RS-MaxxMudd Mix (the official) - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 154 Old 03-15-2010, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmoore55 View Post

The 8100 is a goal but I also have to spend some money on camera lenses and the like this year so I might choose to prioritize more money in the camera area and go with one of the $999 PJ models in 1080p. Optima or Vivitek.

So its still a bit up in the air.

C. Moore

Come on down to earth and smell the Roses. The -$999'ers are a great value, but they are far below the Epson in real contrast. With the others, you will have to increase/darken the screen perceptibly to begin to hope for some parity in visual quality, contrast-wise.

I'm thinking the difference between 35K:1 and 4K:1 contrast will convince you hedging on the image quality of a huge display makes no sense if the cost is truly do-able.

I know a Wholesale Vendor who has incredible deals on Epson 8100-9100-9500 Pkgs w/xtra Bulb & Mount inclu. PM me..... such links are verboten, leastwise on this Forum.

Use to was......there was no choice in the matter, the DIY Screen had to help make the PJ look a lot better than it really was. Hey....it still can and does at those levels. That's always been the most cool thing.....getting crazy value for your money/efforts. But with the exceptional and affordable 1080p PJs, it's now become a case of making them more versatile, as well as augmenting the higher native Contrasts so as to make extreme use of Contrast enhancing features (Auto Apertures and Black Stretching) much less necessary, and by doing so help retain far more shadow detail and off-the-screen brightness.

You can't make a Silk Purse from a Sow's ear, but you can improve the image beyond what it would/could be otherwise by choosing the right match-up between PJ/Screen. It's so obvious many don't even consider such....thinking one or the other can do it all. PJs are coming closer to that goal, as have DIY Screens. IMHO....the Epsons and Pannys of the world today combined with great Screen apps is about as close to perfection as we can hope to achieve at such low buy-in levels.

Everything else above them is just Gravy, and below them is still "All Good" ....that can always look forward to even more future improvement.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #92 of 154 Old 03-15-2010, 09:28 PM
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At the bottom of the RS-MaxxMudd-LL formula, it lists 12 oz. of distilled water. Is the water used when rolling? Because I need to roll it on. Are the 3 metallic paints available anywhere other than Michael's? Thanks.
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post #93 of 154 Old 03-16-2010, 06:47 AM
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I am new to this board and to having my own home theatre setup but have been following for several years since the original posts for mississippi mud and light fusion. Just never got myself off the ground to build my own.

That has changed now that I was able to inherit an Viewsonic VIPJD62103D projector from a friend who no longer wanted his. I don't know much about the projector but I'm hoping it will do the trick and get me started with something at least.

I really would like to build my own screen. I have space available for a 92" diagonal screen and was thinking of using one of the RS-MaxxMudd Mixes.

I have my HT in the basement with only a single window in the room. I do wish to be able to have some lights on behind the seating area but otherwise the room can be dark. The projector is up high approx 11 feet from the screen.

Any advice of which mix would be best in my situation would be appreciated. Based on all I have read I was thinking of attaching a piece of reflective mylar to a 1/2 inch mdf board using wallpaper paste to get all the wrinkles out and then spary painting this with the paint mix. I am hoping to get some good pop to the image by using the mylar. Mirror would be just too expensive.

If there are any other options, please let me know what you think.

Thanks
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post #94 of 154 Old 03-16-2010, 06:49 AM - Thread Starter
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the water amount is required for rolling and spraying... however, most people who have sprayed would concure that they added considerbly more water for the right spray pattern for the wagner cs. if you are rollling your welcome to subtract 2-3oz of water from the formula.

as for the delta metallics. you can also purchase them at hobby lobby. walmart. menards. jo-ann fabrics. it's just that michaels always carries the 4oz and 8oz sizes. the other stores are more likely to only carry the 2oz sizes.
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post #95 of 154 Old 03-20-2010, 02:13 PM
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I've been around on forums here and there for a while and I just wanted to say that the MississippiMan has been one of the more cordial and helpful and knowledgeable people around. You don't often run into folks like him and its a real privilege when you do. God knows the world would be a much better place if the folks you ran into out in the world were like this.

Cmoore
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post #96 of 154 Old 03-20-2010, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmoore55 View Post

i've been around on forums here and there for a while and i just wanted to say that the mississippiman has been one of the more cordial and helpful and knowledgeable people around. You don't often run into folks like him and its a real privilege when you do. God knows the world would be a much better place if the folks you ran into out in the world were like this.

Cmoore

+1000 !!!

I now enjoy a wonderful "S-I-L-V-E-R" screen (...which I know has nothing to do with this thread ...) due to his helping me knock one out. Even though I'm only employing a lowly Sharp DT-510, people still can't believe how good my picture is when they see it. And these are fellow "home theater people" at that.

Thanks again MMan!!
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post #97 of 154 Old 03-21-2010, 04:58 AM
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Thanks Guys,

How does one respond to such....? I suppose the best way is/has already been done.

Thank you both...a lot. Such commentary always recharges the "Helper Batteries". I keep going...and going...and going...and going.........

Good thing Wabbit Season is over.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #98 of 154 Old 03-23-2010, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Thanks Guys,

How does one respond to such....? I suppose the best way is/has already been done.

That you both...a lot. Such commentary always recharges the "Helper Batteries". I keep going...and going...and going...and going.........

Good thing Wabbit Season is over.

You're very welcome sir!

But really, you're the one who deserves all the thanks in this situation, you really went above and beyond for me. As I've seen you do for so many others as well.

Stay cool bro.
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post #99 of 154 Old 04-02-2010, 12:45 PM
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Is Behr#4850 exterior the correct white to be used in mixing all the different RS-MaxxMudd Mixtures talked about in this thread?
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post #100 of 154 Old 04-02-2010, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The big picture View Post

Is Behr#4850 exterior the correct white to be used in mixing all the different RS-MaxxMudd Mixtures talked about in this thread?

It's not specifically specified as such...just another choice that represents a more durable finish option. It must be "Flat" though. Word of caution...the "Exterior" has more of a 'stink' to it while curing out.

I've used 1050 (Interior Flat) and 1850 (Interior Flat Enamel) when spraying...and recently I've become a fan of the 1850, and despite what others have said about it lending a slight sheen, when spraying a mix containing 1850 I've experienced none of that.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #101 of 154 Old 04-02-2010, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

It's not specifically specified as such...just another choice that represents a more durable finish option. It must be "Flat" though. Word of caution...the "Exterior" has more of a 'stink' to it while curing out.

I've used 1050 (Interior Flat) and 1850 (Interior Flat Enamel) when spraying...and recently I've become a fan of the 1850, and despite what others have said about it lending a slight sheen, when spraying a mix containing 1850 I've experienced none of that.

Hey Mississippi Mind reader..Ya did it again.
I posted my question and left for HomeDepot. When I came home and log-in to AVS you had already answered my qustion.

I did get the 4850 but they do have the 1050. other than smell, it sounds like you don't think I need to exchange the 4850 for the 1050 ?
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post #102 of 154 Old 04-02-2010, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The big picture View Post

Hey Mississippi Mind reader..Ya did it again.
I posted my question and left for HomeDepot. When I came home and log-in to AVS you had already answered my qustion.

I did get the 4850 but they do have the 1050. other than smell, it sounds like you don't think I need to exchange the 4850 for the 1050 ?

You should do fine. With the additional Poly in the Mix, and it being diluted with Water as well, things won't be all that bad, smell wise. But just the same the paint will take a bit longer to dry between coats and to cure out (Gas out) overall. So be so advised.

If your spraying, things will be less an issue than if you apply thicker coats via Rolling.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #103 of 154 Old 04-03-2010, 12:19 AM
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I will be rolling.
It feels like rolling is dead.
Wish I had a Wagner..One day I will, but right now every penny seems to go to getting the theater up and running with no money left for new tools...

Thank You for your time and help MississippiMan.
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post #104 of 154 Old 04-03-2010, 10:30 AM - Thread Starter
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when it comes to rolling... two feet in the grave is pretty much where it's at.

consider that 5 to 6 years ago... the best mixes were at most a 1 to 2 ratio of metallics to UPW...
but a mix such a this has ratios up to 5 to 1 metallics to UPW...
so trying to evenly spread this with a roller is like trying to ice skate on a clean sheet of ice without making a track. good luck.

but if you must...
then do yourself a huge favor and add an additional 3-4oz of UPW to the mix formula.

yes, it will lighten your mix slightly and make it a tad less ambient friendly but give yourself less headache when it comes to making a screen that's free of roller marks
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post #105 of 154 Old 04-18-2010, 07:21 AM
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Hey guys, I just ordered an Epson 8500UB and would like to diy my own screen. I've been a member of these forums for a while, but haven't posted. Can anyone give me any help/guidance on which formulas to use to get the best result? I am looking at a 70 to 75" screen because we are only sitting about 9' away, and the top of the screen is only 58" off the ground because of the way my ceiling comes down in the bonus room, so I really can't go bigger. I would say there will be moderate light in the day, but will be able to control it to some extent. Most of our viewing up there is done at night anyway.

Any help would be appreciated. My projector is getting here this week and I'd like to go get the materials to get the screen started today.

Thanks
Tim
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post #106 of 154 Old 04-18-2010, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gowings23 View Post

Hey guys, I just ordered an Epson 8500UB and would like to diy my own screen. I've been a member of these forums for a while, but haven't posted. Can anyone give me any help/guidance on which formulas to use to get the best result? I am looking at a 70 to 75" screen because we are only sitting about 9' away, and the top of the screen is only 58" off the ground because of the way my ceiling comes down in the bonus room, so I really can't go bigger. I would say there will be moderate light in the day, but will be able to control it to some extent. Most of our viewing up there is done at night anyway.

Any help would be appreciated. My projector is getting here this week and I'd like to go get the materials to get the screen started today.

Thanks
Tim

Hi Tim...and welcome to posting actively!

First off, to save money I'd suggest you consider using Thrifty White Hardboard @ $12.00 for a 4' x 8' x 1/4" sheet, cut to 68" x 38" (78" diagonal @ 16x9 )
That will still leave you with a full 20" from the Floor.

You could consider this option too. have the TWH cut to 91" x 38" in 2.39:1 Wide Screen format. Doing so would allow you the maximum sized 78" diagonal image in 16x9, but by employing Zoom and Shift, when you go Wide Screen, you get to enjoy a much larger 98" diagonal image. All you'd need to complete what would be a very adaptable set up would be simple Travis Rod Pull Curtains made from a Dark non-gloss Fabric (Black Velvet would be best) to mask the additional 11.5" of unused Screen a each side when in 16:9 mode.

That's exactly what I'd for myself if I was so restricted to such a small Screen height. If you stick with 38" x 68", in Wide Screen your image would only be 28" tall. Pooh on that !!!!!

With that PJ and the chosen (...or suggested...) Screen sizes, as well as your needing to deal with moderate ambient light at times, I'm going to suggest three choices in order of effectiveness (with performance vs ease of creation noted)

The following specs are also based on the "larger" screen ideal.
(...smaller Screen Foot Lambert specs in Red...)

Silver Fire 3.0
Absolutely the best possible Ambient Light performance that also provides a extremely bright and vibrant image in the dark. It must be sprayed to work at it's best. Estimated gain will be 1.1 with 23 fl.of off the Screen brightness.
(40 fl)

RS-MaxxMudd Retro
The darkest of the RS-MaxxMudd Family. Second best ambient Light / Contrast boosting performance I know of. It too needs spraying due to a high metallic content, but is easier to collect and mix than Silver Fire. Gain is also 1.2, up from 1.1 due to it being a slightly lighter shade of Gray and containing more Silver Metallic than Silver Fire. 23 fl.of off the Screen brightness.
(44 fl)

N7 Neutral Gray w/Poly
The easiest application to mix, with such a bright PJ and a smaller Screen size, it will not fail you or leave you disappointed by any means. You can also Roll this app on, but spraying will bring out it's best possible resulting performance. Gain will only be .8 at most, so it's really only to be considered a viable option should you decide to keep the Screen in 16:9 format and just 78" diagonal you'd get 29 fl of off the Screen brightness. 2.39:1 would usher in 16 fl

N8 Neutral Gray w/Poly
Same general idea as just above, but Gain is increased to .9 and in 2.39:1 Foot Lamberts jumps up a bit to 18 fl. In 16:9 it's a full 33 fl.

Be sure to check out what degree of PJ Positioning leeway you have. If you have any more facts to offer up, or need more instructions, you know what to do.....

MMan

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post #107 of 154 Old 04-18-2010, 03:45 PM
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Thanks for your thoughts, very much appreciated. I will look at the extra wide screen to see if it will work and let you know.

As far as spraying, I have an old Wagner spray gun that is a pretty basic model. Would I need to get something newer/better? If so, any recommendations?

Also, is there one best place like H Depot that I could just go buy all of the paints and materials? I've read through a few threads and my head is spinning...lol! I'm really looking forward to this challenge though.
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post #108 of 154 Old 05-11-2010, 06:47 AM
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What kind of paint cost am I looking at, total, for the LL version? I can only roller...
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post #109 of 154 Old 05-11-2010, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by velvet396 View Post

What kind of paint cost am I looking at, total, for the LL version? I can only roller...


Hmmmmm,

As not noted on your own Thread, I see you state the inability to Spray. How come? Are you aware how easy, inexpensive, quick, and neat it can be? And just how wonderful the end results would be as well?

Your paint will cost you about $45.00 at most to paint your wall. Reconsider your stance on Rolling vs Spraying and you'll be headed down a Yellow Brick Road with the Wizard...not the Wicked Witch waiting to greet you.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #110 of 154 Old 05-13-2010, 01:18 PM
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I am sorry about my stupid question. I am new to DIY painting. I have a sharp xv-z12000 projector and I plan to use on a 98 inch screen. Room has some ambient light with dark room paint. What would be the best paint solution for me that I can spray on the screen. Do I just buy the various paints and mix them and will the total quantity be enough for my screen and do I need to apply more than 1 coat.
Thanks in advance for your reply.

shiv
Lexington, KY
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post #111 of 154 Old 05-13-2010, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shiv View Post

I am sorry about my stupid question. I am new to DIY painting. I have a sharp xv-z12000 projector and I plan to use on a 98 inch screen. Room has some ambient light with dark room paint. What would be the best paint solution for me that I can spray on the screen. Do I just buy the various paints and mix them and will the total quantity be enough for my screen and do I need to apply more than 1 coat.
Thanks in advance for your reply.

Use the Mix listed at the top of the first page of this thread. Apply(spray) one "Duster coat' and three normal coats.

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post #112 of 154 Old 05-13-2010, 06:45 PM
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So I have to ask after reading through most of this thread and the DIY screen area. Is the Wagner the only way to go for spraying a screen? I am pretty broke and would love to spray a screen on but being broke and not needing a sprayer other than painting the screen I need to find a cheap option or just do a roll on paint solution.
So I guess I am wondering if, no laughing now or rude jokes, will this sprayer from Harbor Freight work for the purpose of getting one of your Mixes up on my wall reasonably well? I know you haven't used it but if anyone else has i would love to know what your thoughts are.
Here is the link to the sprayer.
http://www.harborfreight.com/electri...gun-47274.html
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post #113 of 154 Old 05-13-2010, 08:26 PM
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I can tell you that sprayer won't work. You'll need a HVLP sprayer.
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post #114 of 154 Old 05-14-2010, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffSM View Post

I can tell you that sprayer won't work. You'll need a HVLP sprayer.

I'm not so sure about that easily a dismissal of a Electric Sprayer than uses a 0.021" sized Tip intended for thinned paints and sealers.

At $15.00, by my reckoning it has to be worth a try.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #115 of 154 Old 05-14-2010, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

I'm not so sure about that easily a dismissal of a Electric Sprayer than uses a 0.021" sized Tip intended for thinned paints and sealers.

At $15.00, by my reckoning it has to be worth a try.

MM: This is what I've found in the user manual:
Do not spray asbestos, metallic paints, glazes, red lead, cement, ground chalk, 23. abrasive grainy paints containing lime, or bleach through your spray gun. These will severely damage the spray gun.

Would the colorant used in the MaxMud be considered metallic paints?
Here is the link to the manual:
http://manuals.harborfreight.com/man...7999/47274.pdf
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post #116 of 154 Old 05-14-2010, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSEng View Post

MM: This is what I've found in the user manual:
Do not spray asbestos, metallic paints, glazes, red lead, cement, ground chalk, 23. abrasive grainy paints containing lime, or bleach through your spray gun. These will severely damage the spray gun.

Would the colorant used in the MaxMud be considered metallic paints?
Here is the link to the manual:
http://manuals.harborfreight.com/man...7999/47274.pdf

They are considering paints that would be abrasive, and wear down the Needle/Nozzle tolerances.

The RS-MM contains a high proportion of Polyurethane and Water, and is a very thin mix. The metallics are in there...yes, but they are pretty well lubricated and flow freely out of a properly matched Mix (low viscosity) and the correct Nozzle/Air Pressure.

Dude...get a $60.00 Wagner CS-DD and if you don't like it after you try it out on something...say...120" diagonal in size, well just send it back...or Hey! better still, offer it up on here afterward to another needful Member with a $20.00 "as is" discount. Everybody gets happy that way..and I assure you...you'll have NO problem finding a willing participant.

Probably should have been done before, I'm a thinnin.....

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post #117 of 154 Old 05-14-2010, 12:23 PM
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MissMan suggested a RS MM std paint, but I do not see a std, just retro, ll and hgv. Any ideas?
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post #118 of 154 Old 05-14-2010, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

They are considering paints that would be abrasive, and wear down the Needle/Nozzle tolerances.

The RS-MM contains a high proportion of Polyurethane and Water, and is a very thin mix. The metallics are in there...yes, but they are pretty well lubricated and flow freely out of a properly matched Mix (low viscosity) and the correct Nozzle/Air Pressure.

Dude...get a $60.00 Wagner CS-DD and if you don't like it after you try it out on something...say...120" diagonal in size, well just send it back...or Hey! better still, offer it up on here afterward to another needful Member with a $20.00 "as is" discount. Everybody gets happy that way..and I assure you...you'll have NO problem finding a willing participant.

Probably should have been done before, I'm a thinnin.....

Well said! I have been waiting on the fences not happy with the 106" BOC's size and the picture. At this point I am tempted to do SilverFire or Maxx. I mean why even try gray + poly if I want a 120" screen and my projy is only 720P? I have been using Epson HC720 in theater mode which gives good picture on gray but not bright enough for whites on gray. In other modes the Pj is too loud for my taste but I am willing to move it away from seating increasing throw from 12.5' to 16.5'. Room's wall and ceiling are totally white and will not change.
I'll create a separate thread for my room specs and hope you guys will come through for me. I have to warn though I have only painted once upon a time and that was using water paints in elemetary school!!
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post #119 of 154 Old 05-17-2010, 05:47 AM
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post #120 of 154 Old 05-17-2010, 06:13 AM
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Interesting. Both Wag'sters are priced within $5.00 of each other. But the Power Painter is not as easy to use/clean and it is not rated for "Indoor Use'.

It speaks of putting more paint onto the surface w/less over spray, but even so, it's not a HVLP unit and that says to me it will not produce nearly as fine a spray as the "Control Spray Double Duty'

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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