The Official RS-MaxxMudd V.2 Mix - Page 19 - AVS Forum
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post #541 of 749 Old 07-11-2013, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by mbgt72 View Post

Perfect, already ordered a sheet and having it cut from a local sign guy
I think I'm gonna have to go a bit further back due a support beam that cuts across the middle of the room. I'm either around 8' or 12', so I chose further away to get the bigger screen, and figure with the brightness of the Benq projector, it shouldn't be a problem. Ideally though, I agree with you about the 10' distance.
Lol, yea I was thinking velvet but typed felt.

I "felt" that was your intent, but I could not be sure.
Quote:
We're probably going to do a curtain "top" valence and curtains on the side. Would you recommend the same material or something different?

Thinking something sort of like this:

The same material only in a pleasing, deep matte Color (Red-Burgandy-Ultra Deep Blue) will be very easy to drape, creating your own design.
Quote:
Understood. I've come to the realization I'll be buying a sprayer and doing it in the house, just masking off the area and having an exhaust fan.
One followup question, I see your brief explanation of the differences in the 3 mixes, but can you link or expand further the differences and uses. Just trying to get a better grasp of why choose XYZ because of XYZ.

It's kinda hard to be more descriptive without being redundant ( MississippiMan is NEVER redundant, right? rolleyes.gif )

But here goes.

RS-MaxxMudd Retro v.2.1
has the advantage of having more Silver in the mix, so it more greatly enhances Colors and Blacks. It also has the highest gain, so that means it has a slightly smaller viewing cone (...most cannot tell however...) and under certain conditions ( PJ position as relates to viewing position ) one might be able to ascertain some slight graininess (sparklies) This "Spray Only" mix is best for PJs who lack both Lumen output and who have poor contrast specs. That's becoming more of a rarity these days.
.
RS-MaxxMudd v.2.1 is the basic standard approach...improved ambient light viewing under low to moderate ambient light situations, while also enhancing colors and deepening Black Levels. Spray Only

RS-MaxxMudd LL v.2.1 is the "Whitest" of the RS-MMs, and intended for use with PJs that use lower lumen output (...or Iris Reduction) combined with better contrast specifications to achieve the deepest possible Black Levels. Under such dictates, it's usually a case that the room is a Dedicated Theater, Walls & ceilings are ideally colored, and light is under complete control. It's ability to be rolled on instead of sprayed is due to the increase in UPW as additional masking for the reflective particles, although just as every other Painted application, it's overall performance is enhanced when it is sprayed.

How's that? cool.gif

Quote:
Finally:
Is there a good DIY thread about the painting/spraying technique for the material and examples of what people have accomplished with an updated listing of information. I've seen bits & pieces talking about it through various pages of different threads, but haven't seen a consolidated source about the steps to take and tips about the process.

With some of the original threads going back 2,5,7 years in the past, I was hesitant to take for granite that doing it a certain way is still deemed your recommended current approach. Such as best painting tools technique, etc. Thanks for helping out a newb hoping to be able to pass on knowledge to others.

Ok...now that's a typical comment coming from someone who has only made a cursory attempt to find information. We / I see that sort of plea all the time, so don't try to fool us. You can take it for "granite" we are all not "stone" deaf to such.

If you focus on reading my specific threads, almost all have such detailed information within them. It's easy enough to find a complete listing of my Threads...just move your Cursor over my Name just under the Skull Avatar and click on "Threads Started by...". Look specifically for the more recent Threads, especially anything that has "Spraying" in the title.

(...but if you remain uncertain about anything, just Pm me a specific request....I'm almost always readily available to answer...)

Yeah...a really explicit, fully detailed "Sticky" up top of the page would be a great asset, but honestly, direct interaction (...including the occasional "Phoned in" request for advice...) seems to both dispel both the doubts and any misconceptions people develop after reading even the most detailed of dissertations.

Besides...if everyone could simply go to a reference Thread for all the advice and info they could ever need, I'd be able to be put out to pasture.
No more leading the Herd. No more locking horns with strays. No more "Cow patty humor".

Maybe after I reach 20,000 posts...........

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post #542 of 749 Old 07-11-2013, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

I "felt" that was your intent, but I could not be sure.
The same material only in a pleasing, deep matte Color (Red-Burgandy-Ultra Deep Blue) will be very easy to drape, creating your own design.

Perfect, already what I was planning to order!
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

It's kinda hard to be more descriptive without being redundant ( MississippiMan is NEVER redundant, right? rolleyes.gif )

But here goes.

RS-MaxxMudd Retro v.2.1
has the advantage of having more Silver in the mix, so it more greatly enhances Colors and Blacks. It also has the highest gain, so that means it has a slightly smaller viewing cone (...most cannot tell however...) and under certain conditions ( PJ position as relates to viewing position ) one might be able to ascertain some slight graininess (sparklies) This "Spray Only" mix is best for PJs who lack both Lumen output and who have poor contrast specs. That's becoming more of a rarity these days.
.
RS-MaxxMudd v.2.1 is the basic standard approach...improved ambient light viewing under low to moderate ambient light situations, while also enhancing colors and deepening Black Levels. Spray Only

RS-MaxxMudd LL v.2.1 is the "Whitest" of the RS-MMs, and intended for use with PJs that use lower lumen output (...or Iris Reduction) combined with better contrast specifications to achieve the deepest possible Black Levels. Under such dictates, it's usually a case that the room is a Dedicated Theater, Walls & ceilings are ideally colored, and light is under complete control. It's ability to be rolled on instead of sprayed is due to the increase in UPW as additional masking for the reflective particles, although just as every other Painted application, it's overall performance is enhanced when it is sprayed.

How's that? cool.gif

That makes a good bit more sense. My understanding was not in line with that explanation, so that was very helpful and made much more sense. From my reading of the brief intro explanation on page 1, it sounded like Retro provided the best gain and best black output, thus why I was trying to better comprehend everything.
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Ok...now that's a typical comment coming from someone who has only made a cursory attempt to find information. We / I see that sort of plea all the time, so don't try to fool us. You can take it for "granite" we are all not "stone" deaf to such.

If you focus on reading my specific threads, almost all have such detailed information within them. It's easy enough to find a complete listing of my Threads...just move your Cursor over my Name just under the Skull Avatar and click on "Threads Started by...". Look specifically for the more recent Threads, especially anything that has "Spraying" in the title.

(...but if you remain uncertain about anything, just Pm me a specific request....I'm almost always readily available to answer...)

Yeah...a really explicit, fully detailed "Sticky" up top of the page would be a great asset, but honestly, direct interaction (...including the occasional "Phoned in" request for advice...) seems to both dispel both the doubts and any misconceptions people develop after reading even the most detailed of dissertations.

Besides...if everyone could simply go to a reference Thread for all the advice and info they could ever need, I'd be able to be put out to pasture.
No more leading the Herd. No more locking horns with strays. No more "Cow patty humor".

Maybe after I reach 20,000 posts...........

I figured a little smacking around was going to happen by asking such an open question, but in truth I have spent many hours reading through various threads originated by you and other related topic on this forum in the past week or so. I'm a very active forum member on several european car forums, and have made several full write-ups about product reviews and comparisons, but information tends to change so quickly, that if a thread does not have the beginning posted edited with current information, it often means its not as applicable as other current findings/techniques.

That was actually one of the big reasons I asked because the beginning part of this thread has been edited by you several times, but other older threads years ago have not been edited very much, so it raised my curiosity of how currently applicable is it. It sounds like the tried & true techniques don't change quite as much as I expected though, even though this paint mixture has been a work in progress of new developments.

Either way, my apologies and without question, my utmost appreciation. If it weren't threads like this I would have probably gone and bought an over-priced lesser-quality screen from an online retailer. Plus wouldn't of had the satisfaction of building it myself (I'm a big DIY'er so I enjoy projects like this). Pictures and review of the final product will be forthcoming in a couple weeks when the project is done. Thanks
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post #543 of 749 Old 07-24-2013, 03:37 PM
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Just finished reading this thread, and it sounds like I'm not the only one having difficulty finding the paints.


MississippiMan,

Using this mixture from the thread:

RS-MaxxMudd v.2.1
(for low to moderate ambient light)

16 oz Liquitex Basics Silver
16 oz Rustoleom Metallic Accents - White Pearl
10 oz Behr 1850 Ultra Pure White - Flat

12 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish
16 oz. distilled/tap water**

I am having trouble finding the the rustoleom product at Lowes or Home Depot and the Liquitex locally at Michaels.. I have read about substitutes for these, or does anyone have a source for these?
Also, is the new 1850 with primer included working or do i need to switch to something else?

Thanks,
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post #544 of 749 Old 07-24-2013, 04:07 PM
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Most source the Rustoleum on-line

And many get the Liquitex RGBY components via the same method if they happen to have poorly stocked Micheals.

Some do...some don't, but almost without exception, we do not advise that substitutions be made.

Funny, but not too long ago a Member stated he could find none of the Liquitex or Pearl stocked locally, and didn't want to have to wait to order from two different Sites. He mulled over the injustice of it all, looking about for two weeks or so, and wound up trying substitutions he found in local stores. They didn't work (...go figure...) so he backtracked and got everything originally suggested from known web sources in 3-4 days.

He then wrote, "I love my Silver Fire...but what a royal PITA getting all the paints together was !"

I'm still trying to figure that one out. rolleyes.gif

*The Moral*

Just get'ter Dun using the known manner and methods and it all winds up happening quicker, less expensive overall, and with virtually assured results.

Oh yeah....most opt for UPW 1750 Interior Flat Enamel

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post #545 of 749 Old 07-28-2013, 11:38 PM
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MississippiMan,

In an earlier post on this thread, (it's so big my wife called it a blanket) you mentioned that the Metalic Silver Ceramcote Acrylic was a much sought after paint, can this be used in lieu of Liquitex basic silver?
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post #546 of 749 Old 07-29-2013, 02:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renron View Post

MississippiMan,

In an earlier post on this thread, (it's so big my wife called it a blanket) you mentioned that the Metalic Silver Ceramcote Acrylic was a much sought after paint, can this be used in lieu of Liquitex basic silver?
Helping you reach your goal of 20,000 posts...........eek.gif
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Actually, I would suggest against it's use these days. Compared to the other choices, it's product consistency and quality is lacking. It can contain a considerable amount of "Black Mica", which makes 2x Straining needed, and the Silver itself can push things into the Bluer range (...hence why the Metallic Gold was required...)

Tell your Wife I appreciate her restraint, as there have almost assuredly been worse names attributed to these threads by our Significant Others. wink.gif

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post #547 of 749 Old 07-29-2013, 06:53 AM
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I'll be trying the RS-MaxxMudd v.2.1 on a blackout cloth 110" screen this week. I'll be spraying with a wagner. I've previously used the original screen goo mix from years ago with an Infocus X2 and a slightly newer Infocus which replaced the defective original unit. I really liked the screen goo screen but I think your mix is going to be better with my new projector the Optoma HD25-LV. Thanks for the mix!
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post #548 of 749 Old 07-29-2013, 08:30 AM
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When spraying onto BOC, after the first two Duster Coats you need to very lightly sand down the resulting "fuzzy" texture that occurs from the combination of both static and the tendency of the paint to bounce off the coated cloth. Usually, from the 3rd coat on that isn't a problem, but for the best possible surface at the end, if you wind up putting 6 Dusters, and sand after the 2nd, then lightly sand again after the 4th if you in any way feel texture starting to build.

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post #549 of 749 Old 07-29-2013, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

When spraying onto BOC, after the first two Duster Coats you need to very lightly sand down the resulting "fuzzy" texture that occurs from the combination of both static and the tendency of the paint to bounce off the coated cloth. Usually, from the 3rd coat on that isn't a problem, but for the best possible surface at the end, if you wind up putting 6 Dusters, and sand after the 2nd, then lightly sand again after the 4th if you in any way feel texture starting to build.


Thanks for the tip I assume the goo gone pic is a not so subtle hint to use it before I get started eh?
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post #550 of 749 Old 07-29-2013, 10:28 AM
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I think it was more a not too subtle comment on your goo mix screen.
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post #551 of 749 Old 07-29-2013, 11:12 AM
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Yeah....that stuff's been "gone" as far as prudent and wise DIY'ers on this Forum are concerned since 2004. biggrin.gif

Mean 'ol MM couldn't resist....evil sub-human cretin that he is.

But Propers where they are due.

If was back in 2002 that I myself first used G's CRT White for a couple epic sized 14'ers. I choose it because it was to pricey to considered a really Large Fixed Mfg Screen, and at that time I was loathe to use just any 'ol paint. The entire idea of a underlying white base and a overlying semi-translucent top coat just seem to make good sense to this'un.

But right off....issues. First was expense as relates to amount purchased. If you needed any amount over the normal sized two containers provided (Base + Top Coat) it got expensive...and frankly, leastwise back then, the suggested amount of coverage listed was well over the actual amount provided and less than what was needed for a 110" and over sized Screen. Also, although it was stated that it could be rolled (...I bought it before they had "Roller Kits"...) it just took a couple stints to realize the Translucent Top Coat was too easily prone to showing Roller Marks. That meant sanding and re-coating...and that of course meant....more $$$.

I wasn't the only Member encountering those issues......rolleyes.gif

Through all that, Threads kept expounding about how fantastic it could be if sprayed...which made great sense...except HVLP rigs weighed in at over $500.00 and normal DIY'ers were havin' none of that!

So I set to work to create a "All Mixed in One Can" alternative. aka: MississippiMud. It rolled out almost as easily as a true Flat paint, and cost 4x less than Goo no who.

Today's refinements only serve to enforce all the reasons to avoid any overpriced Mfg Screen paint.

So that's the basis of the amusing image above. biggrin.gif

Let it be clear....a GOO screen done right did the job it was intended for...and could do it well.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

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post #552 of 749 Old 07-29-2013, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Yeah....that stuff's been "gone" as far as prudent and wise DIY'ers on this Forum are concerned since 2004. biggrin.gif

Mean 'ol MM couldn't resist....evil sub-human cretin that he is.

But Propers where they are due.

If was back in 2002 that I myself first used G's CRT White for a couple epic sized 14'ers. I choose it because it was to pricey to considered a really Large Fixed Mfg Screen, and at that time I was loathe to use just any 'ol paint. The entire idea of a underlying white base and a overlying semi-translucent top coat just seem to make good sense to this'un.

But right off....issues. First was expense as relates to amount purchased. If you needed any amount over the normal sized two containers provided (Base + Top Coat) it got expensive...and frankly, leastwise back then, the suggested amount of coverage listed was well over the actual amount provided and less than what was needed for a 110" and over sized Screen. Also, although it was stated that it could be rolled (...I bought it before they had "Roller Kits"...) it just took a couple stints to realize the Translucent Top Coat was too easily prone to showing Roller Marks. That meant sanding and re-coating...and that of course meant....more $$$.

I wasn't the only Member encountering those issues......rolleyes.gif

Through all that, Threads kept expounding about how fantastic it could be if sprayed...which made great sense...except HVLP rigs weighed in at over $500.00 and normal DIY'ers were havin' none of that!

So I set to work to create a "All Mixed in One Can" alternative. aka: MississippiMud. It rolled out almost as easily as a true Flat paint, and cost 4x less than Goo no who.

Today's refinements only serve to enforce all the reasons to avoid any overpriced Mfg Screen paint.

So that's the basis of the amusing image above. biggrin.gif

Let it be clear....a GOO screen done right did the job it was intended for...and could do it well.


OH HAH! That one went right over my head. I remember back then when I was buying it thinking there had to be somebody cracking the code :P I understand what you mean about the Goo it worked great for my X2 but of course 10 years later there's been an evolutionary process by sharp dudes like yourself. I signed up as a member here back in 03' ish under a different name and dontchaknow my email was stolen and I don't remember my login. I've recently come back to this forum to ask the occasional question about my HX800 Sony TV and a couple things about my Klipsch Reference speakers. I remembered your call name from down deep in the recesses of my cobwebbed memory and figured after this long you've probably got a hell of a handle on this stuff.
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post #553 of 749 Old 07-29-2013, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neobloodline3d View Post

OH HAH! That one went right over my head. I remember back then when I was buying it thinking there had to be somebody cracking the code :P I remembered your call name from down deep in the recesses of my cobwebbed memory and figured after this long you've probably got a hell of a handle on this stuff.

More like it has a handle on me.....and a tight grip at that!

You will find that RS-MM-LL is much the same, performance wise as was CRT White, but with the added Silver & Pearl & Poly, the consistency of the reflectivity quotient of the Paint layer is equal top to bottom, and in most all cases, the "Matte White" substrate (...or something Primed to achieve such...) supplies whatever "Base" reflectivity needed. Even when one purchases a Substrate like Sintra for a Screen up to 122", the total cost of both a perfect substrate and paint comes out less than on Kit of G**.

Oh yeah....the Contrast enhancement of the RS-MM-LL is much superior to the CRT White, as should be expected with the Silver & Pearl in play.

Ever hear about "Light Fusion"? wink.gif

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #554 of 749 Old 07-30-2013, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

More like it has a handle on me.....and a tight grip at that!

You will find that RS-MM-LL is much the same, performance wise as was CRT White, but with the added Silver & Pearl & Poly, the consistency of the reflectivity quotient of the Paint layer is equal top to bottom, and in most all cases, the "Matte White" substrate (...or something Primed to achieve such...) supplies whatever "Base" reflectivity needed. Even when one purchases a Substrate like Sintra for a Screen up to 122", the total cost of both a perfect substrate and paint comes out less than on Kit of G**.

Oh yeah....the Contrast enhancement of the RS-MM-LL is much superior to the CRT White, as should be expected with the Silver & Pearl in play.

Ever hear about "Light Fusion"? wink.gif

No actually I haven't researched DIY paint that much. I just happened to be thinking about it one day and ran across a couple mud posts. I know a little something about a few things here and there and while reading your theories I agreed with them.

Wow I did a quick search and found some pictures that's very cool. I may have to check that out one of these days :P
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post #555 of 749 Old 07-30-2013, 11:38 AM
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Wow I did a quick search and found some pictures that's very cool. I may have to check that out one of these days. tongue.gif

........and another one bites the dust. biggrin.gif

There aren't many "un-cool" screenies of RS-MM and Silver Fire. cool.gif Best of all, they represent exactly what you can expect to achieve yourself. And if you choose any advanced app (a Zero Edge or Back Lighted screen...even a RS-MM or Silver Fire Light Fusion) you'll get enough assistance to make them a relatively easy do.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #556 of 749 Old 08-02-2013, 09:00 AM
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I sprayed my 110" screen and it turned out fairly well although I did encounter a few issues directly related to not having enough coffee in the morning. Firstly I measured out and dumped the pearl into the wrong paint can by mistake which contained a different white mix than originally intended. DOH! biggrin.gif No problem I caught it before mixing and it miraculously poured right off the top back into the proper container. So the ratio although not strictly by the numbers was decently accurate. Secondly I was a victim of my own carelessness and did not get the paint thin enough on the first attempt thereby creating a great spray through most of the screen when out pops a mess at just the wrong moment. Easily fixed with a remix to thin out the paint. It's essential to get the paint thin enough. The second attempt was much nicer. I also encountered quite a bit of the "build up" texture as previously mentioned which definitely needed to be sanded. In the end I think this is a great project and the mix definitely looks nice on the screen. I'm pretty happy with the results so far. Not difficult if we follow the advice given properly smile.gif
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post #557 of 749 Old 08-06-2013, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neobloodline3d View Post

I sprayed my 110" screen and it turned out fairly well although I did encounter a few issues directly related to not having enough coffee in the morning. I'm pretty happy with the results so far. Not difficult if we follow the advice given properly. smile.gif

Well that all sounds all good.

So...where are the Screen Shots?

Tips:
  • Set Camera on Auto (everything)
  • Stand centered in the room in front of the screen.
  • Using your Zoom, frame the screen with just enough side content to show the room's walls. Roughly 1/10th the actual image width.
  • Pause the image, finding a Frame with no judder or blurring.
  • Use a Tripod or Brace, and at least 2 sec. Shutter delay to avoid image shake related "Fuzziness"

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post #558 of 749 Old 08-06-2013, 11:03 AM
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I'd be happy to post some screenshots if you'd like. I'll probably get to it this weekend. I've got a fairly busy week this week. tongue.gif Thanks for the tips.
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post #559 of 749 Old 08-06-2013, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neobloodline3d View Post

I'd be happy to post some screenshots if you'd like. I'll probably get to it this weekend. I've got a fairly busy week this week. tongue.gif Thanks for the tips.

Too busy to watch you new big screen? Somebody call in the White Coats...this Guys' gotta be currrazy!

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post #560 of 749 Old 08-06-2013, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Too busy to watch you new big screen? Somebody call in the White Coats...this Guys' gotta be currrazy!

HAHA I agree. I've got a Star Trek the Next Generation pinball machine sitting in my dining room that's begging me to finish installing the LED lamp upgrades. I don't know if you are familiar with pinball or not but that machine has like 240 individual lamps and they are all a PITA to get out. It's making for a very long week. So many hobbies so little time biggrin.gif
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post #561 of 749 Old 08-08-2013, 11:26 AM
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Simple question where I have not seen it asked before.

You generally suggest a nameless airless sprayer. Is it ok to spray this with a low pressure gravity feed spray gun? I have those collecting dust in stock on a shelf somewhere, but not a airless sprayer. biggrin.gif
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post #562 of 749 Old 08-08-2013, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by dubya12 View Post

Simple question where I have not seen it asked before.

You generally suggest a nameless airless sprayer. Is it ok to spray this with a low pressure gravity feed spray gun? I have those collecting dust in stock on a shelf somewhere, but not a airless sprayer. biggrin.gif

If the Nozzle size is matched up to the pressure provided as well as the viscosity index of the paint, so that at minimum you get a balanced, dense 8-10" Tall Patten from 12"-14" away, at least you can use it...but with such compressor-fed rigs, you gotta start out with a Tank with no moisture / rusty water inside, you must use Water / Rust Filters...blow out the hose before use...and be able to maintain at least 80-90 psi at the Tank outlet and 40 psi at the Gun to avoid a myriad of potential finish issues.

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post #563 of 749 Old 08-08-2013, 04:14 PM
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TY - That's a lot of trouble for something already solved, plus I imagine the over spray is a pretty big problem.

I called around and there are a couple of people in the family who have airless sprayers. Not that I want to borrow anything from them, God only knows how long I'll be in debt to them, but I'll probably go the airless sprayer with a case of beer route.
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post #564 of 749 Old 08-09-2013, 04:37 PM
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Whoa there,
Airless sprayers are USUALLY the type of extreme high pressure paint application device that you would spray paint the exterior of a house with. If that is what you are considering using the that's a BIG NOPE! Way too much paint and pressure. . HVLP is the ticket. Spring for the El Cheapo that is mentioned on this thread and when your finished, loan it to the relatives........they'll be in your debt!

Ron

"New Member" since 2007....
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post #565 of 749 Old 08-09-2013, 05:47 PM
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Thank you Ron....good catch. cool.gif

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post #566 of 749 Old 08-13-2013, 08:44 PM
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Okay, having a bit of difficulty. All set up and I've made two attempts thus far but think I'll be sanding again. Have everything mixed up and practiced some with the Wagner, but I'm not getting an even spray pattern, fairly sputtery resulting in uneven texture and almost paint run when dry.

I'm keeping a ~12" height, and tried slower passes and slightly quicker passes. It seems like the mist pattern isn't thin enough/even enough. I tried diluting further with distiller water, and still not getting impressive results. First day I think I mixed too fast and added air to the mix, so I thought I'd be better tonight after two days and the mistakes mostly sanded away.

Watching your videos on initial coat, it still seems like it's provides a pretty solid coverage of an area. When I practice on cardboard, it seems like I'm not getting solid coverage on a first pass without going pretty slow, and then right back at the issue of too much paint in one area being clumpy and then having slight runs.

I'll probably be sanding again after everything dries good tomorrow. But getting a bit frustrated with then Wagner and the results I'm getting.

I know a lot of people have had great success with this, so I feel like I must just be missing something, but right now am not sure what that is or what I'm doing wrong.
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post #567 of 749 Old 08-13-2013, 10:33 PM
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I am posting this message in both the s-i-l-v-e-r, silver fire and the Maxxmudd because the straining for these paint mixtues all have one main agenda, getting the paint to strain through the sock strainer at a rate equal to your pour in rate, with only a little back up. but the paint mixture i am using for this whole post is the one I'm using now, s-i-l-v-e-r. Hopefully this well aid others into not having all the problem,s i gathered on me, due to water amounts.
I CAN"T BELIEVE IT!!! All my problems with spraying s-i-l-v-e-r came down to one thing VISCOSITY. But not in how thin it was but how thick the mixture was. When i did the original s-i-l-v-e-r i added to much water to it from tipping my gallon can of mixed s-i-l-v-e-r to much while straining thus making me add more water to make sure the mix didn't back up. After that the mixture was still spitting and all i could think was "add more water, the mixture is still to thick"...Well..after talking with MississippiMan i began to think the whole s-i-l-v-e-r batch i made up still had to much water and maybe...just maybe having to much water was the issue. From that thought i went and bought a quart of Behr Faux glaze and added 2 oz of silver metallic plus the 4 oz of water that would be needed for making a quart of s-i-l-v-e-r plus and extra 1 oz of water for safe meassure. I hooked it up to my graco gun and sprayed. The mix sprayed out WONDERFUL, minus a few spit marks. But, these spit marks were diff then the spit marks from the super diluted, previous mix, so I added about 1 more oz and BAM!! the mixture exited the gun and gave a pattern that it was supposed to. Any other previous time, like if i was spraying some Kiltz primer or some kind of behr paint if i wanted a bigger and smoother spray i would add more water and that would help but not with s-i-l-v-e-r....Why does adding to much water with this formula or silver fire or any other ones make the gun spit more???
Just to give another visual add in. My super diluted, first batch of s-i-l-v-e-r, had a viscosity rating, according to the little visicosity cup that comes with the Graco Spray Station of 2 mins and 20 sec( I know we don't use the viscosity cup to determine the proper viscosity of s-i-l-v-e-r, just wanted a added visual). My new batch with the right amount of water had a viscosity rating over 5 MINS!! I can clearly see now why you don't use the viscosity cup to check for correct viscosity of the paint mixtures offered here. I have the Graco 3900 and the recommended viscosity rating, according to Graco is 190 seconds and they would say to me " you can't spray a mixture out of the 3900 with a viscosity rating over 5 mins....
With this knowledge i now know what happened to my Silver Fire i did last year. TO MUCH WATER!!! It's so cool to know my problem wasn't with a bad spraystation but with human operating error.......I guess that means i was problem, lol. I want everyone to make sure you don't add to much water to your mix, especially when you are using the graco 3900 system. If you have any doubts about things then ask. Second...THIS IS A BIG ONE...Make sure you keep a record of how much water you are adding to your mix. That will help other on this forums diagnose your problem better if you run into a spitting problem like i did....Again, KEEP RECORD of how much water you added to your mixture. I Didn't and now i realize that if i would have, MississippiMan or others would have realized my problem in a jip. Third...THIS IS THE BIGGEST ONE...watch how much you are tipping your gallon can of paint mixture when straining into the paint gun container. If you tilt it to much then more paint will back up into the strainer and you will add to much water to help it flow through the strainer at the speed your are pouring it into the paint gun container . I'll post some video's and pictures to go in more detail on proper straining, when it comes to the angle you tip your can in couple of days.
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post #568 of 749 Old 08-14-2013, 03:15 AM
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mbgt72,

PM is waiting

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post #569 of 749 Old 08-14-2013, 07:29 PM
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I am another satisfied customer! As a newbie with low skills in mechanical manufacturing, I am totally impressed. This is my first front projection setup, retiring a 6 year old JVC 56" HDiLA/LCOS that has done well.

I found a thread on a cheap $20-ish white board sold at west coast Home Depot stores, and it performed very well in brightness and color. But it had this issue that plastic surfaces tend to have... light bleed or afterglow. It also had some minor imperfections that were kind of noticeable in certain white scenarios. But, I had a surface 87 inches wide and 49 inches high.

So, I used it as a surface for the paint. After ordering all the paints, I couldn't decide which darkness to use. So, I went in the middle with 18 ounces of the Liquitex silver and 13 ounces of the Rustolium Metallic White Pearl. The silver was thick, but mixed well into the other fluids, after about 3 or 4 minutes of fairly high speed mixing.

My vacuum feed air spryer was horrible, so I picked up a gravity feed unit for about $30 and went to town. I sprayed four light passes, two horizontal and two vertical, to create a powdery surface. Then, I opened it up and an another 4 passes with heavier coating. After that, I ran 4 more passes about 3 feet away (twice as far as the rest) to add an even powder surface. All-in-all, I used a little less than half of the 69 ounces of paint I had made. The surface was even and without any notable surface imperfections.

In test: I played the same movie I had just watched with the plastic surface and was absolutely amazed and satisfied with the difference. It is like the last 10 percent that makes the 90 percent difference in the final product.

This screen is presenting for an Epson 8350. I was a bit disappointed with the high gray level of the background light... until the image hit the Maxx Mudd surface. I can still slightly see it, after going through a Disney calibration menu on a recent Bluray. One thing I saw that I didn't before was the contrast and brightness tests actually displaying what the menu said I would see. With the plastic screen, I could not justify moving any setting from default. With the Max Mudd surface, I moved the Brightness to 6 and Contrast to -5. After that, all was absolutely great.

Side Note: I live up at 7,000 feet in low humidity. By the time I would get to end of a paint spraying pass, the beginning seemed to be dry on the surface. I did take a break to let the 27 gallon compressor to catch up a couple of times, but went straight through. I had the screen off the wall and back on in a couple of hours.

Thank you for coming up with the Maxx Mudd mix. I'd like to know what the individual components do, such as Liquitex Silver might be for Gamma balance, etc.

Those questioning the process, I can say to just do it, exactly as prescribed. Don't worry and you'll be happy!
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post #570 of 749 Old 08-15-2013, 07:35 PM
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I've been reading through these threads for the past couple of days now and wondering if there is a recently compiled list for the MaxxMudd Mix? I see the original threads date back a couple of years ago and am getting confused as to what exactly should/should not still be used when taking this approach. I also see the mix amounts in this thread but have yet to find the actual mixing instructions. I've read that the instructions need to be followed to the letter but I haven't yet found said instructions.

Can anyone tell me what the approximate cost of the RS MaxxMudd method is?

I'm also interested in using just the SW paint which I've read gets pretty good results too. However, according to this thread http://www.avsforum.com/t/1457958/benq-w1070-screen-paint-newbie-need-help, I can't tell if it is still recommended or not. If I were to go this route, do I go to SW and simply ask for N 8.5 and they'll know what that means? Do I need to tell them a Matte or Satin paint, or is that all part of the N 8.5 code?

I apologize for the newbie questions.

My basement area where the projector will be going is approximately 20x17 with controlled lighting using the BENQ W1070. I plan to have about a 120" screen size painted directly onto the new drywall. I'm guessing I should primer first too?

Thanks!
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