Originally Posted by rpmfla
I am preparing to paint my 120" Favi electric screen with silverfire 2.5, and am leaning toward 3.0. I currently have a Panasonic AX200U which is pretty bright, and it is 14' from the screen in a family room which I'd describe as having moderate ambient light. We use the projector mostly at night, so most of the light in the room is a result of projected light bouncing off the side walls and ceiling.
It would be advisable to use the SFv2.5 3.0
if you were to stick with the AX200U..........but iffin' ya gonna change...........
Been there and left a suggestion.
I want to purchase a JVC projector since I really crave blacker blacks. I am guessing that if I choose the 3.0 "darkness" of SF it will be great for the very bright Panasonic but the JVC will undoubtedly be less bright so maybe 2.0 would be better for that.
So, if I were to go with a JVC 46 would the 3.0 grey of SF be too dark for that projector?
You must be referring to a DLA-RS49....not a 46 since the latter is out of production. JVS's do give the appearance of being brighter than they are because of their higher native Contrast, and that aspect does mean that the Blacks they produce....if not subjected to much ambient light interference....start out blacker and have further to go before they get reduced to being lessor in quality when slight ambient light is present.
Because of that, I have been doing a great many installations using the Panasonic or Epson PJs that have 2400 lumens and pretty much the equivalent Blacks of the less expensive JVCs. But most importantly, when the higher lumen output AND the deep Black levels are projected onto a SF v2.5
surface, the Blacks really dive into the basement.....or go subterranean.
Also, such PJs as the Pannys and Epsons can run on Low Lamp and use optimized Modes, furthering the depth of contrast, and still provide a brighter image at larger sizes...under more adverse conditions.
Brook no mistake, a JVC in a wholly light controlled setting is a wonder to behold, but you still have some overriding light issues, albeit reduced from the past. And further, the latest rendition of SF v2.5
using both the Rustoleum Pearl and Silver as well as the Rustoleum Matte Poly create a darker reflective base, and under reasonable low ambient light conditions, and using a higher lumen PJ with good contrast, I have found myself using lighter Colorant amounts, and in fact at times omitting the Colorant entirely. The latter produces something very much akin to RS-MaxxMudd Retro, which itself does a great job of enhancing Contrast while maintaining gain.
Oh, and since I am a Studio Art grad, I wanted to ask if you ever considered Gesso as the white component in the mix.
Gesso is much too thick "as is" and would need to be watered down so much it would be crazy. It also is more expensive. White it does contain a high amount of Titanium Dioxide, there are more viable and easier to work with choices.
.......also, the Mixes I employ are able to handle the many Lowering / Retraction cycles because of the high amount of dilution and Polyurethane content, as well as the fact they are comprised almost wholly of Acrylic type paints.
Sorry, and one more (slightly off topic) question...I want to make the black border of my screen a few inches wider before I do the SF v2.5 application. What paint should I use for that? I assume it would be better to do the black before the SF as it probably wouldn't be a good idea to apply blue (or green "frog") tape to the painted SF screen surface.
Yes, you could / should do it beforehand, (...and use Frog Tape....) but personally I would abstain from even doing so because when you have to paint the Screen, the Border will have to be masked, and for that you also must use Frog Tape and get a good seal. But when you remove the Tape.....there is a good chance the black paint will pull away.
You don't want that.