Dutch Boy Dimensions Metallic Paints? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 6 Old 04-08-2010, 08:43 AM - Thread Starter
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I was in a Menards the other week (like a Home Depot) and wandered into their paint section. I ran across some paint chips from their Dutch Boy brand Dimensions Metallics line, and I must say that there are 2 combos that really sparked my interest (one is a white and the other a platinum). I'm wondering if anyone has tried/used any of this paint line for a screen?

I placed the paint chip card against my screen and the colors and whites really jump off. Blacks seem better with the platinum than the white. However it was very hard to tell anything due to the fact that all I have is a 1.5" square of each one. Also, my PJ has over 2K hours on the bulb, so I have no idea about what kind of hot spotting might occur when using a bulb that is far from its deathbed.

If anyone has any experience with these paints please let me know. Otherwise, I might have to mess around with it in the near future. Thanks!

-Sean
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post #2 of 6 Old 04-08-2010, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 230-SEAN View Post

I was in a Menards the other week (like a Home Depot) and wandered into their paint section. I ran across some paint chips from their Dutch Boy brand Dimensions Metallics line, and I must say that there are 2 combos that really sparked my interest (one is a white and the other a platinum). I'm wondering if anyone has tried/used any of this paint line for a screen?

I placed the paint chip card against my screen and the colors and whites really jump off. Blacks seem better with the platinum than the white. However it was very hard to tell anything due to the fact that all I have is a 1.5" square of each one. Also, my PJ has over 2K hours on the bulb, so I have no idea about what kind of hot spotting might occur when using a bulb that is far from its deathbed.

If anyone has any experience with these paints please let me know. Otherwise, I might have to mess around with it in the near future. Thanks!

-Sean

Sean,

Those specific Dutch Boy metallic paints are coming from the .O.E.M. source that we (Pete & I) have been using for some time in pre-made "Bulk" Black Flame-Silver Fire mixes.

The ones that we found useful were the Silver Lining (DB1301) and Pearl Luster (DB1201) . Together they serve the same purpose as the Delta brand Silver & Pearl paints recommended in the Silver Fire formula posted within the SF Thread. The Platinum is way "over the Top" too "glittery" to use even within a Mix. The Chip Cards of course show up well, but across a surface you'd have absolutely horrendous Hot Spotting and Screen Glare.

We do not suggest them on here primarily because they only are available in the 1 Gallon size and those "gallons" cost over $30.00+ ea. Suggesting their use makes no sense for the common DIY'ers needs because they wold never use at most 1 quart of the Pearl and only 24 oz of the Silver in any given mix.

If it means anything to you, we carefully selected those paints to assure that large, bulk mixes come out to our specifications. That means they are of course more than acceptable for use as components within a reflective Base mix. However, if used alone, all are far too reflective of and by themselves.

If you apply yourself toward using the less expensive components utilized in the Silver Fire / RS-MaxxMudd mixes, you'll come out a LOT less cash-poor, and you won't have to deal with ladling / measuring out 1/4 Gallon amounts to make a Screen mix.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #3 of 6 Old 04-08-2010, 10:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Very interesting, thanks for the reply!

The two combos I mentioned before on the chip card are as follows:

"White"
Basecoat: DC432 Artist's White
Topcoat: ME15 Pearl Luster

"Platinum"
Basecoat: DC485 Platinum Band
Topcoat: ME08 Silver Lining

Directions on card are basically lay the basecoat down, wait at least 24 hours, then lay the topcoat on, then you're done.

So the "metallic" features of these paints appear to be the two that you have mentioned, but have different product #s, maybe this card is old.

Also, as you can see the platinum I was talking about is a base color rather than a metallic additive. Was this the same platinum you were talking about in your post, or is there a different one that you have used?

Another question, when you say "mixes" do you literally mean that what I stated as a base and top coat are mixed together and applied as one? Or do you mean as I mentioned above, basecoat-let-dry-topcoat? Thanks!

-Sean
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post #4 of 6 Old 04-08-2010, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 230-SEAN View Post

Very interesting, thanks for the reply!

The two combos I mentioned before on the chip card are as follows:

"White"
Basecoat: DC432 Artist's White
Topcoat: ME15 Pearl Luster

"Platinum"
Basecoat: DC485 Platinum Band
Topcoat: ME08 Silver Lining

The basecoats are not metallic, and the Chip Code #s are simply a Reference number.

The "Artist's White" is consider an appropriate shade that will not bleed through or discolor the Pearl. Likewise the Platinum. Both are simply color tinted Mixes.

Quote:


Directions on card are basically lay the basecoat down, wait at least 24 hours, then lay the topcoat on, then you're done.

One would have to be very fortunate...and skillful...and more than a bit lucky to apply such paints unadulterated, and in one coat, and have a uniform surface. But really, it doesn't matter in in this case, as neither is applicable as a screen surface in their pure form. They are "Decor Oriented" finishes and possess far too much sheen to work as a reflective screen surface.

Quote:


So the "metallic" features of these paints appear to be the two that you have mentioned, but have different product #s, maybe this card is old.

I'd venture to say that the product numbers for the Dutch Boy metallics you listed is proprietary as to being a Menards #....not a Dutch Boy #, because the numbers I gave you come directly off the DB 1 Gallon Tubs. You find that number directly at center on the label, and below the Product "Name" (ie: Silver Lining)

Quote:


Also, as you can see the platinum I was talking about is a base color rather than a metallic additive. Was this the same platinum you were talking about in your post, or is there a different one that you have used?

2 years ago they had a actual Platinum White, so I though you were referring to that. It never was a consideration anyway. I see now that by your description, they determined the best way to effect the Color/effect they intended was to use a very light Gray base, and have the Customer apply a semi-translucent coating of Silver Lining that would impart the desired color & additional reflectivity.

Quote:


Another question, when you say "mixes" do you literally mean that what I stated as a base and top coat are mixed together and applied as one? Or do you mean as I mentioned above, basecoat-let-dry-topcoat? Thanks!

-Sean

Almost every DIY Screen application used by members on this Forum employs a "Base" Most often it is painted on, but for those who use materials that already have a Flat/Matte/Semi-Gloss/Gloss White finish, if they are spraying, such ?Mixes" can apply directly over such surfaces.

Rolling over those sort of surfaces is dependent upon the use of Foam Finish Rollers and a deft touch with a Roller. Since many lack that ability, often they prime such surfaces.

The "Mixes" I referred to are a combination of paints, additives and tints. Usually within a ratio of 25-30% of each REFLECTIVE paint and subsequently smaller amounts of other varied ingredients (Water-Polyurethane-Corrective Metallic tints)

But in a way you are correct....because initially, that old Girl MississippiMud was in effect a combination of a white Base and a reflective Metallic Topcoat. The current advanced mixes all contain a degree of "White" within them. None are pure metallic.

OK...now my turn.

Exactly what are you trying to / hoping to accomplish? Pretty much anything and everything you could consider has been considered and an effort made toward making such a reality.

Whatcha' wanna do?

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post #5 of 6 Old 04-08-2010, 04:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

OK...now my turn.

Exactly what are you trying to / hoping to accomplish? Pretty much anything and everything you could consider has been considered and an effort made toward making such a reality.

Whatcha' wanna do?

I wish I knew for sure, lol. I currently have the same old screen I built in 2006, which consist of sintra board, Behr Silverscreen, and a 1x6 velvet wrapped border.

About two weeks ago I took on the challenge of going diy CIH because I just hate black bars. I built a lens and sled and now the only thing missing is a screen.

IMO, the ultimate setup would be finished with an AT screen. (I have been looking at the spandex finds in the recent past) But, I have to be honest with myself and realize that my room is far too small (12'3" front to back) to give up about 2' for a false wall. Not too mention that the new setup would benefit from a curved screen, a task I feel would be easier tackled with a piece of sintra rather than fabric.

I could always just cut my current sintra screen down to a 2.35:1 AR, but where's the fun in that?!! So, I figured I would build a new screen and try a new finish, not that I am or have been disappointed with the Behr Silverscreen, I just know their are better things out there.

Since sliding the anamorphic lens in front of the PJ creates such a dramatic and "wow-factor" atmosphere, I think the screen should too.

Please know that I live in an apartment in the city of Chicago and I don't own a spray gun, nor do I have a place to spray. Therefor I feel as if my options are somewhat limited. My PJ is a Panny AE900, which I'm sure you know is only 720P, it was a badass in its day though! I still love it and have a new bulb to replace the dying one mentioned in my first post, I'm just holding off on that for a final "re-grand opening" once I build a new screen.

Any advice would be appriciated, I know you know what you're talking about, as I beleive it was one of your posts many years ago that pointed me in the direction of the Behr Silverscreen I still enjoy today.

-Sean
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post #6 of 6 Old 04-09-2010, 05:25 AM
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If your Apt has a window, you have a fan, and you want to use a metallic based paint,.....and you want a perfect surface, Brother, you CAN spray inside. I do it almost continually in all sorts of situations. The Wagner CS will put up each coat in about 1 minute so it's hardly even on long enough to matter, and what over spray it does produce (...and that's very little....) is easily contained with a bit of thin plastic Drop cloth draped about or stuck up onto the wall around the Screen.

Many just discount spraying inside out of hand because of pre-conceived notions about dust and mess...and expense. But when one uses the Wagner Control spray properly, it's not messy, nor expensive ($60.00) and it produces results that are uncommonly excelent...as well as allows the use of advanced paint solutions that are not suited to rolling.

Your call of course, but don't deny yourself the potential inherent in the advanced applications simply because you don't know the "skinny".

Get "Fat" with the knowledge that spraying is the best route to take no matter where you dwell.

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