145" (2.35:1) Wilson Art DW Screen for AE3000 now complete - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 22 Old 06-03-2009, 11:34 AM - Thread Starter
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I finally completed my Willson Art screen. It measures 145" diagonal on 2.35 material and I will mask it down to a 112" for 16:9 images.
The picture was a noticeable improvement over the white primed wall I as projecting on up until now.
But, here's the warning. I ordered 12' x 5' sheet and it was very hard to deal with. The first sheet was defective so I returned it.
It breaks very easily. It broke into 3 pieces when I rolled it back up to return it.

When I got the second sheet I laid it down on poly on my basement slab so it would flatten out before gluing it to the frame.
Problem is I have a noticeable line / crease in the middle of the screen from the top to bottom.
Wife doesn't notice it, but, I do. Sure the screen cost $300 all materials in (saved $1,500 in comparison to Grandview 133" 2.35:1) but I'm really p*ssed about the crease. I was very careful. So this is just a heads up to people thinking about doing this.
If you can pull it off with no defects I think it will match the results of any screen manufacturer. The nice thing to is that you can custom size it to any requirement you have. As you get up into the bigger sizes the sizes are more limited. I didn't have enough height to fit a 120" 16:9 so the ability to do custom height was awesome.
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post #2 of 22 Old 06-03-2009, 12:27 PM
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man. i know for sure i could not live with any flaws in my screen...hence why i built my own fixed frame...i just couldn't stand the waves in my electric (which apparently only i could see) but hell, i have a great projector and i want the best image i can get. post some pictures of your screen ok? thanks
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post #3 of 22 Old 06-03-2009, 04:11 PM - Thread Starter
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I built the frame on the flat basement slab.
I had the laminate laid out on the basement slab, on poly, as soon as I got it out of the box. It flattened out perfect within a day. But, it took on this crease while it was on the slab. I used the poly sheet so it wouldn't absorb moisture from the slab.
Moral of the story, the laminate was not as easy to work with as I thought.
Especially trying to move a 12 x 5 sheet by myself. The gluing to the frame was a task too.

But, if it didn't have the crease in it it would be a perfect picture.
Just be careful when handling and cutting the laminate.
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post #4 of 22 Old 06-17-2009, 03:42 PM
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jjyj1977

I am considering a very similar setup. Can you please post some screenshots of your setup in action?
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post #5 of 22 Old 06-24-2009, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjyj1977 View Post

I built the frame on the flat basement slab.
I had the laminate laid out on the basement slab, on poly, as soon as I got it out of the box. It flattened out perfect within a day. But, it took on this crease while it was on the slab. I used the poly sheet so it wouldn't absorb moisture from the slab.
Moral of the story, the laminate was not as easy to work with as I thought.
Especially trying to move a 12 x 5 sheet by myself. The gluing to the frame was a task too.

But, if it didn't have the crease in it it would be a perfect picture.
Just be careful when handling and cutting the laminate.

Curious , what was the thickness of your particular sheet ? I'm also looking at a 5' x 12' sheet but was considering the thicker version (1.2mm I think).

Scott.......................

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post #6 of 22 Old 06-25-2009, 01:57 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm not sure what the laminate thickness was so it was probably a standard size. I know you can order it in a regular sheet or post form which is easier to bend for rounded cabinetry.
I will post pictures soon. I don't have the trim in my room yet so it looks a little unfinished. (I ordered carpet for my basement from home depot (1500SF) and it was all defective and needs to be torn out...but that's a whole other story in the home theater saga)

I did watch my first blu-ray this weekend the new James Bond QOS.
It was unbelievable how much better the picture was than hi-def cable.
I guess that's more of a review on the Panny 3000 than the wilson art laminate.
Other than my complaint at the top of the thread, the WA laminate is awesome. The borders are wrapped in black velvet and the screen looks like it was bought not built. It's just missing the fancy logo ie...dalite, stewart ect.
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post #7 of 22 Old 06-29-2009, 12:27 PM
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Another question , when you got your 5 x 12 sheet was the front surface protected in any way ? Was there a "sticky" sheet over the face or was it just open ? I'm a little concerned that a large sheet on an open delivery truck could pick up a few stone chips along the way .

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post #8 of 22 Old 06-29-2009, 01:51 PM
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Hi jjyj1977,

I noticed that Wilsonart sells two different laminates called Designer White.

The first is Designer White D354-60
http://samples.wilsonart.com/p-246-d...e-d354-60.aspx

The second is Designer White D354-SL
http://samples.wilsonart.com/p-548-d...e-d354-sl.aspx

Which one did you make your screen with?
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post #9 of 22 Old 06-30-2009, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harpmaker View Post

Hi jjyj1977,

I noticed that Wilsonart sells two different laminates called Designer White.

The first is Designer White D354-60
http://samples.wilsonart.com/p-246-d...e-d354-60.aspx

The second is Designer White D354-SL
http://samples.wilsonart.com/p-548-d...e-d354-sl.aspx

Which one did you make your screen with?

From all that I have heard (and used myself) Designer White D354-60 is the choice most people use. Check out my frame/screen build in my sig.

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post #10 of 22 Old 06-30-2009, 06:29 PM
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Thanks 20fan!

It seems the links I posted no longer work. Strange....
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post #11 of 22 Old 06-30-2009, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjyj1977 View Post

I finally completed my Willson Art screen. It measures 145" diagonal on 2.35 material....

No offense, but...



I'd really like to see some pics of your build (as two others have already posted). Pretty, pretty please with sugar and cherries on top can you post at least ONE pic of your screen?


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post #12 of 22 Old 07-05-2009, 10:41 AM
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I tried a Wilsonart/Formica/laminate solution early on but the minor texture and luster was noticeable. First thing I'd do after getting it up would be paint it with the screen solution of your choosing.
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post #13 of 22 Old 07-06-2009, 09:40 AM
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Yes i would like to see pix and hear more feedback about the ae3000 performance on this screen. I also have the AE3000 and am planning on getting the same DW screen. its only a 45min drive for me to go pick it up from wilsonart in orlando. However it wont be for awhile as we are just starting to build a house and it wont be done until near the end of the year. I will have a 16x21 room to work with for my theater.

How does it look? any hotspotting issues? how is your placement? above? even? shifted?

Thanks


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post #14 of 22 Old 07-17-2009, 01:37 PM
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I have the same size screen 145" in DW with an hc5500 and mine is incredible. I've had it since winter and I love it. I haven't had much luck doing it justice with a camera. But I will give a huge thumbs up to this setup.

Ps the texture and sheen are just perfect.

But that's just me.......
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post #15 of 22 Old 07-28-2009, 07:22 AM
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Hmmm, my 5' x 12' sheet came rolled up in box from HD.
Upon taking home and un-rolling no damage/no crease, was I lucky?

Glad I had a second set of hands to help, I can't imagining working with such a large sheet by myself.
My screen build details in signature.


I'm very-very satisfied with the end result.

I feel for you there is a material imperefection(sp) that you see.

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post #16 of 22 Old 07-28-2009, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audixium View Post

No offense, but...



I'd really like to see some pics of your build (as two others have already posted). Pretty, pretty please with sugar and cherries on top can you post at least ONE pic of your screen?

Might as well put the lid on the Sugar bowl, and pop those Cherries into your mouth, 'cause sumbody who is not a Happy Camper isn't much inclined to show his "crease" to everyone.

Or mebbe he every reason to do so.......

FWIW....that is a very funny picture. I'm stealin' it.

How's Littleton? The Wife? I hear paint'n season is short way up der

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post #17 of 22 Old 07-28-2009, 06:33 PM
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Question for you guys.

What type of glue should I use to glue my Designer White Laminate to a wood frame? I don't have the room for a border edge so I can't screw it down.
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post #18 of 22 Old 07-28-2009, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trax416 View Post

Question for you guys.

What type of glue should I use to glue my Designer White Laminate to a wood frame? I don't have the room for a border edge so I can't screw it down.

Contact Cement (...briefly re positionable kind...) is best, because you need both a firm grip, and something that spreads/brushes out extremely flat, leaving no ridges or bumps that can distort the image.

To get the best results though, applying the adhesive to both surfaces, waiting the prescribed amount of "Tack Time", then applying the two similarly coated surfaces together is of course the "best" method, but that way involves a "do it right or else" situation as far as putting down the laminate exactly where you want it.

This can be done easiest by laying the Laminate down on it's face, marking out the perimeter of the wood assemblies, applying first the adhesive to the laminate, then the wood (...it'll soak into and dry on the wood much faster...) and then laying each piece of wood down exactly in place. Afterward, installing any metal or wood bracing becomes a easy chore

Using the re positional type means that you can apply the material while the adhesive is still wet, and slide it a bit into position. But that sort of method also requires "Blocking and Clamping" to hold the material in place until it dries, whereas the former application method will make the glued surface seize the material and NOT let go.

Be sure to sand down your wood to a smooth surface, and then wipe clean with first a dampened cloth, then a dry cloth so the surface has no dust on it.

If you do it right, the two surfaces will effectively become as one. Don't do it right, and they still are one....but unfortunately "one" big mess.

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post #19 of 22 Old 07-31-2009, 10:01 AM
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+1 on MM said.
You'd be surprised how much holding power the contact cement has to clean wood. I used the "instant" grip cement with a helper (my wife) and some home-maid jigs to ensure the sheet was correctly lined up length wise.
Did 2 dry runs, got our procedure worked out, applied the cement, let it correctly dry, presto done.
The dry runs were key, gave confidence in not wasting time/$$.



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post #20 of 22 Old 08-08-2009, 08:25 PM
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Mike, that's one of the finest looking composite Partial Torus Frames I've seen...and I've seen most all of 'em. Mostly thought them wholly redundant. but yours looks great...and if your using a "morph" lens...advisable.

Is that Puppy "skinned"? How about that ol' Eye candy?

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post #21 of 22 Old 08-11-2009, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Mike, that's one of the finest looking composite Partial Torus Frames I've seen...and I've seen most all of 'em. Mostly thought them wholly redundant. but yours looks great...and if your using a "morph" lens...advisable.

Is that Puppy "skinned"? How about that ol' Eye candy?

MM;
I'm using Panamorph UH380 a-lens, here is grid projection onto the curved frame prior to skin, lens was not fully dialed in at this shot:


Maybe this fall when I put some 703 fiberglass behind the frame as bass absorber I'll do some pincushion on flat wall vs curved screen study.

Side pict, just frame and "skinned" but prior to the velvet border:


Mtg to wall:


Eye candy - here is one of my "showcase" picts. No photoshop, just simple digital point/shoot mounted on tripod:


Like I said, thx to many here for showing me the DIY way.

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post #22 of 22 Old 08-26-2009, 03:12 AM
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jjyj1977,

That is just about exactly the setup I am going with at least temporarily. When I do phase 2 with built-ins, motorized drapes, etc, I MAY go to a commercial or painted screen, depending on how happy I am with this at the time.

I am going a little narrower than yours, to try to work within a 10' wide sheet. I am trying to calculate the luminance coming off the screen for various combinations of size and lamp modes on the AE3000. Can you (or anyone reading) point me to a calculator that will work? Can you say what projector lumens the Projector Central Calculator Pro uses (only uses an unknown default lamp output, not sure if it is full on or a reduced mode)? I am trying to balance sizes, varying ambient conditions for varying purposes, and new vs aged bulb - creates quite a mtrix of combinations.
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