"Beginner's Delight" DIY Screen Paint - Page 2 - AVS Forum
View Poll Results: Which DIY Screen Solution did you use?
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Matte Neutral Gray or Neutral Gray + Satin Polycrylic 0 0%
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post #31 of 154 Old 12-09-2009, 04:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schmezzy View Post

I'm quite happy with the new screen. The gray tint provides a better ambient light picture then Killz2 or BO cloth did, and I do not seem to have lost anything in gain (and may have even gained). I will be upgrading projector soon for more lumens, probably to a 8500UB, in which case I may go darker on the gray tint for a better ambient light picture. I had done research on metallic mixes, etc. but this performs so well I won't bother experimenting with others unless I find myself with time on my hands.

Schmezzy

Thanks for writing an excellent and informative post. And with only 4 posts to your credit in 4 years I'm very tempted to go read the other three. Your experience with white, gray and enhanced sheen levels thru the careful addition of poly, and doing visual verification as the test of what you wanted to achieve, is exactly the same method several of us have followed with similar results. Thanks for adding to the data pool for others to build on.

As to comments made to disparage this method or point to its limitations by others, I don't think some people will ever understand the physics of reflected light coupled with the anatomy of the human eye and brain working in concert. Who cares if BOC is 1.0 or .85 in its reflective index. You pointed out that you were guessing not measuring, and more importantly you were comparing and explaining that comparison. Most people don't have a calibrated block of calcium carbonate or whatever they use to establish unity gain, but do have an idea of what BOC looks like projected to and your even better comparison was the Kilz primer.

The bottom line is you are now getting a level of returning foot lamberts to your eyes that is acceptable and producing a pleasing image. You are doing that while maintaining better ambient light performance than before, and have reached a point where your performance has exceeded your desire for ambient light. In doing so with a simple method that required minimal tools and equipment and skills most DIYers would feel comfortable trying. You even pointed out that you have done wall painting in the past and like many of us have found the poly seems to add an ease in getting the paint to level and smooth out, as long as the method of maintaining a wet edge between passes is done.

In your future you mentioned more lumens and most likely a projector capable of better CR. Both of these things should benefit you with this same approach, and yes possibly a darker screen. The idea that you couldn't tailor this method to a better brighter projector without hot spotting is balderdash.

Once again thanks for a great post. Enjoy your screen, and looking forward to your next post in a year or so..


Bud

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post #32 of 154 Old 12-13-2009, 10:20 PM
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OT arguments removed, infractions issued. Let's stay on topic, and avoid the personality issues...
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post #33 of 154 Old 12-23-2009, 03:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Just a bump for all those newbies looking for a simple yet effective DIY Screen Painting solution.

Start at the beginning!
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post #34 of 154 Old 01-01-2010, 11:05 AM
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Thank you Tiddler for setting out such a great Beginner's Delight thread, and for the videos too.

My husband and I just finished painting our screen using the CIL + Polyacrylic method. I thought I would post some of our experiences to give back to the community that helped us out with this low-cost DIY painted screen!

We have an older Viewsonic PJ552 projector with many many hours of bulb use (more than double the life expectancy - this is our main TV we've used it nearly every day for approximately 4 years).

We had a previous screen that we painted with Digital Goo. Recently though, we decided to change the location of our screen, so we needed to re-create a screen. Our Digital Goo was painted directly on the wall, and therefore not moveable to the new location. Both the new and old locations are in a room with nearly floor to ceiling windows that have blackout curtains with so-so coverage (my husband keeps saying we need one more panel).

Due to economic conditions, we decided we didn't want to go with another Digital Goo screen, we thought we would try something lower cost to see how it compares. (I.e. Can we live with the difference in the screen given the difference in price?)

For those in Ottawa, this might help you with your search for CIL paint:
- We first went to the Canadian Tire in Bell's Corners, they did not know what to do with the code 00NN 62/000 W/B or the colour named Universal Grey.
- We went to Home Depot in Kanata and they not only carry CIL paint, but the guy there was helpful, knew exactly what to do with the colour code, and knew exactly what MinWax to get.
- We were going to buy primer, but he suggested we get the paint with the built-in primer

Here is what we got:
  • one quart of CIL smart(3) Ultra Matte "One Coat Ultra Premium Interiour" paint
  • one quart MinWax Ultra Fast-Drying Polycrylic Protective Finish in Clear Satin

The top of the CIL paint can (the Home Depot label) says (it's a bit cut off):

Base:88100 - Flat, matte
CIL SMART3 wash & Wear
(Universal Grey) 00nn 62/00

CLRNT B C R
OZ 0 0 0
384th 50 16 10


(Sorry for the bad formatting above, I tried to clean it up, but I couldn't get it to work. Essentially it should be a table with four columns)

We were painting over a fairly bright yellow wall. Our screen is approximately 4 feet tall by 6 feet wide. (It's not 16:9 or 4:3, it matches a feature of our house instead).

We did a single coat of the paint first, by roller, as a base/primer coat to cover the yellow. We let that dry overnight.

We then mixed 3 parts paint to 1 part PolyCrylic and rolled on a coat of the mixture following Tiddler's video instructions.

We did not have enough paint to do a second coat of the mixture. I think we should have either got a separate primer or a larger container of paint if we wanted to do two coats of the the mixture. I'm not sure yet if one coat was enough - the paint is still drying.

Here is a photo of our completed screen:



And here is one of the stir stick with our new screen paint held up against our old Digital Goo screen. As you can see, the colours are nearly identical. The Goo has more light reflectivity to it though.



Thanks again for this excellent community.
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post #35 of 154 Old 01-04-2010, 05:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the great report beegee115!

With regard to paint quantities, I would like to point out that a gallon of paint is about the same price as two quarts. Therefore anyone buying paint, who feels that a quart is probably not going to be enough, should opt for a gallon.

It is always best to apply two coats to ensure you have complete coverage.

beegee115, when you say the GOO has more light reflectivity, do you mean that it appears to have a higher level of gloss?

If you do end up getting more paint, and you think the GOO had a higher gloss level, you could try making some small samples of a higher polycrylic mixture to match the gloss level. For example 5 parts paint to 2 parts polycrylic, and 2 parts paint to 1 part polycrylic. I would not go any higher than that though. If you go too high in gloss then you will get hot spotting.

Be sure to do a contrast & brightness calibration after the paint has cured for a week. To perform this simple calibration look for the THX Optimizer utility on one of your DVDs (Finding Nemo, Cars, Terminator II).

I hope you will post a few screenshots to demonstrate the image.

Thanks again for a great writeup of your experiences.
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post #36 of 154 Old 01-06-2010, 11:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Apparently there are still some Home Depot stores that have not converted to the new 384ths ounce tint mixing systems. Therefore I have included the legacy three number tint formulas at the end of Post #2 of this thread.

In the old three number system the first number is ounces, the second is 48ths oz, and the third number is 96th oz. Some people also refer to this as ounces, drops, and half drops.
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post #37 of 154 Old 01-06-2010, 05:38 PM
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Hi there,

First of all I have to admit I am a TOTAL newb, I don't even have a projector yet, but I will shortly. Being on a tight budget I decided that I would paint a screen as cheap way to start off with projecting.
After reading more posts on more forums than I care to admit, I have learned that a painted screen really can do a good job if done correctly. So here I am and I am starting to think I am understanding most of the basic concepts.
This particular thread is probably the way I will do it. I do have a question about the different Behr paints, I originally was going to use the UPW1050 as a base for tinting but most of the discussion about adding the poly is directly referencing the 1750, are the ratios the same? Or is the 1750 the preferred base for the poly?
I know that every setup is unique and viewing is subjective but I did want to know if anyone could advise me if I am on the right track. So here is my plan, Optoma HD20 projector in a smallish basement room with no windows. My maximum throw distance is 9' 3" I realize my screen size is limited at that distance (about 80" diagonal) but that is all I have. At that distance I am concerned about the picture washing out so I am leaning towards an N8 tint + poly. I can have the room completely light controlled however I like to have some ambient light.
I think I have come along way from first wanting a plain white painted screen then wanting a plain Behr silverscreen finish screen. But being a first timer I just need some reassurance that I am headed in the right directions.

Thanks!
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post #38 of 154 Old 01-07-2010, 06:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi BigSwifty, and welcome to the DIY Screens forum.

Given the HD20's 500 lumens in cinema mode using the low lamp setting and your maximum screen size of 85" (16x9), the N8 should be fine. In your case I would not use the paint poly mix. I would simply use the behr ULTRA Exterior Flat #4850 tinted N8. You will not need the extra sheen from the satin poly and in fact I think given the small size of your pixels you will be better off without it.

Given how close you will be to the screen, my biggest concern would be that you get a very smooth finish. Unless the wall is close to glass smooth, I recommend painting a piece of white hardboard. Use the two roller method demonstrated in this video:





Behr Paints & Polycrylic Mix Ratios


I will now respond to your question regarding polycrylic mix ratios with Behr paints, but as I said above, BigSwift, in your special case, I recommend the Behr 4850 tinted N8 without any polycrylic added.

The Behr Interior UPW "Flat" #1050 is a truly flat finish paint. By that I mean it has no surface sheen at all. In the case where a truly flat paint is used in the paint + satin polycrylic mix the conservative recommendation is 3 parts paint to 1 part satin polycrylic.

The Behr ULTRA UPW Exterior Flat #4850, and the Behr Interior "Flat Enamel" #1850 both have a low luster sheen. It is somewhere between a flat and an eggshell finish. In this case less satin polycrylic is recommended to achieve a higher sheen without hot spotting. Therefore the conservative recommendation is 4 parts paint to 1 part satin polycrylic.

Behr introduced the ULTRA Interior Flat #1750 after I stopped doing anymore experimenting so I have no idea if it is a truly flat finish or more like the flat enamel. Someone has reported they used it in a 3:1 mix ratio and had no hot spotting. So you would probably get away with the 3:1 but a 4:1 ratio would definitely not hot spot.

The spirit of the "Beginner's Delight" method was simplicity with excellent results. Therefore I made conservative recommendations for the paint + satin polycrylic mix ratios. If one wanted to dial in the the screen to perfectly match the setup and user's desires then some experimentation would be required. This sort of approach was introduced in bud16415's thread A Simple Screen Paint Solution. Basically you try various shades of gray until you are satisfied with the black levels and want boost the whites. Then you try various mixtures of paint + satin polycrylic until you get the highest gain boost without hot spotting. If you were to do this with the paint + satin polycrylic you would more than likely find that a higher concentration of satin polycrylic could be used without hot spotting.

That is probably more than you wanted to know, but it does explain the thinking behind 3:1 if the paint is truly flat and 4:1 if the paint has a matte or low luster sheen to begin with.
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post #39 of 154 Old 01-07-2010, 07:15 AM
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Thanks for the reply, I have read buds thread and several others and have learned a lot. It seems that with updates and new experiments the older info adds a bit of confusion to me, but for the most part I get it.

At this point it looks like I am to the "try it and see how it looks"stage. I will be starting my first screen this weekend, while my projector is being shipped.

I really appreciate all of the efforts and shared info that you and others have put into thes DIY painting threads.

I have high hopes for my first try. Thanks Again
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post #40 of 154 Old 01-07-2010, 07:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigSwifty View Post

Thanks for the reply, I have read buds thread and several others and have learned a lot. It seems that with updates and new experiments the older info adds a bit of confusion to me, but for the most part I get it.

At this point it looks like I am to the "try it and see how it looks"stage. I will be starting my first screen this weekend, while my projector is being shipped.

I really appreciate all of the efforts and shared info that you and others have put into thes DIY painting threads.

I have high hopes for my first try. Thanks Again

Please read post 38 again. I made some specific recommendations for your situation.
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post #41 of 154 Old 01-07-2010, 03:34 PM
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Hi,
I got my 1st PJ (Epson 8100) a month ago. It's quite a bright projector, but my room has ambient light issue so I do need that extra lumen. Beside, I love bright image.
I'm in the process of converting my game-room into a dual-use HT. Apart from re-painting the room with darker color, I'm also making my 1st screen. My brother has the Wilson Art DW laminate screen. Look great, but get penalized severely with ambient. After a month of reading, I decided to go with the neutral gray. I want to mix with the poly at the 4:1 ratio to get the brightness back (again, I love bright image). So this is what I get:

- 1 qt of Behr 4850 tinted N8.5
- 4:1 Minwax clear satin polycrylic
- 5x10ft 1/2 thick ultra-board (https://www.pitman.com/storefrontCom...40&itm_index=0).

As you can read from the description on the website, this foam board has a plastic face and is designed for painting/printing. Surface is extremely smooth. One side is white, the other is black. I decided to go with this board because I can use both sides: the white as is and I can paint the black side with whatever paint I can come up with. Since the board is thick and strong, I just make a fix frame on the wall, then flip the screen (I just like having flexibility)

Being the first screen, I no doubt have fear with my choice of paint and material. So please advise:
- With my PJ, will the poly (at 4:1 ratio) and N8.5 do any harm to the PQ?
- The board manufacture suggests no prime is needed, should I prime this board before I paint? It's is natively black.
- I can either spray or roll. Which method is better? I can do either way, but spraying requires some covers, so I prefer rolling.

It's a new territory for me, so any help/advise from you is greatly appreciated. My board will be in next week. I'll painting the wall this weekend.

BTW, tiddler: thanks for the great post and video. I read most of your posts dated back in 2007. Thanks for pulling them together into one great thread for newb.
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post #42 of 154 Old 01-07-2010, 04:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi lanced,

The Behr 4850 (or 1750 if you prefer the interior version) is self priming. Your choice of the N8.5 shade sounds reasonable for your room and preferences.

On a new smooth surface you will find two coats of the paint + poly mix will level out to a very smooth finish. I'm not sure you would get a much smoother finish by spray painting. If you are more comfortable with spray painting then it might be worth the effort of covering things up. Go with your strengths and intuition, not the easy way out. The smoother the finish the better.

You have chosen a very good projector with lots of lumens so you should be pleased with the results. If you want ambient light be sure to use directed lighting to keep it off the screen. Deep pot lights directly over the seating with a dimmer would be ideal.

Good luck and please post some photos of your work.
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post #43 of 154 Old 01-13-2010, 09:14 AM
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Well I got my screen made over the weekend it turned out great, I followed Tiddlers recommendations and 2 roller painting video.

Here are a couple pictures, one of the screen with my kid in front of it and one of a screen shot from a video game.

My camera does some weird image distortion and I am not a great photographer but in person it looks great. I really don't think I could be happier with how it turned out.
LL
LL
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post #44 of 154 Old 01-16-2010, 01:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigSwifty View Post

Well I got my screen made over the weekend it turned out great, I followed Tiddlers recommendations and 2 roller painting video.

Here are a couple pictures, one of the screen with my kid in front of it and one of a screen shot from a video game.

My camera does some weird image distortion and I am not a great photographer but in person it looks great. I really don't think I could be happier with how it turned out.

Thanks for the feedback and photographs BigSwifty!



That image looks great!

Now the hard decisions will be, this movie, that game, no I want to watch this movie, . . .
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post #45 of 154 Old 01-25-2010, 09:19 PM - Thread Starter
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I have wondered about my choice of the name "Beginner's Delight".

What does the name imply to you?
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post #46 of 154 Old 01-25-2010, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiddler View Post

I have wondered about my choice of the name "Beginner's Delight".

What does the name imply to you?

I'd venture it to mean a painted Screen application a DIY Screen making Beginner could consider doing with confidence, and be delighted with the end results.

Yes?

Nothing at all wrong with that. "Beginners" have to by nature begin somewhere, and if they find a high degree of satisfaction right at the start, that doesn't imply that their standards are low as much as it shows that the results were good enough to be considered more than just adequate.

A great starting point for a budding HT advocate....or a perfectly acceptable stopping point for those who never expected something as good to come along for so little expense and effort.

Either way....it's all good, this DIY Screen making stuff.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #47 of 154 Old 01-25-2010, 10:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

I'd venture it to mean a painted Screen application a DIY Screen making Beginner could consider doing with confidence, and be delighted with the end results.

Yes?

Yes!

I do get the feeling that some people take it to mean easy enough for a beginner with adequate results. In my opinion the results I have observed are more than adequate. There might be some more complex solutions that are better under some circumstances but we are not talking about huge differences. For most people with one of the current crop of bright 1080p projectors a neutral gray + Minwax Satin Polycrylic screen will produce an outstanding image with a deep vibrant image. Any extra effort would be best spent making sure the substrate is smooth and applying the paint to get a smooth uniform image.
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post #48 of 154 Old 01-26-2010, 04:46 AM
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What's in a name? That which we call a rose
By any other name would smell as sweet;

Billy Shakespeare

I have never thought of coming up with names until the other day when one of the newcomers suggested a better name than Gray Paint for gray paint, would make searching for gray paint easier.

Nothing that suggests simplicity or easy or beginners is good, because 99.9% of things in the world have to be complex in order to be any good. In fact most really good things should be out of the realm of understanding of average people before they really become extra good. I hardly understand how anything I use works anymore.

So in light of that the name shouldn't really describe the screen paint or its ability to be produced or applied.

I notice a lot of names contain a color word, black and silver are good catchy ones to work into the name. Even though they are describing a gray paint. and you need an additional catchy word to go along with it people relate to.

We should start a name that paint thread maybe. Some of my ideas are.

Silver Fission
Black Plasma
Photon Silver
Black Hole
Silver Viper
Electron G_R_A_Y
MinwaxMudd

Just a few ideas we will see what others come up with.


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post #49 of 154 Old 01-26-2010, 06:00 AM
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How about " No Nonsense Newbie Nirvana N8 " , or in my case N7, or any other N since they are all possible.

Jason
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post #50 of 154 Old 01-26-2010, 07:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bud16415 View Post


Nothing that suggests simplicity or easy or beginners is good, because 99.9% of things in the world have to be complex in order to be any good. In fact most really good things should be out of the realm of understanding of average people before they really become extra good. I hardly understand how anything I use works anymore.

Ok Bud, now your stretching the limits of your credibility.........

Quote:


So in light of that the name shouldn’t really describe the screen paint or its ability to be produced or applied.

Now that's just nonsense Dude......... It's all in a name, not in a disguise.
Is this another "tongue in cheek" posting? If so, better "bite it"......Bud.

Quote:


I notice a lot of names contain a color word, black and silver are good catchy ones to work into the name. Even though they are describing a gray paint. and you need an additional catchy word to go along with it people relate to.

We should start a name that paint thread maybe. Some of my ideas are.

Silver Fission ........ (....too close to another nuclear application)
Black Plasma ........ (Plasma? We don't need no stinkin' Plasma!)
Photon Silver ........ ( Their Shields are coming down, Capn'! Full Spread?)
Black Hole ........ (....where not even light can escape. Not good.)
Silver Viper ........ (...ENOUGH with the Varmints, or I'll call in an Exterminator)
Electron G_R_A_Y ........ (.....A_R_E Y_O_U M_O_C_K_I_N_G M_E ?)
MinwaxMudd ........ (....no comment....)

Quote:


Just a few ideas we will see what others come up with.

Gamma Ray Gray........ (...a Killer app. to die for)
Gray Lady........ (...she's going down )
Dark Nite........ (...why so serious?)
Gay Gray........ (...go tell it to GLAAD)
Obsidian Star........ (...conflict of interest)
Cosmic Egg ........ (...ready to expand your Universe)
Silver Beacon ........ (...what's to gain with such a name?)
N-URFACE-Gray........ (...get up close and personal)
SimpleEnuff4U........ (...sez it all, doesn't it?)
Invisi-Screen ........ (...I said it first!)
Silver Shadow ........ (...now that's pretty cool )

...and my favorite;
Smoke & Mirrors

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #51 of 154 Old 01-26-2010, 07:43 AM
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Of the above I like Gay Gray, I think there is an untapped DIY population out there. I like Smoke n Mirrors also, as that name best describes most of the DIY paint solutions.


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post #52 of 154 Old 01-26-2010, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bud16415 View Post

I like Smoke n Mirrors also, as that name best describes most of the DIY paint solutions.

That was a "gimmie" just for you, Bud.
I thought you'd like it.

How about "Depression Gray"..."Gray Fog"..."Squintin' Gray"....."Myopia Gray"

......or perhaps; " NARGE Gray" (Not A Really Good Enough..)

Really though...all joking aside, naming a application is serious stuff, and it should in fact tell a story in and of itself.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #53 of 154 Old 01-30-2010, 04:50 PM - Thread Starter
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I was just wondering if anyone has tried painting a white screen using a white paint + satin polycrylic mix?

I know that Behr ULTRA Exterior Flat is an extremely white paint with a low luster sheen. I would guess it is more than a gain of 1. I would think that adding the satin polycrylic would push the on axis gain up a few more points for an ultra bright white screen.
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post #54 of 154 Old 01-30-2010, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by tiddler View Post

I was just wondering if anyone has tried painting a white screen using a white paint + satin polycrylic mix?

I know that Behr ULTRA Exterior Flat is an extremely white paint with a low luster sheen. I would guess it is more than a gain of 1. I would think that adding the satin polycrylic would push the on axis gain up a few more points for an ultra bright white screen.


To add to MM's naming... this one would have to be:

SWING (so white, it's not gray)
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post #55 of 154 Old 01-31-2010, 04:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jbelljbell View Post

To add to MM's naming... this one would have to be:

SWING (so white, it's not gray)

That's funny!

I have seen a lot of folks post that they have used Behr UPW Flat #1050 or Kilz 2 which is also a flat near white, but unless your surface is rough a flat paint is not really ideal. First of all flat paint is not as durable as a flat enamel or exterior flat. Secondly a flat enamel or exterior flat will give you higher on axis gain. Adding some Minwax Satin Polycrylic will boost the gain but in a white the very slight yellow coloring of the polycrylic might be noticeable where it is not noticeable in a gray.

So I really am wondering two things. Has anyone tried a matte white paint? Has anyone tried a white paint + satin polycrylic? And of course we would all be interested in your observations, good or bad.
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post #56 of 154 Old 02-03-2010, 08:23 AM
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Back to the name for this paint, I like it.

The name is what got me interested in it in the first place. I am a beginner and needed to make a screen. Not knowing what I needed, all the other names of paints did not really give me any indication of what it is or why I should try it. This one sounded like a great place to start for my first screen and as it stands right now after watching 200 hours on it, probably my only one.

Everyone of my friends and family that have seen it can not believe the picture quality of my projector (Optoma HD20) and they are even more amazed that I made the screen myself.

So as far as the name, I am a beginner and I am delighted. The only downside to the name is that it does leave the impression that there is ample room for improvement. If there is I really can't imagine what the improvement would be.

OK, I guess I will contradict myself now after typing for a while and more thinking. How about DIY Delight, keeps the simpleness of DIY apparent and the delight for the result. Some of the other screen paint names sound difficult for the DIYer just from the name.

Either way I am happy I found this thread, I am extremely happy with the results I got with Begginers Delight.

Thanks again!
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post #57 of 154 Old 02-03-2010, 09:42 AM
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B.4.D.R.U.G.S

Basically 4 Dependable Results Under Gazing Situations.

.....getting personal;

4 B.A.B.I.E.S.

Basically Anemic Beginners Initial Economical Screen

......and some somewhat controversial fare;

BADAABOOM
Bland And Dull Attempt At Opening One's Mind

I.G.O.R

I'm Getting Officially Reamed

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #58 of 154 Old 02-03-2010, 10:55 AM - Thread Starter
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BADAABOOM
Bland And Dull Attempt At Opening One's Mind

Let's see now . . . someone who is bland, dull, and would never contribute anything to a discussion that might open one's mind, would make the perfect addition to a dinner party if you did not want them to interfere with the desired topic of conversation.

Just like a matte neutral gray or neutral gray + satin polycrylic DIY screen is completely passive and does not intrude or interfere with the projected image.

It's hard to give an exciting name to something that is best appreciated for doing nothing. No color shift, no shimmering, no graininess, no fancy measuring and mixing, no roller streaks, in fact completely forgettable. Like an open window on a fresh spring morning.
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post #59 of 154 Old 02-03-2010, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by BigSwifty View Post

Everyone of my friends and family that have seen it can not believe the picture quality of my projector (Optoma HD20) and they are even more amazed that I made the screen myself.

Something just occurred to me and why S_I_M_P_L_E neutral gray and poly is such a hard item to name and or offer for consumption by the masses. The sales force never stick around after the BigSwifty like post is made.

By the way welcome to the forum BigSwifty and thank you for making your unbiased post. That 200 hours will be 2000 before you know it and I'm willing to bet you and your guests will still be amazed at that time.

I made a post a very long time ago that there are a lot of people that want to come here learn some things make a screen and enjoy. And Best is in the eyes of the beholder. I seriously think that you could spend a couple years tinkering with screens and end up going back to this screen for the visual simplicity it provides. Todd is right you are not watching the screen you are watching the image and the illusion. That's as good as it gets.

Just as sure as I am that 99% of the people making a BigSwifity formally Biglyle post tend to vanish shortly into movie viewing, I'm equally as sure every time such a post is made it will be followed by a mo-bedder shouda couda wooda disparaging post.

Enjoy your screen and projector and theater and whatever you do don't let on that it was simple to do.


Bud

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post #60 of 154 Old 02-03-2010, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiddler View Post


It's hard to give an exciting name to something that is best appreciated for doing nothing. No color shift, no shimmering, no graininess, no fancy measuring and mixing, no roller streaks, in fact completely forgettable. Like an open window on a fresh spring morning.

..........but then your likely to get infected with a bug.....yes?

Many applications have shared the 'open window' effect, including both white and gray, metallic and non- metallic varieties. It's nothing new to painting screens (MMud-MMud-SE had it in spades)...or exceptionally necessary really unless your up very close, just a end result to using a decent paint and good technique. Desirable yes....but not a Deal maker, or in absence thereof...a Deal breaker.

Nor does such hold exclusivity in being color neutral. It can do, and only does 'so much", and for some that's fine. But for those who want and need more, it's not going to suffice.

Without a doubt, if a Noob was given the opportunity to choose "in person" between two completed Screens of identical shades, one advanced and one simple, be it in the dark or in the light, the decision is gonna favor the advanced application 95% of the time.

But that is hardly ever the case, even with such advice given, to have the majority of Noobs spend time to try, or even want to go to such trouble, and so the application herein is at least something better than white paint.....but not hardly to be construed as being "the best" possible choice should reasons and circumstances dictate the real and valid necessity of needing a Gray screen.

Unless one comes up with continual ideas to keep such an application in front of seeking members, the resulting lack of interest isn't really an offshoot of it not being a good choice or effective application, but more that it just lacks the extra oomph that many desire and need.

We all know that, as do you. It all seems a bit silly to be hyping this thread and this application by continual jesting and such.....it's simply just an exercise in having fun with names...not being really serious about achieving extra levels of performance if one doesn't need to be..

That seems to describe it well.

N.A.T.S.O.B.O.K.

Not A Truly Serious Offering But O.K.


The same can be said of using UPW/Poly. Done right, it should outperform using a White alone. But not enough to make one need to change his pants. Butt....add some White Pearl Finish to the equation and you just might have to excuse yourself...... .

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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