The Official Silver Fire V.2 Thread. - Page 53 - AVS Forum
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post #1561 of 1578 Old 08-23-2014, 02:25 AM
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I am desperate to get to work on this.
I live in the UK (London) and have no idea how to get started.
MM has recommended I use SF 2.5/3.0. I think my best and cheapest bet is to see if anyone has enough left for a 106" screen to get shipped over?
Also how much this would cost? I still need to buy the spray gun.
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post #1562 of 1578 Old 08-23-2014, 06:19 AM - Thread Starter
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You will need at least just over a quart and a half. Most people mix up a wee more than 3 quarts as specified by the instructions, and most screens are a bit larger than 106". But you might get lucky. It should be shipped USPS International Priority Flat Rate. Nothing would be cheaper. The Cans need to be labeled "Water Based Artist Paint" and sealed heavily with tape. The Cans wrapped in Bubble Wrap...and packed so that they cannot shift about. It's important that they be packed well, as the USPS frowns upon leaky packages.

This is the Gun you should try to get.

http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0417005.../dp/B000DZBP60

It's equivalent in the UK is the Wagner 550, but I believe that model is now coming with the larger 2.2 mm nozzle. It also cost more.

Be sure to check back to review painting instructions once you get your material / gun so that you can nail it on your first go round.
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post #1563 of 1578 Old 08-23-2014, 03:59 PM
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Hello, i'm new here. I wanted to say that i bought all the ingredients, graco sprayer and 1mm niddle too. I bought fibreboard board and it is very smooth. Now i'm thinking about priming. DO i need it? Also i want to ask you about sanding between coats, what sandpaper grit do i need?

Thank you for answers. Sorry if there any mistakes because english is not my native.
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post #1564 of 1578 Old 08-23-2014, 04:02 PM
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this is an example of the board, it is really smooth and i'm thinking, do i need to sand it before painting?

Last edited by Bogoved; 08-23-2014 at 04:03 PM. Reason: this is an example of the board, it is really smooth and i'm thniknig, do i need to sand it before painting?
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post #1565 of 1578 Old 08-24-2014, 01:28 AM - Thread Starter
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If the Fiberboard is not sealed, it will absorb paint at different levels and rates. Some fiberboard has one side that is almost polished in appearance, and that type can allow the first 2-3 Duster coats to act as a sealer.. No pre-sanding required with sealed or Polished Fiberboard.

It is best to use what is called a Large Sanding Sponge, and you want a Fine Grit. Use it Dry. If you must use Sand Paper, a 220 Grit is good, wrapped around a 8" x 3" x 1" Sanding Block, and used with a very light pressure

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post #1566 of 1578 Old 08-24-2014, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
If the Fiberboard is not sealed, it will absorb paint at different levels and rates. Some fiberboard has one side that is almost polished in appearance, and that type can allow the first 2-3 Duster coats to act as a sealer.. No pre-sanding required with sealed or Polished Fiberboard.

It is best to use what is called a Large Sanding Sponge, and you want a Fine Grit. Use it Dry. If you must use Sand Paper, a 220 Grit is good, wrapped around a 8" x 3" x 1" Sanding Block, and used with a very light pressure
I have fiberboard with one side sealed, covered with with some plastic material (white plastic film maybe), and other is just polished. Polished side is perfectly smooth. When i'm trying to sand sealed side - white parcticles of dust everywhere, so i think it is just painted with some plastic paint. Sealed side is a little bit rough, not perfectly smooth. So what side is better for painting in this case?

Thank you!!!
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post #1567 of 1578 Old 08-24-2014, 06:10 PM - Thread Starter
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The smooth white side, and you DO NOT sand it. The coating is almost always what is called Melemine

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post #1568 of 1578 Old 08-26-2014, 07:33 AM
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Quote:
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The smooth white side, and you DO NOT sand it. The coating is almost always what is called Melemine
That's what I'm using to back my black-out cloth until I get the paint around. It cost me $13 dollars for a 4x8 sheet at Lowes. Sort of like a dry erase board, just not as polished. The only thing that kept me from using it by itself was the hotspotting.

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post #1569 of 1578 Old Yesterday, 12:59 PM
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MDF is ready to go almost 105" 16:9. Got all my paint materials and Wagner gun. Going to be going for a Silverfire 5.0
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post #1570 of 1578 Old Yesterday, 05:45 PM - Thread Starter
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MDF is ready to go almost 105" 16:9. Got all my paint materials and Wagner gun. Going to be going for a Silverfire 5.0
I would stick with 4.0+. The stated measured amounts you use when making the Colorant amount to being just slightly over 4.25 oz.

With the newer mix that contains Rustoleum Silver, that should easily give you the darker shade you want.

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post #1571 of 1578 Old Yesterday, 07:49 PM
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I would stick with 4.0+. The stated measured amounts you use when making the Colorant amount to being just slightly over 4.25 oz.

With the newer mix that contains Rustoleum Silver, that should easily give you the darker shade you want.
Well I went with 5oz of colorant. I am about 5 coats in and it looks really goooood
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post #1572 of 1578 Old Yesterday, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
I would stick with 4.0+. The stated measured amounts you use when making the Colorant amount to being just slightly over 4.25 oz.

With the newer mix that contains Rustoleum Silver, that should easily give you the darker shade you want.
Does using the darker Rustoleum silver or the previous darker Martha Stewart silver maintain the white just as well as if you were using the lighter liquitex silver?? I know that using darker silver will help more with ambient light but wasn't sure if it still delivered the same ability to hold the whites vs using a lighter silver paint.
Second, once one has mixed the colorant into the silver fire mixture how long can it be stored for future use??
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post #1573 of 1578 Old Yesterday, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by narhic_fd View Post
Does using the darker Rustoleum silver or the previous darker Martha Stewart silver maintain the white just as well as if you were using the lighter liquitex silver?? I know that using darker silver will help more with ambient light but wasn't sure if it still delivered the same ability to hold the whites vs using a lighter silver paint.
Second, once one has mixed the colorant into the silver fire mixture how long can it be stored for future use??

I used rust oleum silver and whites seem very good during spraying. I'm 7 coats in. Going for 12
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post #1574 of 1578 Old Today, 04:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Ivwolfevi View Post
I used rust oleum silver and whites seem very good during spraying. I'm 7 coats in. Going for 12

Whoa....

At 7 coats you should be already there...unless they were the lightest Dusters ever.

Don't overdo it! The more paint that is applied, the longer the coats hold moisture underneath and even with Dusters, retained moisture can rise up and create texture.

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post #1575 of 1578 Old Today, 04:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Second, once one has mixed the colorant into the silver fire mixture how long can it be stored for future use??
In a well sealed, airtight container ( Plastic or Teflon Lined ) the paint will keep almost indefinitely if kept from freezing. You will have to re-stir it though...and re-filtering is also a good idea.

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post #1576 of 1578 Old Today, 07:08 AM
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Whoa....

At 7 coats you should be already there...unless they were the lightest Dusters ever.

Don't overdo it! The more paint that is applied, the longer the coats hold moisture underneath and even with Dusters, retained moisture can rise up and create texture.
Went with 8 coats
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post #1577 of 1578 Old Today, 08:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Yay.

I was a little concerned.

Viewing now will be great...but as the paint cures further it will continue to get even better.

Looking forward to your evaluation and some images & screenshots.

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post #1578 of 1578 Old Today, 09:01 AM
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Yay.

I was a little concerned.

Viewing now will be great...but as the paint cures further it will continue to get even better.

Looking forward to your evaluation and some images & screenshots.
I'm thinking once i let it cure and get a real feel for it. I will do another one. But on a smoother surface such as sintra. I got a quote for a 100x56" piece for 275

Being that I had to join mdf together. So I have a seam....
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