The Official Silver Fire V.2 Thread. - Page 53 - AVS Forum
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post #1561 of 1587 Old 08-23-2014, 02:25 AM
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I am desperate to get to work on this.
I live in the UK (London) and have no idea how to get started.
MM has recommended I use SF 2.5/3.0. I think my best and cheapest bet is to see if anyone has enough left for a 106" screen to get shipped over?
Also how much this would cost? I still need to buy the spray gun.
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post #1562 of 1587 Old 08-23-2014, 06:19 AM - Thread Starter
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You will need at least just over a quart and a half. Most people mix up a wee more than 3 quarts as specified by the instructions, and most screens are a bit larger than 106". But you might get lucky. It should be shipped USPS International Priority Flat Rate. Nothing would be cheaper. The Cans need to be labeled "Water Based Artist Paint" and sealed heavily with tape. The Cans wrapped in Bubble Wrap...and packed so that they cannot shift about. It's important that they be packed well, as the USPS frowns upon leaky packages.

This is the Gun you should try to get.

http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0417005.../dp/B000DZBP60

It's equivalent in the UK is the Wagner 550, but I believe that model is now coming with the larger 2.2 mm nozzle. It also cost more.

Be sure to check back to review painting instructions once you get your material / gun so that you can nail it on your first go round.
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post #1563 of 1587 Old 08-23-2014, 03:59 PM
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Hello, i'm new here. I wanted to say that i bought all the ingredients, graco sprayer and 1mm niddle too. I bought fibreboard board and it is very smooth. Now i'm thinking about priming. DO i need it? Also i want to ask you about sanding between coats, what sandpaper grit do i need?

Thank you for answers. Sorry if there any mistakes because english is not my native.
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post #1564 of 1587 Old 08-23-2014, 04:02 PM
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this is an example of the board, it is really smooth and i'm thinking, do i need to sand it before painting?

Last edited by Bogoved; 08-23-2014 at 04:03 PM. Reason: this is an example of the board, it is really smooth and i'm thniknig, do i need to sand it before painting?
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post #1565 of 1587 Old 08-24-2014, 01:28 AM - Thread Starter
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If the Fiberboard is not sealed, it will absorb paint at different levels and rates. Some fiberboard has one side that is almost polished in appearance, and that type can allow the first 2-3 Duster coats to act as a sealer.. No pre-sanding required with sealed or Polished Fiberboard.

It is best to use what is called a Large Sanding Sponge, and you want a Fine Grit. Use it Dry. If you must use Sand Paper, a 220 Grit is good, wrapped around a 8" x 3" x 1" Sanding Block, and used with a very light pressure

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post #1566 of 1587 Old 08-24-2014, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
If the Fiberboard is not sealed, it will absorb paint at different levels and rates. Some fiberboard has one side that is almost polished in appearance, and that type can allow the first 2-3 Duster coats to act as a sealer.. No pre-sanding required with sealed or Polished Fiberboard.

It is best to use what is called a Large Sanding Sponge, and you want a Fine Grit. Use it Dry. If you must use Sand Paper, a 220 Grit is good, wrapped around a 8" x 3" x 1" Sanding Block, and used with a very light pressure
I have fiberboard with one side sealed, covered with with some plastic material (white plastic film maybe), and other is just polished. Polished side is perfectly smooth. When i'm trying to sand sealed side - white parcticles of dust everywhere, so i think it is just painted with some plastic paint. Sealed side is a little bit rough, not perfectly smooth. So what side is better for painting in this case?

Thank you!!!
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post #1567 of 1587 Old 08-24-2014, 06:10 PM - Thread Starter
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The smooth white side, and you DO NOT sand it. The coating is almost always what is called Melemine

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post #1568 of 1587 Old 08-26-2014, 07:33 AM
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The smooth white side, and you DO NOT sand it. The coating is almost always what is called Melemine
That's what I'm using to back my black-out cloth until I get the paint around. It cost me $13 dollars for a 4x8 sheet at Lowes. Sort of like a dry erase board, just not as polished. The only thing that kept me from using it by itself was the hotspotting.

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post #1569 of 1587 Old 09-01-2014, 12:59 PM
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MDF is ready to go almost 105" 16:9. Got all my paint materials and Wagner gun. Going to be going for a Silverfire 5.0
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post #1570 of 1587 Old 09-01-2014, 05:45 PM - Thread Starter
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MDF is ready to go almost 105" 16:9. Got all my paint materials and Wagner gun. Going to be going for a Silverfire 5.0
I would stick with 4.0+. The stated measured amounts you use when making the Colorant amount to being just slightly over 4.25 oz.

With the newer mix that contains Rustoleum Silver, that should easily give you the darker shade you want.

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post #1571 of 1587 Old 09-01-2014, 07:49 PM
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I would stick with 4.0+. The stated measured amounts you use when making the Colorant amount to being just slightly over 4.25 oz.

With the newer mix that contains Rustoleum Silver, that should easily give you the darker shade you want.
Well I went with 5oz of colorant. I am about 5 coats in and it looks really goooood
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post #1572 of 1587 Old 09-01-2014, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
I would stick with 4.0+. The stated measured amounts you use when making the Colorant amount to being just slightly over 4.25 oz.

With the newer mix that contains Rustoleum Silver, that should easily give you the darker shade you want.
Does using the darker Rustoleum silver or the previous darker Martha Stewart silver maintain the white just as well as if you were using the lighter liquitex silver?? I know that using darker silver will help more with ambient light but wasn't sure if it still delivered the same ability to hold the whites vs using a lighter silver paint.
Second, once one has mixed the colorant into the silver fire mixture how long can it be stored for future use??
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post #1573 of 1587 Old 09-01-2014, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by narhic_fd View Post
Does using the darker Rustoleum silver or the previous darker Martha Stewart silver maintain the white just as well as if you were using the lighter liquitex silver?? I know that using darker silver will help more with ambient light but wasn't sure if it still delivered the same ability to hold the whites vs using a lighter silver paint.
Second, once one has mixed the colorant into the silver fire mixture how long can it be stored for future use??

I used rust oleum silver and whites seem very good during spraying. I'm 7 coats in. Going for 12
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post #1574 of 1587 Old 09-02-2014, 04:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Ivwolfevi View Post
I used rust oleum silver and whites seem very good during spraying. I'm 7 coats in. Going for 12

Whoa....

At 7 coats you should be already there...unless they were the lightest Dusters ever.

Don't overdo it! The more paint that is applied, the longer the coats hold moisture underneath and even with Dusters, retained moisture can rise up and create texture.

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post #1575 of 1587 Old 09-02-2014, 04:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Second, once one has mixed the colorant into the silver fire mixture how long can it be stored for future use??
In a well sealed, airtight container ( Plastic or Teflon Lined ) the paint will keep almost indefinitely if kept from freezing. You will have to re-stir it though...and re-filtering is also a good idea.

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post #1576 of 1587 Old 09-02-2014, 07:08 AM
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Whoa....

At 7 coats you should be already there...unless they were the lightest Dusters ever.

Don't overdo it! The more paint that is applied, the longer the coats hold moisture underneath and even with Dusters, retained moisture can rise up and create texture.
Went with 8 coats
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post #1577 of 1587 Old 09-02-2014, 08:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Yay.

I was a little concerned.

Viewing now will be great...but as the paint cures further it will continue to get even better.

Looking forward to your evaluation and some images & screenshots.

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post #1578 of 1587 Old 09-02-2014, 09:01 AM
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Yay.

I was a little concerned.

Viewing now will be great...but as the paint cures further it will continue to get even better.

Looking forward to your evaluation and some images & screenshots.
I'm thinking once i let it cure and get a real feel for it. I will do another one. But on a smoother surface such as sintra. I got a quote for a 100x56" piece for 275

Being that I had to join mdf together. So I have a seam....
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post #1579 of 1587 Old 09-02-2014, 07:20 PM - Thread Starter
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$275.00 !!!! The absolute most a sheet 120" x 60" x 6mm should cost anywhere in the Continental US is $145.00 and often less than $120.00

Send me a PM with your full address, as well as the name / location you got that obscene quote from and let's see how much better I can do for ya!

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post #1580 of 1587 Old 09-02-2014, 10:41 PM
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$275.00 !!!! The absolute most a sheet 120" x 60" x 6mm should cost anywhere in the Continental US is $145.00 and often less than $120.00

Send me a PM with your full address, as well as the name / location you got that obscene quote from and let's see how much better I can do for ya!
I just got quoted $89 for white 120" x 60" 6 mm at a place in L.A. , they have to have it delivered , so when I figure out when I can steal my friends 20' box truck to bring it home , I'll be ordering from them. The next step will be either borrowing a gun , or bartering with my painting contractor friend to get him to spray for me.

Edit: it wasn't Sintra , different brand of PVC that they didn't have a sample of in store. they had samples of Sintra and another brand , can't recall the name , but the Sintra def. had a tougher surface. light thumbnail pressure dented the other brand , but didn't seem to do anything to the Sintra. May still look for the Sintra locally for the extra durability it seems to have

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Last edited by acras13; 09-02-2014 at 10:47 PM.
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post #1581 of 1587 Old 09-05-2014, 06:04 PM
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Wink Newbie from Spain

Hi guys, first all thanks soooo much for this hard work to develop these formulas, thanks MM and PB max
I'm next to order all components from amazon, because here it's impossible to find Rustoleum paints, and it is hard to find liquitex paints. But my problem is the Behr 1850 upw flat, which it is not in amazon and I can't find anywhere to order it. Maybe could I find a similar paint with the main features of Behr 1850? Could someone help me with these features to find or how could I get it here?
One more thing, even with the risk of seem so stupid.. Is that the 100 ml water for the colorant components is described "for raising colors from utensils", so should I mix this water with the liquitex components or not? That's a big difference, because in one way you have a 100ml of colorant base or you add the water and have 200ml of base which you will have to add to other paints. I didn't work these paints before, that's why I ask this.. Sorry...
I'm making a curved screen with plasterboard, what do you recommend to priming? The same white paint which finally be used to the reflection mix is good for priming?
I have a hvlp gun with 1mm, which I used before for car painting. Should I use it to priming too?
About right viscosity to shoot, must be like milk?
Thanks so much!
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post #1582 of 1587 Old 09-15-2014, 06:52 PM
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MississippiMan, i need to buy a replacement squirrel cage mixer but amazon appears to be out of the 1 gallon squirrel mixer. All they have now is the 5 gallon and 10 gallon one. Any idea where i could get another replacement??
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post #1583 of 1587 Old 09-16-2014, 12:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Lowes often has them in stock.

If not: http://www.hardwaretogo.com/product/...-mixer-1g.html

You might just want to grab the one up in the Link. It took me 10 minutes of searching to find one outlet. Seems the product is in extremely short supply!

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post #1584 of 1587 Old 09-16-2014, 08:28 PM
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MM , here again to ask another question along my extremely long road to actually get started on my screen. I tried a search , but didn't find anything , so... What are your thoughts on the Graco TrueCoat Plus? I just got one for a price too good to pass on (free) , used for about 3-4 hours total , according to the painter that gave it to me . He said he was less than thrilled with it , but that he never sprays and he thinks he never set it up right. Just curious if it might be acceptable with the right tip. Thanks in advance and sorry if this has been answered.

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post #1585 of 1587 Old 09-16-2014, 09:31 PM - Thread Starter
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It might be acceptable using the right Tip after the paint is thinned. I can't really say for certain, I have never used one or had anyone else refer to such.

One can only try it with a few combinations, on some practice materials. Free helps, but use a Fine Finish Tip for Lacquers and Polyurethanes....and employ a rapid "Duster" technique.

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post #1586 of 1587 Old 09-16-2014, 09:56 PM
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Quote:
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It might be acceptable using the right Tip after the paint is thinned. I can't really say for certain, I have never used one or had anyone else refer to such.

One can only try it with a few combinations, on some practice materials. Free helps, but use a Fine Finish Tip for Lacquers and Polyurethanes....and employ a rapid "Duster" technique.
Thanks once again. Perhaps I'll be the victim er tester with it then. I'll see what I can come up with for tips for this model, then test spray with a similar viscosity medium to see how it does. Looks like this painter ham fisted the hell out of it. the tip was cross threaded on , galling the aluminum threads, but I managed to dress them so the tip threads tight again. He also left a good amount of material to dry in the inner workings so it wouldn't spray at all. Got it spraying , but it's going to take a bit to clear all the gunk. Once shes running on all cylinders I'll report on the spray so others will know if this unit is suitable or worthless for this application. at least I'll be able to use it for the fence I'm building

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post #1587 of 1587 Old Today, 12:27 AM
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Could MississippiMan maybe update the first post to include paints that are UK/Ireland equivalent of the paints required.

Over this side if the water getting the liquidtex paints is no problem but sourcing the other materials can be a bit difficult as we are not sure if they would be suitable.

Just an idea to help our European members

These Products are no problem to source its the rest that has me scratching my head

100ml - filtered/distilled water for rinsing color components from utensils
50ml - Liquitex Basics - Napthol Crimson Red
25ml - Liquitex Basics - Phthalocyanine Green
14ml - Liquitex Basics - UltraMarine Blue
10ml - Liquitex Basics - Cadmium Yellow - Deep Hue

I've seen waterbased varnish & acrylic emulsion been mentioned in the forum but if MM had 5 minutes to spare and could link some products that would be usable it would be much appreciated.

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