The Official Silver Fire V.2 Thread. - Page 68 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2011 of 2028 Old 03-25-2015, 11:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by createch2 View Post
Any recommendation for the mesh width of the strainer?
Hopefully you can find the Nylon "Sock" style, 1 Gallon Can Size.

If not, a Sheer Nylon Stocking works well. (...leave your Lady's Fish Net Stockings alone !!! )

Most "Cone" strainers are either too "big" hole-wise....or much too fine a grid.

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post #2012 of 2028 Old 03-25-2015, 12:48 PM
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Unfortunately, the link from the thread post #1 to the strainers is broken. So I have no comparision what I have to look for.
Reason for asking is that I fear to filter out the silver particles if the strainer is too narrow. I am not in the socks business, and I think even there are big differences?
I was in a shop for professional painter today and they have different mesh widths.
Lets take this link:
http://www.lenntech.de/Produkte/Eato...bag/index.html

the holes are 100microns (equals 0.1mm). Too small ? Too big?

I appreciate your fast and helpful replies a lot !
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post #2013 of 2028 Old 03-25-2015, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by createch2 View Post
Unfortunately, the link from the thread post #1 to the strainers is broken. So I have no comparision what I have to look for.
Reason for asking is that I fear to filter out the silver particles if the strainer is too narrow. I am not in the socks business, and I think even there are big differences?
I was in a shop for professional painter today and they have different mesh widths.
Lets take this link:
http://www.lenntech.de/Produkte/Eato...bag/index.html

the holes are 100microns (equals 0.1mm). Too small ? Too big?

I appreciate your fast and helpful replies a lot !
I have the same question. The link several pages back doesn't work anymore so I am trying to source my own from hardware/paint stores over here in NZ, it's the last thing I need to buy and I am not having much luck. I did find something but I think it is too fine.
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post #2014 of 2028 Old 03-25-2015, 04:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by createch2 View Post
Unfortunately, the link from the thread post #1 to the strainers is broken. So I have no comparision what I have to look for.
Reason for asking is that I fear to filter out the silver particles if the strainer is too narrow. I am not in the socks business, and I think even there are big differences?
I was in a shop for professional painter today and they have different mesh widths.
Lets take this link:
http://www.lenntech.de/Produkte/Eato...bag/index.html

the holes are 100microns (equals 0.1mm). Too small ? Too big?

I appreciate your fast and helpful replies a lot !
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse7 View Post
I have the same question. The link several pages back doesn't work anymore so I am trying to source my own from hardware/paint stores over here in NZ, it's the last thing I need to buy and I am not having much luck. I did find something but I think it is too fine.
As long as the Strainer Bag is a Nylon Mesh type such as linked to and pictured below, it will be just fine to use.
Sock....Bag.....hey.....it's whatever you wanna call it as long as it looks like the one pictured.


http://www.amazon.com/Gallon-SuperTu...KK6NZ6VPX8V581


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post #2015 of 2028 Old 03-25-2015, 11:15 PM
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Getting ready to "pain" eh? Let's hope it's not gonna be THAT bad !

Better to cover the overhang to prevent any spray dust from trying to stick. Thin Plastic is cheap. Elbow grease comes at a premium.

And the advice to spread thin plastic over the adjacent areas is well given. While they say "Little or no over spray" what they mean is no horrible amount of "wet" spray going where your not aiming. The nature of a HVLP gun is to fully atomize as much of the paint with air as possible...but do so at the lowest possible pressure. So that means that what you do get is a dry dust that still can spread out and collect on surfaces.

That is why they call them "HVLP" (High Volume / Low Pressure)

Using some really thin 0.7 mil 9x12 plastic sheets (2 @ $2.99 ) you can pretty much cover the world, and when do simply wad it all up in a small Ball and toss it all away.

Lastly, pull the sides out to at least 4'-5' off the wall. Myself, using Thumbtacks, I always hang a "drape" from Ceiling to floor at the rear that also overlaps the sides. Even with all that there will be some dust intrusion outside the "tent" so that is why covering Tables and Furniture simply decreases the clean up at the end.
Decided to play it safe and made a tent. See attached pic .

Thanks for the info on the mesh sock. Finally found some after checking several stores.
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post #2016 of 2028 Old 03-25-2015, 11:19 PM
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I thought I had everything all good to go. Then I red a post about mixing the paint with a squirrel cage. I only have one of these in the attachment.

Will that do the job good enough? I checked everywhere and we can't get those cage mixers anywhere in NZ. I could take the cans to my local paint shop and they can shake them up.
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post #2017 of 2028 Old Yesterday, 02:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse7 View Post
Decided to play it safe and made a tent. See attached pic .

Thanks for the info on the mesh sock. Finally found some after checking several stores.
Looks similar to what I'm doing for spray . Not sealed off as I want ventilation, but all the important stuff in the garage is covered.

(first photo is before sintra repairs [was pretty bad, but seems promising/smooth now after many compound applications]). Temporary location for paint.



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post #2018 of 2028 Old Yesterday, 06:47 AM - Thread Starter
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I thought I had everything all good to go. Then I red a post about mixing the paint with a squirrel cage. I only have one of these in the attachment.

Will that do the job good enough? I checked everywhere and we can't get those cage mixers anywhere in NZ. I could take the cans to my local paint shop and they can shake them up.
That kind of mixing tool is called a "Whip" and is designed for mixing heavier bodied paints. It will work for Silver Fire but throughly mixing everything will take a lot longer....because with that type of tool, you need to run it at a pretty high speed. That is something you realy do not want to do with Silver Fire as doing such will introduce a lot of Air Bubbles.

The most important aspect in all the mixing is getting the water content thoroughly blended. You have two options here...and perhaps a mixture of both would be best.

  • First mix the Viscosity Mix
  • Dilute the desired Colorant amount with a equal amount of the Viscosity Mix. Set aside.
  • Take 1/4 of the Viscosity mix and add it to the Dulux in a small enough container that your Mixing tool can displace and stir the mixture well. Run the Mixing tool at a medium speed.
  • Take the rest of the Viscosity Mix and add each of the Reflective components...one at a time, pouring them slowly and directly down into to center area of the mixing tool's impellers. Run the Mixing tool at a medium speed. Then add the diluted Colorant mix.
  • Add the Viscosity / Dulux mix into the Viscosity / Reflective, mixing it in the same manner. Mix the 'ell out of it at medium speed for as long as is reasonable.
  • Strain the paint into a clean can to remove excess Bubbles and any solids (clumps , dirt, debris)
If you have the mixed paint it a can / container that can be tightly sealed, keep the lid on it and during the painting process, every couple coats or so, between reloading the paint Gun, repeatedly pick it up and swish / shake it up for 30 seconds at a time to keep it well bended.

Shopping around usually can locate at least a few variations....but on "The Island of Middle Earth" I realize that selection is limited, and importing time consuming if not expensive.




By the way Jessie7, that Tent will do well to prevent a lot of sprayed dust from getting out, but that open top will still let enough out that you should still cover any furniture you don't want to have to wipe down to remove such dust.

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post #2019 of 2028 Old Yesterday, 07:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Medisinyl,

It would be best if you add at least 3"-4" additional "side edging" around the Sintra to avoid uneven spray distribution. You need to have a area where you can run off a even edge (no abrupt drop off) and the drop down the height of your fist and then run back onto the material. A Drop Off creates a swirling called "Vortex-ing" that makes the edges receive a light coating. Also you certainly do NOT want to do your Row drop on the Sintra as that will quickly build up and you WILL get runs like crazy.

I often just simply tape up a plastic skirt attached to the edges. If your planning to add Trim over the edges of the Sintra, (...and seeing thise screws seems to indicate you are...) simply tape plastic or Cardboard "wings" around the edges that give you a surface to run off onto.

BTW...the Top and Bottom edges are all the more important because you must run 1/2 your pattern height off the edge down the entire length of the screen to get a even lay of paint.

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post #2020 of 2028 Old Yesterday, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
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Medisinyl,

It would be best if you add at least 3"-4" additional "side edging" around the Sintra to avoid uneven spray distribution. You need to have a area where you can run off a even edge (no abrupt drop off) and the drop down the height of your fist and then run back onto the material. A Drop Off creates a swirling called "Vortex-ing" that makes the edges receive a light coating. Also you certainly do NOT want to do your Row drop on the Sintra as that will quickly build up and you WILL get runs like crazy.

I often just simply tape up a plastic skirt attached to the edges. If your planning to add Trim over the edges of the Sintra, (...and seeing thise screws seems to indicate you are...) simply tape plastic or Cardboard "wings" around the edges that give you a surface to run off onto.

BTW...the Top and Bottom edges are all the more important because you must run 1/2 your pattern height off the edge down the entire length of the screen to get a even lay of paint.
Great advice, thank you. Cardboard/plastic sounds simple enough (you're correct to assume I intend to trim over the screws.
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post #2021 of 2028 Old Yesterday, 07:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Great advice, thank you. Cardboard/plastic sounds simple enough (you're correct to assume I intend to trim over the screws.
Glad I caught you in time.

Unfortunately sometimes that is not the case.

While it may seem to be a small enough consideration, it can in fact be a serious set back...and for those who are not planning to cover the edges with trim, a "Drop Dead, Absolute necessity".

In your case, carrying a even coating to a point that resides under the Trim will assure you of a perfect looking screen edge.

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post #2022 of 2028 Old Yesterday, 01:26 PM
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That kind of mixing tool is called a "Whip" and is designed for mixing heavier bodied paints. It will work for Silver Fire but throughly mixing everything will take a lot longer....because with that type of tool, you need to run it at a pretty high speed. That is something you realy do not want to do with Silver Fire as doing such will introduce a lot of Air Bubbles.

The most important aspect in all the mixing is getting the water content thoroughly blended. You have two options here...and perhaps a mixture of both would be best.

  • First mix the Viscosity Mix
  • Dilute the desired Colorant amount with a equal amount of the Viscosity Mix. Set aside.
  • Take 1/4 of the Viscosity mix and add it to the Dulux in a small enough container that your Mixing tool can displace and stir the mixture well. Run the Mixing tool at a medium speed.
  • Take the rest of the Viscosity Mix and add each of the Reflective components...one at a time, pouring them slowly and directly down into to center area of the mixing tool's impellers. Run the Mixing tool at a medium speed. Then add the diluted Colorant mix.
  • Add the Viscosity / Dulux mix into the Viscosity / Reflective, mixing it in the same manner. Mix the 'ell out of it at medium speed for as long as is reasonable.
  • Strain the paint into a clean can to remove excess Bubbles and any solids (clumps , dirt, debris)
If you have the mixed paint it a can / container that can be tightly sealed, keep the lid on it and during the painting process, every couple coats or so, between reloading the paint Gun, repeatedly pick it up and swish / shake it up for 30 seconds at a time to keep it well bended.

Shopping around usually can locate at least a few variations....but on "The Island of Middle Earth" I realize that selection is limited, and importing time consuming if not expensive.




By the way Jessie7, that Tent will do well to prevent a lot of sprayed dust from getting out, but that open top will still let enough out that you should still cover any furniture you don't want to have to wipe down to remove such dust.
Tent is fully enclosed. No gap at the top might be hard to see from photo.

I found a couple of variations on the mixer and is a few more shops to check. Not quite like those you posted but they may do a better job. My paint is already all pre mixed ready to go. It has just been sitting a long time so I need to stir it up. Then add water to get the viscosity right. I am planning to give you a call I just need to figure out the timing.

I might have to put it off another week if I can't find something suitable to mix it without buying from overseas.

Last edited by Jesse7; Yesterday at 01:35 PM.
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post #2023 of 2028 Old Yesterday, 02:54 PM - Thread Starter
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I am planning to give you a call I just need to figure out the timing.

I might have to put it off another week if I can't find something suitable to mix it without buying from overseas. My paint is already all pre mixed ready to go. It has just been sitting a long time so I need to stir it up.

OK...now I "get'cha....I gotcha "Stone" cold.......

You might want to reconsider that "thinnin' " business because I'm'a bettin' the Mix is alread at the viscosity desired.
What's really criminal is that I could'a sent you a Mixer Tool had we considered that. But...since the mix is alread "pre-mixed" and just the water content separated, the tools you can access...plus some shaking, should get the job done.

Save a penny or 1000.....You should Skype me. Send me a invite or email me your handle.

BTW, you are 18 hours ahead of me. It's 4:45 pm Thursday at the time I type this, and 10:45 am Friday in NZ

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post #2024 of 2028 Old Yesterday, 03:30 PM
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OK...now I "get'cha....I gotcha "Stone" cold.......

You might want to reconsider that "thinnin' " business because I'm'a bettin' the Mix is alread at the viscosity desired.
What's really criminal is that I could'a sent you a Mixer Tool had we considered that. But...since the mix is alread "pre-mixed" and just the water content separated, the tools you can access...plus some shaking, should get the job done.

Save a penny or 1000.....You should Skype me. Send me a invite or email me your handle.

BTW, you are 18 hours ahead of me. It's 4:45 pm Thursday at the time I type this, and 10:45 am Friday in NZ
Cool. Will like you give you a skype tomorrow afternoon your time. Yer I was wondering if it was already thinned out or not I was hoping it was . emailed you my skype.

Thanks heaps. I didn't know mixing was a "thing" until way too late, having to piece everything together from a 200 post thread is hard . But think I have found something that will do the trick.
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Just went to the paint shop to get some primer. They have two kinds.
- Dulux 1 step, Primer sealer and undercoat all in one and
- Dulux prepcoat Primercryl, acrylic primer undercoat.

Which do I pick or are both ok? I am painting onto an already nicely painted house wall.

To thin it I slowly add water to around 20% water or to the viscosity required?

Last edited by Jesse7; Yesterday at 10:33 PM.
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post #2026 of 2028 Old Today, 05:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Just went to the paint shop to get some primer. They have two kinds.
- Dulux 1 step, Primer sealer and undercoat all in one and
- Dulux prepcoat Primercryl, acrylic primer undercoat.

Which do I pick or are both ok? I am painting onto an already nicely painted house wall.
Just Primer....always "Water Based" of course.

Quote:
To thin it I slowly add water to around 20% water or to the viscosity required?
Since Primers come in varying thicknesses, start with 20% water and add more if needed to reach desired viscosity to allow free flow characteristics through the Gun.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #2027 of 2028 Old Today, 06:16 AM
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MM: Since I have already primer and grey color on my screen (that I will sand before next coats), do I need to apply primer again? Or can I spray 2 coats of the Dulux (I purchased a lot more than I need for the mix). If yes, should I add 10% Water to the mix or more?

By the way, is there a proper way to measure the viscosity of the mix for the wagner detail head? I have seen some "viscosity tester" in the shop but wasnt sure about the use.
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post #2028 of 2028 Old Today, 08:43 AM - Thread Starter
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MM: Since I have already primer and grey color on my screen (that I will sand before next coats), do I need to apply primer again? Or can I spray 2 coats of the Dulux (I purchased a lot more than I need for the mix). If yes, should I add 10% Water to the mix or more?

By the way, is there a proper way to measure the viscosity of the mix for the wagner detail head? I have seen some "viscosity tester" in the shop but wasnt sure about the use.
The Dulux White will serve you well....but absolutely will need to be thinned enough....(10% is too little, 25% more likely ) and it will take a bit longer to dry between Duster coats that will Primer.

Having a pure white background is essential because it helps retain gain that might otherwise be lost through absorption into the translucent SF coat...and in doing so it also serves to retain the brightness of Whites....all without decreasing the Black Levels SF is so noted for.

As far as determining the proper viscosity (...lack thereof really....) it is a simple 2 step process.
  1. You mix Filtered or Distilled Water in small amounts until you see the paint pour off the mixing tool in a stream. Not slide....not ooze...not drip off in clumps. The observed consistency should be that of Tomato Soup (w/no Crackers)
  2. When you the pour the paint into the Nylon Straining Net, the paint should barely pool in the bottom and then continue to run through the net at a steady pace, equal to your pour rate...which should be at a speed equal to that which you pour Milk into a Glass.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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