The Official Silver Fire V.2 Thread. - Page 46 - AVS Forum
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post #1351 of 1682 Old 01-05-2014, 12:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Please take note on page 1 of the change in the Polyurethane from MinWax Satin to Rustoleum's Ultimate Polyurethane Matte Finish (water based)

...........as well as the change from Liquitex Silver to Martha Stewart's Living Metallic Polished Silver 343 560

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post #1352 of 1682 Old 01-09-2014, 05:20 PM
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Hey I need some advice

I will be moving soon and I need to redo my home theater screen when I do move.

The Room is basically a living room that does not have complete light control but is decently controlled with black out curtains on one side. And I have a ceiling mounted Epson 8100 Home Cinema projector projecting what I expect to be a 136-138 inch image.

Could someone please recommend what level I should be using for this application. 2.0 or 3.0?

I had previously used Screen Goo and was pretty satisfied with it, but this time around I noticed this thread and the results seem better then what I had with Screen Goo at a comparable or cheaper price.

Would this have to be sprayed or can it also be rolled? I don't have experience spraying paying.

Also I am a bit confused reading the first post, does this go down as one mixed paint in multiple layers or is there a base coat and top coat difference separate from the primer its on?

Thanks!
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post #1353 of 1682 Old 01-10-2014, 06:38 AM
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Silver Fire needs to be sprayed in "duster coats". There is much information available in the threads. I have the same projector and the recommendation used to be 2.0 but things have been going darker lately due to higher lumen projectors. You probably want to wait for MM to weigh in on whether 2.0 or 3.0 is best with the new formulation. You mix the "colorant components" together and in a separate and larger container you mix the "reflective components" together. You the mix the colorant blend into the reflective blend and adjust to the needed viscosity with water, strain the paint, then spray. The amount of colorant in ounces gives the designation of the darkness of the screen. In other words Silver Fire v2.5 1.0 would contain 1 oz. of the colorant mixture. Silver Fire v2.5 3.0 would contain 3 oz. of the colorant mixture, etc.

If you don't want to/can't spray then MaxxMudd LL would be your best choice.
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post #1354 of 1682 Old 01-10-2014, 06:09 PM
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just wondering if you have tried faux glaze instead of the pearlesent? To me it seems to possible work
but looking for stronger advice? I am going to spray a silver fire 4.0 screen this weekend subsituting
this? If s-i-l-v-e-r works why wouldn't this?

FOR SALE/TRADE: Sony VPL-W200/ less than 220 hours on projector
comes with new spare bulb. $1800.00
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post #1355 of 1682 Old 01-11-2014, 05:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greg1292 View Post

just wondering if you have tried faux glaze instead of the pearlesent? To me it seems to possible work
but looking for stronger advice? I am going to spray a silver fire 4.0 screen this weekend substituting
this? If s-i-l-v-e-r works why wouldn't this?

Did you really mean substituting Faux Glaze for the Polyurethane? Omitting the Pearlesence would be very counterproductive.

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post #1356 of 1682 Old 01-11-2014, 08:17 AM
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"Did you really mean substituting Faux Glaze for the Polyurethane?" MM

Yes this one. I remember you saying the Faux Glaze works well at suspending the particles/silver and if there
would be any advantage to adding this into the mix. I'm bored and want to paint a new screen:)

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post #1357 of 1682 Old 01-11-2014, 11:09 AM
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Just finished buying all the components for SF.  I can get everything locally except the Behr 1850 UPW (no Home Depot here).  I went to Menards and asked for a replacement for Behr 1850 and they gave me some Pittsburgh Grand Distinction flat white.  They said it's their whitest white.  I assume this will be fine but wanted to make sure I'm not making a big mistake.

 

Also my setup.  Benq 1070, 126" BOC screen, 11'1' throw.  There is a small amount of ambient light during the day but more time  is spent watching after dark.  I'm happy with 2d performance but 3d looks quite dim.  I was thinking SF V2.5 3.0, is that correct?  Or should I do 2.0?  Really I am less concerned with ambient light performance, I would rather it look the best it can after dark.

 

The calculator on projectorcentral says I have 20fl to work with.  I would like to be able to run eco for 2d then use normal or smarteco when I need more brightness for 3d.

 

Thanks in advance.

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post #1358 of 1682 Old 01-11-2014, 07:37 PM - Thread Starter
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SF v2.5 2.0

Be certain to use the latest components

Rustoleum Metallic Accents – White Pearl
Martha Stewart's Living Metallic Polished Silver 343 560
Rustoleum's Ultimate Polyurethane Matte Finish

Also add an additional 6 0z of the Bright White PP paint.

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post #1359 of 1682 Old 01-11-2014, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

SF v2.5 2.0

Be certain to use the latest components (Martha Stewart Silver / Rustoleum Matte Poly)

Also add an additional 6 0z of the Bright White PP paint.

Thanks.  I mixed up some 3.0 with liquitex silver (Lowes did not have Martha Stewart silver, I will order it before I mix again) and I did use the Rustoleum Matte Poly.  I messed it up a little bit by putting in 25% too much of the Poly but it was only a 20% volume batch so not a huge waste if the batch is ruined.  I shot it on a 1'x4' melanite board.  I got very smooth duster coats with an Iwata hvlp primer gun w/ 1.4mm tip.

 

 

 

I would not say I was wowed by the sample of 3.0 when I held it up in front of my screen but it could be in part due to my mixing mistake.  It did have noticeably deeper blacks though, even in full darkness.  It is impressive with ambient light though.

 

I will mix up a full batch with what you suggested but it probably won't be for a while, I still have to build a frame for my cloth and get it hung before I can spray.  I currently have my BOC directly on the wall stretched with tacks... ghetto I know, but it works.  :D

 

Will report back when I get the screen up.

 

Thanks again for the advice.

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post #1360 of 1682 Old 01-13-2014, 08:01 AM
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I'm overdue for posting a Thank You to this forum. I painted a Silver Fire screen about a year and half ago, and have been enjoying it ever since. Recently I saw some videos demoing a Black Diamond screen, and I thought that maybe they'd hit on a technological breakthrough that was worth upgrading. The video made it look like their screens were night and day better than anything else out there. I managed to get a hold of a sample, and honestly, it didn't seem like it was much of an improvement compared to what I already have. The blacks were about the same as my Silver Fire, and the whites were a little darker. So I have a new appreciation for what this bunch has accomplished here.
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post #1361 of 1682 Old 01-14-2014, 12:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Great to have you post up your observations that are based on a actual direct comparison. It's what we like to have happen, because we can post a mess of statements alluding to how well SF compares to Mfg "Black Screens" but they too often get labeled as being hype or even promotional in being.

But supplanting the Mfg Screen options "afford-ably" is exactly what they are intended to do, so thank you for your posted conformation.

As a added effort, could you post up here? http://www.avsforum.com/t/1360471/silver-fire-end-user-roll-call-please-give-your-testomonials-and-opinions

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post #1362 of 1682 Old 01-14-2014, 02:08 AM
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Sure.. Happy to do it.
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post #1363 of 1682 Old 01-17-2014, 12:41 PM
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Hey, considering pulling the trigger and doing this. Was hoping someone could make sure I am straight in my understanding of this.

I will be moving to another town house in the same complex so my lighting situation will stay pretty similar. Here is a shot of my current set up with Goo Systems Max Contrast



and with image projected




I have an Epson Home Cinema 8100 Projector and will be projecting to a screen about 130 inches with the angle opened up as far as it can go.

Can someone suggest me what level I should go to for darkness?

Now I just want to make sure I'm straight in what I need as far as materials go

Liquitex BASICS Acrylic Paint 4-oz tube, Naphthol Crimson $8.95
Liquitex BASICS Acrylic Paint 4-oz tube, Phthalocyanine Green $8.95
Liquitex BASICS Acrylic Paint 4-oz tube, Ultramarine Blue $6.85
Liquitex BASICS Acrylic Paint 8.5-oz tube, Cadmium Yellow Deep Hue $10.02
Homax 69011 1-Gallon PolyPro Mixer/Galvanized Steel Rod $8.80
Rust-Oleum Metallic Accents 253611 Decorative 32-Ounce Quart Water Based One Part Metallic Finish … $24.92
1 Gallon Elastic Opening Strainer Bags 6 Pieces $8.50
Liquitex BASICS Acrylic Paint 4-oz tube, Gold $8.32

(from amazon)

Rustoleum's Ultimate Polyurethane Matte Finish $12.06
http://www.lowes.com/pd_456846-90-271638_0__?productId=4570132

Martha Stewart Living 10-oz. Polished Silver Metallic Paint x 3 = $14.91
http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202587572?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&N=5yc1vZ1z10m19&R=202587572#
what I've found so far

Is this the Behr 1850? Home Depot 23.96 Gallon
http://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-Premium-Plus-1-gal-Ultra-Pure-White-Flat-Enamel-Zero-VOC-Interior-Paint-185001/202761515#

Does Lowes or Home Depot permit renting of a paint sprayer? Also the link for the 1.5 needle in the first post doesn't work is there somewhere else to get that?

Also am I buying enough or too much of anything?

Also and to verify all the paints should be mixed together and blended with the squirrel cage and then the prescribed amount of water added to the mix and only increased slightly if the paint doesn't strain easy?
and duster coats are really quick coats not worrying about everything being perfectly coated and avoiding being wet?

Thanks in advance
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post #1364 of 1682 Old 01-17-2014, 08:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Your component list is correct.

However some correction of the following:
Quote:
Also and to verify all the paints should be mixed together and blended with the squirrel cage and then the prescribed amount of water added to the mix and only increased slightly if the paint doesn't strain easy?
and duster coats are really quick coats not worrying about everything being perfectly coated and avoiding being wet?

Viscosity Mix (Poly-Water...in the listed amount) is mixed separately.

Reflective Mix is then added to the Viscosity Mix, each component separately and mixed in each time. The Water / Poly mixture helps dilute and blend the Reflective components.

Colorant Mix is assembled, and then added to the complete mix in whatever chosen amount is necessary to achieve the level of Gray desired / needed.

Additional water is added...incrementally...to achieve the required lessening of viscosity required for quick passage of the paint mix through the Filter as well as a smooth flow through the Gun.

Duster Coats are lightly, rapidly applied coats that are specifically intended to effect gradual and even coverage. The observance of a 70% row overlap is essential in achieving such.

I know of no place that rents any type of true HVLP equipment, let alone the type (Electric Airless) suggested on this Forum.

Also at this time I want to urge those just starting to consider spraying to obtain and use a 1.0 mm Needle if at all possible, and never use anything above a 1.5 mm needle if such can be avoided.

Here are valid links to available Needles.

1.5 mm

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BG6DIM/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2NWLOWWF5G7JX

1.0 mm

http://hardwaredistributors.com/needle-earlex-1-0-mm.html?gclid=CNqw8sfuhrwCFYhcMgodCyUAbQ
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Earlex-1-0-mm-04-in-Brass-Tip-and-HV3500-Needle-Kit-HVACV1/203391445#.Utn__LRMHwo


Note:

Revisions and updated Links have been posted on Page 1

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post #1365 of 1682 Old 01-17-2014, 08:59 PM
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thanks again for the help.

How long would I have to wait between coats?

based on the images I posted before would you be able to suggest what level (ounces of colorant) I should be using for my situation? 2.0 or 3.0?

Thanks!
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post #1366 of 1682 Old 01-17-2014, 09:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KBS756 View Post

thanks again for the help.

How long would I have to wait between coats?

I just finished applying 6 coats of SF onto a 10' x 50" sheet of Sintra in just 3 hours. I used a 1.0 mm needle, and the Duster method, assisted by raising the room temp to 78 degrees and using a 20" Pole Fan set at 7' from the center of the screen. Time between coats was just under 25 minutes.

The extremely small droplets a 1.0 mm needle produces, combined with sufficient room temperature and increased air circulation had everything to do with the dry time. But most importantly, the surface of the painted Sintra was incredibly smooth, with NO vestige of paint texture.
Quote:
Based on the images I posted before would you be able to suggest what level (ounces of colorant) I should be using for my situation? 2.0 or 3.0?

Thanks!

4.0, and the prescribed SF mix is diluted with an additional 8 oz of UPW

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post #1367 of 1682 Old 01-17-2014, 11:02 PM
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would this gun work?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000DZBP60/ref=gno_cart_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

and are the previously mentioned tips universal ? or would i need a wagner part like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-Spray-0272903-Ceramic-Spraygun/dp/B000FPAQY0/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1390028405&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=wagner+control+1mm

thanks

lastly this goes ontop of a primed smooth surface?
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post #1368 of 1682 Old 01-18-2014, 05:10 AM - Thread Starter
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The Wagner Control Spray shown (Original Model) will work, but requires a slightly different spray technique.
This model is probably a better choice. http://www.lowes.com/pd_456699-97-0529015_4294684405__?productId=4619640&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=

The accessory Tip you linked to will not work with the Wagner CS, nor will the "linked to" Tips I posted...the latter being specific to the Graco HVLP units (1800 through 3500)

It does seem that all locations that offer the Reconditioned Graco HVLP units are currently out of stock.

Here is a new one: http://www.lowes.com/pd_326053-89183-HV2900USG_4294684405__?productId=3142757&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=

And a upgrade too...: http://www.spray-station.com/HV3900.html

...and a Graco 1900: http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B005JGHAVW

Bluntly put, if one is trying to match or exceed the performance of a Black Diamond, and save the extra $2800.00+ while doing so, they should not be hesitating about spending $125.00 to $150.00 or so for a optimal paint delivery device like a "New" Graco HVLP 2900 or 3900 along with the suggested 1.0 Needle kits.

The $49.00 to $79.00 reconditioned Graco 2900 sprayers have been available for over 3 years, so eventually they were bound to get scarce, or disappear altogether.

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post #1369 of 1682 Old 01-18-2014, 05:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

The Wagner Control Spray shown (Original Model) will work, but requires a slightly different spray technique.
This model is probably a better choice. http://www.lowes.com/pd_456699-97-0529015_4294684405__?productId=4619640&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=

The accessory Tip you linked to will not work with the Wagner CS, nor will the "linked to" Tips I posted...the latter being specific to the Graco HVLP units (1800 through 3500)

It does seem that all locations that offer the Reconditioned Graco HVLP units are currently out of stock.

Here is a new one: http://www.lowes.com/pd_326053-89183-HV2900USG_4294684405__?productId=3142757&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=

And a upgrade too...: http://www.spray-station.com/HV3900.html

...and a Graco 1900: http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B005JGHAVW

Bluntly put, if one is trying to match or exceed the performance of a Black Diamond, and save the extra $2800.00+ while doing so, they should not be hesitating about spending $125.00 to $150.00 or so for a optimal paint delivery device like a "New" Graco HVLP 2900 or 3900 along with the suggested 1.0 Needle kits.

The $49.00 to $79.00 reconditioned Graco 2900 sprayers have been available for over 3 years, so eventually they were bound to get scarce, or disappear altogether.

Just about to throw out a pile of cash for a dual screen setup but before I do I would like to ask the end users of the Silver-Fire group , is this product as good as the claims?

I'm considering the Da-Lite High Power 2.4 for 3D viewing, likely on a 136" curved screen fixed. The second screen will be a 1.0 or 1.3 gain reference screen in a electric drop for 2D. Has anyone using the Silver-Fire replaced one of these
screens with the DIY Silver-Fire ?.
I have the new Sony VPL VW600ES and I have a dedicated bat cave theater 100% light controlled. I'm more interested in quality of picture for movies in a black room, I rarely watch content with any lights on at all.
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post #1370 of 1682 Old 01-18-2014, 06:02 AM
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KK thanks for the advice will go out and buy a 2900 today, looks like I will have to wait on the needle though. Thanks again!
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post #1371 of 1682 Old 01-18-2014, 06:18 AM
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@Roxie, for the price of the components of the SilverFire mix and the equipment involved, I think it's worth the effort of mixing and spraying for you to form your own opinion. Honestly I don't know how much convincing you would need beyond seeing it for yourself. For less than $300 you get to learn a lot about mixing and painting (and sanding, etc), and you just might find you love the screen. If you don't, spend your money on the high dollar screen.

What I can say based on 12 years of creating and owning controlled light theaters in two houses, spanning three projectors, is that I am 100% happy with this screen. 12' diagonal watching 2D Blu-Ray and TV and 3D Blu-Ray and On Demand material I haven't found any problems with the screen.

Something profound

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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoob5555 View Post

@Roxie, for the price of the components of the SilverFire mix and the equipment involved, I think it's worth the effort of mixing and spraying for you to form your own opinion. Honestly I don't know how much convincing you would need beyond seeing it for yourself. For less than $300 you get to learn a lot about mixing and painting (and sanding, etc), and you just might find you love the screen. If you don't, spend your money on the high dollar screen.

What I can say based on 12 years of creating and owning controlled light theaters in two houses, spanning three projectors, is that I am 100% happy with this screen. 12' diagonal watching 2D Blu-Ray and TV and 3D Blu-Ray and On Demand material I haven't found any problems with the screen.

Thanks for responding

What kind of screen did you have before, a manufactured, what brand, design and gain? Certainly this applies if this is your first was a sprayed on screen. I was trying to form a base line opinion comparing painted Silver-Fire to one of the screens that I mentioned first.
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post #1373 of 1682 Old 01-18-2014, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Honestly I don't know how much convincing you would need beyond seeing it for yourself.

I think that's the most important sentence I wrote. If you lived close to me or MMan or pbmaxx we could demo it for you. I'm sure there are others who would be willing to demo it, because I think that's probably the only way you (and most other folks) could decide for yourself.

I started out with an eighty-something inch dalite screen on a frame. Don't remember what it was, but probably a cheap 1.0 gain screen. I wanted bigger with the next (HD) projector, so I investigated manufactured screens, including the SilverStar, and then found this forum and started helping develop some roll-on mixes to help with low-lumen projectors. Those were the days of MississippiMud and variants with MMan and CMRA. I eventually settled on a few 94" screens (one rolled and another sprayed onto a mirror) and still used the one until earlier this year when I sprayed over it with this latest concoction (the mirror broke several years ago). The old one is in the kids/gaming theater and I sprayed it at the same time I sprayed the 12' main theater screen.

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post #1374 of 1682 Old 01-18-2014, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoob5555 View Post

I think that's the most important sentence I wrote. If you lived close to me or MMan or pbmaxx we could demo it for you. I'm sure there are others who would be willing to demo it, because I think that's probably the only way you (and most other folks) could decide for yourself.

I started out with an eighty-something inch dalite screen on a frame. Don't remember what it was, but probably a cheap 1.0 gain screen. I wanted bigger with the next (HD) projector, so I investigated manufactured screens, including the SilverStar, and then found this forum and started helping develop some roll-on mixes to help with low-lumen projectors. Those were the days of MississippiMud and variants with MMan and CMRA. I eventually settled on a few 94" screens (one rolled and another sprayed onto a mirror) and still used the one until earlier this year when I sprayed over it with this latest concoction (the mirror broke several years ago). The old one is in the kids/gaming theater and I sprayed it at the same time I sprayed the 12' main theater screen.

I'm located in Newfoundland Canada. I can almost guarantee I will not find someone near me with this product . I do travel considerably but coordinating a visit is not always convenient for myself or the potential owner.
I'm more interested in someone that has one on one experience with a high power screen, a good unity gain and the Silver-Fire product. The cost of the product and application tools are not expensive but the preparation
of a surface and the time would be an issue for me. Would rather just figure it out and make a commitment.
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post #1375 of 1682 Old 01-18-2014, 09:20 PM
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honestly if you desire to get better 3D... then the HP is the wrong way to go.
nearly all the top projector manufacturers are recommending that for 3D you should go with a high gain grey/silver screen... not a white one.

here's review of a well respected member who has compared it both to the HP and vultec silverstar.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1325654/time-for-a-new-screen/30#post_20467571
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post #1376 of 1682 Old 01-19-2014, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

honestly if you desire to get better 3D... then the HP is the wrong way to go.
nearly all the top projector manufacturers are recommending that for 3D you should go with a high gain grey/silver screen... not a white one.

here's review of a well respected member who has compared it both to the HP and vultec silverstar.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1325654/time-for-a-new-screen/30#post_20467571

Thanks for the feedback

Passive 3D use silver screens , I have "active" 3D, other grey silver screens manufactured are made for ambient light rejection. Many higher gain white screen are recommended for active 3D as long as they do not retain too much polarization and higher gain
is certainly necessary to make up the 70-80% light loss through active polarized glasses.

I have already tested most of the fabrics and my choices are correct if I buy a manufactured screen. I'm considering Silver-Fire paint on for 2 D application and use the Da-Lite 2.4 High Power for 3D. No one screen can do it all for both
for the best 2D and 3D applications. There are screes and paint that advertise good for both but I guarantee there will be compromises . I'm going for the best of both so two screens is desirable.
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you are for the most part informed with respect to active vs passive. silver fire in it's recommendation is wholely for active 3D as it has no metal particles in it's current makeup and therefore retains little if no polarization.

the problem with the HP in active 3D is that it lacks contrast... which is very important in a well formed 3D image regardless of active/passive. 2ndly, due to it's retro reflective nature, you are very much limited to direct head on viewing... one seat left or right or even a turn of the head and all the gain is lost.

i've seen the difference on many types of screens from the DNP's to the JK's to the HP's. there is no comparison, and it's exactly why the projector manufacturers themselves such as EPSON are recommending high gain grey/silver screens for active 3D.

i honestly don't think you need both.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

you are for the most part informed with respect to active vs passive. silver fire in it's recommendation is wholely for active 3D as it has no metal particles in it's current makeup and therefore retains little if no polarization.

the problem with the HP in active 3D is that it lacks contrast... which is very important in a well formed 3D image regardless of active/passive. 2ndly, due to it's retro reflective nature, you are very much limited to direct head on viewing... one seat left or right or even a turn of the head and all the gain is lost.

i've seen the difference on many types of screens from the DNP's to the JK's to the HP's. there is no comparison, and it's exactly why the projector manufacturers themselves such as EPSON are recommending high gain grey/silver screens for active 3D.

i honestly don't think you need both.

The HP has blacks that are only a little less than a comparable low gain screen when side by side . The contrast ratio doesn't change, it only shifts and this is why the HP 2.4 has far superior whites, color and brightness. For 2D my Solar 4K 1.3 gain is amazing but lacks the punch for 3D. The HP does have a narrower
viewing cone and I know it is retro reflective. In my setup as is I only get about 1.9 gain from the screen which is plenty and the slight loss in the front row wide seats are not too bad.The other seats have a gain.

I'm going to stick to the HP for 3D, it is in many homes , well proven for 3D, large screen applications and low lumen projectors. I'm going to consider the Silver-Fire for a paint on application as I will require a larger screen than my current 120" diagonal Solar 4K. I will likely paint a wall and make a 4 way mask for 3D
with the silver-fire and use the HP as a electric drop for 3D.
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my apologies. i was not aware you already owned an HP 2.4. and considering that you also own a solar4K. i'm of course very interested in your opinions should you decide to make a siver fire screen.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

my apologies. i was not aware you already owned an HP 2.4. and considering that you also own a solar4K. i'm of course very interested in your opinions should you decide to make a siver fire screen.

No apologies required, it's all about learning, understanding and sharing the same. I've learned a little more from the dialog and hopefully I can apply this to making a better informed decision.

I actually do not own a HP 2.4 but I have three 12" squares, two of which are the Da-Lite HP 2.4 product and one piece is the Elune Vision 2.4 also retro reflective. It was impossible to tell the two apart even in a self administered blind test.

I watched the remastered 3D Titanic movie ( well a small part) last night on the Solar 4K, it was the best 3D I have ever experienced. If the screen was larger I would be satisfied to leave this as is and if the Silver-Fire can match this quality I will
be happy to do a large wall section and make a 4 way making system. The Solar 4K material will cost almost 3-4K in a large fixed frame so I am looking at options.
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