My approach to building a screen - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 1 Old 07-03-2009, 11:25 PM - Thread Starter
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First of all, I did not take any pictures during construction, but will try to get some diagrams up asap. I will also post finished result shortly.

My goal was to build a relatively large "floating" borderless fixed screen , that is acoustically transparent.

For Material, I used Sheerweave 4500. There are other options out there (some that were not available when I bought the material), but for my purposes, it works very well. I do have an Epson 6100, one of the projectors that are said to be a bad combination with this material due to Moire, but I believe my size/viewing distance/rotation of the material has made this a non-issue for me (after a couple of hours of viewing at least). I bought the widest size available (98"?) and 11 feet length.

Some people recommended backing material, so I bought some loudspeaker grille covering material, since this is also acoustically transparent.

Due to room and material limitations,I ended up on a screen that is 110" x 62" (or 126" diagonally). I could not go much larger due to roomheight, and since I wanted to do at least 15 degree angle on the material to eliminate moire, this is what it ended up on. Perfect size for the room, by the way!!

I went to one of those home improvement places and picked up the following:
-3 pieces of 1x3 poplar, 10 foot each
-1 piece of 1x2 poplar, 10 foot
-3 pieces of quarter round, 10 foot each
-packet of 4 angle iron pieces w/screws (to connect corners)
-packet of 4 straight iron pieces w/screws (to attach braces)

Other than that, I had a nail gun w/small nails, staple gun w/light duty staples

1. cut 2 of the 1x3 poplar pieces to 110" each
2. cut 3rd 1x3 poplar piece into two 57" pieces
3. cut 1x2 poplar into two 57" pieces
4. laid it out, spaced the 1x2 pieces as braces, approx w/34" space between
5. screwed in place all angle/straight iron pieces
6. turned over the frame, cut 2 of the quarter round to 110" but mitered edges like a picture frame.
7. took remaining piece of quarter round and tried to cut to mitered 62". My only mistake of the day...10foot piece cannot fit 2x62"....On one side I used some leftover from the other quarter round, and filled in the remaining portion that way.
8. fastened them all using nailgun, from top. hammered in the ones that did not go into the wood all the way.
9. taped all corner w/elecrical tape (which I stapled in place) as well as a couple of other "rough" areas.
10. laid out speaker cloth on floor, and put frame face down on top.
11. stapled tight all the way round. Not too critical as it stretches a lot, so errors are easy to fix. hammered in some bad staples.
12. laid out sheerweave similar to step 10.
13. stapled all sides center first, and rotated sides while moving towards corners. This is a two man job! Needs a lot of force to pull, so stapling at same time would be hard. Had to redo one corner (3 staples), but after that, perfect!
14. trim off excess
15. do nice job on corners (have to admit, I did not do this yet...)

This is how I hung it up. I took advantage of the fact that I have a small basement window where I put my center channel and will put this in front of..:

Need 2x6 (or larger) boards, 2 of them - at least 12" long. 3 pieces of 2x1 (6foot each)

Fastened these so one sticks out on each side of the window (fastened to inside of window sill, as far up that it butts in window sill 'ceiling".

Attached (centered) 2 of the 2x1 pieces across the above pieces. (horizontally, with a similar gap to the "height" of the 2x1 that is remaining

Fastened remaining 2x1 (centered) to the two vertical braces in the frame. also made some small rotatable pieces on each end, so that once you put it in place, rotate it, and it sits firm.

I know this may be hard to picture, so diagrams are coming shortly.....

lots of credit to eldamar for the way he built his frame. I took several ideas from his tutorial.

I'm very happy with the end result!
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