The Official Silver Fire V.2 Thread. - Page 70 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2071 of 2151 Old 04-09-2015, 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Unless the surface feels or looks to have noticeable texture, sanding at this point would be redundant, and at the least require 2-3 more dusters to restore a perfectly even surface. Would it hurt? No... and done right it would make it marginally smoother. Just might be more work than necessary.

As far as the lighter area, you can feather in some additional paint by starting the Gun at a right angle to the area and just before the edge of the area, and then turn it toward the screen surface while moving across the area at the normal pace and distance. Then as you reach the opposite side of the area, twist you wrist to the other direction, drop the small amount required for the necessary overlap, do the twist back toward the screen and go back the other direction. Just remember, applying too little and doing it a few times is better than doing too much.

The object being playing a modest game of equalization over only the affected area, Afterward, and after the area has completely dried, you follow up with another such effort if needed, and at the end, a complete Duster over the entire Screen.

I use the same technique when doing a spot repair as well, but sometimes I use a little Prevail Bottle Sprayer. But only when I must do a repair in an existing finished area.
Thanks for the advice. I just finished my tenth coat and I don't think I can see any white areas. But I do think that would mean there is slightly better coverage in other area's even though it all now has 100% coverage. Will this show up when viewing? I can feel a very light texture and there is some small minor raised bumps ( like very small). I will give it a close inspect tomorrow in the daylight.

I don't mind doing another 3 coats, I have enough paint left for 3-5 light dusters. It is the sanding I am not looking forward too .
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post #2072 of 2151 Old 04-09-2015, 05:53 AM - Thread Starter
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If the look is one of even coverage it's extremely doubtful you'd see any difference.

Finish sanding is exactly that. The use of a broad fine grit Sanding surface (9" x 3" x 1" sponge preferably) and sanding by using very broad, sweeping strokes....about 6 (3 up/3 down) strokes per area. You do the six strokes very lightly...just a kiss of pressure, then move slightly to one side and repeat...so on & so on across the entire screen width. On a screen your size, I would concentrate on going across from left to right (..or vice versa) and doing the top 5/8ths of the screen, go all the way across. Then go back the other direction doing the Bottom up to just past the point your first row's bottom sweeps stopped.

Then I do a very light 3 strokes per vertical row across the center. With so little texture present, your not trying to remove much material, just smooth the surface further by gently knocking down only the highest points of the tiny bumps. You don;'t want to scrub sand at all as that will create darker spots where you really reduced the bumps, and therein require thicker Dusters.

Then, you dust off the screen and apply very quick dusters, with 70% overlap. 2...perhaps 3 at most. Try to have 4-5 oz. of the Mix left for any potential need for spot repairs.

Honestly, the finish sanding is something I always do....because I love a silky, almost glass-like finish. Of course I do em all the time and what i find as being "out of hand" easy and normal, others might find to be drudgery. The single most biggest advantage of a soothest coat...besides no visiable texture, is that when the paint fully cures out, the surface is much less prone to collecting dust and dirt, and resists pressed on grime and stains. The smoother, harder surface also allows for the use of a slightly damp cotton cloth to very gently wipe away inadvertent marks or slightly sticky debris such as Fly poop. (...a very real issue at times...)

But for goodness sake, do NOT EVER swat or smoosh a Fly. Mosquito, or any juicy Bug. Protein such as bug goo or blood is the most difficult material to clean off, but if it does happen, an immediate light soaking and a gentle "wipe away" with the dampened cloth is going to have a better chance of working on a smoother screen surface.

When I paint, and with intuitively knowing just how much paint to / can be Dusted per goat depending upon my mix's condition, I usually have no more than 7 coats.....5 before sanding, and 2 finish Dusters. Those with less / no experience, absolutely it's better that their Dusters go on even thinner....that's the whole idea behind Dusters. So 8 or 10 coats would be / is not uncalled for.
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post #2073 of 2151 Old 04-09-2015, 09:59 AM
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Update

Here is a couple Pics. The first one of the corner is after I did my first duster coat. The second pic is after my second coat, third pic third coat etc etc. Getting pretty exciting seeing I think I can finish most of it tonight now that I have the technique down.
Those are some excellent photos. It shows the progression as the duster layers build up over time. I think a lot of people get intimidated or think things have gone horribly wrong after the first duster or two. This shows that the technique works, just practice on some scrap first, and have trust in the outcome.


Snow is mostly gone, and starting to get the itch. Now to revive my screen build.

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post #2074 of 2151 Old 04-09-2015, 12:02 PM
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I am currently in the spraying process and I have also some 1st coat pictures to share.
I personally think the wrinkles are too big and too much, so I decreased the amount of paint during the 2nd coat. 2nd coat (no photos yet) looks better / finer and similar to my primer coats.
3rd coat to be done in some minutes, lets see how it improves.
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post #2075 of 2151 Old 04-09-2015, 12:49 PM
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2nd and 3rd. 3rd looks more dirty, maybe because I had ignored to clean the spray tip. Its done now and I hope it gets better for the next 2 coats.
May plan is to call it a day after coat #5 and do a light sanding tomorrow after everything dried completely.
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post #2076 of 2151 Old 04-09-2015, 01:44 PM
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4th done. Gets better with a clean tip.
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post #2077 of 2151 Old 04-09-2015, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Finish sanding is exactly that. The use of a broad fine grit Sanding surface (9" x 3" x 1" sponge preferably) and sanding by using very broad, sweeping strokes....about 6 (3 up/3 down) strokes per area. Y

Honestly, the finish sanding is something I always do....because I love a silky, almost glass-like finish. Of course I do em all the time and what i find as being "out of hand" easy and normal, others might find to be drudgery.

When I paint, and with intuitively knowing just how much paint to / can be Dusted per goat depending upon my mix's condition, I usually have no more than 7 coats.....5 before sanding, and 2 finish Dusters. Those with less / no experience, absolutely it's better that their Dusters go on even thinner....that's the whole idea behind Dusters. So 8 or 10 coats would be / is not uncalled for.
I have sponges but they are the smaller hand size ones from 3M. Cant seem to source the bigger ones, so it will just take me longer. I have 120 150 220 and 300 grit, which would be ideal?

Can you explain the 3up and 3 down thing, I'm having a hard time picturing the technique. I get the 3 strokes across the middle thing. Looking at my results this morning I am incredibly happy. There is not much texture. The only thing is it looks like little bits of sand in slight peaks are present now and then. So I think a sand would be worth doing.

I am aiming for the best result. I mean I have put so much time and effort into getting this right, a little drudgery is a walk in the park. And actually at this stage I am enjoying every second. When I first started I was hating it because I was so nervous I was doing it wrong.

I think I have 10 coats purely because I was being over cautious due to the mistakes I made early on. So I was spraying very fast and at a further distance than 12" just to make sure I didn't mess it up again. I also probably wasn't consistent with my 60% overlap in the earlier coats.

I think now I could easily paint a screen with much better consistency and confidence. The other reason I did 8-10 is because I didn't have full coverage yet.

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post #2078 of 2151 Old 04-09-2015, 02:34 PM
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I am currently in the spraying process and I have also some 1st coat pictures to share.
I personally think the wrinkles are too big and too much, so I decreased the amount of paint during the 2nd coat. 2nd coat (no photos yet) looks better / finer and similar to my primer coats.
3rd coat to be done in some minutes, lets see how it improves.
I certainly am not an expert and maybe your pics do not show it very well but to me it looks like you are not going fast enough and not overlapping your passes. Have a look at my first pass coat pic. I think mine is probably slightly too fast but the point is it is very consistent and even. I probably did around 40 or 50% overlap but I think I needed to overlap a bit more.

Is looking much better at 2-4. Are you taking the pictures while the paint is wet? You have some large splatters I would try to get a fan if you can. I had some big blogs like you do when doing my primer coats (not so much with the silver fire). And the fan really made a huge difference in shrinking and flattinging them out. I also used a heat lamp directed at the fan later on and that help out too.
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post #2079 of 2151 Old 04-09-2015, 02:47 PM
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Jesse7, I think it gets better and better each pass. I am not that concerned about my results since I know the process from 10 coats dulux prime.
Pics are taken wet, it looks better after 45min drying. Lets see what tomorrow brings.
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post #2080 of 2151 Old 04-09-2015, 03:42 PM
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Jesse7, I think it gets better and better each pass. I am not that concerned about my results since I know the process from 10 coats dulux prime.
Pics are taken wet, it looks better after 45min drying. Lets see what tomorrow brings.
It is looking good at coat 5 just hard to judge when the paint is wet. I honestly didn't learn much from the 10 coats of dulux other than how to deal with the blobs and technique, because I started with a white wall and sprayed on white in a low light environment so I couldn't see what I was doing, looks like you hard a much better open painting environment that I do. I learned the most in my first 4 coats of silver fire where I could really see what I was doing. Mostly see what I was doing wrong .

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post #2081 of 2151 Old 04-09-2015, 04:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Jesse7, I think it gets better and better each pass. I am not that concerned about my results since I know the process from 10 coats dulux prime.
Pics are taken wet, it looks better after 45min drying. Lets see what tomorrow brings.
Yes sir....that looks really good.

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post #2082 of 2151 Old 04-09-2015, 04:32 PM - Thread Starter
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I have sponges but they are the smaller hand size ones from 3M. Cant seem to source the bigger ones, so it will just take me longer. I have 120 150 220 and 300 grit, which would be ideal?
Using 150 Grit with a very light touch is best.

Quote:
Can you explain the 3up and 3 down thing, I'm having a hard time picturing the technique. I get the 3 strokes across the middle thing. Looking at my results this morning I am incredibly happy. There is not much texture. The only thing is it looks like little bits of sand in slight peaks are present now and then. So I think a sand would be worth doing.
6 Vertical strokes ....one going up to just past the top of the Screen, then returning down to the starting point. (...hopefully close to or at the middle of the screen...) Do this 3x for a total of 3 up & 3 down before you move slightly to the side and repeat.

Even taking in the use of smaller sponges, you should be able to sand the entire screen surface pretty quickly and without much fatigue, but then again, you do have a lot of acreage to cover. With the smaller sponges you probably can't do the really long (tall) strokes as effectively, but all the same, try to cover as much distance with each stroke you can as this helps prevent over-sanding any particular area.

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I am aiming for the best result. I mean I have put so much time and effort into getting this right, a little drudgery is a walk in the park. And actually at this stage I am enjoying every second. When I first started I was hating it because I was so nervous I was doing it wrong.
There is nothing quite like being proud of what you see yourself accomplishing come together before you. And building up confidence in the doing is a real moral booster.

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I think I have 10 coats purely because I was being over cautious due to the mistakes I made early on. So I was spraying very fast and at a further distance than 12" just to make sure I didn't mess it up again. I also probably wasn't consistent with my 60% overlap in the earlier coats.

I think now I could easily paint a screen with much better consistency and confidence. The other reason I did 8-10 is because I didn't have full coverage yet.
Yes...with practice you can push a bit more paint onto the surface with confidence. But then again, the way you went about it really affords the best chance for a near perfect finish.

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post #2083 of 2151 Old 04-09-2015, 05:42 PM
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Sanding was pretty scary. Even barely settling my hand on the sponge I got all these small dark smudges all over the screen. I was panicking a bit but just went with it as per advice. They wipe off without any effort when I dusted down the surface after sanding.

I also got a handful of peaks that came off to reveal white underneath the size of a pin prick. Before sanding they looked like peaks with a bit of sand at the center.

I think they are tiny dry air bubbles. Just did one of two final duster coats and I got a few more of those bubbles so hopefully they disappear.

I only have enough paint left for one good duster and then perhaps one more with tiny bit left over if I am lucky. So it is getting down to pretty touch and go considering in the day light I could still see the odd bit of white where I didnt get 100% coverage. I might skip a third duster and just dust the problem area's if they still exist after my next duster.

BTW hope I am not spamming too much, I am mostly just posting so if others can read my experiences and hopefully pickup a few things.
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post #2084 of 2151 Old 04-09-2015, 06:40 PM
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Finished

Just did my final coat. Would probably like to do one more duster coat to make it three but I am down to my last 200ml and I don't think it will go through the gun nicely. Already I was starting to get small bubbles land on the screen which look like a grain of sand stuck on the screen when dry.

After letting it dry and testing it with my PJ I am both impressed and a bit let down with my results.

The main reason for me painting this screen was to allow us to watch TV in a non light controlled room. I think that has been achieved though I need to do more testing it is looking really promising.

Now the bad news, I can see the texture of the paint mostly on white surfaces when there is panning. I really only tested one movie for 20 seconds. At this stage it's ok but I think I will need to do some work on it which will be difficult seeing i'm out of paint and getting more could be an issue.

Not much I can do right now. Going to do a bunch of testing and see how it looks. Could be some major sanding required which might be where my downfall was on the primer coats.
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post #2085 of 2151 Old 04-10-2015, 12:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Putting up too many layers of paint can create issues, as can applying paint when subsequent layers are not fully dry. As to if either or both have anything to do with the air bubbles I cannot say for certain but on the left image the texture of the lighter area is more in keeping with what is desired / expected. Accumulated paint coats over undesired texture is the hardest thing to eliminate in latter stages.

It might well be that light sanding earlier on in the process would have lessened that. And perhaps a bit too much emphasis was put on practice priming, and that led to trapped air. From your description the finish coats did not appear to be too heavy, but there were a lot of them.

The sanding was probably essential, just started a bit later than needed so there was less paint remaining to recover.

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post #2086 of 2151 Old 04-10-2015, 01:26 AM
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Putting up too many layers of paint can create issues, as can applying paint when subsequent layers are not fully dry. As to if either or both have anything to do with the air bubbles I cannot say for certain but on the left image the texture of the lighter area is more in keeping with what is desired / expected. Accumulated paint coats over undesired texture is the hardest thing to eliminate in latter stages.

It might well be that light sanding earlier on in the process would have lessened that. And perhaps a bit too much emphasis was put on practice priming, and that led to trapped air. From your description the finish coats did not appear to be too heavy, but there were a lot of them.

The sanding was probably essential, just started a bit later than needed so there was less paint remaining to recover.
I think too many averagely done layers of primer. I couldn't see what I was doing. I did sand down on the 8th out of 10th primer coat, but probably coulda gone further. The air bubbles are not an issue I only saw maybe 2 or three bubbles per layer and most disappeared, it was only when I was super low on paint I got 15 bubbles on the final coat. They were tiny bubbles smaller than a pin head. I don't think they had any bearing on the final result. The bubbles come from mixing the paint and are shot out of the gun if I let the paint go too low.

I doubt it has anything to do with drying times as I used a fan and heat lamp and it is still pretty hot here. And I always waited 45+ minutes.

Comparing it side by side to my original wall which was very good for movies in the dark. The original wall is much better quality wise. The silver fire is alot better with blacks, but the whites are kinda grey I guess. Is alot better with lights on with the silver fire.

So question is, what do I have to do to fix it? A good sand and a handful more coats?
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post #2087 of 2151 Old 04-10-2015, 06:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Well ok...that was a missing bit of info. Running the paint too low in the cup pulls in air that is injected into the paint along the Feeder tube instead of being mixed and atomized with air at the Nozzle. That will cause air bubbles and sometimes surging.

I always fill the Cup to capacity, and run it to no less than 1" depth before refilling. Well...usually. At times I might let it get a bit lower, but after one has done several coats you should get a feel for how much paint is used per coat, and if it has borderline enough you either do a very light, quicker duster coat, or you add a bit more paint before starting up again.

Another item that interacts is how level you keep the Gun. Especially when one is stretching to reach higher rows, or bending down to do lower rows, often the Gun gets tilted, and if the paint is low, that can result in the siphon tube coming out of the paint.

Yes...there will always be a noticeable difference between a pure white surface referenced directly beside a Grey...even Silver Fire. If a comparable shade of Grey to one created with Silver Fire is shown, there would be the same result, with the stock Grey showing even more attenuated Whites.

The only Grey shaded Screens that can show almost no White attenuation are truly high gain screens and those types sacrifice other things like observable sparklies, greatly reduced viewing cones, etc. to allow for ambient light resistance.

Without making a direct reference in a darkened room setting, your screen should look very satisfying as far as the dynamics between Lighter and darker elements, with no discernible loss of quality in Whites. The eyes make the adjustment easily if in fact there is no overt or drastic lessening of Whites.

All of which still leaves dealing with your existing "Bubbly" issues. I would not risk doing any more sanding and not having enough paint to effectively cover the entire area with sufficient layers or paint. To help, I'd be glad to provide a full Quart of SF/NC at N/C (except shipping) and that should allow for a minimum of 4 full normal Dusters. You could do some thorough sanding and then completely cover over the sanded area.

Let me know via PM and I'll move quickly to help out if you want me to. Your too close to being there to haul up short now.

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post #2088 of 2151 Old 04-10-2015, 11:06 AM
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Jesse7, your experience teached me not to skip necessary steps like sanding. I have finished now my 7th coat and all I can say is wow ! It looks pretty good. Similar to the Dulux coats. No bubbles no big wrinkles, good coverage.
Maybe I'll stop after the 8th coat to minimize the risk of insects on the screen and all other murphy things that can happen.
For the files my next coating pictures:
#5 dry
#5 sanded detail
#6 dry
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post #2089 of 2151 Old 04-10-2015, 11:52 AM
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Honestly, after seeing the my coat #7 in dry condition, I see no point to make an 8th coat and have the risk that something goes wrong.
I'll leave it as it is, the surface is pretty good in my eyes (maybe I have low expectations, coming from a grey paint rolled wooden screen).
I have enough paint remaining to rebuild if my 2 yrs old son hurt the screen.

Any comments to the attached photos? (sorry for upside down, thats an iPhone issue)
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post #2090 of 2151 Old 04-11-2015, 12:56 AM
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Jesse7, your experience teached me not to skip necessary steps like sanding. I have finished now my 7th coat and all I can say is wow ! It looks pretty good. Similar to the Dulux coats. No bubbles no big wrinkles, good coverage.
Maybe I'll stop after the 8th coat to minimize the risk of insects on the screen and all other murphy things that can happen.
For the files my next coating pictures:
#5 dry
#5 sanded detail
#6 dry
Honestly looks pretty awesome to me.

I didn't skip any steps. I just did a really bad disaster first primer coat (too close and too slow) and thought I gave it a really good sand but had not. Then my later primer coats required too many coats to cover the issues from the 1st coat. I did not sand the primer again until all the damage was hidden. And again I did not sand enough, mostly because I didn't know what I was looking for. I should have done alot more sanding before starting on the silver fire. But I went by other pics of the primer texture I saw on this forum and they looked similar to mine. But reality was mine was pretty bad :P.

My Silver Fire result is actually not too terrible, my wife could not see what I could see but she her eyes are not that great haha. I want that smooth finish like what yours looks like. Thanks for the pics esp of the one with the sanding. I can still watch stuff on it no worries, just it is no where near as good a quality as it was before I started in some important aspects. Other aspects it is much better already.

I am going to fix it!!!!
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post #2091 of 2151 Old 04-11-2015, 06:08 AM
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Finished.
Performance with closed window shades is stunning. Details are good. Viewing cone is also perfect wide.
Daylight performance is so/so but I can live with it.
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post #2092 of 2151 Old 04-11-2015, 07:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Finished.
Performance with closed window shades is stunning. Details are good. Viewing cone is also perfect wide.
Daylight performance is so/so but I can live with it.
Is that not bright directed outside light I see washing across the screen? Personally, under such conditions, I feel the screen is pulling off some incredible performance.

When other DIY or Mfg screen's examples are shown, you never see the room so brightly lit, nor is there ever such outside light in such a close proximity to the screen.

........unless the screenies are mine...then yeah.

It would seem that all you would have to do to effect a big improve-3'ment is to pull the Curtain closest to the right edge of the screen closed about 2' - 3' and much of the wash-out along the bottom edge would be gone.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #2093 of 2151 Old 04-11-2015, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
When other DIY or Mfg screen's examples are shown, you never see the room so brightly lit, nor is there ever such outside light in such a close proximity to the screen.

........unless the screenies are mine...then yeah.
*cough-joemannn-hff*

..not knocking the screen or the results, just saying the above quoted part is a bit stretched.

Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
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post #2094 of 2151 Old 04-12-2015, 06:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
*cough-joemannn-hff*

..not knocking the screen or the results, just saying the above quoted part is a bit stretched.
OK then...show me one similarly sized DIY example that is in a room as brightly lit, with direct outside light coming from close to one side. And make sure it shows both light and dark detail and varied contrast, while doing so on a screen that does not simply favor Black levels alone via attenuation.

And be sure any such shot is taken from the distances the 1st and 4th shot were taken from, and that they do indeed show as much overall light within the room.

It should be noted that the observed performance is coming from a screen surface that is both considerably lighter in shade than any of the purported DIY Black Screens, that any loss of off-axis viewing angle is virtually non existent...and it all is derived from paint.

Granted, there are some very good DIY apps on the way or in the works, but so far I haven't seen one that is as wholly balanced as the above, that's all I'm sayin'. (...although Stephen77's is damnable close....)

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #2095 of 2151 Old 04-12-2015, 10:40 AM
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Bickering removed. You are NOT discussing "trustworthiness", you are discussing a particular DIY screen application. Kindly stay on that topic.

Thanks,
Garry
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post #2096 of 2151 Old 04-12-2015, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
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OK then...show me one similarly sized DIY example that is in a room as brightly lit, with direct outside light coming from close to one side. And make sure it shows both light and dark detail and varied contrast, while doing so on a screen that does not simply favor Black levels alone via attenuation.

And be sure any such shot is taken from the distances the 1st and 4th shot were taken from, and that they do indeed show as much overall light within the room.

It should be noted that the observed performance is coming from a screen surface that is both considerably lighter in shade than any of the purported DIY Black Screens, that any loss of off-axis viewing angle is virtually non existent...and it all is derived from paint.

Granted, there are some very good DIY apps on the way or in the works, but so far I haven't seen one that is as wholly balanced as the above, that's all I'm sayin'. (...although Stephen77's is damnable close....)


This screen below is an ~N6 slightly below 1.0gain, 125" diagonal (the SF is zoomed in to about 95"diagonal in those shots, I believe), with a very wide viewing-cone. The room doesn't have the length to shoot from much farther, but the ceiling and walls show a lot of light from the wide-open windows.





Once again, I'm not knocking the SF screen's performance (it is quite a bit higher on-axis gain than the lower shots and should provide a 3X contrast retention compared to the 2X CR-retention of the lower screenshots), just saying there are and have been some pretty similar shots taken of other screens.

Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.

Last edited by Ftoast; 04-12-2015 at 03:27 PM.
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post #2097 of 2151 Old 04-12-2015, 04:55 PM - Thread Starter
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I agree that even though there is a good deal of wash-out on the right side, the posted shots look pretty good. It would be nice to know what PJ is being used. Createch2 uses a European Panny PT 6000u. I don't know his Throw, or settings, but at best his screen would be getting 16 fl under New lamp / Mid Throw specs.

The SF screen was not zoomed in....it was showing 16:9 format within a 2.39:1 screen
edited in: (oops...silly me. I guess that does amount to the lens memory zooming in the image height to fit within the 2.39:1 Image. )

To quote James T. Kirk;
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http://www.invisiblestereo.com

Last edited by MississippiMan; 04-12-2015 at 05:02 PM.
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post #2098 of 2151 Old 04-12-2015, 06:56 PM
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What 4x8-ish board material is currently recommended? I'm close to a Home Depot for pickup.
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post #2099 of 2151 Old 04-12-2015, 09:44 PM - Thread Starter
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What 4x8-ish board material is currently recommended? I'm close to a Home Depot for pickup.
Oh there you are.....

Look to your Thread for an answer.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #2100 of 2151 Old 04-12-2015, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
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I agree that even though there is a good deal of wash-out on the right side, the posted shots look pretty good. It would be nice to know what PJ is being used. Createch2 uses a European Panny PT 6000u. I don't know his Throw, or settings, but at best his screen would be getting 16 fl under New lamp / Mid Throw specs.

The SF screen was not zoomed in....it was showing 16:9 format within a 2.39:1 screen
edited in: (oops...silly me. I guess that does amount to the lens memory zooming in the image height to fit within the 2.39:1 Image. )
The EU Panny PT6000 is similar to US PT8000. PJ is almost new, purchased in December.
About zooming in: The projected picture in 16:9 Format (not zoomed in / native PJ Format) is brighter than 2.35:1 (zoomed in to move out the black bars).

I played with the Pannys picture presets and found that during daylight view the "dynamic" mode delivers the best brightness (photos above are taken in "normal" mode.

I am really happy with the chosen SF 2.5 / 2 .

Now I have to move to the next project step: Automatic screen side masking (16:9 / 2.35:1) controlled by the Panny.
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