Swing up fixed frame screen (altenative to pull down) - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 43 Old 02-16-2011, 06:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Nick, sorry I haven't returned to this thread to read your posts. You too AB.

The system that AB uses is quite nice and much more like a tinker toy set in that it goes together quite readily. Its modular and much more sleek. The catch is that its more expensive. Not trying to turn you away from that or put that system down. That's what I would have done if I wasn't a cheap a**.

The system I used is nothing more than outdoor screen room 2x2 splined aluminum. With mine you have to use a cloth material, where in AB's system you can use a cloth or rigid material. I.E. if you want to use Sintra or Gatorfoam.

When I was talking about being care while splining I was referring to attaching the splining material itself. You need to pull the fabric really tight and when doing that it doesn't have much give when rolling the spline in the channel so you have to push the splining tool pretty hard. When doing that it's much easier to roll off the spline and right onto the material and possibly tear or create grooves like I did.

Going slow and with care prevents that and in turn you have a screen that is very taught.

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post #32 of 43 Old 02-17-2011, 06:52 PM
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But how much dd you pay for your screens respectively? If you prefer you could PM me.

I'm trying for cheap here folks!
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post #33 of 43 Old 02-18-2011, 09:42 AM - Thread Starter
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I don't mind posting right here. These are off the top of my head.

Frame $50 (found locally)
Frame hardware $5
Spline $5?
BOC $35
Hardware to hang and swing the screen $15

The frame could be the hardest part to find, but I can give you some suggestions on where to look for that stuff locally. The rest is all regular old big box items.

Now if you are going to paint the BOC, that would be a separate cost all together and I can't pin that one down for you. Too much of a variable.

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post #34 of 43 Old 02-18-2011, 01:50 PM
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All told, mine was more expensive, but that is because there was no plan and it evolved over time. I bought the sintra to use "as is" and lean against the fireplace mantle for "movie night" and storage other times behind the couch. It turned out to not be rigid enough for that so a frame was needed. I had the sintra and it looked good and didn't want a different screen surface. I found the 80/20 on here and gave it a shot.

I started with just a box frame for the sintra and still stored it behind the couch when not in use. That was good for a while until I found this thread (huge thanks to Highside) and got approval to hang it. BTW, I don't think I could ever do the BOC splining that Highside did. I know my limits.

I had to get the hinges, deadbolt latches, frame extensions, three way connectors and reinforcing aluminum pieces. I reinforced the bottom and top corners to prevent gravity from pulling the frame apart when down, and sides where ceiling extensions connect to the frame to prevent sagging when up.

While I was gathering the parts for the final design (and measuring and sketching for the 100th time) I decided to paint the sintra with one of the DIY mixes on here once I learned that my image quality could be mo' better ( to MM). That meant buying the Wagner sprayer and paint mixes. I also painted the frame materials white to blend in with the ceiling.

This all happened over time so the cost didn't seem to be adding up. Some of the costs are based on memory:

$60 sintra (cut to size and bought locally)
$100 80/20 frame (top, bottom, sides, corner connectors, gasket material, inside corner beveling and delivery)
$25 hinges
$40 deadbolt latches
$20 frame extensions and connectors
$30 white paint for frame and corner/T/vertical reinforcement
$55 Wagner sprayer (on sale)
$40 paint mix
$3 black cloth hockey tape from sporting goods store (border material)

$373 total.

Of course, if planned in advance costs could be reduced. If you didn't want to paint, you could save $95 (sprayer+paint). If you want to paint you could use a cheaper substrate (TWH for $12) and save $48. Use TWH and if you have a sprayer save $100. Another alternative is to get stock aluminum tubing frame pieces without flanges from the online store and cut it to size yourself. Assemble the frame and screw the screen material to the frame. May save another $30-$40.

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post #35 of 43 Old 02-18-2011, 02:47 PM
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I still don't know what I'm going to do, but if I decide to go this route I'm going to resurrect this thread again !

It looks like you both have great value for your screens, which is what I want to end up with - I'm trying to decide between this type of setup and a tensioned pull-down type.

This looks considerably more economical. Any idea where to find gatorboard or sintra- what type of supplier carries them? HD/Lowes here do not. Lumberyards?
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post #36 of 43 Old 02-21-2011, 06:24 AM
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Sign companies use both materials and may sell you a single sheet but may cost more. I bought mine from a supplier (Laird Plastics) who cut it to size and made sure it was squared. I even picked the sheet from their storeroom to make sure there were no marks or blemishes. There may be other suppliers in your area. Mississippi Man had another source he recommend in a different thread but I don't remember the name. There is a Laird Plastics in Bloomfield, CT.

Link:

http://hartford.lairdplastics.com/in...temid=67&MCU=3

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post #37 of 43 Old 02-21-2011, 07:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adult Beverage View Post

Sign companies use both materials and may sell you a single sheet but may cost more. I bought mine from a supplier (Laird Plastics) who cut it to size and made sure it was squared. I even picked the sheet from their storeroom to make sure there were no marks or blemishes. There may be other suppliers in your area. Mississippi Man had another source he recommend in a different thread but I don't remember the name. There is a Laird Plastics in Bloomfield, CT.

I had a similar good experience with Laird Plastics in Austin, Texas. They were clearly not accustomed to dealing with other-than-commercial buyers but bent-over backwards to help me (including trimming for free). Easiest 10ft movie screen I could have hoped for (except for getting it safely home!).
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post #38 of 43 Old 11-05-2011, 06:22 PM
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just bumping this up again (wow 2 years old now?) as i plan to do something very similar over the next month or so. thanks to everyone posting in here so far!
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post #39 of 43 Old 11-08-2011, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rukus29 View Post

just bumping this up again (wow 2 years old now?) as i plan to do something very similar over the next month or so. thanks to everyone posting in here so far!

Let us stay up to date with your effort...and if you have a question or uncertainty....ask for help / advice first, not afterward!

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post #40 of 43 Old 12-29-2011, 02:06 PM
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I'm leaning towards a similar project - Thanks for the thread, Highside! I'm going to peruse through all of the pictures here, links, etc. and try to figure out exactly how I'm going to proceed.

Brett

I'd give my right arm to be ambidextrous.
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post #41 of 43 Old 12-30-2011, 02:03 PM
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OK, so I am thinking of using adjustable tensioned hinges so that the hinges will raise the screen up to the "parked" position, and I'll pull it down and use a couple of latches to use the screen with the projector. I figure that with adjustable hinges, I'll be able to fine-tune the torque so that when unlatched, the screen goes up with exactly the right amount of force needed to put it into that "parked" position without slamming into the ceiling.

I'm looking at these hinges:
http://www.hooverfence.com/ddhardware/tca.htm

Brett

I'd give my right arm to be ambidextrous.
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post #42 of 43 Old 01-02-2012, 08:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrettStah View Post

OK, so I am thinking of using adjustable tensioned hinges so that the hinges will raise the screen up to the "parked" position.......

Nice find. If you go that route, let us know how it works. If it indeed does work, I will switch over to those hinges and get rid of the window latch that I'm currently using.

I'm a little skeptical though. I don't see how these will work against gravity. Even though my screen is very light, 60" away and all that sprung weight may not work. If it does though, I'm all over it.

ÂThe sheriff and his buddies with their samurai swords.....Â
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post #43 of 43 Old 01-03-2012, 03:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Highside View Post


Nice find. If you go that route, let us know how it works. If it indeed does work, I will switch over to those hinges and get rid of the window latch that I'm currently using.

I'm a little skeptical though. I don't see how these will work against gravity. Even though my screen is very light, 60" away and all that sprung weight may not work. If it does though, I'm all over it.

Yep, I have no clue if it'll actually work, but the hinges aren't too expensive, so I'm probably going to give it a shot. Maybe the hinges plus a latch of some sort when it's in the "up" position will work... The hinges to get the screen mostly up, then I can push it up the last little bit manually. It's still all in the early planning stages, obviously!

Brett

I'd give my right arm to be ambidextrous.
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