The Official RS-MaxxMudd V.2 Mix - Page 16 - AVS Forum
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post #451 of 719 Old 11-02-2012, 12:07 PM
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I took a picture of what appears to be dark/bright patches, after examining the wall I don't believe it is completely due to the texture, some parts are smooth and this is still noticeable. It also depends on the angle. I know it is probably just the gloss/sheen of the primer but do I need to be concerned when applying the mudd?

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post #452 of 719 Old 11-03-2012, 01:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maligx View Post

I took a picture of what appears to be dark/bright patches, after examining the wall I don't believe it is completely due to the texture, some parts are smooth and this is still noticeable. It also depends on the angle. I know it is probably just the gloss/sheen of the primer but do I need to be concerned when applying the mudd?

Bullseye can exhibit a bit of gloss. And when you spray, remember your apply far less paint than rolling so surface irregularities can...and will show through.

Lightly sand the surface, spray again...then repeat once more if a dried surface still shows gross issues upon inspection.
While any "sheen" isn't so much of a problem, any variance in texture is, so it's always a good idea to lightly sand any final primed surface, wipe clean with a dry cloth, then start spraying on Finish coats.
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post #453 of 719 Old 11-03-2012, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

This thread will serve as the official RS-MaxxMudd V.2.1 Mix... it owes is ancestory to MMudd and these MaxxMudd threads before it.


the original RS-MaxxMudd thread... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ht=rs+maxxmudd

the current RS-MaxxMudd V1 thread... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...axxmudd+thread


RS-MaxxMudd v.2.1 (updated 11-11-2011)


RS-MaxxMudd Retro v.2.1(darkest and highest gain of the rs-maxxmudd mixes, note the amount of SILVER in the mix)


20 oz Liquitex Basics Silver

10 oz Rustoleom Metallic Accents - White Pearl

10 oz Behr 1850 Ultra Pure White - Flat


12 oz Minwax PolyAcrylic Satin Finish

16 oz distilled/tap water**



RS-MaxxMudd v.2.1

(for low to moderate ambient light)


16 oz Liquitex Basics Silver

16 oz Rustoleom Metallic Accents - White Pearl

10 oz Behr 1850 Ultra Pure White - Flat


12 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish

16 oz. distilled/tap water**



RS-MaxxMudd LL v.2.1

(for lower lumen pj's and controlled light home theaters)


20 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl

10 oz. Liquitex Basics Silver

12 oz. Behr 1850 Ultra Pure White - Flat


12 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish

20 oz. distilled/tap water**


this is the only mix of the rs-maxxmudd family that can be rolled

Why are there two astricks next to water?
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post #454 of 719 Old 11-03-2012, 11:17 PM
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How much should I dilute zinnzer 123 for spraying?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
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post #455 of 719 Old 11-04-2012, 05:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gomike View Post

Why are there two astricks next to water?

Toward the bottom of the Formula the (**) are followed by an explanation that the listed amount of water are based around the dilution needs of the newer , higher output Wagner and Graco HVLP guns, which have 2.0 mm Needle / Nozzle assemblies. If one acquires an accessory 1.5 mm Needle / Nozzle for the Graco, the "water to Paint" thinning ratio jumps to 25% (8 oz. to 1 Quart )

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How much should I dilute zinnzer 123 for spraying?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

Approximately 20% Water to Primer. (6.5 oz to 1 Quart)
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post #456 of 719 Old 11-04-2012, 06:10 AM
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Thanks MM, can you offer any advice on using the Wagner PaintREADY HVLP Sprayer?
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post #457 of 719 Old 11-04-2012, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Toward the bottom of the Formula the (**) are followed by an explanation that the listed amount of water are based around the dilution needs of the newer , higher output Wagner and Graco HVLP guns, which have 2.0 mm Needle / Nozzle assemblies. If one acquires an accessory 1.5 mm Needle / Nozzle for the Graco, the "water to Paint" thinning ratio jumps to 25% (8 oz. to 1 Quart )
Approximately 20% Water to Primer. (6.5 oz to 1 Quart)

So if I'm rolling, I still need the 20 oz. of water, right?
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post #458 of 719 Old 11-04-2012, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arrabyla30 View Post

So if I'm rolling, I still need the 20 oz. of water, right?


Yes....................,
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post #459 of 719 Old 11-04-2012, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post


No....just more costly.


You can hit Lowes to acquire some pure white acrylic "Paint" Valspar Base 1 Satin is suggested.


Better still, Sherwin Williams ProClassic Smooth Enamel Satin Finish.

I rolled a temporary screen with the SW ProClassic tinted to Unique Gray and it has hot spotting. I'm 'upgrading' to the RS-MaxxMudd this week and I too picked up the Behr 1850 that now contains primer. Should I be concerned about hot spotting by using the ProClassic Satin instead of the Behr 1850 Flat? I already have my Kilz primer coats applied.
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post #460 of 719 Old 11-04-2012, 07:39 PM
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I plan on applying the Magic Mudd screen in the following weeks. My question is Mattes? What are people using to finish off this project? Many people seem to be using base molding covered in black velvet. This seems fairly crude. I don't want to ruin my hard Magic Mudd work with a crude frame. Is there a paint that would do the job? What are people doing for mattes?

MississippiMan, Thanks for all your work on these forums.
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post #461 of 719 Old 11-04-2012, 10:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arrabyla30 View Post

I rolled a temporary screen with the SW ProClassic tinted to Unique Gray and it has hot spotting. I'm 'upgrading' to the RS-MaxxMudd this week and I too picked up the Behr 1850 that now contains primer. Should I be concerned about hot spotting by using the ProClassic Satin instead of the Behr 1850 Flat? I already have my Kilz primer coats applied.

Yes...if rolling you should be. Using a "Flat" offers far more assurance.

And be certain your using the RS-MaxxMudd LL formula as it's the only MaxxMudd we suggest has the option to be rolled.

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post #462 of 719 Old 11-04-2012, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MavTrav View Post

I plan on applying the Magic Mudd screen in the following weeks. My question is Mattes? What are people using to finish off this project? Many people seem to be using base molding covered in black velvet. This seems fairly crude. I don't want to ruin my hard Magic Mudd work with a crude frame. Is there a paint that would do the job? What are people doing for mattes?
MississippiMan, Thanks for all your work on these forums.

Thank you! And welcome to AVS's DIY Screen Forum !


But..........crude? Lemmie tell ya sumpthin......a well done Black Velvet Trim is the epitome of class.

Painting anything with Black Paint is far more "crude" than a well made, wrapped Black Velvet Frame. All those "many people" who opted to go the more difficult Wrapped Tim route did so because so many before them testified how fabulous their own Black velvet Trim turned out.

Add to that the fact that no paint on Earth exists that can compare to Black Velvets Light masking ability and what's not to love?

Your new....so it's understandable you might easily get a wrong assumption going. But we are all here to help you get purposefully directed toward a successful DIY Screen.

So do not assume anything. Ask questions first before taking any step that does not register with you as being so obvious that breathing seems a complicated task in comparison. Don't get rushed if you have to wait a day or two for a reply either....plowing ahead without being absolutely certain has created most all the issues DIY'ers perennially face. That...and not following sage advice in the first place. wink.gif

Lastly, spend as much time reading other member's Threads as you can....those who have made accomplished DIY Screens. Early on many had to ask the same questions you will probably pose. Frankly speaking, the more you absorb, the more meaningful and directed any questions you might have will be, and the more assured you'll be after you get the answers you seek.

Well....all that, and the less you'll wear me out. tongue.gif

But "crude"? rolleyes.gif

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post #463 of 719 Old 11-05-2012, 05:29 AM
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Thanks for the fast response. I jumped to a conclusion in my head that is probably not accurate regarding the velvet wrapped frame matte. It is something you cannot see detail of in peoples pictures and online video. So thanks for the kick to make me look at this more closely.

I have found dedicated forums hear discussing "Border Masks" and will stop hijacking this one, Thanks again! Can't wait to Mudd my wall!
When i found out they were called Masks, the search became a lot easier.

Quick Question:
What I have read says to do "Dusting Coats" (3' per Second vertical strokes, 18" away with 70% overlap). How many coats would be necessary, and how long is the dry time in-between coats? The last thing I want to do is botch the application.
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post #464 of 719 Old 11-05-2012, 05:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Yes...if rolling you should be. Using a "Flat" offers far more assurance.
And be certain your using the RS-MaxxMudd LL formula as it's the only MaxxMudd we suggest has the option to be rolled.
I guess I will stick with the "New" Behr 1850 UPW Flat. Previously I had great results using Valspar Ultra Premium Interior Latex Flat Enamel Base 1 (210170) so I may go that route. Yes, I am using the RS-MaxxMudd LL formula.

Thanks again for your help, its greatly appreciated!
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post #465 of 719 Old 11-05-2012, 06:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arrabyla30 View Post

I guess I will stick with the "New" Behr 1850 UPW Flat. Previously I had great results using Valspar Ultra Premium Interior Latex Flat Enamel Base 1 (210170) so I may go that route. Yes, I am using the RS-MaxxMudd LL formula.
Thanks again for your help, its greatly appreciated!

Interior Enamels will often still exhibit the very slightest degree of sheen because they tend to dry into a denser, tighter surface coat....therein reflecting a small but noticeably higher degree of light. The use of Flat Enamel is good for circumstances when a darker Gray is used, and efforts to maintain gain are needed. It also is a more durable surface...and that can't be a bad thing in many cases.

But using a dead Flat paint for a base is a way to be certain that it will be far less likely that you will run into any broadly observable Hot Spotting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MavTrav View Post

Thanks for the fast response.
Quick Question:
What I have read says to do "Dusting Coats" (3' per Second vertical strokes, 18" away with 70% overlap). How many coats would be necessary, and how long is the dry time in-between coats? The last thing I want to do is botch the application.

No Sir!

I have never advocated doing "Vertical Strokes". ALL rows are horizontal, with the aforementioned 70% overlap.

Up to the first 3 coats, the surface will still look "Stripey". That's normal because your simply not putting up enough paint to effect total coverage and any spot that gets any less paint will show up as being lighter. But of you are diligently applying using the 70% overlap rule, things really even out by the 4th-5th coat. 6-8 Dusters usually effect total coverage. Going to a full 8 coats is perfectly fine, because if those "Dusters" are really "DUSTERS", you really haven't applied that much paint anyway.

A 3' per Sec. Duster coat will dry enough to allow the next coat in about 25-30 minutes.....and about a full 10 minutes faster if the Temp is above 75 and Humidity is low. ( I often heat up a room..so as to get the coats dry using a honest 25 minutes between coats...,but I always turn off the heat while spraying so no paint dust is sucked into AirReturns....and wait for 10 minutes after a coat before turning it back on to avoid blowing loose dust and hair against the screen surface while it's still sticky..) But the surest way to tell is to wait a full 30 minutes, and then lightly tough the surface. If it feels dry and at room temperature, your good to go. If it feels dry to the touch but still feels cool....wait.

That said, sometimes I reverse and start my horizontal rows at the bottom. I also note the "Striped" areas and will adjust my starting point so the center of the spray pattern runs across the center of striped area that shows to have a less denser coating. As long as you only dropping / rising 30% above/below the previous row, it all evens out quite well.

But with such overlapping, and the subsequent potential to apply too much paint, that is why it's essential to observe dusting technique. Back when i used conventional HVLP, and during my "Break-in" period with the early Wagner CS, I thought I could easily enough see how thick of a paint layer to lay down....and adjust my speed and overlap to meet the task (...usually because I wanted to get done faster...) . It was risky....because of how thin the paint was...and I had just enough issues to switch entirely to "Dusting". Dusting has it's roots in trying to create a tacky surface on very slippery smooth substrates, such as Mirrors and Enameled Metal. So it stood to reason that if using the Dusting technique was strictly adhered to, even a rank NOOB should be able to spray a perfect surface the first time they break out of the Gate.

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post #466 of 719 Old 11-05-2012, 07:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

But using a dead Flat paint for a base is a way to be certain that it will be far less likely that you will run into any broadly observable Hot Spotting.

Any recommendations on a "dead Flat" paint or will the Behr/Valspar be suitable for my scenario with RS-MaxxMudd LL.
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post #467 of 719 Old 11-15-2012, 12:10 PM
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I have another thread about redoing my painted blackout cloth screen "due to a tear" with spandex. I am sorta wanting to get it done over the next few days and do not want to order the spandex and have to wait and end up not liking it. So now i am thinking of painting a foam board and attaching it to my existing frame and boarders i have already. I will be rolling it because i have no sprayer and the WAF is real low right now rolleyes.gif

This is the mix

RS-MaxxMudd LL v.2.1
(for lower lumen pj's and controlled light home theaters)

20 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl
10 oz. Liquitex Basics Silver
12 oz. Behr 1850 Ultra Pure White - Flat

12 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish
20 oz. distilled/tap water**

I have an Epson HD705. Screen size is 92". The room can be light controlled but has some light from windows during the day. The paint formula says for (for lower lumen pj's and controlled light home theaters) will this not work with my setup?I am trying to keep the screen lite because i hang it up when we use it . I do not want to roll paint over the blackout cloth again because it sags a bit when i put pressure to the roller. I am thinking about picking up a sheet of 1/2" 4 x 8 sheet foam from Lowes and priming and then painting it. Lay it over the existing frame and reattach the boarders. Does this sound ok? My screen right now is painted Sherwin Williams Unique Gray. It is a very light shade of gray.

Thank you
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post #468 of 719 Old 11-21-2012, 08:55 AM
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Screen is all done, turned out great.

I decided to go with a 4 x 8 sheet of hardboard and primed it with Kilz 2 primer and sanded between coats. Mixed up the RS-MaxxMudd LL v.2.1 and rolled 3 coats. The mix was straight forward and easy to prepare. Paint rolled easy, i sanded between coats and the finished results had no roller lines. I will post some pics in a bit. Just wanted to say thanks for this great paint mix.
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post #469 of 719 Old 11-21-2012, 09:10 AM
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Hey guys, now that it is finally cooling down around here I am starting to get back into looking at re doing my screen. Currently I have a 104" screen which is simply a wood frame wrapped with stretched BOC. I would like to up this to a 110" screen that is a solid board and painted. I have 2 questions on this.

1. What sort of material is recommended for this since a 110" screen is going to be larger than a 4X8 sheet?
2. How do you recommend mounting something that cannot mount directly on the wall? My current screen is on brackets hung from the wall, so I suppose I could simply continue using them and either glue or screw some 1X2 along the back of the new screen to set it on the brackets....
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post #470 of 719 Old 11-21-2012, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kertofer View Post

Hey guys, now that it is finally cooling down around here I am starting to get back into looking at re doing my screen. Currently I have a 104" screen which is simply a wood frame wrapped with stretched BOC. I would like to up this to a 110" screen that is a solid board and painted. I have 2 questions on this.
1. What sort of material is recommended for this since a 110" screen is going to be larger than a 4X8 sheet?

hello ketofer!

Sintra / Kometex is the most widely suggested material. It is Solid Expanded Foam PVC, specifically made to be painted upon ( Sign Makers use it ) Comes in 120" x 60' so you can have then cut it to 96" x 54" before you pick it up...or 100' x 58" and use the 2" additional area to simply screw the Sintra onto the Wall around the perimeter. Any Screen trim you'd make can then cover the Screws.
Quote:
2. How do you recommend mounting something that cannot mount directly on the wall? My current screen is on brackets hung from the wall, so I suppose I could simply continue using them and either glue or screw some 1X2 along the back of the new screen to set it on the brackets....

The previous advice is best.

Relate as to where your live (City / State) and I can easily source / price you out a sheet.

MMan

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post #471 of 719 Old 11-21-2012, 08:14 PM
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I finished spraying around 3 days ago and noticed there was a lot of graininess/sparkles with light colors, especially white. Is this normal and will it be toned down with the passage of time? I would like to thank mississippi for his help, he was available over the phone and I was able to get it done but probably screwed something up because it doesn't look very impressive, yet. I'm sure it being a drywall doesn't help since all the imperfections are highlighted by the mix. I still need to cover the walls up with dark curtains or something to help the contrast out.
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post #472 of 719 Old 11-22-2012, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maligx View Post

I finished spraying around 3 days ago and noticed there was a lot of graininess/sparkles with light colors, especially white. Is this normal and will it be toned down with the passage of time? I would like to thank mississippi for his help, he was available over the phone and I was able to get it done but probably screwed something up because it doesn't look very impressive, yet. I'm sure it being a drywall doesn't help since all the imperfections are highlighted by the mix. I still need to cover the walls up with dark curtains or something to help the contrast out.

Graininess is enhanced by surface texture. Using a large 3" x 8" x 1" Fine Grit Sanding sponge ( Drywall Dept @ Home Depot ) you can lightly and evenly sand the surface and that will help mitigate any texture. Waiting 3 days is a big help since that gives the Paint time to harden so it will sand evenly.

But the final answer to the "Toning Down" question is that yes....after 3-4 weeks the paint has cured to a point that most sheen is gone. But that also depends upon how heavily the final coat was applied. Even a little bit more than true Dusting applies can create a "too Smooth" surface that will add both sheen and additional gain....the combination of which will both highlight surface irregularities and deposit a too high ratio of metallic particles right onto the surface, resulting in Sparklies.

Once again, a very light, even sanding will reduce that circumstance. But it's always best t5o avoid it in the first place by applying the last two coats as rapid Dusters..

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post #473 of 719 Old 11-23-2012, 10:52 AM
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Is the recommended thickness for Sintra/Komatex 3mm or is the thinner stuff OK as well? I want my screen to be as light as possible since I will be hanging it on brackets.
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post #474 of 719 Old 11-23-2012, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kertofer View Post

Is the recommended thickness for Sintra/Komatex 3mm or is the thinner stuff OK as well? I want my screen to be as light as possible since I will be hanging it on brackets.

3 mm "IS" the "thiinner stuff". You want 6 mm so the material will be more rigid and straight.

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post #475 of 719 Old 12-04-2012, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

T


RS-MaxxMudd LL v.2.1

(for lower lumen pj's and controlled light home theaters)


20 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl

10 oz. Liquitex Basics Silver

12 oz. Behr 1850 Ultra Pure White - Flat


12 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish

20 oz. distilled/tap water**


this is the only mix of the rs-maxxmudd family that can be rolled


1. How big of a screen can be painted with the noted quantitites?

2. On homedepot.ca I can only find Gloss finish of miniwax is there an alternative that I can use?

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post #476 of 719 Old 12-05-2012, 03:03 PM
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156" Diagonal with enough left over to save back for repeated Touch-ups if needed.

Do a search for the "Satin" Water Based Minwax and find another source.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"


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post #477 of 719 Old 12-07-2012, 02:11 PM
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Hi Everyone,

Long time lurker, but have gotten a heap of great info from everyone here. I am finally setting up my HT room and am planning on a DIY painted screen ( I will be going with a 131" 2.35:1 screen) using a panasonic AE8000.

My problem is that I live in Australia. I have managed to find places that will ship all of the paint supplies, except I can't find anywhere that will ship the UWP paint in any of the mentioned brands. Does anyone know of an alternative that is either available in Australia or able to be shipped to Australia?

Thanks for any advice,
M
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post #478 of 719 Old 12-07-2012, 07:12 PM
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Dulux Ultimate White.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"


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post #479 of 719 Old 12-08-2012, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Dulux Ultimate White.

Thanks for that MM. I went and had a look at the local hardware store and they kept trying to sell me Dulux Wash and Wear Flat - Vivid white, telling me they didn't have a Dulux - Ultimate White on their system. I will try to get to a Dulux professional center during the week when they are open.

Cheers,
M.
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post #480 of 719 Old 12-09-2012, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masuta View Post

Thanks for that MM. I went and had a look at the local hardware store and they kept trying to sell me Dulux Wash and Wear Flat - Vivid white, telling me they didn't have a Dulux - Ultimate White on their system. I will try to get to a Dulux professional center during the week when they are open.
Cheers,
M.

The key phrase to ask about is if the paint possesses "Lumitec Technology". If it is not available at all in AU, substituting a "Vivid White in Flat" would not be detrimental.

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