The Official Silver Fire V.2 Thread. - Page 63 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1861 of 1876 Old 01-28-2015, 04:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi!


..............again.

JKA

First, I suggest you get the w1080st, go for a 110" diagonal 16:9, and hang the PJ so the Lens is at 5' 8"

The arse end of the PJ should just clear the Fan Blades, or fall just below them. The Fan, rather than the Can lights, is your biggest logistical hurdle.

Oh yeah....go with a 100" screen and 5' 2" throw and you'll see 40 Foot Lambert off Silver Fire v2.5 3.0

That sir, should let most any light short of direct Sunlight exist and still you'll have a watchable image. Shades pulled down 1/2 makes the most sense though......and the front Can Light lamps changed over to Spot lamps. Still want to employ the Dimmer, but you should get away with "less" dimming that you would otherwise.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #1862 of 1876 Old 01-28-2015, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Hi!


..............again.

JKA

First, I suggest you get the w1080st, go for a 110" diagonal 16:9, and hang the PJ so the Lens is at 5' 8"

The arse end of the PJ should just clear the Fan Blades, or fall just below them. The Fan, rather than the Can lights, is your biggest logistical hurdle.

Oh yeah....go with a 100" screen and 5' 2" throw and you'll see 40 Foot Lambert off Silver Fire v2.5 3.0

That sir, should let most any light short of direct Sunlight exist and still you'll have a watchable image. Shades pulled down 1/2 makes the most sense though......and the front Can Light lamps changed over to Spot lamps. Still want to employ the Dimmer, but you should get away with "less" dimming that you would otherwise.
Thank you for the suggestions, sir Unfortunately my wife is pretty adamant that the PJ must be mounted behind the fan The lowest part of the fan blades are 8" from the ceiling. So I believe as long as the lens sits at 9", I should be able to get the image past the fan. Does that sound reasonable? I can send more pictures from other angles if that might help you analyze my potential setup and give you more ideas. I'd welcome your expertise! (I'm a complete noob at this)

Do you think my efforts will be futile if I can't do the short throw PJ for the brighter image? :\

My wife and I agreed that 106" is the biggest we can do, and with the Benq 1070, the furthest we can put the PJ is 10'11" (about 3 feet from the wall), if we were to do a 100" screen, we'd have to put the PJ even closer :\

Oh and I went to PM you about ordering the sintra order from Laird Plastics, but then realized I'm required to have 15 posts before I can PM

Thanks again, MM!
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post #1863 of 1876 Old 01-29-2015, 10:42 AM
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My wife and I have been testing screen materials for a week now with more on the way and so far, we aren't impressed by any of them. We've been projecting on to standard painted walls (same color as the rest of the room) for the past 8 years and have been quite happy with the results. We just upgraded out projector to the Sony HW40ES and feel that we are missing out on some of the contrast that the projector is capable of.

There is ambient light 75% of the time is some form (window to the right of the screen, recessed ceiling lights, lights on in the room behind the main seating area, etc. along with the walls being painted the color of an overcast sky (grey with a high of light blue) and the ceiling being bright white.

Of all the purchased screens we've tested so far, the painted wall has won out so far for both dark viewing and ambient light viewing. I'm starting to wonder if there's an off-the-shelf screen sub $1500 that would work.

Anyway, I'm very interested in the Silver Fire DIY screen. I skimmed through a few of the posts (didn't read much in depth past the first two pages). I'd like to have a roughly 110" 16:9 screen. What are some of the recommended materials that are easily attainable for the backing? I saw a thin expanded PVC material that was mentioned at one point, but couldn't find a local supplier that had anything close to the size I need.

I will have to make this outside of the house and bring it in later as spraying paint inside isn't an option with the recent remodel we've done.

Last edited by SageFly; 01-29-2015 at 12:09 PM.
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post #1864 of 1876 Old 01-29-2015, 11:44 AM
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SageFly
Would there be a way you could reorient that room so the ambient light comes from the side or front instead of the back?
Ambient-light rejecting screens work by filtering/redirecting/absorbing/etc. light that is hitting the screen from a different angle or starting point than the projector.
If light is washing out the screen from the back of the room (where your projector vaguely is located) a screen can't fight that light without also fighting the projector's light/image.

You can get or make screens that are better at fighting light coming from a place near-ish the projector, but not without suffering a very narrow viewing-cone because the screen will need a narrower viewing-cone to reject light within a narrower distance from the projector.

If you can rotate the orientation of your room, you'll likely end up with much better results in your image VS light quest.

Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
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post #1865 of 1876 Old 01-29-2015, 12:11 PM
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I mistyped my original post and the window is actually to the right of the screen, about halfway between the screen and projector (12' throw).

We had blackout shades mounted before we remodeled and may have to get them again. The occasional room lighting can't be changed though as we have a baby that we need to keep an eye on while watching.
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post #1866 of 1876 Old Yesterday, 01:48 PM
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Hey MM, I got your PM and sent you an e-mail. Just wanted to make sure you received it.

No problem if you've been busy, just wanted to make sure it went through
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post #1867 of 1876 Old Yesterday, 01:58 PM - Thread Starter
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I got it...well noticed it this am.....just been out in the field all day.

Look for your response in full this PM

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

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post #1868 of 1876 Old Yesterday, 02:02 PM - Thread Starter
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SageFly,

You have several options available "substrate" wise. Where exactly in upstate NY do you live. I might be able to source the PVC for you.

I would not worry overmuch....we have your ambient light issues well in hand. And a correctly done Silver Fire ranks up with the very best supposed "4K" screens as it will have gain, contrast enhancement, great resistance to ambient light, and a ultra smooth, featureless surface that will keep your HD content pristine looking.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

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post #1869 of 1876 Unread Yesterday, 05:09 PM
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Hey MM,

I have one other question (which may also help others). When you spray how do you determine your adjustment on the spray gun? On this gun I'm using (the $50 one) there is a adjustment in the back. When i sprayed it was almost all the way out...not much further before it would have twisted all the way off. Is that OK? Should i have been spraying with a different setting? There is a lot of room to turn it...so I'm wondering if that has an effect on how the paint gets sprayed.
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post #1870 of 1876 Unread Yesterday, 06:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by merkaba View Post
Hey MM,

I have one other question (which may also help others). When you spray how do you determine your adjustment on the spray gun? On this gun I'm using (the $50 one) there is a adjustment in the back. When i sprayed it was almost all the way out...not much further before it would have twisted all the way off. Is that OK? Should i have been spraying with a different setting? There is a lot of room to turn it...so I'm wondering if that has an effect on how the paint gets sprayed.
Usually, such controls at the rear are of the Fluid Flow Rate variety. Then again it could be air flow.

Most air flow controls do it simply by restricting the amount of pull back you can do on the trigger.

In all such Electric HLVP spray applications where one is Dusting the screen with very diluted paint, a fully opened air & fluid control...if they exist...is essential. The size of the Needle dictates the density of the pattern...pressure determines the dispersion. Small orifice, high pressure, directional air diffusion all lead to a 12" high pattern that is at once a fine mist....but also a very wet mix.

The way the initial 1st-2nd-3rd Dusters go on, they always leave behind a freckled look on the substrate. But each Duster builds upon the former, filling in the spaces. The paint may look bumpy when first applied, and retain that look out to the 4th coat, but by the 6th and 7th coats, coverage becomes more apparent.

The worst thing to do is to rush between coats and spray before the prior coat is dry. A perfect spay effort can quickly go to Orange Peel....or worse, a slide.

Second worst would be to hasten the number of coats process and put up a slower pass to increase coverage. Runs or severe sags. Well...maybe that's "the worst". On the end, the absolute worst thing to do is to "Do First, Ask Questions Later"....joined at the hip with "Not Following Directions".

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

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post #1871 of 1876 Unread Yesterday, 06:45 PM
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SageFly,

You have several options available "substrate" wise. Where exactly in upstate NY do you live. I might be able to source the PVC for you.
I live just outside of Corning. Elmira is pretty close, Binghamton and Ithaca aren't too far and Rochester is about 1.5hrs away.

Which version of Silver Fire would you recommend?

Matt
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post #1872 of 1876 Unread Yesterday, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by merkaba View Post
Hey MM,

I have one other question (which may also help others). When you spray how do you determine your adjustment on the spray gun? On this gun I'm using (the $50 one) there is a adjustment in the back. When i sprayed it was almost all the way out...not much further before it would have twisted all the way off. Is that OK? Should i have been spraying with a different setting? There is a lot of room to turn it...so I'm wondering if that has an effect on how the paint gets sprayed.
i have something to help others... maybe best not to spray silverfire straight of the bat. Practice on some sheets of something smooth and cheap and cheaper paint of course. Maybe mm nows of some cheap paints of same flow as silverfire.

this might be of interest merkaba
http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/set-up-hvlp.html how to set up spray gun

I have read this thread and maybe missed it but am wondering what the components do it silverfire.. eg.. what does the white pearl in the mix do? what does the polyurethane do? If this has been said before just in that direction.
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post #1873 of 1876 Unread Yesterday, 07:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Laird Plastics has a location in Rochester, so that would be your Huckleberry.

1640 Emerson St
Rochester, NY 14606
Phone:800-873-8412

Let me know if you want me to price out anything for you.
I can tweak 'em

For your situation, Silver Fire v2.5 3.0

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

http://www.invisiblestereo.com
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post #1874 of 1876 Unread Today, 02:36 AM
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Hi

Has anyone done a like for like comparison with other screen structures such as mdf or dry lining board etc?

We can get fomex plastics in UK which is what sign makers use , would this be a good substitute for the sintra board?

Also is it possible to just buy a budget retracting screen and apply the paint to that ..?

Also MM, could I just check you got my email I bet you are well busy and haven't got to me yet but just thought best I check.

Thanks all .
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post #1875 of 1876 Unread Today, 06:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi

Has anyone done a like for like comparison with other screen structures such as mdf or dry lining board etc?
Lots of different people have tried 'em all. 1st consideration is the smoothness of the surface, followed closely by the permeability of the surface (needs sealing?) Weight and rigidity vs thickness come next. But for many, cost is top consideration, while for others it's simply a matter of local availability.

Quote:
We can get fomex plastics in UK which is what sign makers use , would this be a good substitute for the sintra board?
Probably the same thing...just a different Brand. Ask if it is "Expanded PVC Sheeting"....that is the true determination.

Quote:
Also is it possible to just buy a budget retracting screen and apply the paint to that ..?
Painting Onto A 106" Tab Tensioned Screen with Silver Fire v2.5 4.0

Not exactly a "budget" retractable at $599.00 (cost at the time) but it was a Matte White, and 2+ years on it's doing fine.I have alsp done non-Tab Tensioned Electric screens up to 135" diagonal. 1 of 'em in San Diego done in 2006 is still going strong.

Quote:
Also MM, could I just check you got my email I bet you are well busy and haven't got to me yet but just thought best I check.

Thanks all .
Got it. Response to follow soon....after Coffee.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #1876 of 1876 Unread Today, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Laird Plastics has a location in Rochester, so that would be your Huckleberry.

1640 Emerson St
Rochester, NY 14606
Phone:800-873-8412

Let me know if you want me to price out anything for you.
I can tweak 'em

For your situation, Silver Fire v2.5 3.0
Excellent, thank you MM. I will give them a call on Monday to find out what it'll cost.
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