The Official RS-MaxxMudd V.2 Mix - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 699 Old 06-18-2011, 09:51 PM
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So for BOC, I would first spray 2 coats of Behr 1850 and then the V2.1 LL?

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post #32 of 699 Old 06-19-2011, 05:02 AM - Thread Starter
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2 coats of 1850
sand to remove fuzzies.
1 coats of 1850
check for fuzzies again and apply 1850 again if needed.
once everything is baby butt smooth (as possible for BOC)
then V2.1 LL can be applied.
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post #33 of 699 Old 06-20-2011, 04:40 PM
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I am having a tough time finding the Rustoleum Metallic Accents in my area (Southern Maine). Local Home Depot, nor any of the local auto shops seem to carry it. Additionally not having much luck online. Anyone know where I can get this? Is there a product that can be used as a substitute?

Thanks!
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post #34 of 699 Old 06-20-2011, 05:24 PM
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Last question: there a five paints (well 4 + water). Do I just mix all 5 components and start spraying? This would be after 2 coats of base and then sanding.

Thanks!
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post #35 of 699 Old 06-20-2011, 05:28 PM
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I looked everywhere for the Rust-oleum Metallic Accents, and I also couldn't find it. So I tried to locate the ingredients for the v2 mix which had the Delta Pearl White, but my local Michael's Stores have that item on clearance, and I could only locate one 2 Oz. bottle...

Are there any other replacements for the pearl white part that I can easily obtain locally or is buying online at 3 times the cost the only solution ? (Which due to the Canada Post strike may not even be an option)
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post #36 of 699 Old 06-20-2011, 05:42 PM
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Buy it from Amazon. That's where I got mine.

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Met...=5336055023-20
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post #37 of 699 Old 06-20-2011, 07:38 PM - Thread Starter
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@rydeordie99;

go here and enter your state and zip code:
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGCorporate.asp?sn=lr

then call them. most retailers who carry rustoleum can special order it if it's not in stock.
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post #38 of 699 Old 06-20-2011, 08:54 PM
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Sorry, i should have been clear. I am from Canada, and even though my local Home Depot carries Rust-oleum products, they don't stock the metallic accents. I checked RustOleum.ca website, and it does not show the Metallic Accents line like the US website does.

Also the Amazon seller, does not ship to Canada
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post #39 of 699 Old 06-21-2011, 03:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rydeordie99 View Post
I checked RustOleum.ca website, and it does not show the Metallic Accents line like the US website does.
Don't let that stop you. Email them and ask if it's "order-able".

Quote:
Also the Amazon seller, does not ship to Canada
Another option would be to have some willing soul in the US that you know acquire and ship the stuff to you.

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post #40 of 699 Old 06-21-2011, 04:10 AM
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I ended up ordering from Amazon. I was hoping to find a brick and mortar store that carried it local because I have a sprayer due for delivery this week. I was hoping to start spraying my screen this weekend. Hopefully the paint arrives earlier then they have it marked.
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post #41 of 699 Old 06-23-2011, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LazMan View Post

Last question: there a five paints (well 4 + water). Do I just mix all 5 components and start spraying? This would be after 2 coats of base and then sanding.

Thanks!

Can I ask again? I'm about to buy the paints. Do I just mix them up and start spraying? Thanks.
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post #42 of 699 Old 06-23-2011, 09:18 AM - Thread Starter
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@LazMan;

yep. it's that simple...mix up the 4 ingredients + water... thoroughly of course... and spray.
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post #43 of 699 Old 06-23-2011, 09:48 AM
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I was first leaning towards using MM then SilverFire, now back to MM based on some further reading. PB, can you let me know if they are basically the same performance between the two?
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post #44 of 699 Old 06-23-2011, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay7 View Post

I was first leaning towards using MM then SilverFire, now back to MM based on some further reading. PB, can you let me know if they are basically the same performance between the two?

Yeah, I'm curious as to the differences between MM and SilverFire as well, especially in a basement theater room where I'm able to control lighting completely.
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post #45 of 699 Old 06-23-2011, 10:39 AM
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recently acquired new PJ and went to move my DW screen. cracked and ripped. Now looking at possibly painting the wall as a replacement. Though the wall has texture on it so I would need to sand that down.

May go the DW route again.

Decisions.
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post #46 of 699 Old 06-23-2011, 10:51 AM - Thread Starter
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MM is at it's best for dedicated controlled viewing, small to medium levels of ambient light, and in a room that's has medium to dark color decor. Aside from MM retro... while it will increase black levels over a white or off white screen... you would want to use it paired with PJ that already has decent black levels and good contrast.

silver fire is all about improving black levels, increasing real and perceived contrast, and dealing with ambient light. if you've dealt with all the ambient light and reflections issues and your have a PJ with tons of contrast... then MM can go toe to toe with silver fire on 90% of viewing content... but it will never have the black levels that silver fire can provide...especially on scenes where there's a lot of light color fields hitting the screen but with areas that still require intricate amounts of black level detail.
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post #47 of 699 Old 06-23-2011, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedukeo8 View Post

recently acquired new PJ and went to move my DW screen. cracked and ripped. Now looking at possibly painting the wall as a replacement. Though the wall has texture on it so I would need to sand that down.

May go the DW route again.

Decisions.

I think the drywall option is very difficult. Getting a perfect surface, especially since it now has texture on it, would be a huge project.

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post #48 of 699 Old 06-23-2011, 01:36 PM
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So do you think ordering another piece of WilsonArt Designer white and building a frame is a better option?

My original wall mounting solution was fairly hare-brained. I should probably put more thought into it this time.
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post #49 of 699 Old 06-23-2011, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedukeo8 View Post

So do you think ordering another piece of WilsonArt Designer white and building a frame is a better option?

My original wall mounting solution was fairly hare-brained. I should probably put more thought into it this time.

Absolutely. I priced some WilsonArt and they wanted about $300 so I am going a different route but it would probably provide the best surface for painting a screen.

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post #50 of 699 Old 06-23-2011, 01:44 PM
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Right on. I know I can get a fairly big piece for about $100.
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post #51 of 699 Old 06-29-2011, 02:45 PM
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Do any of you know the approximate gain of each of these mixes? Thanks in advance
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post #52 of 699 Old 06-29-2011, 03:26 PM
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I have been using a Behr "SilverScreen" painted screen and have been happy with it, but now wanted to paint a MaxxMudd V.2 screen for my son. I have a good HVLP gun and just wanted to make sure the ingredients I have gathered are the correct items for a room with some ambient light:

16 oz Liquitex Basics Silver
12 oz Rustoleom Metallic Accents - White Pearl
8 oz Liquitex Basics Titanium White

15 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish
15 oz. distilled/tap water**

I am using Thrifty White Board, which is what I used for my SS screen and it worked well. I intend to lightly scuff the shiny side of the TWB before spraying.

I am also wondering about the preferred method of spraying. From what I have read PBMaxx is saying to spray 6 or 7 "Duster Coats" which I take it to mean, very light coats of paint. Is this correct?

I hope I am happy with the results since the ingredients cost nearly $70 whereas the SS paint was less than $20. Thanks for the assistance, I will post some pictures and my opinion of the screen when finished and mounted. My son has a new Vivitek H1080FD projector.
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post #53 of 699 Old 06-30-2011, 06:06 AM
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pb_maxx?
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post #54 of 699 Old 06-30-2011, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 257roberts View Post

pb_maxx?

I'll pipe up.

The prescribed RS-MM v.2 Mix looks to be right.

No...do not scuff the surface of the TWH.

Yes...a "Duster" is a very light coating that deposits fine droplets of paint onto the screen. This is done by maintaining approx 14" from the Screen surface, and moving onto/across the Board at approximately 2-3 ft per second.Left to dry, each coat slowly deposits paint onto the surface/ eventually fills in completely....and the initial sparse coats double as a "Tacking Agent"....creating small dry bumps for additional layers to grab onto.

Very important. With both "Dusters" and any "Normal Coat", be certain to overlap the preceding Row by 70%.

Lastly, be certain that the Top/Bottom/Side edges of the TWH are flat flush against the Wall, or any other surface to be used to support same.. You want to be able to run onto / off the edges and have virtually no "screen's edge" drop-off.

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post #55 of 699 Old 06-30-2011, 11:30 AM
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Thanks Mississippi,
Just duster coats then? No "Normal Coats"? Thanks for letting me know about not scuffing the TWH. I had figured the new paint job would not grip without it.
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post #56 of 699 Old 06-30-2011, 06:25 PM - Thread Starter
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@257roberts;

the 'just go with dusters' is really for the newbie spray painter who doesn't quite have a grasp of how to keep normal coats from the runs.

in any case start with 2 dusters and end with 2 dusters... what you for the 2 to 3 coats in-between depends on your skill level.
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post #57 of 699 Old 06-30-2011, 06:55 PM
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I regularly spray handmade furniture I build, so I'll use your advice to begin with the dusters and spray the middle coats normally. Thanks pb-maxxx for your experimentation on the formulas. The SS screen was easier and cheaper to build, but maybe I will be pleased with your v.2 paint. Like I posted earlier, I will report back with the on-the-wall image results and include a photo or two.
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post #58 of 699 Old 07-04-2011, 08:10 AM
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Screen painted off wall, no runs, but some slight orange peel. Way less than a normal drywall texture, but there nonetheless. Waiting for the paint to cure before mounting. Never seen a paint finish look quite like this. Sort of reflective/translucent. Thank you both for your help and will post some pictures and results when mounted. Just a quick question? Normal screen mounting height would be a third of the screen below eye level? I think my existing screen is mounted that way and seems comfortable to watch for me.
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post #59 of 699 Old 07-07-2011, 06:36 PM
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After days of preparation I finally mixed up some RS-MM LL. In order to get the paint thin enough to spray with my Wagner CS Max (2 turbine) I had to add another 56 ounces of distilled water (30-45 second drain). I hope I didn't ruin the mix. My first coat went on pretty thin and looked good but I couldn't see much of the silver (is that expected?). I lightly sanded (scuffed is more like it) before applying the second coat. This one went on much thicker (most likely operator error), with large paint drops and significant runs that I will need to sand down.

How many coats do people normally apply? How silver will/should the screen look when done? What should I do to minimize these flaws?
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post #60 of 699 Old 07-07-2011, 07:06 PM - Thread Starter
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i don't know how many times we've said over and over... do not use the drain cup... it is nearly useless in determining the viscosity of this mix.

before you spray a screen... you must get a idea of the proper viscosity of your sprayer by practicing and spraying even a cheap gallon of latex paint that has been thinned by water... on even a cheap hardboard so you have an idea of what dusters are and what normal coats are without it running.

if you are spraying... then there should be no need for sanding unless you get the runs... ...in which case you should wait a couple of days to allow the coat to dry before sanding it.
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