little cheaper and easier to get.

I've been using Stoner's Invisible Glass, and that has become my cleaner of choice for my screen and everything else made of glass or with a high gloss finish.

BTW, I have my black velvet now and will be doing a top/bottom border within the next couple of weeks.
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post #238 of 240 Old 03-12-2012, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheAstronaut View Post

Read through all eight pages of this thread so far, and I really like the Quick Frame design but I have one question. Has anybody here used this frame design with spandex? I was thinking about switching from BOC to a lighter spandex material or laminate. Also, how heavy does a 54" x 96" frame with laminate weigh generally?

i have (sort of. i used the regular 1010 series not the ez frame series). see postings a few threads down:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1375304
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post #239 of 240 Old 03-22-2012, 11:34 AM
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BTW, I have my black velvet now and will be doing a top/bottom border within the next couple of weeks.

Finally, lol.
LL
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post #240 of 240 Old 04-04-2012, 09:55 PM
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Why is there such a price difference when buying from ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/80-20-Inc-1-...item4cff25cb34

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8020-Quick-F...item4cea02403a

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8020-Quick-F...item562d6b6693

48.25" $7.87 x 7

T connector $2.60 x 2

L connector $2.60 x 4

$25 shipping (which is probably a high guess)

$88 for a 50" x 99" frame with one center beam

Doesnt it seem like local distributors are a lot more than this??

Two alpine sws-15d2 drivers for sale $150
erich kit + titanic MK3 $200

Want to measure your subwoofers? check out my dummies guide for a step by step process to Room EQ wizard
http://polaraudio.blogspot.com/2012/01/calibration.html
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