Attaching a DIY home theatre screen to floor and ceiling only - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 16 Old 09-29-2010, 08:23 AM - Thread Starter
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I have to find a way of attaching a DIY screen to the floor and ceiling of our home theatre as it cannot be attached to the wall.

It has taken me 3 years to get rid of the damp problem we had in our semi-underground home theatre. Eventually, we paid a king's ransom to have the surface removed and a new surface plastered onto the brick walls. A special, cement-based product from Cemcrete (in South Africa) reacts with the moisture in the wall and creates waterproof crystals throughout the structure. It is a permanent solution but it does take time before the walls dry out.

The problem is, one cannot drill holes into any of the waterproofed walls, so I have to come up with a design for a sturdy, inexpensive screen framework that is bolted only to the stage floor and concrete ceiling. Any suggestions?
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post #2 of 16 Old 09-29-2010, 05:05 PM
 
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If you have a solid floor and ceiling joists, then a simple hardwood 2x4 placed in the center of where the screen goes--attached to the ceiling and the floor, away from the wall, can be used as a mounting device. If your screen is large, then two 2x4s separated halfway the width of the screen would work. Simply paint them black or cover with black velvet.
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post #3 of 16 Old 09-30-2010, 12:19 AM - Thread Starter
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I've thought of using wooden joists but they are never dead straight and it isn't as simple as it sounds to get them in place AND almost flush with the ceiling and (wood) stage platform. The thicker the joists, the more difficult it is.
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post #4 of 16 Old 09-30-2010, 07:45 AM
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2" square Aluminum Channels toed in at Top & Bottom with Brackets. Something similar to the Brackets a metal Porch Railing would use.

Lightweight, easy to Cut/Drill/work with. Rigid. Straight at the beginning and for the duration. Removable. And not all that expensive.

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post #5 of 16 Old 09-30-2010, 08:31 PM
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post #6 of 16 Old 10-01-2010, 04:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luebster View Post

How about something like this?
http://www.griplocksystems.com/displ...ns-and-Banners

Pretty cool...bookmarked that one, I did.

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post #7 of 16 Old 10-01-2010, 05:32 AM
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If you have a local Ikea, they sell a stuff that you could use.

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/search/?query=Stolmen
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post #8 of 16 Old 10-01-2010, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Pretty cool...bookmarked that one, I did.

Yeah, I thought it was a good find...I plan to build a DW screen with 1" aluminum tubing frame, then suspend it from the ceiling joists with the GripLock stuff. The screen will be flush with the front edge of a pair of 15" deep bookcases flanking either side. Should be a pretty slick look. I'll be sure to start a thread when I'm done. Maybe start a build thread, even.
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post #9 of 16 Old 10-03-2010, 03:06 PM
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My fixed screen hangs from a couple of hooks screwed into the beam in the ceiling...

So much media, so little time...

 

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post #10 of 16 Old 10-04-2010, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barryecohen View Post

My fixed screen hangs from a couple of hooks screwed into the beam in the ceiling...

The Floor got forgotten.

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post #11 of 16 Old 10-05-2010, 06:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luebster View Post

Yeah, I thought it was a good find...I plan to build a DW screen with 1" aluminum tubing frame, then suspend it from the ceiling joists with the GripLock stuff. The screen will be flush with the front edge of a pair of 15" deep bookcases flanking either side. Should be a pretty slick look. I'll be sure to start a thread when I'm done. Maybe start a build thread, even.

I built a frame for a sintra screen using 1" aluminum tubing from 80/20. Instead of right angle connectors at the top corners, I used "T" connectors. I added 1" aluminum tubing extensions to reach the ceiling and fastened it to the ceiling with hinges from 80/20. I painted the hinges and tube extensions to match the ceiling/wall so the blend in. Screen sorta looks like it's floating. The hinge also allows me to fold it up against the ceiling and latch it when not in use. The fireplace is behind it and the wife didn't want it covered all the time.

Hinges are available at an online auction site:

http://cgi.ebay.com/80-20-Aluminum-R...item5634dd770c

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post #12 of 16 Old 10-27-2010, 06:21 PM
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Why not just build a new full width wall in front of the existing wall? Attached at ceiling and stage, covered with fabric. Much like how an acoustically transparent screen wall is built. You might want to add some heavy rubber between the ceiling and the studding, and the stage and the studding, to help isolate the wall from any subs on the stage from the screen wall.

Are steel studs available in south Africa? Might be an option...
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post #13 of 16 Old 11-04-2010, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post

Why not just build a new full width wall in front of the existing wall? Much like how an acoustically transparent screen wall is built.

This is exactly what I was going to suggest. I did this for my screen in my apartment since I am only renting I can't really do much to the walls. You can get ideas from mine if you wish, you can view my screen here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1258660

-Sean
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post #14 of 16 Old 11-05-2010, 06:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adult Beverage View Post

I built a frame for a sintra screen using 1" aluminum tubing from 80/20. Instead of right angle connectors at the top corners, I used "T" connectors. I added 1" aluminum tubing extensions to reach the ceiling and fastened it to the ceiling with hinges from 80/20. I painted the hinges and tube extensions to match the ceiling/wall so the blend in. Screen sorta looks like it's floating. The hinge also allows me to fold it up against the ceiling and latch it when not in use. The fireplace is behind it and the wife didn't want it covered all the time.

Have any photos you'd care to post?
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post #15 of 16 Old 11-05-2010, 04:14 PM
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Here's my front AT wall. It was built in place. The wall was started with a 1x4" screwed into the soffit, with a strip of heavy duty rubber. A plumb bob was then used to mark the stage to establish the edge of the AT wall at the bottom. I then secured a Draper horizontal masking system to the 1x4", then added the vertical studs, and built the lower framing. The picture shows the side attached to the side walls, but this isn't necessary to support the wall. This is being done to ensure a couple of extreme subs won't rattle the AT wall.

The masking system and studs will be covered with bevelled edge panels, covered in Fidelio Velvet while the lower kick panel below, will be black GOM on a stick frame, attached to the ladder framing between the stage and lower mask.

There's four long screws into the soffit, and four (short) screws into the stage. (Fabric walls and acoustical treatments will hide the side wall bracing.)
LL
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post #16 of 16 Old 11-05-2010, 04:20 PM
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let's try that again.... attached the thumbnail.
LL
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