The Official Silver Fire V.2 Thread. - Page 59 - AVS Forum
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post #1741 of 1770 Old 11-26-2014, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roju22 View Post
Great ! Thanks for the link. So if I get grey screen now and later decide to paint it, itshould be ok? I mean, from what I read everybody spray on white base color. If SF is transparent, will the screen be darker because of grey base color?
Yes.
Try to make sure it's a grey screen with a smooth surface if possible.

Spraying first with a true primer might be recommended to make sure the paint sticks to the screen well. The base color won't make a big difference though, SF is surprisingly opaque after the proper amount of coats. It's only 17%-24% transparent.

Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.

Last edited by Ftoast; 11-26-2014 at 04:53 PM.
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post #1742 of 1770 Old 11-27-2014, 02:41 AM
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Does negative gain(0.8) of the screen that will be painted affect the overall gain?
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post #1743 of 1770 Old 11-27-2014, 05:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roju22 View Post
Does negative gain(0.8) of the screen that will be painted affect the overall gain?
After the proper amount of coats of SF it shouldn't make much difference AND 0.8gain is so close to 1.0gain that there shouldn't be any visible difference at all for your case.

Even a black and white striped pattern shouldn't show through if you use primer before painting, so that'd remove any worry..though your surface shouldn't show through either way.

Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.

Last edited by Ftoast; 11-27-2014 at 05:49 AM.
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post #1744 of 1770 Old 11-27-2014, 06:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Oops....

Gotta fo some cirrecting here.

Silver Fire is more Translucent than stated. The whole premise behind Silver Fire is based upon it's having both a reflective surface that is as thin as possible as well as a under lying mildly reflective & opaque layer that stops further absorption and conserves a percentage of the brighter elements if the image.

A Gray sustrate will most definitely reduce overall gain, as well as affect the White levels, working toward negating the very advantages of the SF application taken as a whole.

There is a reason SF is designed as it is...and that means doing a build as specified. Every variable of SF is based around a balance between absobtion and reflection.

So...the correct response to Roku22 is:
Yes....you'd have to Prime a Gray surface before applying SF if you are looking to reap full advantage. Better to just start out with a White Screen and paint SF directly onto it from the start. You saw the results I achieved on the thread Ftoast linked to (btw..thanks) so why do it any other way?

BTW...I am not aware of any Tab Tensioned screens that cone with High Contrast Gray surfaces. All are Matte White.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

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post #1745 of 1770 Old 11-28-2014, 09:54 AM
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I need a inceilling screen and in Slovenia I can only get Screenline screen white or high contrast grey. I'm not too sure in my diy abilities so i would like to try out the grey screen first. My living room is all white and I know white would work.
My plan is to paint the screen if I will not be satisfied with it. I would have to order stuff from USA. I can only buy liquitex basics colors here.
So I'm gathering information about everything. The screen looks amazing and if I had any chance to use a fixed screen that would be my first choice.
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post #1746 of 1770 Old 11-28-2014, 10:03 AM
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Would using silver fire 2.0 make the gain higher? I was thinking about 4.0 or 5.0 but considering the grey base.. sorry for my noob questions.
Primary is white that I would paint on gray first?
The grey screen I'm about to get has minimal texture.
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post #1747 of 1770 Old 11-28-2014, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roju22 View Post
Would using silver fire 2.0 make the gain higher? I was thinking about 4.0 or 5.0 but considering the grey base.. sorry for my noob questions.
Primary is white that I would paint on gray first?
The grey screen I'm about to get has minimal texture.
Yes, use white primer first.
The SF2, 4 or 5 are all about the same peak gain (it does lower,but it's so slight that it's basically imperceptible)..they mostly become progressively darker looking surfaces when there's no projected image and progressively better at fighting ambient light as the number climbs higher (more colorant).

The white primer should start you in a good place whatever the color of the screen may originally be..after that, you'll just want to choose a SF version based on how much light is in the room and how bright your projector is VS how large the screen will be.
A smaller screen or brighter projector will allow the darkest versions of SF. The darker SF can fight more ambient light while showing a good image.

Because most retractable screens aren't all that large and because most newer projectors are plenty bright, you have a lot of freedom for going darker (higher number) if you'll be watching with a lot of light. If it'll mostly be lights-off duty, choosing a version 2 or 3 might be best.
How much light do you expect to have in the room while watching?

Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
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post #1748 of 1770 Old 11-28-2014, 01:54 PM
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Screening will be 16:9, 101 inch diagonal and projector is benq 1075. It's w1070+ in europe. It's an open space floor plan. So behind the screen is kitchen and dinning room. There will always be some light behind the wall where the screen is. Only when we will watch 3d movies I will make it dark. So as u see it's not even close to be ideal ambient for projector but I still want the best it can be.
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post #1749 of 1770 Old 11-28-2014, 01:56 PM
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Oh and the photo of the place of the screen. It will drop over my tv. I still have to move my speakers little further apart.
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post #1750 of 1770 Old 11-28-2014, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Oops....
Gotta fo some cirrecting here.
Silver Fire is more Translucent than stated.

BTW...I am not aware of any Tab Tensioned screens that cone with High Contrast Gray surfaces. All are Matte White.
I said it would make a small difference and that SF is only between 17%-24% translucent. It's a heavily white-pigmented mix with very little translucent material used. Did I screw up the math somewhere?

The firehawk/greyhawk screens are available TT and practically a staple of every bestbuy magnolia. The cheapo silverstar? startbright? ..and most/all the elite-screen materials are also available TT. Size selection is weak with many though.
That 0.8gain that is likely to be used is itself a high-contrast grey surface. A matte 0.8gain screen would be an N9 white..to get even a light grey up to 0.8 requires a 50%gain increase or more.

Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
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post #1751 of 1770 Old 11-28-2014, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roju22 View Post
Oh and the photo of the place of the screen. It will drop over my tv. I still have to move my speakers little further apart.
As long as you aren't fighting the sun from the window on the right (get a thick curtain for that thing), you'll be in really good shape.
My family room is layer out almost the exact same way and with the same white-surfaces everywhere. I can easily get away with it on a 110" white screen and a projector that's 1/4 as bright.

Your slightly smaller screen, much brighter PJ, and light-rejecting paint should give a spectacular performance.
I think you'll be very pleased.

Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
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post #1752 of 1770 Old 11-28-2014, 02:13 PM
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So with all the info I have you I think I should go for sf 5.0? Yes the window has blinds on the outside, but I will be using projector at night, Tv during day
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post #1753 of 1770 Old 11-28-2014, 09:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Ftoast, Although we do often suggest Carl's DIY material, please refrain from suggesting actual Mfg Screen materials on this DIY screen forum.
BTW...Both the Poly and water content creates a much more translucent mix than you realize, Math notwithstanding....and that trait is also complimented by the overall thin surface coating even 6-8 duster coats lays down.

Roju22........I suggest you do a 4.0 mix since the SF v2.5 w/ Rustoleum Silver starts out darker than the older version.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #1754 of 1770 Old 11-29-2014, 07:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Ftoast, Although we do often suggest Carl's DIY material, please refrain from suggesting actual Mfg Screen materials on this DIY screen forum.
BTW...Both the Poly and water content creates a much more translucent mix than you realize, Math notwithstanding....and that trait is also complimented by the overall thin surface coating even 6-8 duster coats lays down.

Roju22........I suggest you do a 4.0 mix since the SF v2.5 w/ Rustoleum Silver starts out darker than the older version.
I wasn't suggesting any Mfg screen. You said you weren't presently aware of any high-contrast grey TT screens, so I was listing some of the first that came to mind because they certainly exist.

They don't though, it's all in the application. The closest thing to translucency is the tiny gaps and thing spots between paint. The water evaporates and has no effect beyond thinning, and the poly is a very small percentage while the rest of the mix is very opaque.

I'm not saying it completely stops bleedthrough, as I did specifically say the backing having a gain of 0.8 instead of 1.0 should make a small difference. I'm just saying it only happens because the application is so thin.
It's important to understand how and why it works like it does..otherwise it spreads misinformation that may cause future experimenters problems.

The application VS true translucency is why light-fusion works without creating a blurry mess!

Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
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post #1755 of 1770 Old 12-03-2014, 03:07 PM
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Hi wondering if someone can help i would like to try silverfire im from uk and have some questions

Hi im really interested in the silverfire screen, now at the moment i have tried blackwidow ultra that mhi helped me with, and im really happy with the results. but me being always wanting to improve i have the urge to try out silverfire to see if get any improvements. but the paints are to come by in the uk. below is the paints i have managed to find in the uk.

can you tell me if the below links are the right components for me?

(Colorant Components)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Liquitex-Bas.../dp/B0012F1S6M
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Liquitex-Bas...ocyanine+Green
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Liquitex-BAS...traMarine+Blue
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Liquitex-BAS...low+-+Deep+Hue


(Viscosity Components)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B...AGC3SF0K4BQCPS


(Reflective Base Components)
http://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/liquitex...ld/577012-1012
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Liquitex-BAS.../dp/B000KNJDL4

on the reflective base components i have missed the following..

Rustoleum Metallic Accents – White Pearl* See link below ** .......20 21 22 23 24
Rustoleum Metallic Accents Sterling Silver *** AMAZON ........20 21 22 23 24
Behr 1850 UPW Flat Home Depot ....

now will i still need the above 3? are there any alternitives?

and am i correct that this will be the exact steps to paint the screen......

1. mix the colourant components separate?
2. mix the (Viscosity Components) and (Reflective Base Components) together?
3. mix the above 1 and 2 together?
use spray paint and spray on the white pvc board.

now in terms of what shade to go for im not sure. currently i have black widow ultra with grey steel 1 and AAA mixed and i am very happy with the black levels the only downside is the gain is below 0.8 which for me is too dark specially for 3d movies which i watch a lot.

my room has white walls and ceilings and my projector is optoma hd25e which has 2800 lumens and i have a screen size of 92 inch from 9 feet away.

now after reading most of the silverfire thread i understand no matter what shade i choose i will always have a gain of 1.0? is this correct? this is the only reason i want to try silverfire is if i can have the balck level of BWU or better and have increased gain from 0.8 to 1.0 or higher.
this is really important for me the gain i need my screen to be bright but also watchable during the day and have deep blacks during the night.

now if someone can help me out and give me some info would be appreciated. thanks.

also any screenshots of silver in action specially during the day.
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post #1756 of 1770 Old 12-10-2014, 02:12 PM
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New guy alert. I have read for 2 days to understand the best approach for my theater screen.
- Basement theater. 40' x 14'. 1/2 is the games (ping pong/foosball table) and 1/2 the movie side.
- 2 windows. Low ambient light. We almost always watch in the evenings. Even football usually PVR'd and watched from 7pm-2am.
- Epson 5030UB

Options I'm considering:
White or stock gray w/nap roller: $50 (e.g. Behr Silver Screen)
Silver Fire: $310 (includes $150 for tools I don't have)

So, is Silver Fire so cool I will cry with joy? Because I might be crying when my wife discovers I spend her Christmas money on my screen.
Thanks for all your contributions. Looking forward to movie time.


Tools
------------------------
Sprayer (Wagoner) $101.92
Ultra-fine spray tip $24.97
Nylon strainer $5.00
Hormax Squirrel mixer (5-gal) $16.00
2-gal bucket: $1.50 (Home depot) $1.50
1-gal bucket: $1.50 (Home depot) $1.50
small paint container
measuring device (oz?)

Tools total $150.89

Paint
------------------------
Base
Rustoleum Metallic Accents White Pearl (32oz) $48.84
Rustoleum Metallic Accents Sterling Silver (32oz) $47.56
Behr 1850 UPW Flat Home Depot (8oz) $6.00
Liquitex Basics Gold Micheals (4-oz) $6.00

Viscocity
16 oz. Rustoleum's Ultimate Polyurethane Matte Finish (water based) $12.00
24 - 36 oz. Distilled or Filtered water

Color
100ml - filtered/distilled water for rinsing color components from utensils
50ml - Liquitex Basics - Napthol Crimson Red (2.5oz): $8.00
25ml - Liquitex Basics - Phthalocyanine Green (4oz): $9.00
14ml - Liquitex Basics - UltraMarine Blue (4.25oz): $14.25
10ml - Liquitex Basics - Cadmium Yellow - Deep Hue (2.5oz): $7.37

Paint total cost: $159.02

Total cost: $309.91
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post #1757 of 1770 Old 12-11-2014, 07:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Get the Earlex Sprayer....it's the better choice
http://www.lowes.com/pd_570350-97-HV...r|1&facetInfo=
..........along with a 1.0 Needle Kit direct from Earlex.

And absolutely, you'll cry tears of abject delight as you revel in the incredibly brilliant and dynamic imagery that spreads out before your dazzled orbs.

........and it'll wow ya too. ***

Here is an acceptable alternative to having to purchase a 5-Gallon size Squirrel Cage Mixer to mix up a 1 gallon mix.
http://www.neobits.com/hyde_tools_43..._p4974195.html

Recently I have completed sizable SF 2.5 screen projects, one for a 5030, whose owner stated that it certainly looked as good as any 4K display he'd seen, and another for a Sony 4K 600ES, whose owner was likewise more than satisfied he's chosen that route instead of a Stewart ST130.

Just keep in touch, ask questions before you commit / start up, and above all else, don't rush things.

*** BTW...I have never said much of anything against Silver Screen, but the difference between it and Silver Fire doesn't bear any comparison on any level, performance -wise.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

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post #1758 of 1770 Old 12-11-2014, 06:55 PM
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You had me at "4k". I'm in. Ordered what I could online -- will arrive in about a week.

> Just keep in touch, ask questions before you commit...
Brace yourself. Here are a few from a novice:

0. If these questions should go elsewhere in the forum, please advise.
1. Size: I plan to create a black felt-wrapped 3" frame. In another thread there was a question about painting the whole wall (not my plan) and you responded with an idea for adjustable sides. I recall you saying it was "easy" but I can't find that thread at the moment. Have you seen others do this to switch between screen dimensions?
2. Should I tape the exact rectangle and try to paint in the lines or overlap a bit into the area covered by the frame?
3. To putty or not to putty. I know _flat_ is the goal but I'm not sure I can improve on the wall with my drywall skillz. Do you strongly recommend this?
4. I have a bunch of Zinsser primer from other projects. I've seen Kilz mentioned. Is there a strong preference? How many coats on my already spray-painted tan/beige wall?
5. How do you guys measure your colors? I've got kitchen measuring spoons and converting ml to tsp. (14ml is like one of those tricky math story problems. "Honey, have you seen the 0.473396 tsp?")
7. In the Viscocity recipe it says: "24 - 36 oz. Distilled or Filtered water" 24-36...based on what?
8. In the color recipe it says: "100ml - filtered/distilled water for rinsing color components from utensils". Is this just a carton to swish the measuring spoons around in between colors? Or do I also pour this into the mix?
9. Drying time: I'm also building a platform next week in same room. How many coats do I apply, how long after painting can I make dust again?
10. Recommendation for SF for my low ambient-light basement theater? I'm planning on 2.0. I'm paranoid about it being too dark or I might go 3.0.
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post #1759 of 1770 Old 12-11-2014, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chefebe View Post
> Just keep in touch, ask questions before you commit...
Brace yourself. Here are a few from a novice:
Wait for MM to fill in gaps and fine-tune this with corrections, but I'll try to start thinning this list.

1. You can use black curtains (or even darker light-absorbing fabrics on curtain rods) for infinitely adjustable side-masks easily enough. Top/bottom adjustable masks can be a little trickier..I used black fabric-wrapped 10ft steel poles to basically make my own black roller-blinds and put a few small screws into the wall to make pre-defined stopping points.

I've also seen people use solid panels that roll into different positions, but the curtains are a little harder to mess up and much less expensive.

2. You'll want to tape-off any surrounding areas you want to keep unpainted and then apply the actual paint in large sweeps that begin and end well outside of the lines..this helps keep your speed consistent whereas trying to stay inside lines will make you end up with too much paint near the edges.

3. It is very important to get a smooth surface for any reflective screen. If you really doubt your flat/smoothing abilities AND can't borrow/bribe someone with more experience to help, you might consider getting a large smooth substrate or panel to attach onto the wall and paint that. It'll add to the overall costs, but give you a perfectly flat/smooth starting surface right from the start.

4. The important thing is that you prime..the brand, less so important. MM can tell you if what you have is extra thick/thin compared to the Killz, and you may need either some extra thinning or extra coats, but it should be fine.
Usually 3 light coats are recommended, and you should lightly sand the entire surface again before the last coat.

5. Spoons should work though some where using measuring syringes I've heard, but the important thing is to make sure you aren't leaving enough mess on your tools to be throwing off the amounts. The water listed for rinsing is kept for the colorant mix (both for thinning and for using the ingredients that would otherwise get washed down the drain).
If you're having trouble with the conversion, you can scale the amounts to better suite your measuring increments as long as the ratios stay the same..I'm only talking about the colorant mix here.

For example: a teaspoon is 5ml..
20tsp water
10tsp red
5tsp green
A hair less than 3tsp blue
2tsp yellow
----------------------------------
Mix that all together and you'll have 8oz of colorant component.

7. You're aiming for an overall consistency similar to thin tomato soup using the filter to ultimately judge before spraying. Start low and add in small increments until you get the target thickness/viscosity.

8. Oops, already covered this in number 5.. I also just realized your list has no number 6.

9. 6-7Coats is recommended..it's better to have more thin coats than fewer thick ones for the sake of the finish. You can get drying time down to 30minutes for the first few coats with fans but the later coats will need more time and it's really better to not rush this.

10. All the versions from 1-4 are said to have over 1.0gain, so you've got plenty of leeway. If your room will be stuck with light-colored walls then a darker SF would be best (3-4) whereas a 2 or less could perform very well in a darker-colored room with a bit more lightcontrol.

Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.

Last edited by Ftoast; 12-12-2014 at 10:53 AM.
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post #1760 of 1770 Old 12-12-2014, 09:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Ftoast did a splendid job above....only a few clarifications and adjustments are needed. However I must dash out to start a Spandex build (Appointment already made...) so it will be just a bot later....like this PM.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

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post #1761 of 1770 Old 12-13-2014, 11:16 PM
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Thanks for all the details Ftoast! I found all the materials and tools thus far except my local HD didn't have Behr UPW Flat Enamel 1850, but did have Behr UPW Flat 1050, which I purchased. I found a couple of threads discussing the difference. Will 1050 be OK? I don't want to compromise.
Thanks again.
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post #1762 of 1770 Old 12-14-2014, 06:19 AM
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The change in Behr numbers is likely just because every paint company is calling everything paint+primer in one, so they need a new number designation for it. It doesn't actually change anything as far as I've heard, it's only marketing.

Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
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post #1763 of 1770 Old 12-15-2014, 06:30 AM
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Well, its been awhile since I was on the forum, but I finally had the time over the weekend to finally paint my theater wall with Silver Fire 2.5 this weekend. It was a fairly easy process ounce you have all the right equipment. However, with this being my first attempt ever trying something like this, I will have to admit that I did have somewhat of a learning curve to overcome. Spent probably two full days reading the forum to make sure I understood the mixture before proceeding very cautiously.

I painted a Wall 25' x 8' (L x W) directly onto drywall. I did this in order to make it look like there is no screen in the room when the projector is not in use. Drywall was sanded then primed then sanded again prior to painting. I made sure to pay special attention to the area of the projected image (110"). Then I prepared the paint booth for spraying. So far no issues.

Now rather then mixing up a single batch, I mixed up two batches for what I was planning on doing. I actually had a lengthy conversation with MM prior to doing any painting. I found that using a food scall worked great for my measurements. I could switch between ml, g, oz and fl oz. I was also able to zero it out after each new additive was added. This made it easy to get fairly accurate measurements (notice I said fairly accurate, I may have been over just a little here and there, but most were spot on). I ended up with about 1 and 1/2 gallons. Looked great during the mixing, well, it at least looked like other photos I saw in the forums. Colorant definitely looks purple/black prior to adding to the base and viscosity components. So far so good.

I used a Graco Sprayer (already had) with 413 tip recommended by MM. Prior to painting wall, I tested my spray pattern on a few pieces of cardboard. Thought I had it down, but I could have used a little more practice, but still am not complaining. Now I did eight duster coats. Everything was fine until last coat. Some coats went on a little thicker then it probably should of, but not nearly as if I was regularly painting. After the seventh coat the wall looked great. I used a regular fan in between coats. Dried in about 45-60 min. After the seventh coat I looked in the busket and thought I had enough for one last coat. I was wrong. When my sprayer runs dry it spits out one last thick stream. Almost like toothpaste being put in a tooth brush (well, not that bad). This happened right in the middle of my screen location. Foolishly I thought I could wipe it off with paper towel to the last dry coat and be good to go. I was so wrong, only made it worse. What to do. I had to make another batch, but I didn't have enough ingredients left for another batch. However, I did have enough for 1/5 of the batch. So I mixed it up and spayed over the damaged area. Applied two coats. Thankfully this fixed the bad area. Well, 90% fix I would say. I know were the area is and can see a little difference if I look hard enough. My wife couldn't tell. Rather then mess with it any more, I called it quits to let dry. Ill have to wait and see how noticeable it is ounce I install the projector (Epson 5030).

In this last picture. the wall is still a little wet in a few spot. Ill post new photo ounce completely dry. not sure you can tell a big difference between duster coats. I should have taken photos of the entire wall rather then close up shots.

Will post results once I get projector installed.

FYI. This mix sure will bring out every imperfection in your wall. I thought I had this sanded to a glass finish, but ounce I painted. I was surprised of all the spots that jumped out ay me. Thankfully this was more at the edges and not in the center ware I am projecting.

Last edited by 2138N3BSNK; 12-15-2014 at 06:34 AM. Reason: Photos did not upload
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post #1764 of 1770 Old 12-15-2014, 06:36 AM
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Some pics of process. Did not attach correctly in previous post.
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post #1765 of 1770 Old Yesterday, 06:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2138N3BSNK View Post
Some pics of process. Did not attach correctly in previous post.
2138N3BSNK you did a great job! Like you, I would like to paint a SF 4.0 on a large wall of my living room . I find really incredible SF . The only thing holding me is the aspect of metalized paint .
I struggle to realize the appearance of the wall on the pictures.
I want a quality screen, but discreet.
2138N3BSNK I wanted to get feedback from you on the final rendering your wall. Does that give a very metalized effect on the wall? and if so, is it really shocking?

thank you very much
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post #1766 of 1770 Old Yesterday, 06:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Pandaviral,

Silver Fire drys to an almost Flat appearance. It is very much "Silvery" looking in color, but does not look "metallic" until intense light is shown onto it from a sideways orientation.

Silver Fire v2.5 4.0
is a darker, almost Gray-hued Silver, and exhibits even less of the overt reflectivtity of the lighter shades below it.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

http://www.invisiblestereo.com
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post #1767 of 1770 Old Yesterday, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pandaviril View Post
2138N3BSNK you did a great job! Like you, I would like to paint a SF 4.0 on a large wall of my living room . I find really incredible SF . The only thing holding me is the aspect of metalized paint .
I struggle to realize the appearance of the wall on the pictures.
I want a quality screen, but discreet.
2138N3BSNK I wanted to get feedback from you on the final rendering your wall. Does that give a very metalized effect on the wall? and if so, is it really shocking?

thank you very much
Pandaviril

Just to be clear. The mixture I made was SilverFire V2.5 with a 2.5 mixture of colorant (between 2.0 and 3.0). The overall look of the finished product in full light after a day of letting it dry is just what MM says. It has a very flat appearance. Even when I stand about four feet away from the wall it appears flat. Now the closer you get the more you can see the reflective base. You can easily see the reflective base when you are about one foot away, but still very subtly with full lights. This side of the basement is controlled with 3 zones of light, all on dimmers. Now when I play with the lighting you can see a little more of the reflective base. You can really see the reflective base when I turn all the lights off, but turn on the light on the other side of the basement (furthest away from this wall). This is ware I can really see the benefit of this mix. I can definitely see the benefits in this situation. Makes me want to install the projector immediately and do some testing. However, if I did that the basement would probably not get done for another year. Will be wrapping everything up in the next couple of weeks. Then I will test and post photos of the results.

In the meantime. I will take some more photos over the next couple of days in different lighting situations to post so you might get a better idea of what I am talking about. Oh and the one thing I did notice is that when spaying, it does look almost as if your painting the wall silver, but don't worry, ounce all duster coats have been laid down and it is dry, the overall appearance is flat.
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post #1768 of 1770 Old Yesterday, 10:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank ya , Capn'

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

http://www.invisiblestereo.com
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post #1769 of 1770 Unread Today, 12:12 AM
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I have a quick question about silverfire.... would it be a total waste of time spraying it onto BOC? or best to go with a flatest surface possible?
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post #1770 of 1770 Unread Today, 02:54 AM
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MississippiMan, 2138N3BSNK,

Thank you for your information and availability.

Your details my great help to realize the rendering. I wait to see your photos.

Thank you.
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