Originally Posted by TimB
Anyway, curious how you fastened the DW to the built-up 1x4 frame? Appears you don't have any intermediate supports/stiffeners, and wonder if there is any waviness at all as a result?
On my first peice I did notice some minimal waviness. Just finished replacing my first sheet that got cracked with the new sheet a few hours ago with a little different methods with a far better outcome. First off I pre-drilled holes and hand screwed in my screws this time. I think this is a must if using screws, this laminate is very brittle.
My outer frame is 1X4 and an inner frame of 1X3 Poplar board. Which created a 1 inch inlay border on the back side.
I first laid out the laminate on the frame and made sure my horizontal cut was good. I cut it so that there would be about a 1/4 gap from the edge of the 1X4 frame on the bottom end. I used 3/4 Pan head screws spaced at around 12-14 inchs apart from corner to corner across the top. Pre-drilling is the key to no minor cracks. I admit my first go around my drill put a few a litltle too deep and a noticed some hairline fractures. pre-drill and hand-screwing is the key to avoud this.
After top had all screws in I had my wife hold the frame upright so the laminate hung freely. This allowed the laminate to hang stright and flat pretty much eliminating the 1/4 gap that was previoulsy there when laying on the ground. (Caused from the laminate bellowing in the middle against the carpent.
Now that my wife is holding it upright I begin to do the same with the bottom but kind of applying some downward pressure with my thumb in a latex glove (supplied a little more grip). Did the whole bottom just like the top and the sheet fit perfectly within the 122 X 62 frame (1X3's). I did keep checking as I went for any visible waves but seemed pretty simple to keep flush with the wood.
Now I put a few on the sides making sure no waves/bubbles there and was done. If I was to do it any different I think I would use 3/4" velcro around the edge of the 1X3's and edge of screen followed by the above pre-drill / hand-screw method. But I am verry happy with my end product and the screen is very flat and "tight" from left to right.
Also I guess If I did notice some waves I coulda used some of my excess 1X3 or 1X4 poplar boards to make a few 63" lengths and after each screw apply a board behind it for backing but I dont think I needed it. The laminate is brittle yet is very solid at the same time. I also had a thought go through my head of using a 122" X 53" peice of ply-wood and glue the screen to it and then lay it in the frame.
Goodluck hope my insight helped.
Originally Posted by NasDamus
Looks great man! What type of lumber did you use for the border? Also, was it pretty easy to wrap the velvet after the frame was put together or if you were doing it again would you wrap it first.
I used 1x3 Poplar boards for the inner frame and actually to think of it I remember that I couldnt find 1X4 poplars at my Home Depot so I settled for RedWood 1X4's for the outer frame.
Yea it was real easy to attatch the velvet after the frame was put together. I wanted my 45 degree corner folds to look proffesional-like and I had my wife make sure the front was flat as could be as I shot in staples like a madman. Used so many staples to get the tight look. Think I only had about 1/8-1/2 inch between each staple. . Did the sides, then the top, then I flipped the frame to do the bottom (new top). Corners like I said were perfect and because frame was already put together in order to achieve this (perfect corner) all I had to do was fold under velvet excess and pull tight and staple.
Also hope some of this insight helps someone out there and good luck.