The Official Silver Fire V.2 Thread. - Page 76 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 09-15-2015, 12:14 AM - Thread Starter
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It would be very unusual for there to be small areas where paint "would not" adhere, unless those areas were coated with (splotched) with oil or some other contaminant. If those areas are on / along the edges then that can mean the drop off at the edge might be the cause.

Either way, adding paint by syringe / brush to a sprayed surface is not advisable. Feathering in 2-3 ultra light "spot coats" over the affected areas, following up with 1-2 ultra light Dusters across the entire surface is best. If you have just reached a point where the Lamp's light has been reduced to a pin point in some areas and invisible in others, then adding those very light extra layers will not affect performance.

Go easy now on the sanding.....do so only if you get any coarse surface texture. (sand papery feel)

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Old 09-16-2015, 09:05 AM
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Painting again

A year ago I painted RS-MaxxMudd Retro v.2.1 and my results were "just OK". Too much orange peel and the screen is too sparkley and the whites are washed out.

I blaim the orange peel on the gun. I used a Wagner Flexio 890 and I just couldn't get a smooth surface despite my best efforts. I just ordered the suggested Earlex and the 1mm needle to solve that problem.

I think the screen is too shiney becuase I have absolutely no ambient light coming into my cave/basement... none. My ceiling and my front wall (screeen wall) are dark grey. All walls are dark. I have black cloth accoustic pannels up all around my room. It's DARK.

I was wondering if anyone would be kind enough to offer advice on if this seems like a solution:
1. Mix up some SilverFire N/C but decrease the "sterling silver by 2 ounces and add 2 ounces of UPW to knock down the sparkles and whiten it up a bit
2. Lightly sand screen
3. 5-6 light dusters of SilverFire N/C

BTW I have a Sony HW40es ceiling mounted, throw is about 14-15' from screen
Thanks!
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Old 09-16-2015, 07:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Better to leave the SF / NC as is and ad a full 10 oz UPW, thin & Dust.

As to you specific issues:

RSMM Retro has the highest level of Silver content of them all, so sparklies and some degree of glare can occur dependent upon PJ lumen output and placement. It is not a solution for higher Lumen PJs (1800+) and some of it's caveats are why it's not suggested much these days.

Put a 1000 lumen DLP on RS-MM Retro and most of the described issues don't exist.

I recall you have a Sony VLP-HW 40es. Dependent on placement and Screen size, that can be described as being a very bright PJ. Have you calibrated the Sony to the RSMM Retro? If overly bright, have you considered trying a light hued ND Filter?

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Old 09-24-2015, 09:37 PM
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stoked!

So happy to find a DIY method of projector screen paint that is comparable (if not better) than manufactured screens. I am trying to go for a very minimalist living room, so I am going to paint the whole wall with the silver fire paint. I just installed fresh sheetrock and did a almost perfectly smooth texture finish.. My house has a TON of ambient light during the day, so I am wondering if I should use something else besides my smooth walled sheetrock?

Oh and my projector that I am looking to use is a Sony VPL HW40ES. I will have it located about 15' from the wall and i would like to get a 120"ish screen size

Last edited by chevpowr; 09-24-2015 at 09:39 PM. Reason: added projector and size of screen
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Old 09-24-2015, 11:03 PM - Thread Starter
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So happy to find a DIY method of projector screen paint that is comparable (if not better) than manufactured screens. I am trying to go for a very minimalist living room, so I am going to paint the whole wall with the silver fire paint. I just installed fresh sheetrock and did a almost perfectly smooth texture finish.. My house has a TON of ambient light during the day, so I am wondering if I should use something else besides my smooth walled sheetrock?

Oh and my projector that I am looking to use is a Sony VPL HW40ES. I will have it located about 15' from the wall and i would like to get a 120"ish screen size
I would strongly suggest using the newest Commercial version of Silver Fire.

Please go here to continue the discussion: Black Flame

The above mentioned paint will leave you with a extremely dark surface that will still look very attractive...it will be almost Black, but retain 1.0 gain+ so that will both allow for a great deal of ambient Light to be present, and excellent darker room viewing.

It will also eliminate the need for a Frame on the wall, giving you what can only be described as the "perfect" Zero Edge, border-less screen....no matter what Format is shown.

I'm looking forward to helping you realize something very special !

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Old 09-27-2015, 08:27 AM
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I just picked up a benq 1070 and put it on my primered wall. Looks great at night! Not so much for the daytime. Can't wait for the black flame!
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Old 09-27-2015, 06:19 PM
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I need some tips on sanding down my Silver Fire paint on my plexi, for Light Fusion, to achieve Hot Spot, to get a uniform thickness. I'm using a pure white image since it's the brightest and will show a Hot Spot first. I'm finding though, that with a white image, you see the Mica sparkles a lot more and I'm not sure if i will be able to tell the diff between the Hot Spot beginning to come through the paint or that it's just the reflection off the mica bits. I'm using a find grit 220 sandpaper and sanding uniform.
For those of you who have done Light Fusion with Silver Fire what tips could you give me in proper sanding, distinguishing from the Mica sparkles and the hot spot coming through, and whats the best image background to be using at your reference if not white??
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Old 09-29-2015, 02:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Again...too much overthinking.

You "should" use the Blue Screen...not white. A darker surface highlights the lamp's filament against the darker surrounding area. And when it's gone....fini.

And by your trying to sand to remove just enough paint before seeing the pin prick of the Lamp's filament, your doing things backwards. Instead the object is to spray right up until that pin prick disappears...and no more.

Lastly...and I've said it so many, many times.....you should be using a Fine Grit Large Sanding Sponge. 220 grit is just too fine, and no "Block" will distribute sanding pressure as evenly as the large, 9" x 3" x 1" sponge. Sanding on a Screen should never have the object in mind of being done for "material removal"....it's for "Smoothing", and done using extremely light, sweeping strokes that cover a wide area.

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Old 09-29-2015, 03:29 PM
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Could I paint the back side of a Carl's Flexiwhite - and have a reversible screen?

I am re-doing the theater and I'm likely going with a Carl's Flexiwhite kit stretched with bungies on the electrical conduit frame. I'd have curtains surrounding the frame on all sides for esthetics and would hang it from above.

I'm thinking that if I could paint the back I'd be: 1) less nervous about f-ing it up since I'd still have the original surface to use if I butched the paint job - and 2) If I did get it right, I'd have a 'reversible' screen and could still use the original side if I preferred it at times.

Likely projector is the new Epson 2040 but options include the BenQ 1075 (or new upcoming models)
or the Vivitech in similar price range - under or around $1K.

Environment is decently light controlled with medium - dark colored walls and blackout cloth over the windows. Still some ambient light during the day and a little by choice at night for some TV viewing.
'Serious' movie viewing will be in a dark room.
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Old 09-29-2015, 04:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes...you can do it....however the Black Vinyl will need to be primed White first.
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Old 09-29-2015, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
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Again...too much overthinking.

You "should" use the Blue Screen...not white. A darker surface highlights the lamp's filament against the darker surrounding area. And when it's gone....fini.

And by your trying to sand to remove just enough paint before seeing the pin prick of the Lamp's filament, your doing things backwards. Instead the object is to spray right up until that pin prick disappears...and no more.

Lastly...and I've said it so many, many times.....you should be using a Fine Grit Large Sanding Sponge. 220 grit is just too fine, and no "Block" will distribute sanding pressure as evenly as the large, 9" x 3" x 1" sponge. Sanding on a Screen should never have the object in mind of being done for "material removal"....it's for "Smoothing", and done using extremely light, sweeping strokes that cover a wide area.
HOLY COW!!!!!! Okay, I just had a aha moment. I had my thinking wrong on light fusion, at least when it comes to the thickness of the top coat. I thought that fooooorrrr Light Fusion to work you had to have your top coat, which in this case is Silver Fire, to be the same thickness through out. And, that you would not achieve light fusion until you achieved that uniform thickness. I thought that's what the Hot Spot was for. Using it as a means as to judge how thick your paint was.
I guess I thought this, because,It seemed like every time I read about using a hot spot, in forum post, it was used in connection with sanding down the paint till you see the hot spot. I got this messed up by this. Now i see, you just use the hot spot as a means to guide you in knowing when to stop your last duster coats. Man...In that case I've wasted some useless time in sanding. I'll probably finish sanding down this test strip till i see the hot spot, and then do one quicker duster anyways. I had some wrong thinking and you just cleared it up. Thanks MississippiMan.
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Old 09-29-2015, 08:42 PM
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Which is backing material best for this? Dry wall or cheap vinyl screen and pain on top of that? what abou plywood or wood as backing material? which one is good option for this?

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Old 09-30-2015, 01:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Which is backing material best for this? Dry wall or cheap vinyl screen and pain on top of that? what abou plywood or wood as backing material? which one is good option for this?
Smoothed and primed Dry Wall, or any smooth, clean white surface will do best. Painting onto any screen is an option, but not necessarily preferred.

I myself prefer Expanded PVC sheeting such as Sintra or Komatex in 6mm Thickness. No priming needed, it's bright white, smooth, and ready to paint upon.

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Old 10-01-2015, 08:39 AM
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Smoothed and primed Dry Wall, or any smooth, clean white surface will do best. Painting onto any screen is an option, but not necessarily preferred.

I myself prefer Expanded PVC sheeting such as Sintra or Komatex in 6mm Thickness. No priming needed, it's bright white, smooth, and ready to paint upon.
Thank you
i ordered 48 x 96 Sintra ($158 including delivery) , decided to make 100 inch screen using Sliver Fire.

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Old 10-07-2015, 06:51 PM
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So I have this crazy idea involving flex-white and Silver Fire..

I want to make a 98" screen from square aluminum tubing, covered in Flexi-White, that is held on by snaps along the outside edge of the tubing.

The crazy part is, I want to be able to spray is with SF 5, then be able to un-snap the material, roll it up, and transport it. Then re assemble the frame and re-snap the material to it.

With all the poly in SF, would it be able to handle this, constantly being rolled up and unrolled and re-streched? It's a lot to ask, but if anything can handle it, Silver Fire can!
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Old 10-08-2015, 02:05 AM - Thread Starter
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So I have this crazy idea involving flex-white and Silver Fire..

I want to make a 98" screen from square aluminum tubing, covered in Flexi-White, that is held on by snaps along the outside edge of the tubing.

The crazy part is, I want to be able to spray is with SF 5, then be able to un-snap the material, roll it up, and transport it. Then re assemble the frame and re-snap the material to it.

With all the poly in SF, would it be able to handle this, constantly being rolled up and unrolled and re-streched? It's a lot to ask, but if anything can handle it, Silver Fire can!
.........and it can, as long as it is indeed "rolled".

Ask for your Flexi to come on a Roll, and then keep that Roll for use as a storage medium.

(...just not sure what "constantly" means. Your not painting onto a Electric Retractable....)

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Old 10-08-2015, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
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.........and it can, as long as it is indeed "rolled".

Ask for your Flexi to come on a Roll, and then keep that Roll for use as a storage medium.

(...just not sure what "constantly" means. Your not painting onto a Electric Retractable....)
That is some great news!

and I guess i don't mean "constantly" but more so occasionally. I would like to have the ability to unsnap the material from the frame, roll it up, and put it in a 3-4" PVC tube for transportation to a tailgate site or the yard or a friends house.

But knowing this would work makes me very excited!
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Old 10-08-2015, 11:08 AM
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With your portable rolled screen, be mindful of the snaps and how tight against itself you roll the material so you don't put any permanent dents, stretch-marks or scratches in it with its own snaps.

Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
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Old 10-08-2015, 06:50 PM - Thread Starter
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That is some great news!

and I guess i don't mean "constantly" but more so occasionally. I would like to have the ability to unsnap the material from the frame, roll it up, and put it in a 3-4" PVC tube for transportation to a tailgate site or the yard or a friends house.

But knowing this would work makes me very excited!
be was what i was suggesting...not tightly rolling it into a "Cigar" and slipping it into a Tube. You'll need to make a sheath to cover the Roll, but that should suffice for the trip from one location to another.

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Old 10-09-2015, 04:05 AM
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Hi MM,

I'm hoping that you can give me some of your excellent advice on painting a screen. I have a SharpVision XV-Z12000 MK2 that I am setting up for tv viewing in a light filled family room. Unlike my bat cave in the basement that is lined with black felt, this family room will have zero light control beyond the 2" wooden blinds.

I was given a Da-Lite 105" screen and was thinking of painting it with your screen paint recommendation (s). I also have an HVLP system that you recommended and am eager to spray with it. I'm looking for the "best" solution based on my lighting and oversized screen for the light output of my projector.

Thanks in advance for your advice,

Craig J.
p.s. the pictures were taken on a cloudy afternoon.




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Old 10-09-2015, 06:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi MM,

I'm hoping that you can give me some of your excellent advice on painting a screen. I have a SharpVision XY-Z20000 MK2 that I am setting up for tv viewing in a light filled family room. Unlike my bat cave in the basement that is lined with black felt, this family room will have zero light control beyond the 2" wooden blinds.

I was given a Da-Lite 105" screen and was thinking of painting it with your screen paint recommendation (s). I also have an HVLP system that you recommended and am eager to spray with it. I'm looking for the "best" solution based on my lighting and oversized screen for the light output of my projector.

Thanks in advance for your advice,

Craig J.
p.s. the pictures were taken on a cloudy afternoon.
Whew....

At first I didn't see your statement that the screen was 105", and it looked soooo big I dispared upon seeing the size as represented in your photos. An optical "delusion" I suppose. .

Well I got past that, but all that ambient light? You don't mention as to if your viewing habits will be primarily at night. On face value your post seems to refer to the room's surfaces as far as "light control" is concerned, and if that is the chief concern, then no problem, Silver Fire can easily handle the reflection issues coming off that Ceiling, which BTW seems to be the only real concern. Decently restrictive Incandescent lighting should not be much of an issue either

However, if your planning to watch TV viewing in the daytime, and we/you must deal with ambient light in the range shown in your "cloudy afternoon" shots, the XY-Z20000 MK2 is a wee bit week in the knees. I see a Fan on the Ceiling, and it hangs pretty low, so I am also wondering as to where the PJ is located and at what throw. Both those items will have a impact on any potential choice / solution...if indeed one exists.

Just for consideration, at 105" diagonal, if your throw is set at 14' 8" to no more than 16', you will obtain between 16 fl to 15 fl respectively using the XY-Z20000 MK2 and SF v2.5 3.0 Both figures are a bit lower than I like to see when obtuse amounts of ambient light are present, but still, the results will be a quantum leap beyond what any sub 1.0 gain Grey surface would present, and as for a Matte White.....furgitabowdit.

Being a DaLite, it's undoubtedly a "Da-Snap" so the the screen will have to be removed off the Frame and hung/stretched out a bit onto a wall or make-shift frame for spraying. You can use Fine Threaded Truss Head screws (Washer Head w/Phillips Drive) 1.5" long to attach the Screen to a Frame / Wall. ...placing them between the edge of the material and the Snap.

That's it, beyond helping with any painting instructions.

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Old 10-09-2015, 07:29 AM
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Hi MM,

Many thanks for the quick very informative response. I double checked the screen size and I was wrong on the measurements, it is actually 106" diagonal. As usual, you are one step ahead of me in your questions and correct assumptions. The room is 14' X 24' with windows on 3 sides, please excuse the mess. Ambient light through the three sides of the room is my biggest issue. Not planning to watch the projector during the early part of the day, but might watch something after school and into the evening.



Yep, the XV-Z12000 mk2 never was a light cannon, yet still throws a very nice picture in the right setting (small screen and dark room). If the Sharp works in the current location, I will build a taller stand for it, and move it as close to the screen as the screen will allow.

I hope that I've answered your questions to better assist me. Is SF v2.5 3.0 still your recommendations, or is there a new product coming out any day that will be da best? Oh, and I have half a can of Henry's aluminum roofing paint from a prior roofing job if that changes anything.

Much appreciated advice,

Craig
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Old 10-09-2015, 07:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Ditch the Henry's. It has no practical use except for painting the Dog House roof (...if metal...) It was always a grainy metallic, and pushed Blue terribly.

The use of a mobile stand is certainly in your favor. Also, getting a new lamp would make a substantial difference as well.

Take your pick...from $73.50 to $119.00

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...+XV-Z12000+mk2

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Old 10-09-2015, 10:51 AM
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MM,

Finally, I'm just one step ahead as the Sharp has a new lamp with less than 50 hours on it. Based on the additional info, do you still recommend SF 2.5 V3 or is there a "better" option coming soon that is already mixed and almost ready to go?

Craig
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Old 10-09-2015, 04:31 PM - Thread Starter
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MM,

Finally, I'm just one step ahead as the Sharp has a new lamp with less than 50 hours on it. Based on the additional info, do you still recommend SF 2.5 V3 or is there a "better" option coming soon that is already mixed and almost ready to go?

Craig
No....the BF-X1I will come in slightly under the gain of the 3.0 As such it really should be used with PJ of 2K lumen and up.
But if you have an interest in using the commercial variety of BF, go to the Voxel Works BF thread. It (BF) is a step ahead of the DIY SF version due to the incorporation of specially selected components.

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Old 10-09-2015, 08:17 PM
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So I'll start by saying sorry because I'm sure this question has been answered, but after hours of reading threads and countless tries with the search tool, I cannot find an answer.

What type of coverage can one expect from one batch of SF 2.5 N/C given the recommended 7-8 duster coats? What size screen is attainable?
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Old 10-10-2015, 03:16 AM - Thread Starter
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So I'll start by saying sorry because I'm sure this question has been answered, but after hours of reading threads and countless tries with the search tool, I cannot find an answer.

What type of coverage can one expect from one batch of SF 2.5 N/C given the recommended 7-8 duster coats? What size screen is attainable?
142" diagonal +
w/no re-starts.

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Old 10-11-2015, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
142" diagonal +
w/no re-starts.
So should be plenty to spray a 100-120" with enough to do some test spraying to check the sprayer and the mix, correct?
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Old 10-11-2015, 04:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteelBlue07 View Post
So should be plenty to spray a 100-120" with enough to do some test spraying to check the sprayer and the mix, correct?
Yes...absolutely

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Old 10-11-2015, 07:21 PM
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What are the benefits of using the colorant versions over the NC version? Seems like the only difference in materials is $25 worth of paint from Hobby Lobby. Are the final results worth $25 more?
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