I am making DIY 2.40:1 masking for my 16:9 Elite fixed frame screen - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 53 Old 01-21-2009, 04:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W3bbY View Post

docprego...If you were using it vertical to mask a 2.35 screen to 16:9 do you think it (the .5" rigid covered in felt) would work on a 3/8 width frame if cut to hold by friction?

Please explain that in more detail, I am not certain I understand it fully.

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post #32 of 53 Old 01-23-2009, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docprego View Post

Please explain that in more detail, I am not certain I understand it fully.

I am going to mask the sides when I watch 16:9 as my screen is 2.35:1

My frame tapers in towards the screen and leaves me a 3/8th lip.

I see the foam you used is .5

I was wondering/hoping that I could use the foam and it would be OK resting (well it would be a tight fit so it would hold itself w/o any velcro or magnets etc.) on the 3/8 lip.

Lee

 


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post #33 of 53 Old 01-23-2009, 11:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W3bbY View Post

I am going to mask the sides when I watch 16:9 as my screen is 2.35:1

My frame tapers in towards the screen and leaves me a 3/8th lip.

I see the foam you used is .5

I was wondering/hoping that I could use the foam and it would be OK resting (well it would be a tight fit so it would hold itself w/o any velcro or magnets etc.) on the 3/8 lip.

Should be fine, those side masks will be a lot shorter and they will rest on the inner part of the lower screen frame. Because of that gravity will be much less of a factor. Make them fit snug enough where they will not have any lateral movement, should be easy to do.

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post #34 of 53 Old 03-04-2009, 08:36 PM
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What is everyone using to glue the velvet down?

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post #35 of 53 Old 03-24-2009, 10:06 AM
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docprego (Mike);

There is a post on 3/23 by user 68sting asking about masking, DIY masking ideas
At first I was going to post in his Q thread, then I did a search on "masking" in this forum and came across this (your) build thread.
(more people should use search function)

I can honestly say independently we did almost same method for our manual masking - using foil backed foam board for its better strength, yours was for 16:9 screen to make it for 2.35:1 viewing, mine was for 2.35:1 screen to make it for 16:9 viewing.
Manual masking panel for 2.35:1 screen for 16:9 viewing


I almost never go to this DIY screen forum, because I'm a 2.35:1 CIH person my masking was all done in my screen build thread in that forum.


68sting;
One solution to your Q is in this thread.

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post #36 of 53 Old 03-29-2009, 11:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cburbs View Post

What is everyone using to glue the velvet down?

I use spray adhesive but what a mess it is! The adhesive gets mixed with the velvet dust that is released when you stretch the velvet and creates the stickiest muck that just will not come off your fingers! I wish someone could suggest a better (less messy) way to attach the velvet. On the bright side, although it is a mess it is very effective at securing the velvet.

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post #37 of 53 Old 03-29-2009, 11:40 PM - Thread Starter
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I had a bit of a fiasco with my masking panels recently. When using them last week I noticed that there was a LOT of light spilling over on them, a distractingly large amount. I figured I came this far I might as well make them perfect so I set out to fix them. I measured the bar heights on 4 separate movies, 2 were in the 2.35:1 ratio and ther other 2 were 2.40:1. I measured the bars at 7.5 inches tall each. Somehow I had made the masks 8.25 inches the first time around. While that extra .75 inch may not sound like much it was really bugging me to see the movie image projected that much on to the upper and the lower masks. So I disassembled the masks and cut them down to 7.5 inches. I put the masks back together and recovered them. Unfortunately due to the decreased size the material somehow ended up looking pretty awful after I re stretched it. In addition I managed to get some adhesive on the velvet which was impossible to remove. I am going to have to buy new velvet tomorrow and recover them yet again. But in the meanwhile tonight I was able to install the newly modified masks and give them a real workout. They are now perfect!

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post #38 of 53 Old 03-29-2009, 11:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post

docprego (Mike);

There is a post on 3/23 by user 68sting asking about masking, DIY masking ideas
At first I was going to post in his Q thread, then I did a search on "masking" in this forum and came across this (your) build thread.
(more people should use search function)

I can honestly say independently we did almost same method for our manual masking - using foil backed foam board for its better strength, yours was for 16:9 screen to make it for 2.35:1 viewing, mine was for 2.35:1 screen to make it for 16:9 viewing.
Manual masking panel for 2.35:1 screen for 16:9 viewing


I almost never go to this DIY screen forum, because I'm a 2.35:1 CIH person my masking was all done in my screen build thread in that forum.


68sting;
One solution to your Q is in this thread.

Very interesting that we implemented the same system for the exact opposite situation! This is the second time I have implemented this system, the first was with a DIY 89" screen and that was much simpler. The panels were very lightweight and fit completely within my screen frame. This time the panels are much heavier because they are much bigger and I placed metal edging on both edges of each panel. To further complicate matters my Elite screen has a beveled frame which made placement more of a challenge. In the end they fit via friction just like my old set, surprised me that it worked out so well.

Here is my old masking thread if interested:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post13396880

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post #39 of 53 Old 03-30-2009, 05:41 PM
 
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doc,

which Elite screen do you have?
I'm interested in getting one.

Scott
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post #40 of 53 Old 03-30-2009, 05:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyb View Post

doc,

which Elite screen do you have?
I'm interested in getting one.

Scott

120" fixed frame cinewhite.

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post #41 of 53 Old 03-31-2009, 09:41 AM
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The "DIY SCreen FAQ/Reference thread is priceless, helped me much.
However, it's masking section is old/outdated and should have links to some of the methods outlined more recently.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=646534

Anybody here know "gambit" should have him add this thread as a link in the masking portion.

Mike R,P.E. clickable DIY hot links:

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post #42 of 53 Old 12-13-2009, 08:21 AM
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Doc,

Just made your original version, went together well, fit right into my existing screen, what a difference! Noticed immediatly the masking kept me more focused on the movie itself, rather than the varying shades of gray bars which do draw your attention away. Picked up Triple Black Velvet material at Hobby Lobby, $11.49 yd. They had a online 40% coupon on line, worked out well. Thanks!
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post #43 of 53 Old 12-31-2009, 11:58 AM
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Interesting thread. I want to horizontal mask a 126" BW fixed frame this way until I can afford electrical masking.

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post #44 of 53 Old 12-31-2009, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post

The "DIY SCreen FAQ/Reference thread is priceless, helped me much.
However, it's masking section is old/outdated and should have links to some of the methods outlined more recently.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=646534

Anybody here know "gambit" should have him add this thread as a link in the masking portion.

I recently emailed a moderator to add some of the more recent threads about masking, including my own http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...+masking+trial , as stickies, but nothing came of it.

Having not seen the FAQ prior, I see this would be a good place to have them added.

See ya. Dave

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post #45 of 53 Old 01-05-2010, 09:04 AM
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Has anyone tried using gatorboard for masking?

From what I understand, it is extremely rigid while still light. Would it still be light enough for friction to hold it up?

I was thinking of using your same design with 1/2" gatorboard covered with this material http://www.fpi-protostar.com/flock.htm Since my screen is 118", I think the 1/2" should work better than 3/8" to avoid any warping. There is a gap of 1" from the front of the frame to the screen, so there would still be some spacing in back of the masking without it touching the screen material.

I have a Carada precision screen, and supposedly the prostar material matches the Carada "black hole" velvet very closely.

I've found a local shop that will cut me multiple pieces of gatorboard to size so that I can build several panels for 2.39:1 or 2.35:1 or 4:3. Total cost for all the boards cut by them to size will be $116. It looks like roughly another $100 for the prostar material for all 6 panels.

I'm still putting together my home theater and have several things going on, so this project will have to wait another week or so, but looking forward to it.
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post #46 of 53 Old 01-24-2010, 02:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dustinst22 View Post

Has anyone tried using gatorboard for masking?

From what I understand, it is extremely rigid while still light. Would it still be light enough for friction to hold it up?

I was thinking of using your same design with 1/2" gatorboard covered with this material http://www.fpi-protostar.com/flock.htm Since my screen is 118", I think the 1/2" should work better than 3/8" to avoid any warping. There is a gap of 1" from the front of the frame to the screen, so there would still be some spacing in back of the masking without it touching the screen material.

I have a Carada precision screen, and supposedly the prostar material matches the Carada "black hole" velvet very closely.

I've found a local shop that will cut me multiple pieces of gatorboard to size so that I can build several panels for 2.39:1 or 2.35:1 or 4:3. Total cost for all the boards cut by them to size will be $116. It looks like roughly another $100 for the prostar material for all 6 panels.

I'm still putting together my home theater and have several things going on, so this project will have to wait another week or so, but looking forward to it.

I haven't worked with Gatorboard but I can tell you that my masks are not particularly lightweight. I finished them both top and bottom for an even edge with a piece of aluminum j channel which significantly increased their mass. After a year of use they are still staying firmly in position on friction alone.

Your material looks interesting, good luck and post pics of the final results!

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post #47 of 53 Old 01-24-2010, 07:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dustinst22 View Post

Has anyone tried using gatorboard for masking?

From what I understand, it is extremely rigid while still light. Would it still be light enough for friction to hold it up?

I was thinking of using your same design with 1/2" gatorboard covered with this material http://www.fpi-protostar.com/flock.htm Since my screen is 118", I think the 1/2" should work better than 3/8" to avoid any warping. There is a gap of 1" from the front of the frame to the screen, so there would still be some spacing in back of the masking without it touching the screen material.

I have a Carada precision screen, and supposedly the prostar material matches the Carada "black hole" velvet very closely.

I've found a local shop that will cut me multiple pieces of gatorboard to size so that I can build several panels for 2.39:1 or 2.35:1 or 4:3. Total cost for all the boards cut by them to size will be $116. It looks like roughly another $100 for the prostar material for all 6 panels.

I'm still putting together my home theater and have several things going on, so this project will have to wait another week or so, but looking forward to it.

The Protostar material works and looks fantastic for masking panels, and yes it does match the Carada frame material. Click on the link http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1169586 and later in the thread you'll see pictures of it used on 1/2" rigid insulation with sheetrock corner bead edges. I use tension rods (though any full round material would work) rather than friction fit, and have full flexibility for where I want the panels to position.

See ya. Dave

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post #48 of 53 Old 02-01-2010, 01:36 PM
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Bump for christopher a.

See ya. Dave

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post #49 of 53 Old 04-15-2010, 06:51 AM
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Thanks Jive...I am building a masking system from your great idea! I could not find the metal peices at Lowes...But what I did find is a duplicate peices made from white vinyl...It has the same 1/2 inch area to insert foam board into and comes in a 10 foot length with a nice sharp edge...Trying to decide if Im going to run them under the velvet like yours or paint them flat black and have a clean faced edge with the trim showing...The channels are vinyl J bead part # 15437 @ 1.38 each at Lowes...Thanks...Al
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post #50 of 53 Old 04-15-2010, 07:02 AM
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Once you put the vinyl edging on the panels, check for overall stiffness. One thing I liked about the metal edging is that it makes for a very rigid panel and reinforces the splice where the lengths of insulation come together. As such, I haven't noticed any sag across the almost 12' span to date.

See ya. Dave

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post #51 of 53 Old 04-15-2010, 10:39 AM
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Doin' them this weekend...I think the foam board will keep it rigid, but I will report my findings when complete...Thanks...Al
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post #52 of 53 Old 08-10-2010, 11:59 AM
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Very cool guys - just saw this on EH and appreciate the detailed instructions and parts - including the updated part # for the vinyl J-bead vs. the metal. I'm going for it on my 106" AT screen. Looking forward to the cool results.

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post #53 of 53 Old 10-29-2010, 10:39 AM
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Has anyone tried this with the vinyl j-bars and just stapled into the vinyl j-bars (on the back-side) instead of using glue?
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