The Official Silver Fire V.2 Thread. - Page 85 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2521 of 2534 Old 03-04-2017, 11:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Janhaus View Post
QQ: What is the best way to find a local painter who can correctly apply screenpaint via the HLP method? I self-confess to not being at all a DIY'er when it comes to paint, the mixing of the paints is at my limits. I'm looking to upgrade (paint) my screen (living room wall) and it seems some variant of Silverfire may provide the best aesthetics/performance tradeoff.
Well Janhaus,

I've always specialized in help rank NOOBs be confident enough to pick up a inexpensive Electric HVLP gun and accomplish what they set out to do....and do it better than they ever dreamed they could.

Basically, even a local Painter usually has to readjust his methods to conform to what is considered both the most correct and easiest way to paint a DIY Screen. So why not give it a go yourself?

But if you still too wary to consider, shoot me a PM stating where you live and I'll try to scare up someone, or another viable solution.

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post #2522 of 2534 Old 03-17-2017, 03:50 PM
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Mississippiman, Lowe's no longer carries the rustoleum ultimate polyurethane anymore just Minwax poly....at least not here in NC. Homedepot doesn't carry it as well. What do I use???
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post #2523 of 2534 Old 03-17-2017, 10:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Mississippiman, Lowe's no longer carries the rustoleum ultimate polyurethane anymore just Minwax poly....at least not here in NC. Homedepot doesn't carry it as well. What do I use???
You can find it Online. It is preferred. About 8.00 more than in the store.

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post #2524 of 2534 Old 03-18-2017, 08:36 AM
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You can find it Online. It is preferred. About 8.00 more than in the store.
Uhhgggg...just when most of the silver fire components became available to purchase at locale places...minus the Rust White Pearl....we add another item bound by online purchase only, lol, oh well. That's how it rolls sometimes.
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post #2525 of 2534 Old 03-18-2017, 09:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Uhhgggg...just when most of the silver fire components became available to purchase at locale places...minus the Rust White Pearl....we add another item bound by online purchase only, lol, oh well. That's how it rolls sometimes.
If you can find the MinWax in a Matte, it will suffice. The older formula called for MinWax Satin...primarily because that was what was usually the only available option found at HD & Lowes. The use of all the other "Flat / Matte" components mitigated the Satin's sheen effect.

Subsequent testing and use of the RustOleum product (...as well as it's OEM version "Varathane") showed it to be of higher quality and more resistant to yellowing over a longer period of time. Personally I never observed the MinWax yellow out on any of my screens, and my examples date back 11+ years. But a very few others said they did, so..............

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post #2526 of 2534 Old 03-18-2017, 12:28 PM
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If you can find the MinWax in a Matte, it will suffice. The older formula called for MinWax Satin...primarily because that was what was usually the only available option found at HD & Lowes. The use of all the other "Flat / Matte" components mitigated the Satin's sheen effect.

Subsequent testing and use of the RustOleum product (...as well as it's OEM version "Varathane") showed it to be of higher quality and more resistant to yellowing over a longer period of time. Personally I never observed the MinWax yellow out on any of my screens, and my examples date back 11+ years. But a very few others said they did, so..............
Thanks for the info on the MinWax. Yes, I did see a matte version of the MinWax yesterday so it's good to know I can use it.
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post #2527 of 2534 Old 03-23-2017, 10:52 AM
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So, I was in the paint section of my local Hobby Lobby store and there was a silver metallic Paint that caught my attention. Here's a pic of the paint:



I took a closer look and noticed that just about everything of the paint reminded me of " Martha Stewart" silver paint that lowe's used to sell. Package was the same and even the paint color and texture looked dead on. Have you seen this before Do you think I could use it for Silver Fireu??

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post #2528 of 2534 Old 03-23-2017, 03:01 PM - Thread Starter
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It's strictly your choice to make.

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post #2529 of 2534 Old 03-23-2017, 07:36 PM
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Too few coats. 3 Coats is 4 coats too few. You cannot get a smooth look with a freckled surface.

Try 8 oz Pearl and 4 oz Silver w/2 oz UPW

You should not need the Gold when using RustOleum Metallic paint, but doing so can add a bit warmness to Skin Tones, as well as help the darker 5.0 Gray hue be more neutral. Add it sparingly though. There is Gold already in the Colorant.
Though this was last year, I'm just now getting around to trying it. I had a quick question though. I know the "normal" formula for 1/4 batch of Silver Fire 5.0 would consist of 6oz of Rust-oleum silver and 6 oz of Rust-oleum White pearl, plus the liquitex gold and all the other components that come with it. Will using 8 oz of pearl(instead of the normal 6oz) and 4 oz of silver(instead of using the normal 6oz) result in a lighter shade silver fire 5.0 vs if using the normal recipe?? Or...does the colorant added to it causes it to still wind up the same shade of grey as if i was using the 6 oz silver and 6 oz pearl??
Another question is, if you recall, the adjusted formula of the 8oz pearl and 4oz silver was in response to help reduce sparkles in the image from the mica. How does the addition of the extra pearl help reduce those sparkles?? I've read through ALLLLL of the post in the Silver Fire v2 and original Silver Fire thread and I recall that some people would add extra Behr UPW to help with sparkles. While back, I myself thought i would make a batch using extra Behr UPW to see the results. I made a batch of Silver fire 5.0, using the normal formula, but i doubled the Behr UPW from 2.5 oz(2.5 oz quarter batch 10oz full batch) to 5oz(5oz normal batch 20oz full batch). I liked how even after doubling the Behr UPW it still maintained the shade of grey a normal batch of Silver Fire 5.0 would have. In other words the extra UPW didn't seem to effect the degree of darkness a silver Fire 5.0 would naturally look.
If i had to guess, using the adjusted amounts of Pearl( 8oz instead of 6 oz) and silver(4 oz instead of 6oz) would help maintain gain from the Mica in the Pearl but would also help to reduce sparklies vs keeping the formula standered and just doubling the Behr UPW . I'm Just curious on the relation of how adding extra pearl helps reduce sparkles without having to go the rout of just adding more Behr UPW to the mix????
My main goal is that I would like to try and maintain the same shade of grey that a normal silver fire 5.0 screen would make if using the normal formula of 6 oz pearl(24 oz full batch) and 6oz silver(24 oz full batch) when using the adjustment you gave me of 8 oz pearl and 4 oz silver. Thanks again MississippiMan for you help and being patient with my litany of questions over the years...
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post #2530 of 2534 Old 03-24-2017, 07:59 AM - Thread Starter
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The added White...in the amount specified...does little to lighten the mix beyond what is already is....it's primary purpose is exactly what you guessed, to help mask the individual Mica particles...most specifically the darker Silver metallic, to a greater effect than without.

The greater preponderance of Pearl to Silver has the same intent, only in the case at point, it is the ratio reduction of the darker elements contained within the Silver that accomplishes the goal, and does so without overtly masking / reducing gain.

Sparklies are not nearly the issue to be avoided as is the "Dirty Window" effect caused by the disparity in color between the Pearl's Mica and the Silver's. Also bear in mind that in the case of the Silver, there can be / is instances of Black particles...essentially dark aluminum.

That last element...something that might come as bit of a shock to some, is that aluminum is the primary compound used to coat the Mica. In the case of the differences between "color", it is simply all due to the added Tint.

For some years, Mica was at the center of a huge dispute as to the effectiveness and desirability of it's use, and that of AAA Aluminum. When in actuality, all AAA is is a finely ground Mica coated with a denser coating of....aluminum. In the past, that coating was at a maximum density, as so being affected it's use. Aluminum's properties required Masking then as well, with a dense, color correcting Beige Tint. Once AAA's compound was changed, it essentially just became a weaker, watered down and lighter colored version, one that no longer needed color correction.

The Silver Metallic we suggest nowadays, the RustOleum...it's about 2x darker than the older, Liquitex version, which itself had less Mica in it as well. Once RustOlem came online, the advent of Silver Fire / Black Flame w N/C (No Colorant) became a plausible choice. The darker Gray Base was the advantage...but also the instigator of the "speckled look" (...speckles are not to be confused with sparklies...)

On that last item, Sparklies are something that usually do not present nearly as much dismay as Speckles, nor are they as visible unless viewed while a ultra bright white background is up. Also they are usually only seen when one get up close...within 2-3 feet or less.

We must blame the expectation of perfection on the calls for a DIY Screen that offers up not a single thing to lament. Everyone wants +Gain...High Contrast...perfect Smoothness...no Color Shifting. And of course it all must cost less than nothing in cash or effort.

Hey! We're working on it...continually! Be patient!

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post #2531 of 2534 Old 05-07-2017, 08:33 PM
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Bout time to get this thread bumped back to first page, lol. MississippiMan, when your measuring the Height of your Silver Fire spray pattern, I remember you saying it needs to be between 8-10 inches high. I'm curious though as to which points do you make your measurement at. For instance, Here's a pic of a Silver Fire 5.0 pattern:


At what point do you begin your measurements?? Here's another pic of my spray pattern with the main part of the pattern measured



In this top pic you can see the main CORE of the spray pattern is slightly under 10 inches. Using these 2 pics at what point in the pic should the measurement be made to correspond to a proper 8-10inch pattern?? If YOU were measuring this pattern for a Silver Fire Screen you were about to spray what height would you say this is?? Is this pattern to tall?? Thanks in advance.
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post #2532 of 2534 Old 05-08-2017, 05:00 AM - Thread Starter
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The Main "Core" area of the Pattern.

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post #2533 of 2534 Old 05-08-2017, 05:59 PM
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The Main "Core" area of the Pattern.
correct me if I'm wrong but when doing a test pattern, I'm supposed to hold the trigger down for 3 seconds..correct??
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post #2534 of 2534 Old 05-09-2017, 08:23 AM - Thread Starter
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correct me if I'm wrong but when doing a test pattern, I'm supposed to hold the trigger down for 3 seconds..correct??
2-3 seconds...just long enough to let you see the area of dispersion plainly. Remember that as you spray, no area will ever see such a quantity applied all at once. The reason your making the test is to determine how much row overlap "off-center" you'll be getting when you drop 1/3 the height of the previous Row. (...about the height of one's Fist....)

When my own mixes are applied, using a Earlex Gun w/ 1.0 mm Needle and the power I have using the Wagner Control Spray Max turbine, 2 seconds is all I need to determine things. In many of my Videos you can see me do exactly that.

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