DIY Grand Dad (w/help)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 396 Post(s)
Your not taking into account the ability to attenuate the PJ's light output via the Menu's Brightness Control.
You don't want to permanently attenuate the amount of reflective light off the screen by going too dark. If that was the goal, I'd be suggesting SF v2 5.0 or 6.0, however...with a big 'ol 125" diagonal 2.39:1 Screen, that's exactly not what you want to do.
Realize that when you zoom out to fill the confines of the 2.39:1 Screen you will not only lose brightness due to the zooming /size that results, you also lose a full 30% of your reflective area...the part of the Projected image at top & bottom that is masked.
This is not a case where the brightness of the PJ's bulb output is refocused via a Anamorphic Lens down from a 16:9 area into a 2.39:1 area. And even that is something that only happens when 16:9 is converted to 2.39:1 via such a Lens.
Remember that Art's settings were matched to not a High Gain / High Contrast Gray, but to something more akin to a Matte White.
You stick to using a 3.0 at the darkest, then Calibrate the Screen based on what you have...not what someone else uses. The SF v2 3.0 will really help the 8350's overall appearance of having even better Contrast, even though and especially because the Iris is not employed, and it will also deliver all the "PoP" you'll desire. Just adjust your PJ to suit the Screen and you'll be fine.