The Official Silver Fire V.2 Thread. - Page 31 - AVS Forum
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post #901 of 1644 Old 10-03-2012, 12:04 PM
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Currently have the 2.0 to get better blacks with the panasonic would I go to 5.0? Total light control
room. I want to go as dark as possible and still have enough lumens.

FOR SALE: Sony VPL-W200/new spare bulb less than 220 hours on projector like new!!!!!!
Check the classifieds!!!!!!
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post #902 of 1644 Old 10-03-2012, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pessimus View Post

I'm not sure what you're asking. If you have all that stuff, what do you mean by which one? Which projector? Which Silver Fire? Which screen size? I'll just assume you meant Silver Fire, and you'd change away from 2.0.
I was debating that projector myself when I got the Epson 8350. It was the only other competitor around the same price, really. And yes, 2800 lumens is ridiculous. I'm about to do 4.0 with the 8350 at 2000 lumens at a little under 11' throw and 92" screen size. When I use the projector calculator with your setup and with mine, it looks like yours would clock in at about 25 fL with your setup, where mine is 28 fL with my setup. So, I'm not sure about 4.0, maybe 3.5 or 3.0 would be good for you. Then again, if you don't have much ambient light, the 2.0 that you have sounds like it would do fine...that is, if you meant the 120" screen is currently a 2.0.

I agree with your logic but calibrated lumens in best mode is less than 600 same as the JVC RS2 I replaced and 2.0 was just right for 600 lumens the Panasonic is 950 lumens
in best mode so I am thinking 5.0 is correct but want to make sure before I reshoot the screen.

FOR SALE: Sony VPL-W200/new spare bulb less than 220 hours on projector like new!!!!!!
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post #903 of 1644 Old 10-09-2012, 01:04 PM
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OK, so I've been calling around local areas for Sintra, and the best prices I can find are:
$31 for 3mm x 4' x 8'
$80 for 6mm x 4' x 8'

I've read on these forums about the 3mm possibly being a problem due to it's being almost too flexible, but would that be a problem for about a 95" diag. (47" x 83") screen? $50 is quite a difference.
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post #904 of 1644 Old 10-09-2012, 03:08 PM - Thread Starter
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IMHO.....not really. The thicker material is much easier to work with and requireslItoe or no supportive frame....the latter which will cost you some of that $50.00 anyway plus a good deal of additional labor.

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post #905 of 1644 Old 10-09-2012, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

IMHO.....not really. The thicker material is much easier to work with and requireslItoe or no supportive frame....the latter which will cost you some of that $50.00 anyway plus a good deal of additional labor.
Hmm, what if I already bought the materials for the frame? I was going to build that first. Would 3mm work? I've been modeling mine after this: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1303114/amazing-grace-theater-build
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post #906 of 1644 Old 10-09-2012, 06:16 PM
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Good evening fellow SF enthusiasts! I have a quick question...I have a screen that I did back in July. It's a 3.0 mix on the Menards white melamine board and I LOVE it! It's funny that after a few months it feels as if it looks even better each time I use it. I was wondering, however, what the best way to clean the screen is. It's not that it's really in need of cleaning but I know that my old plasma that sat in roughly the same location needed to be dusted at least once a month. The surface isn't rough at all but I'm worried that whatever I do use may leave lint or something. What's everyone else use?
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post #907 of 1644 Old 10-10-2012, 02:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Non-static Duster Wand.

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post #908 of 1644 Old 10-10-2012, 03:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pessimus View Post

Hmm, what if I already bought the materials for the frame? I was going to build that first. Would 3mm work? I've been modeling mine after this: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1303114/amazing-grace-theater-build

Read that post carefully. You will note that the author still had the bowing that any very thin unsupported material usually presents. The only absolutely certain way that a 3 millimeter product can be used is if it's entire surface , or at least a large majority of it can be adhered to another flat substrate.

I didn't suggest using the 6 millimeter because it was a guess. I always make my reccommendations based on a great deal of experience using a particular product. Otherwise I will always state that my comments are "ONLY" suggestions, not well established mandates. Your not the first poster to buy first then ask questions later. Unfortunately, when that happens the poster often questions the advice given, and the end result all too often do not pan out accordingly.

It all boils down to this. I tell people to do things or to use certain products because they are well proven. In the end the final decision almost be left up to them, based on a variety of reasons that quite often neither I nor they have any real control over. But if the poster does have a good degree of control over their decision making and their choice runs contrary to advise, all we both can do is hope for the best, and be prepared to deal with the worst.

So do us both a favor and get the 6 millimeters Sintra. If you do, and also build a frame as you are planning to do, then you can usually attach the thicker Sentra to the supportive uprights using a thinly spread adhesive caulk. No bumps...no bowing.......

......no problemo. cool.gif

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post #909 of 1644 Old 10-10-2012, 09:42 AM
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Excellent, then I will do that. $80 sounds reasonable compared to the other prices I'm seeing posted here. Guess I was hoping for way too low.

Which caulk would you recommend? I've checked and there are like a dozen different kinds, and even with Liquid Nails there's lots of different strengths.

EDIT: Nevermind, I see you've already made lots of suggestions in this thread on what to do with exactly the setup I'm doing. This post seems to answer my questions.
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post #910 of 1644 Old 10-12-2012, 07:33 PM
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OK, this freakin sucks. I was just getting everything ready tonight to build and paint the screen and everything tomorrow (picking up the sintra tomorrow), covered everything I could, and when I was prepping the spray gun, I can't find the stupid plastic tool that comes with it that removes the needle assembly. The item is in the parts list in the manual, so it should be included. Everything else is.

Does ANYONE know of any other way to take it apart? Anything I can stick in there to unscrew it? Do they sell the stupid little retarded thing at Lowes? I don't see it on their website. This is just so damn frustrating. I should have just bought a screen with all these frustrations. I got this Graco 2900 off of ebay refurbished. Just goes to show that even a seller with over 100,000 transactions and 99.8% rating, still may not be trustworthy. What can I do if they didn't give me the necessary parts to even clean the damn thing after using it?!
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post #911 of 1644 Old 10-12-2012, 09:05 PM
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Anyone anyone. Really don't want to waste my day tomorrow.
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post #912 of 1644 Old 10-13-2012, 01:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Calm down!

You do not need to remove the Needle to rinse out the Gun. That tool is used primarily for removing the Needle for replacement / exchange. If you purchase a 1.5 mm Needle, you'll get another one along with it so keep your "Tool" in hand and squirt away with confidence.

Even if you stick with the Needle that comes with the 2900 (2mm) as I stated, you can simply rinse the Gun through using a strong stream of water.

Myself...if possible, I use a high pressure Nozzle on a Garden Hose set to Full Blast. Sometimes I get a little wet, but the Gun is clean as a whistle.

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post #913 of 1644 Old 10-13-2012, 09:25 AM
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*sigh* OK, thanks. I ordered a 1.5mm, but it's not here yet. I guess I could still put at least the duster coats on today with the 2.0mm.

As for right now...I'm about to start building the frame.
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post #914 of 1644 Old 10-13-2012, 12:35 PM
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Just got the 1.5mm in the mail from Graco...and it didn't come with the tool. mad.gif

So, here is the e-mail correspondence with the company that sells the Graco on eBay.

VMInnovations response to my negative feedback for shipping an incomplete item:
Quote:
Dear Kevin,

I am emailing you in reference to your recent order for the Graco HV2900 that you had purchased on eBay. We have noticed that you have left negative feedback regarding that order and would like to follow up with you on this to see if there is anything we can do to make this a positive experience for you.

I do understand this is missing a part and I am very sorry for that. Due to the inconvenience, and if you would be willing to revise your negative feedback from negative to positive, I would be happy to either refund you $15 for the inconvenience and to get that part locally or send you a prepaid shipping label to send that back for a replacement or a full refund.

Please respond to this email or call us (866-639-9320) and let us know if this would work for you or if there is anything else we can do for you to make your experience with VMInnovations a positive one. Thanks!

Mallory Hickenbottom
Customer Service Representative
VM Innovations

My response:
Quote:
I would prefer to call, but since you're closed when you sent this e-mail, I guess e-mail is the only choice. If I understand this e-mail correctly, you would like me to change my feedback to positive and THEN you will send me the tool that is missing in the first place.

I can't actually believe I'm being asked to change my feedback to positive BEFORE you remedy this situation. Is this a joke? This is how it works: The product I paid for gets the necessary part shipped to me by you, which should have happened in the first place, and THEN I change my feedback to positive. I will NOT change my feedback to positive unless I actually get the complete product.

As for the local part, they do not have it. I checked today.

There is a solution to this: You go into one of the multiple other boxes of this unit that you most likely have in your wearhouse, pull out the "Fluid and Needle Remover Tool" that comes with it, and ship it to me. THEN I will change my feedback to positive.

One other thing: I am posting this e-mail thread on an online forum for you to follow. This Spray Station is a highly recommend one, and you are the primary link given at the start of the thread. I'm sure you do not want this kind of negative publicity, so let's see where you take this.

I mean, really!? They are essentially holding their customer service ransom, with the ransom price being my positive feedback. That's pretty low. That calls into question EVERY eBay company if they actually get away with this crap. It undermines the entire feedback system.
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post #915 of 1644 Old 10-13-2012, 01:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Earlex is the Mfg and the kit they provide has the tool.

I suggest you get them involved.

Until then, a pair of slim Needle Nose Plyers will work.

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post #916 of 1644 Old 10-13-2012, 01:24 PM - Thread Starter
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I sure can't blame you for being PO'd

It does seem that the less expensive EBay offering is definately a true Refurbished item while the 1 on Amazon usually comes as a new, unused unit.

I've never had any of the Amazon units have missing parts I suggest . It will be a real bummer if the eBay merchant turns out to be so flaky.

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post #917 of 1644 Old 10-13-2012, 01:58 PM
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Yeah, we'll see...

So, I got the OOK French cleats (I thought I ordered Hangman; the product even says Hangman, so maybe they're the same), but I can't seem to figure out if they need to be in a stud or not. My studs are 24" apart, so these 18" things would only have the support of one stud. Other Hangman products say they can work in just drywall. I have no idea if I can ignore the studs with these or not, and, as usual when it comes to hardware and building, good detailed instructions are just not to be found. The screws are pretty coarse. Anyone know? The video supposedly showing me the instructions doesn't even apply; it shows "Easy Toggles" being drilled into the wall. This product doesn't come with easy toggles, and who knows what they even are.



Anyway, I'm calling it a day. Supposedly easy things are hard and annoying because companies can't write documentation worth a damn, and the hard-looking things are easy. Story of my life. Well, at least I got the frame built and picked up the Sintra.
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post #918 of 1644 Old 10-15-2012, 09:25 AM
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OK, it seems like lots of sites are saying that I can center the cleat on one stud and just put drywall anchors in the other holes. Guess I'll do that tonight.
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post #919 of 1644 Old 10-15-2012, 02:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Those screws are called "Wall Dog' screws and if you secure using a standard Coarse Threaded 2" Drywall Screen to a Stud, as close to "center" on the Hangman as possible, placing at least 2 "Dogs" to each side of the center of the Hangman / Drywall Screw (4 "Dogs" total ) should be plenty.

Hand tighten the "Digs to Snug so as to not strip out the drywall.

Anchors are of course gonna work, but it's harder to get a Hangman hanging exactly level and at the exact height needed when you have to pre-drill small holes...tap in a Anchor, and then hope that everything lines up.

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post #920 of 1644 Old 10-15-2012, 04:13 PM
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Gotcha. So there aren't actually any screws that came with it to go directly into the stud. Weird. And when you say "secure using a standard Coarse Threaded 2" Drywall Screen to a Stud", I'm going to assume you meant "screw", not "screen". The screen itself won't have any screws in it at all. It's already industrial velcroed to the frame. And yes, I got the 6mm Sintra. smile.gif
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post #921 of 1644 Old 10-15-2012, 07:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Oh you...you....you Storm Trooper you!

It was that damnable"Auto word completion" feature on my phone " speech to text" software that done did me in.

But come on now, I can't ever remember seeing or hearing about a little"coarse threaded drywall screen.". Until now that is.

Congratulations! I'd say you reasoned that one out real good! I think we're on a roll here!


JKA of course.smile.gif

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post #922 of 1644 Old 10-15-2012, 08:11 PM
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Ha, yeah, I can use that thing between my ears...sometimes.

Got everything mounted, most of my plastic taped up (to protect from overspray), and I'm pretty much ready to go for tomorrow! Unfortunately, I slightly damaged the front of the Sintra. frown.gif Just going to have to tolerate it. It's in the lower right corner, and you'd really have to focus on it to see it. Hmm, although...the multiple coats may take care of it anyway. That'd be nice. smile.gif


It's a little high right now -- I mismeasured the height, so I'll bring the cleats down about 5 inches or so later, but this is good enough for painting.
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post #923 of 1644 Old 10-16-2012, 08:30 AM
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Earlex is sending me the needle removal tool for free.

Completely edited this post from before. For those of you who might have seen this post, this is why you read the manual: "Air will continually flow through the front of the gun but no paint will be sprayed until the trigger on the spray gun is pulled." So yeah, I'm dumb. There was no air leak.
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post #924 of 1644 Old 10-16-2012, 10:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Man.....

Yes...the gun blows air all the time.

If the needle sits correctly in the nozzle orifice your ok.

I did say...2x... that you do NOT have to remove the needle to rinse the gun. If you want to take it apart completly at the end...ok,

.......but I don't. I just rinse the Gun through with a strong stream of water.

Look to your PM for a solution to your seemingly endless. issues.

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post #925 of 1644 Old 10-16-2012, 10:39 AM
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Haha, thanks. smile.gif I must seem like quite the drama...king. Yeah, after the second duster I did as you said and just used water. Worked great.

And wow, from what it looks like there's going to be lots of SF leftover afterwards. Hmm...what to do with it...

Also, those who might be following me, don't be discouraged -- the screwups were my own fault so far. Make sure to practice with the gun on something. That would have helped my first coat.

UPDATE: Yup. Fourth coat now, and looking SO much better.
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post #926 of 1644 Old 10-16-2012, 02:41 PM
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I built a SF screen which I very much like and am proud of actually. I made a reply into a negative anti silver fire post on the Home Theater Shack website. I even made an offer to DIY their best formula and compare fair and square. They ended up banning me. YES they banned me for talking about it here. OK So im banned from HTS no real loss IMO. Then the keep sending me their newsletter. Ain't this enough to piss you off. I respond with a straight up cus out for them being so ignorant as to try to MARKET to a BANNED person. then they file a complaint with my ISP becuse I hurt their feelings.
They go on to say to me how terrible society is now days because of people like me.. Matter of fact I"ll cut and past their reply below:


The ISP abuse complaint is not a threat. It is very serious. A copy of this email is being sent to your ISP and you email provider. Please consider the three emails you have sent us, which are all copied below my signature, and ask yourself why any ISP or email provider should allow you to continue to have service with their organization. Your replies are email abuse to the fullest extent and no ISP or email provider should allow such conduct by their users. Surely they have policies against this kind of abuse. You should be banned from using the Internet period.

You were banned from Home Theater Shack because you broke our rules by lying and bad-mouthing us in another forum. You agreed and accepted our rules on two different occasions when you joined our forum and subscribed to our newsletter. Yet you ignored our rules. Anyone can easily go and read the threads in question and see that you lied. I will also be happy to provide the clear evidence of this violation as well. We never refused to send you any formulas... every formula we recommend is posted freely on our forum for anyone to use. The problem is (as you yourself stated) you are a "newb" and you have no idea what you are looking at. Our moderators very politely tried to explain this to you. Their have been many... (hundreds) that have created various screens that had what they thought was a "WOW" factor. "WOW" does not necessarily mean that it is accurate. Many will say that it is good enough for them, and that is fine, just as we suggested to you that if you like it well enough, that is fine... if you are satisfied with less than accurate. Yet "WOW" does NOT always mean accurate... there can be a clear difference and it takes a keen eye to see the difference. You have a choice to learn what is accurate or ignore it. There was no reason for you to get defensive about it and go to another forum and bad mouth us with your lies. It was very disrespectful and it is a clear violation of our rules.

47 years old? Now there is a "WOW" in the extreme. So this is the disrespectful language you have learned in your 47 years of life? I am truly amazed at the kind of filthy mouthed immature people that litter up our society today. It is truly ashamed that a grown man cannot communicate with any more respect than what you have shown. I am not sure what you intend to accomplish with that language because it is only an embarrassment to yourself and your family.

Our newsletter campaign is handled by a separate entity than our forum, therefore when we ban someone from our forum, their email address is not automatically deleted from the newsletter database. If you no longer wish to receive the newsletter, you simply click the Unsubscribe link and you are removed. The emails and foul mouthed language is not necessary. All you had to do was unsubscribe and move on about your life.

You have been removed from our newsletter database. Your email address has been added to our blocked list so that we do not have to continue to absorb your abuse.

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Sonnie Parker
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Did I bad mouth them, I don't think so. Will I bad mouth them? YES any chance I get.

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post #927 of 1644 Old 10-16-2012, 04:35 PM
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Sometimes it's hard to get the facts, especially when there are so many conflicting points. I've checked out some of the stuff on HTS about Black Widow, SF, etc. before, as well as here. Without knowing anyone personally (face to face) on either forum, I simply went with what I was looking for: about a 1.0 gain, gray screen. The best candidate for that seemed to be SF. It was simply a deduction for me. I don't like to get into nasty stuff on forums. I have a family member that has wasted much of their time with online drama, and they've learned (and I through them) that it's just not worth it. Glean what facts you can, and be done with it. If the "facts" are right, then great; if they're not, then you'll know when push comes to shove.
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post #928 of 1644 Old 10-16-2012, 05:41 PM
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Five coats on and lookin' great. Once this one dries I'll put a final coat on for good measure. Pictures to follow tonight or tomorrow night.
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post #929 of 1644 Old 10-17-2012, 06:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Toksook,

Stepped into HTS's big pile of Moose-doo, eh?

Well, you have to understand that Sonny brought on board all the fellows that were banned by or left AVS because they couldn't exercise that sort of behavior at will on this Forum, and in the hope that they would elevate HTS into some higher degree of prominence.

As such, the "Administrator" and various "Moderators" feel free to say whatever they want knowing they themselves are protected by the "one Strike against us and yer OUT" rule they initiated to squash comments that might call out their own abuse. You can be sure that they don't require all those seeming "Mods" but the titles do lend the protection...and the Axe needed to keep alternative opinions at bay.

It's proven futile to try to convince Sonny of the actions of his own people...he can't dump the Boys that he needs to keep things going so he turns a blind eye to their own offenses . But in fact, the message you received doesn't even read like a "Sonny" missive...more like a "Mech-attack". One might note how the dig, "that is fine... if you are satisfied with less than accurate. Yet "WOW" does NOT always mean accurate... there can be a clear difference and it takes a keen eye to see the difference. " as well as the abusive comments that followed is not the sort of reply a Forum owner would engage in with a Member....but as for the other fellow....absolutely, being so very full of himself. I'd almost bet the Barn he wrote it on behalf of Sonny. Perhaps even without his knowledge. And to say that they extend their rules beyond their own Forum is to say they have the right to censor & censure people for what / who they are elsewhere? Well...you and anyone else would want to run the other direction from that sort of tyranny in any case.

Anyway...you can be certain they went looking for an excuse, and grabbed at what they could. What they didn't take into account is how proud a Alaskan DIY'er would be of his own handi-work, and how much offense he'd take at being told he doesn't know enough to know good from bad results. So ya went "Palin" on 'em! Too bad that, as that just helped them look abused themselves. And in such cases, that would give them a right to complain to a ISP. So keep that ol' Igloo warm, but don't build such a blaze that it melts down around ya!

But the real issue was your choice of paint. Let's face it....that was your real ticket on the Train to Condemnation. Welcome Aboard!

Now let's simply ignore them and get back on the "The Peace Train".

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

http://www.invisiblestereo.com
MississippiMan is offline  
post #930 of 1644 Old 10-18-2012, 02:57 PM
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Hi all, i have a jvc rs45
room is 16x13, so factoring the projectors size that will leave me a throw of 14.5

On the projectorcentral calculator i can get it up to 120x68 16:9 with 1.9 zoom and 1.2 gain and I'm in the green part.

Whats the maximum screen i can have? Is 120x68 too big?

Walls are dark red if that matters, mainly watching movies at night, so it will be pretty dark.

If 120x68 is the max what mix would you suggest?
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