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post #361 of 1753 Old 05-05-2011, 06:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregory View Post


I think that you have to be careful as to what fL's Projector Central comes up with. Not that it's wrong, just that it's difficult to know what picture mode and lamp mode is assumed. I do believe from calculating the numbers that they are using Dynamic. Projector Central says that they use the manufacturer's spec, which is usually the brightest mode (uncalibrated of course). Also, remember that calibration will generally knock more lumens off. They do assume that the bulb life is at 75%, which is another factor to think about...........it is significant.

So, if you are getting decent, but not great fL's THX mode may be too dim, as ERuiz is finding out. I believe he originally had 19 fL's calculated for his set-up, but he is finding that Cinema and Natural modes are too dim. This calculation was most likely based on the Dynamic mode. It would be great if these calculators listed the picture mode and lamp mode.

I generally find the lumen value from various reviews and calculate the fL's myself. I use Projector Central to give me the throw ratio that I use in the calculation. It's very frustrating to see how easily those precious fL's get gobbled up.

By the way ERuiz..........great job!

My calculations are showing that I too would need Living Room mode in Eco lamp mode, but with an Epson 8700, which is brighter than the 8350. I cannot mount the projector as close as you do (mine is 18' throw), so lumen output will be less.

So, my question to you and anyone else with these projectors is what are you giving up in terms of picture quality when going from THX to Living Room mode (black level, contrast, color accuracy, etc,).. Maybe you can't answer that because your image is too dim in these other modes to judge. I ask because in most reviews that you read these other modes are good for TV, but tend to push green, etc. and are not really recommended for movies for the best image.

Thanks,
Greg

Yup, in my case with SF v2 4.0, cinema and natural modes are too dim to be used even with normal lamp. I've been extremely pleased using dynamic mode for general tv and gaming while living room mode for movie watching. When on dynamic, I have my dimmers half way on for some nice ambient lighting and a complete bat cave while on living room mode.

I have been calibrating my setup with Spears and Munsil BD.

One thing I did find out is that you really need to make sure your source is properly setup with the pj. In my case, my source is a PS3 and with the following settings I was getting HORRIBLE shadow details:

PS3 hdmi video range : full
PJ hdmi range : extended

Now with these settings, shadow detail was regained and blacks remained good and not affected:

PS3 hdmi video range : limited
PJ hdmi range : normal

Once I made those changes and recalibrated, I was able to see shadow detail which I was not seeing before.

As for the greenish tint on dynamic and living room modes, I would say I have noticed some slightly on dynamic but mostly when watching SD channels or a low quality feed. HD channels don't show much of a green push. I bet if I could get an ISF to come and calibrate these 2 modes, it would look perfect.

But yes, if going with a 4.0 or darker version of SF, make sure you have the lumens to really make it pop.
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post #362 of 1753 Old 05-05-2011, 06:49 AM
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sometimes all it takes is that 1 or 2 extra fL's to really make everything work.

i am a big proponent of the more fL's the better... so long as the contrast ratio at the pj does not change drastically... which for lesser pj's that is not at all the case. lesser pj's have lumens, but also have (or add) too much pj noise, poor contrast, and extraneous ambient light.

so if you are getting at least 25fL's... i'd personally drop down to 3.0. now if you are on the edge... say 23-24fL's... then either use the HG base... or opt for 3.5 instead.
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post #363 of 1753 Old 05-05-2011, 09:48 AM
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post #364 of 1753 Old 05-05-2011, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

sometimes all it takes is that 1 or 2 extra fL's to really make everything work.

i am a big proponent of the more fL's the better... so long as the contrast ratio at the pj does not change drastically... which for lesser pj's that is not at all the case. lesser pj's have lumens, but also have (or add) too much pj noise, poor contrast, and extraneous ambient light.

so if you are getting at least 25fL's... i'd personally drop down to 3.0. now if you are on the edge... say 23-24fL's... then either use the HG base... or opt for 3.5 instead.

You mean 2.5 for a touch more gain?

What gain can you expect from an HG base?
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post #365 of 1753 Old 05-06-2011, 12:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by WereWolf84 View Post

Hi, I'm totally new to projector, I have bought an Epson 8350 recently and a cheap manual pull down projector screen in high contrast fiber glass material, I'm planning to paint the screen with paint mix (I think I'll go with silver colour, I read many good reviews of it here) to improve the image quality (more bright, punchy, blacker, sharper...etc especially during day time with decent ambient light), does the paint mix applicable to such screen surface? can you guys please provides some advises, recommendations & guidances? below is my situation:

screen size: 119" (placed at the center of 15' 10" of living room)
throw distance: 11' 3"
viewing distance: 8' 6"
projector location: living room (15' 10" x 14' 4") with strong ambient light from the right side walls' windows
projector placement: middle left of rear wall on a shelf in which it is 7' 8" to the left of the center of the screen

Silver Fire v2 4.0 is a "best' choice.

..........however you Screen can not achieve 119" diagonal at a 11' 3' Throw distance. If you actually placed the PJ at that extreme Zoomed distance (...and you don't wanna do that anyway...) the largest screen you could muster would be 115' diagonal .

Here's what I suggest. You room is not that big...and your sitting up pretty close at 8' 6". Drop the Screen size down to 110" (...you can mask off the unused area with Velvet...or Disney's Mouse Ears Black paint)

At a 11' 3" Throw and a 1.2 gain SF v.2 4.0 surface, you clock in at 30 fls

A 110" screen is just 2" shy of 9' across, so even at that teentsy weentsy size your still under a 1:1 ratio, seating distance to Screen width.

Where there's a will there's a way...and we are pretty willing to help you find your way. Just clarify a few points and you'll be on a path to nirvana real soon.


Quote:


projector placement: middle left of rear wall on a shelf in which it is 7' 8" to the left of the center of the screen

Now...ya all meant to say "7" - 8" to the left of Screen Center, didn'tcha?

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post #366 of 1753 Old 05-06-2011, 07:02 AM
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Gregory;

i think you may be a little 'too' fixated on gain at the moment. and while we use the screen calc on pjcentral regularly... it really is meant for white screens. how a white screen and a grey screen at say 1.0 gain will perform is entirely different. and one of the most important things to a more pleasing visual performance is contrast backed by fL's.

there several users here using SF V2 2.0 screens that are 180+ inches and epson pj's that are performing beautifully even though technically they should only be getting 10fL's or even less.

at any rate... if you're considering using the HG base and SF 2.5... then plug in both 1.2 and 1.3 as your gain and get yourself a happy medium as starting point.
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post #367 of 1753 Old 05-06-2011, 10:58 PM
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LITTLE UPDATE:

It seems that I had my pj and PS3 setup INCORRECTLY, which was making the PJ clip the blacks and whites VERY BADLY. This explains the reason why Cinema Mode was so DULL and WASHED OUT. Initially, I thought it had to do with the fact that a SF v2 4.0 mix would need lots of lumens to really make it come to life, but it seems it was the misconfiguration after all the culprit.

The settings in question were the PS3 RGB HDMI RANGE and the Epson 8350's HDMI RANGE.

All along, I had them set as follows:

PS3 RGB HDMI RANGE - FULL
PJ HDMI RANGE - EXTENDED

By using the settings above, my image was extremely dark and yes, the blacks looked black, but it was because they were getting clipped and there was no shadow details at all. No wonder the image was so dark.

Now, after some discussion on the Epson 8350 Official Thread and some information from other sites, I learned that BD/DVDs are encoded as YCrCb. This means that we MUST set the source and display to send and accept the video as YCrCb. Otherwise, we will not be showing the correct values fore the signal and clipping can occur.

In order to set up your PS3 and pj for YCrCb, you need to use the settings below:

PS3 VIDEO OUTPUT - YCrCb
PS3 RGB HDMI RANGE - LIMITED
PJ HDMI RANGE - NORMAL

With the settings above, my image quality shot through the roof! I was seeing stuff on the screen which I had no idea could be seen. Details in shadows was amazing while blacks were still BLACK!

And to my amazement, Cinema Mode was once again USABLE! In my case, I had written Cinema Mode off as being useless but I had it all wrong.

With SF v2 4.0 and Cinema mode with the correct settings, the PQ is simply jawdropping.

One thing though. I did have to set the lamp from ECO to NORMAL, in order to give it that extra push. But I am not complaining because the fan noise is not a problem as it's still very low.

After all this tweaking and learning how to setup this pj properly, I must say that Cinema Mode is hands down the best mode for this pj. I was using living room mode because it looked brighter and better, but after using the settings listed above, now living room looks TOO bright and it has nothing on Cinema Mode's color reproduction and overall PQ.

Once again, I have to thank MississippiMan and PB_MAXXX for this wonderful paint mix. You guys are the real heroes here. Thanks!

PS. The whole time, I have been using the Spears and Munsil HD BD calibration, so my findings weren't just based off of what I thought was write. When outputting in the wrong format, even if you calibrate, the clipping does occur and the image still looks too dark and dim.
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post #368 of 1753 Old 05-07-2011, 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

Gregory;

i think you may be a little 'too' fixated on gain at the moment. and while we use the screen calc on pjcentral regularly... it really is meant for white screens. how a white screen and a grey screen at say 1.0 gain will perform is entirely different. and one of the most important things to a more pleasing visual performance is contrast backed by fL's.

there several users here using SF V2 2.0 screens that are 180+ inches and epson pj's that are performing beautifully even though technically they should only be getting 10fL's or even less.

at any rate... if you're considering using the HG base and SF 2.5... then plug in both 1.2 and 1.3 as your gain and get yourself a happy medium as starting point.

Thanks for setting me straight on the white screen vs gray screen differences.........I was thinking that gain is gain. But is sounds like you can't strictly use gain to calculate fL's and relate it to picture brightness/quality on a gray screen.

Not sure about the HG base. It sounded intriguing because it's high gain, although I was thinking really high gain. It appears that the gain is still in the ball park of the standard SF, with apparently different properties. Probably should stick with the standard SF formulation unless you think the HG base is more appropriate for my application.

Your right.........I was really focused on gain. My concern is that I would get the projector, paint up a screen and then find out the combination did not perform well. Really.......180", 10 fL's and a great picture!

So, at a 125" diag. 2.35 I should have no worries with either the Epson 8350 or 8700.

Thanks for help,
Greg
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post #369 of 1753 Old 05-07-2011, 08:24 PM
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So, first post....please pardon my ignorance

I am 100% new to projectors, theatre rooms, etc (I have been reading a lot though). I decided to add a theatre room to my house when building (about 5 years ago) and am finally getting around to setting it up. Problem is, I bought the projector (InFocus IN72)before breaking ground so it's brand new, but very outdated.

So my question is, what "version" of this screen will work best for my current setup? I understand picture quality won't be near as good as a newer pj, but I'd like to make the best of what I have which is:

-17'x22' room
-2 - 5'x5' south facing windows. Will have curtains so decent light control
-French doors with full glass on the opposite wall of the screen...leads to another room. Will have curtains.
-PJ will be mounted to a 9' ceiling 18' 9" from screen.
-134" screen
-Room is painted a medium gray tone, ceiling is a shade darker.
-White baseboard, window, and door trim(wife won't go for a darker color).
-Recessed lighting on dimmers.

Thanks in advance for any insight you can provide. I'm hoping once my wife gets into the theatre idea, we can make this room something really cool like the other rooms I've seen here
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post #370 of 1753 Old 05-07-2011, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Silver Fire v2

(Reflective Base Components)

28 oz. Delta Ceramcoat Pearl #02601
16 oz. Liquitex Basics - Silver Metallic
10 oz. Behr Interior UPW Flat #1850 (or Exterior #4050)
3 oz. Liquitex Basics - Gold Metallic


(Viscosity Components)

24 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin Finish
18 - 24 oz. Distilled or Filtered water**


(Color Components) ie: "Colorant"

60ml - filtered/distilled water for rinsing color components from utensils
30ml - Liquitex Basics - Napthol Crimson Red
15ml - Liquitex Basics - Phthalocyanine Green
10ml - Liquitex Basics - UltraMarine Blue
5ml - Liquitex Basics - Cadmium Yellow - Deep Hue

Guys, I wasn't paying attention and mixed ALL of the color components into my SilverFire mix. My goal is 1.5 SF V2. How do I fix this?

Btw, I used 18oz distilled water for Viscosity components. I have the Wagner Control Spray Max HVLP Sprayer. Is 18oz okay or should I use more?

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post #371 of 1753 Old 05-08-2011, 06:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CZ Eddie View Post

Guys, I wasn't paying attention and mixed ALL of the color components into my SilverFire mix. My goal is 1.5 SF V2. How do I fix this?

Btw, I used 18oz distilled water for Viscosity components. I have the Wagner Control Spray Max HVLP Sprayer. Is 18oz okay or should I use more?



Wow. You should now have a SF v.2 4.25'er

You cannot just dilute the mix with White...as it will reduce the metallic Content proportionately as well.

The only way to precisely reduce the color shade of the Gray is to mix another batch of Ref-Base / Viscosity Base and combine it with the existing mix. That will get you down to approx 2.0 colorant level. Don't worry....I'm sure another AVS'er will relieve you of your overage if you list it as available for cost of material & shipping only.

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post #372 of 1753 Old 05-08-2011, 06:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HUNDO View Post

So, first post....please pardon my ignorance

I am 100% new to projectors, theatre rooms, etc (I have been reading a lot though). I decided to add a theatre room to my house when building (about 5 years ago) and am finally getting around to setting it up. Problem is, I bought the projector (InFocus IN72)before breaking ground so it's brand new, but very outdated.

Why does every Noob think they are ignorant? They managed to find AVS and decide to ask pertinent questions, so that shows a high degree of intelligence.

Quote:


So my question is, what "version" of this screen will work best for my current setup? I understand picture quality won't be near as good as a newer pj, but I'd like to make the best of what I have which is:

Not to worry. The 72 was / still is a great 720p unit. Many a splendid system have revolved around a DIY Screen matched with the IF 72. The whole point of DIY Screen making is to produce a surface that helps enhance a PJs attributes, never detract from them.

Quote:


-17'x22' room
-2 - 5'x5' south facing windows. Will have curtains so decent light control
-French doors with full glass on the opposite wall of the screen...leads to another room. Will have curtains.
-PJ will be mounted to a 9' ceiling 18' 9" from screen.
-134" screen
-Room is painted a medium gray tone, ceiling is a shade darker.
-White baseboard, window, and door trim(wife won't go for a darker color).
-Recessed lighting on dimmers.

Thanks in advance for any insight you can provide. I'm hoping once my wife gets into the theatre idea, we can make this room something really cool like the other rooms I've seen here

The Screen size / Throw distance seem to be directly from PJC's calculator. Are they values you have fixed in stone? If not, your available options will expand considerably.

To wit:

130" diagonal
17' Throw
21 Foot Lamberts.
Silver Fire v.2 2.0

The Silver Fire will greatly improve the 72's perceived Contrast and deepen it's Blacks while increasing Shadow Detail...but not attenuate it's ability to bounce a goodly amount of Foot Lamberts back 'atcha.

If your not interested in building a big frame and stretching Black Out Cloth across it...and then painting.....or if smoothing Drywall and painting directly onto it seems to be out of the question, you'd have to reduce your Screen size expectations down to 122" diagonal and consider using a 5' x 10' x 1/4" sheet of White Sintra board, cut to 106" x 60" That material needs no priming, and hangs onto a wall to be painted with relative ease.

Keep up the discourse...we'll have you purposefully directed and well on your way to your goal in no time.

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post #373 of 1753 Old 05-08-2011, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregory View Post

Thanks for setting me straight on the white screen vs gray screen differences.........I was thinking that gain is gain. But is sounds like you can't strictly use gain to calculate fL's and relate it to picture brightness/quality on a gray screen.

don't get me wrong now... it's just that gain and contrast are two different things that are mutually exclusive of each other.

we try to use gain to our advantage to increase the fL's available for us to use... but gain in of itself does not necessarily increase contrast.

to get a more visually appealing experience...contrast backed by fL's is the key. too much reflection (ie generally white screens) and you lose contrast...(ie great top end whites with poor bottom end black levels). on the other hand...too much absorbtion (generally grey screens) and you also lose contrast...(ie poor top end whites AND while you may have deeper black levels...they lack black level detail)

so with silver fire... we use fL's a guide to help us determine a good top end white level to start with... and allow the components of silver fire to provide the color, and black level detail to make the picture come to life.
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post #374 of 1753 Old 05-08-2011, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

The only way to precisely reduce the color shade of the Gray is to mix another batch of Ref-Base / Viscosity Base and combine it with the existing mix.

CZEddie, make a mix of just the 'Base components + Viscosity' as MM suggested... BUT only combine 2/3rd's of your current completed mix to it.

this should get you in the neighborhood of V2 1.5
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post #375 of 1753 Old 05-08-2011, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

don't get me wrong now... it's just that gain and contrast are two different things that are mutually exclusive of each other.

we try to use gain to our advantage to increase the fL's available for us to use... but gain in of itself does not necessarily increase contrast.

to get a more visually appealing experience...contrast backed by fL's is the key. too much reflection (ie generally white screens) and you lose contrast...(ie great top end whites with poor bottom end black levels). on the other hand...too much absorbtion (generally grey screens) and you also lose contrast...(ie poor top end whites AND while you may have deeper black levels...they lack black level detail)

so with silver fire... we use fL's a guide to help us determine a good top end white level to start with... and allow the components of silver fire to provide the color, and black level detail to make the picture come to life.

I understand...........thanks for the additional clarification. It's a balancing act. Thanks to you and MM, I have good direction now.

A few CIH decisions to make and I will be ready for a DIY screen............looking forward to this build.


Thanks again,
Greg
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post #376 of 1753 Old 05-08-2011, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post


The Screen size / Throw distance seem to be directly from PJC's calculator. Are they values you have fixed in stone? If not, your available options will expand considerably.

To wit:

130" diagonal
17' Throw
21 Foot Lamberts.
Silver Fire v.2 2.0

The Silver Fire will greatly improve the 72's perceived Contrast and deepen it's Blacks while increasing Shadow Detail...but not attenuate it's ability to bounce a goodly amount of Foot Lamberts back 'atcha.

If your not interested in building a big frame and stretching Black Out Cloth across it...and then painting.....or if smoothing Drywall and painting directly onto it seems to be out of the question, you'd have to reduce your Screen size expectations down to 122" diagonal and consider using a 5' x 10' x 1/4" sheet of White Sintra board, cut to 106" x 60" That material needs no priming, and hangs onto a wall to be painted with relative ease.

Keep up the discourse...we'll have you purposefully directed and well on your way to your goal in no time.

You are correct, I did pull them from PJC's calculator. I had actually planned to go closer to a 150" in the beginning, but based on their specs for optimum mounting height in relation to where I want the screen, the 18' 9" throw distance works about perfectly.

I'm not opposed to anything at this point. I do however have a line on some rigid white material that is sold in 6'x12' sheets for around $100. Hopefully I'll have more info tomorrow. Ideally, I would like to take the screen out of the room if necessary, so the drywall will be my last option.

Thanks so much for the quick response!
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post #377 of 1753 Old 05-08-2011, 12:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HUNDO View Post

You are correct, I did pull them from PJC's calculator. I had actually planned to go closer to a 150" in the beginning, but based on their specs for optimum mounting height in relation to where I want the screen, the 18' 9" throw distance works about perfectly.

I'm not opposed to anything at this point. I do however have a line on some rigid white material that is sold in 6'x12' sheets for around $100. Hopefully I'll have more info tomorrow. Ideally, I would like to take the screen out of the room if necessary, so the drywall will be my last option.

Thanks so much for the quick response!

6' x 12' for $100.00? I tell ya this, your not the only one who will be anxious to hear about any news / info about that!

-But'cha gotta be advised that the larger you go, the more reflective the Screen must be, and that will work against you acheiving the deepest black levels out of the IF72.

If I can impress upon you one thing, it's that with the right decisions made, your end results will have to take no backseat to virtually any 1080p PJ / Screen combo. Shot Gun maybe....but that would still mean you'll be locked and loaded for a excellent viewing experience.

You want a Screen that can be as dark a gray as possible, while still maintaining at least 1.1 gain. Now this is not speculation...as I have done several set ups with the IF72 and I know exactly what it can/will do, and what suits it best as far as the applications you might consider as relates to screen size-available Throw options, and room conditions.

Bluntly put, if the 6' x 12' sheet material pans out, you can go as big as 72" x 128" (147" diagonal" ) however your screen must be at least 1.3 to 1.4 in Gain to deliver a "Better'n a LCD/Plasma" image (18-20 fls) And it won't achieve that unless something helps maintain the perception of Contrast a depth of Black Levels.

That's going to be harder to do as screen size rises. You have 9 vertical feet of screen wall to work with. The Ceiling is gonna be the most likely source of reflection, and although your going down the right road by having it painted out in a Gray, the Top of the Screen's leading edge really cannot be closer than 12" (...and preferably 16"...) to help ward of reflection. Otherwise, the closer the proximity of the Ceiling to the Screen, that darker and less reflective the Ceiling must be. Gosh. 72" + 16" = 88" 9' = 108" That leaves you 20" between the Floor and the bottom edge of the Screen. That might work with just one row of seating...because the Screen itself is 6' tall. But a second row would have to be perched on at least a 14" Platform. You'd need Guard Rails in that Theater!

Size can work against you in other ways as well. Another instance would be this way. If a image starts out having great contrast and deep blacks, it's naturally able to ward off the ill effects of outside sourced ambient light reflections. It might still take a hit, but not as much so as a lighter Gray or White surface..

If the sheer size of the Screen does not match up well with the PJ's attributes, something will suffer. You could for instance run the 72 in Bright Mode on a White , and attempt to calibrate things out, but your gonna have to accept far less as pertains to "Blacker Blacks" You could go with a simple Gray under the same circumstance, and it would be a improvement. But colors would get muted and whites crushed.

Any Cinema Mode would be....really dim.

There are two DIY apps I'd consider suggesting. One would be Silver Fire v.2 2.0 The other SF v2.HG The latter might allow you to run in Economy Mode and achieve Blacker Blacks in a Dark Room setting, while the SF v.2 2.0 will perform better in ambient light and still wow uou in the dark.

Right now I see the screen selection as being the easy part....it's dealing with your inevitable Screen Size selection that presents any uncertainty.

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post #378 of 1753 Old 05-08-2011, 12:42 PM
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Can the SF mixture be painted onto stretched fabric with any amount of success?

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post #379 of 1753 Old 05-08-2011, 12:50 PM
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Can the SF mixture be painted onto stretched fabric with any amount of success?

Yes but you run a higher risk of having a "rough" surface than spraying it on a smooth surface like Sintra, TWB and/or drywall. My second screen was spray painted onto the vinyl side of BOC and it had an overall rough feel to it. As if the fibers had static and were all standing up. My last screen was onto drywall and it's as smooth as a 90 year old's gums.
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post #380 of 1753 Old 05-08-2011, 12:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Can the SF mixture be painted onto stretched fabric with any amount of success?

Yes. (...if you mean "Stretchy" Fabics.) SF paints have been painted onto Spandex...as also has been S-I-L-V-E-R. The Mix must be "wet" and applied at the correct speed and distance w/plenty of overlap on each row.

It's advisable to stretch it out just a little...enough to smooth out wrinkles or fold lines.

It's also a good thing to place it over a solid surface, or over a Tarp or sheet, so that there will be some back pressure provided against the Sprayer's air flow.

Black Out Cloth? No Problemo

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post #381 of 1753 Old 05-08-2011, 12:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey...it's getting crowded on here of a sudden.

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post #382 of 1753 Old 05-08-2011, 12:56 PM
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Hey...it's getting crowded on here of a sudden.

LOL Something must be working right. ;-)
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post #383 of 1753 Old 05-08-2011, 12:57 PM
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Hey all...a few questions. I have decided to try to paint a screen on my new drywall. Im looking at priming first, then following with 3+ coats of sf.

A few questions i did not see the answer to here, may have missed it. Tcan someone point me to the mixing directions?

Also, is painting on the drywall ok? Suggestions?

Edit: pj is epson 8700 in a room that is totally light controlled

TIA

Steve
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post #384 of 1753 Old 05-08-2011, 12:59 PM
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Yes. SF paints have been painted onto Spandex...as also has been S-I-L-V-E-R. The Mix must be "wet" and applied at the correct speed and distance w/plenty of overlap on each row.

It's advisable to stretch it out just a little...enough to smooth out wrinkles or fold lines.

It's also a good thing to place it over a solid surface, or over a Tarp or sheet, so that there will be some back pressure provided against the Sprayer's air flow.

but spandex only? What about a cotten material that had been treated with something like Gesso?...that was already stretched onto a frame?

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post #385 of 1753 Old 05-08-2011, 02:19 PM - Thread Starter
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but spandex only? What about a cotten material that had been treated with something like Gesso?...that was already stretched onto a frame?

I didn't say "Only"...just that Spandex has been used and with great success.

A Gesso covered Cloth that presents a smooth surface (...for a weaved cloth that is....) is most likely gonna work just as well as Spandex does.

Maybe better as far as being easier to manage.

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post #386 of 1753 Old 05-08-2011, 02:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jonesi View Post

Hey all...a few questions. I have decided to try to paint a screen on my new drywall. Im looking at priming first, then following with 3+ coats of sf.

A few questions i did not see the answer to here, may have missed it. Tcan someone point me to the mixing directions?

Also, is painting on the drywall ok? Suggestions?

Absolutely. Some of my best and biggest screens are Drywall examples.

Edit: pj is epson 8700 in a room that is totally light controlled

TIA

Steve

Mixing directions to follow later......gotta fly out the door again.

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post #387 of 1753 Old 05-08-2011, 02:27 PM
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Thanks, guys. Just got home with all the paints. I'll drop it into a 2 gallon bucket and drive to Lowe's and have them mix it for me. Hopefully start spraying tonight.

Spandex 115" wide 2.35 screen.

Two duster coats, 30 minutes between them of drying time.
Then two medium heavy coats, an hour between them of drying time.
Then a single duster coat and start watching movies.
I expect it'll take 2-4 weeks to "cure" into a final product.
My old N8.0 screen took a good 3-4 weeks to fully cure.

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post #388 of 1753 Old 05-08-2011, 02:27 PM
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Mixing directions to follow later......gotta fly out the door again.

Thanks for the reply. I look forward to the directions.

Steve
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post #389 of 1753 Old 05-08-2011, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by CZ Eddie View Post

Thanks, guys. Just got home with all the paints. I'll drop it into a 2 gallon bucket and drive to Lowe's and have them mix it for me. Hopefully start spraying tonight.

Spandex 115" wide 2.35 screen.

Two duster coats, 30 minutes between them of drying time.
Then two medium heavy coats, an hour between them of drying time.
Then a single duster coat and start watching movies.
I expect it'll take 2-4 weeks to "cure" into a final product.
My old N8.0 screen took a good 3-4 weeks to fully cure.

If possible, clean the sprayer after EVERY coat. I know its tedious but at least you will ensure that the sprayer will spray evenly and consistently.
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post #390 of 1753 Old 05-08-2011, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
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I didn't say "Only"...just that Spandex has been used and with great success.

Whoops i jumped to conclusions :-P.

What do the materials generally run for a batch of SF?

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