DIY 5D (2D & 3D) type paint mix recommendation - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 01-03-2011, 05:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Just for fun, I am interested in painting a DIY screen to try out with a new JVC RS50 3D capable projector.

The surface would ideally retain as much polarization as possible while still working well for 2D.

I currently have a Stewart Filmscreen StudioTek 130 Deluxe Screenwall fixed frame, circa 1999.

The room is 18' 6 long and 12' 6 wide. The center front row seat has a 9' 6" viewing distance before reclining. The room has complete light control with black carpet, black front wall, black side walls and ceiling extending 3 feet from the front wall, and finally dark red side walls and dark gray ceiling everywhere else.

The current Deluxe Screenwall frame just fits inside of a 91 ¼ wide portion of the front wall that sits 1 foot back to accommodate a window. The window is currently blacked out and covered by the screen. This left room to just fit an 84 wide 16x9 screen with the 3 ½ wide frame. I could mount an even larger screen in front of the window well but would lose 1 foot of room lenth.

I thought I would test a DIY frame and hang it in front of the current fixed screen. With the front wall, 3 feet out along the side wall, including the setback, and ceiling flat black, I could get by with a small felt boarder in order to maximize screen size and possibly even do without any side boarder since the set back is a frame of sorts as is.

I have found a local supplier for Sintra and they can cut a 5' x 10' board to size, I have an airless sprayer and am not afraid to use it, so all I need is some guidance on paint mix, screen size, throw, , best practices, steps to success, etc.



Thank you.
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post #2 of 10 Old 01-04-2011, 06:16 AM
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Let me get a Clarification first....

Is the JVC outfitted to shoot Polarized Light for Passive 3D? To my knowledge it also does not have two separate Light Engines/Bulbs. (...unless your stacking two 'of 'em...that would be cool...)

If this application is Active Sequential w/Shutter Glasses, retention of polarization is not the goal, it's retaining as much Foot Lamberts of reflective brightness from off the Screen's surface while in 3D mode...and wearing the further attenuative Shutter Glasses.

Which is it?

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post #3 of 10 Old 01-04-2011, 07:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Let me get a Clarification first....

Is the JVC outfitted to shoot Polarized Light for Passive 3D? To my knowledge it also does not have two separate Light Engines/Bulbs. (...unless your stacking two 'of 'em...that would be cool...)

If this application is Active Sequential w/Shutter Glasses, retention of polarization is not the goal, it's retaining as much Foot Lamberts of reflective brightness from off the Screen's surface while in 3D mode...and wearing the further attenuative Shutter Glasses.

Which is it?

I'm told the JVC puts out horizontally polarized light; a screen that maintains polarization results in more light through the glasses if the fixed polarizer in the glasses passes polarized light with the same orientation.

The JVC requires active shutter glasses and while a screen doesn't need to maintain any polarization to work, the image through 3D glasses with the same polarized orientation (some active shutter glasses are horizontal like JVC, some are vertical like XpanD), the image through the glasses will be brighter with a screen if it does maintain some polarization.
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post #4 of 10 Old 01-04-2011, 07:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Let me get a Clarification first....

Is the JVC outfitted to shoot Polarized Light for Passive 3D? To my knowledge it also does not have two separate Light Engines/Bulbs. (...unless your stacking two 'of 'em...that would be cool...)

If this application is Active Sequential w/Shutter Glasses, retention of polarization is not the goal, it's retaining as much Foot Lamberts of reflective brightness from off the Screen's surface while in 3D mode...and wearing the further attenuative Shutter Glasses.

Which is it?

Not gonna speak for em' MM but the RS40/50/60 JVS's are all Active 3D machines (Chutter Glasses) EDIT: beat me to it

Your throw distance for a screen that size (assuming the 84" length and approx 96" diag) will want to be around 12' for the rs50. You can go from 9'6" to around 19' however at 12, you will be getting 38 fL's on a 1.0 gain screen. BOOOOM!!! At 12' you can go ahead and make the screen a bit bigger too if you feel so inclined (up to 120"). This setup will give you a substantial amt of FL to work with for 3d and can then probably run eco mode for 2d and still get an amazing image.

There are probably some more economical options for you as far as the screen material goes. I used SINTRA but my screen was bigger. a normal piece of Thrifty White Hardboard you can get at HD will be cheaper ($12.00 i think) and will be cut already at 4'x8'. the sintra for 1/4" thick 5x10 is going to be close to $90.00

Hope that gets you started

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post #5 of 10 Old 01-04-2011, 11:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Not gonna speak for em' MM but the RS40/50/60 JVS's are all Active 3D machines (Chutter Glasses) EDIT: beat me to it

Your throw distance for a screen that size (assuming the 84" length and approx 96" diag) will want to be around 12' for the rs50. You can go from 9'6" to around 19' however at 12, you will be getting 38 fL's on a 1.0 gain screen. BOOOOM!!! At 12' you can go ahead and make the screen a bit bigger too if you feel so inclined (up to 120"). This setup will give you a substantial amt of FL to work with for 3d and can then probably run eco mode for 2d and still get an amazing image.

There are probably some more economical options for you as far as the screen material goes. I used SINTRA but my screen was bigger. a normal piece of Thrifty White Hardboard you can get at HD will be cheaper ($12.00 i think) and will be cut already at 4'x8'. the sintra for 1/4" thick 5x10 is going to be close to $90.00

Hope that gets you started


I would like to test a 91" x 51.2" screen and a 4 x 8 sheet doesn't get me there. I don't mind spending $100 if needed but would gladly pay less if the quality doesn't suffer and the material gets me a larger screen.

Thanks.
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post #6 of 10 Old 01-04-2011, 11:28 AM
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In that case go for the 1/4" thick sintra, that is what I used, cut down to a 110" and framed. it worked great. Im in the process of wrapping the velvet on my border right now and then the screen will be complete. check in on my thread labeled "Batcave check..."

Ive also seen MM refer the the S-I-L-V-E-R paint mix as a good higher gain paint to use with the active 3d setup. Not sure the polarization on it however should this give a substantially higher gain and my silver fire 2.0 setup ends up not having enough for 3d, I may be joining suit.

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post #7 of 10 Old 01-04-2011, 11:36 AM
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I'll send you a formula with enough actual metallic content that a decent degree of polarization is retained. That's not enough for Passive 3D but sufficient for what you describe I'm sure.

Then if your happy, share your experience with others.

MMan

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post #8 of 10 Old 01-04-2011, 04:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

I'll send you a formula with enough actual metallic content that a decent degree of polarization is retained. That's not enough for Passive 3D but sufficient for what you describe I'm sure.

Then if your happy, share your experience with others.

MMan

Thank you. I look forward to it.
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post #9 of 10 Old 01-04-2011, 04:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

In that case go for the 1/4" thick sintra, that is what I used, cut down to a 110" and framed. it worked great. Im in the process of wrapping the velvet on my border right now and then the screen will be complete. check in on my thread labeled "Batcave check..."

Ive also seen MM refer the the S-I-L-V-E-R paint mix as a good higher gain paint to use with the active 3d setup. Not sure the polarization on it however should this give a substantially higher gain and my silver fire 2.0 setup ends up not having enough for 3d, I may be joining suit.

Thanks. Silver does seam to be the screen of choice for 3D. I'll take a look at your thread.
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post #10 of 10 Old 01-10-2011, 01:32 PM
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Hey, MMan...
You were going to send me some paint formulas too... but I never got them. Is there a chance I can get back on your nice list?
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