The Official RS-MaxxMudd V.2 Mix - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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post #721 of 734 Old 09-25-2014, 08:05 AM
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RS-MaxxMudd Standard or Silver Fire v2.5 2.0

With the X35...even if you stick to 120 " diagonal and set that Boy back all the way at 22' from the screen, you'll still get 18 fls.

Mount the X35 at 13' and use Silver Fire v2.5 2.0 and you'll be able to watch 3D movies with some light on in the room...because you will get over 28 foot lambert of reflective brightness off the screen with Normal lamp, and still make 16-17 fls with 3D content.

Lots to love there!

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post #722 of 734 Old 09-29-2014, 02:02 PM
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Thanks for the input! I plan on installing an ~ 120" screen at 2.35:1 and using the x35 zoom presets to adjust to 16:9 as needed. I plan on watching movies 95% of the time at night in my light controlled room.

So it sounds like a Komex (or generic) for the screen and then the Silver Fire v2.5 2.0 mix... Any compromises in using the Silver Fire over the RS-MaxxMudd Standard for evening viewing? Also, while I'm still working on perfecting my paint spraying skills, can I hand the Komex as-is and use temporarily? I remember that is needed to be rubbed with a magic eraser first - should I do this before painting anyway?

Thanks for all the help.
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post #723 of 734 Old 09-29-2014, 03:43 PM
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Rub it.

No loss of quality with SF v2.5 over RS-MM S....in fact you get even better results with SF v2.5, even using it with no Colorant (SF v2.5-NC)

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post #724 of 734 Old 10-07-2014, 06:16 AM
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Polarization retention for 3D

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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Rub it.

No loss of quality with SF v2.5 over RS-MM S....in fact you get even better results with SF v2.5, even using it with no Colorant (SF v2.5-NC)
I have been reading up on 3D with the JVC, and it sounds like it is important to know how much "Polarization retention" you will have from your screen before you choose which 3D glasses to buy. There are much cheaper versions out there than JVC oem, but if your screen does retain polarization, it is important to get JVC glasses to keep the image bright.... Details HERE.

Any estimates of how much theSF v2.5 (with or without colorant) and/or RS-MM retain polarization?

Thanks!
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post #725 of 734 Old 10-08-2014, 03:10 AM
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Any estimates of how much theSF v2.5 (with or without colorant) and/or RS-MM retain polarization?

Thanks!
There is no real metallic content in Silver Fire. Mica Flakes are more akin to stone....sort of like Feldspar and / or Quartz Crystals. And as far as I know the JVC units do not employ Passive 3D engines.

Only LG did so of the last 3-4 years, and it pretty much fizzled out due to lack of screen availability. Certainly their twin Light Engine PJ was a real torch....but it also was expensive @ $12K

The real reason a screen with polarized Light retention can be an advantage to a system that uses Shutter Glasses is that the metallic content usually is accompanied by significant gain. Barring that, some people manage to match of the angle of incidence of the Screens semi-polarized reflection with specific glasses that are tuned so as to retain brightness through the shutter lenses.

About the time the Thread you liked to was authored, I was in England creating some 200"+ Polarized Screens for SKY. Did 'em up really well to...but the metallic infused paint was extremely toxic and flammable, and the LG cost a bundle, so the project stalled.

Nowadays, it's all about Gain...more than chasing Polarized Light beams. When Passive was producing a better image, and Active Glasses were taking a bad health rap, there was modest intrest...but much of that revolved around Gamers with dual PJs and Circular Polarity Filters they could fine tune.

Dem days are gone now...because a bunch of PJs that do active 3D come in at 2400 to 3000 lumen output in 3D Mode.

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post #726 of 734 Old 10-08-2014, 05:26 AM
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Thanks for the feedback MSMan. I am going to go for it - starting with a plain, "rubbed" generic Komex, and eventually painting with SF v2.5! I'll decide on colorant after I have some viewing time on the Komex and see how ambient light impacts the PQ.

Thanks again!
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post #727 of 734 Old 10-10-2014, 05:27 AM
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Also looking for a good Komex/generic dealer near Mobile, AL or Pensacola, FL. I found AL-FLA Plastics Company in Mobile - they say they can get the 8mm sheets, but not sure yet on pricing.
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post #728 of 734 Old 10-10-2014, 06:45 AM
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Quote:
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Also looking for a good Komex/generic dealer near Mobile, AL or Pensacola, FL. I found AL-FLA Plastics Company in Mobile - they say they can get the 8mm sheets, but not sure yet on pricing.
Piedmont Plastics
Daytona Beach
2175 Mason Ave Daytona Beach, FL 32117
386-274-4627 -- 800-874-7512

Both Laird Plastics and Piedmont Plastics have home offices and distribution in Fla. Laird is in Boca Raton, FL

Be sure to check in and relate the cost quoted so you can get feedback.

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post #729 of 734 Old 10-10-2014, 10:38 PM
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MM,

4.0 darkness seems a bit extreme. Are you sure it will look good on a CRT?

The other choice is getting some cheap wide commando. Getting two yards on the sides should do it.

And yes, I was that close to the walls, or closer. With a 128" wide image you hug the ceiling because of the electrical outlet goes up 18".
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post #730 of 734 Old 10-11-2014, 12:19 AM
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Debonaire,

I made that choice based on the observed situation. I did not recall you were using a CRT (G90?)

Dampening down the wall reflections and using SF v2.5 N/C is best recommended.

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post #731 of 734 Old 10-11-2014, 12:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Debonaire,

I made that choice based on the observed situation. I did not recall you were using a CRT (G90?)

Dampening down the wall reflections and using SF v2.5 N/C is best recommended.
At the time a Dwin hd700 was the cheapest color corect projector.
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post #732 of 734 Old 10-12-2014, 05:05 PM
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At the time a Dwin hd700 was the cheapest color correct projector.
Yeah...but that's been a while back! (2000) Dwin dropped CRTs and produced DLPs for a while, but even the latest TransVision 4e has been out of production since 2009. Strange Mfg. ....they only produced each model for 1 year, then dropped them for the next year's model.

If you have one of the older CRTs however, I seem to recall that by using a DWIN TranScanner (Line Multiplier) that you could scale 4:3 and 16:9 images to fit a 2.39:1 screen, and save all the values in the HD700's memory banks...which I remember that there were 80 different settings! It was the least expensive CRT (...but w/only 7" Tubes...) around at the time ($12K) but now a good working one sells for around $150.00 -$200.00. If it sells at all.

CRTs were the reference standard...but image quality of Digitals has progressed to and beyond their potential. Even so, if you have one, and it works, it's not something to consign to the scrap heap by any means.

It was fun to rethink the past....but nothing more to see here Folks...move along...move along now.

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post #733 of 734 Old 10-12-2014, 06:23 PM
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Once a projector like the Epson LS10k laser becomes proven tech, I'll upgrade. Changing lamps sucks and I don't like how they get to half life in less than 2,000 hours.

If I could afford a Sim2 M150s, I'd upgrade right now.
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post #734 of 734 Old 10-17-2014, 08:26 AM
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For the SF formula, the Liquitex Basics Silver has been replaced with Rustoleum Metallic Accents Sterling Silver. Is that also the proper replacement for the RS-MM formulas or stick with the liquitex?

Sorry -- saw the question answered a few pages back (not sure how I missed it). I'll leave my question there, but from previous posts, the answer is "yes"

Last edited by Crimsont; 10-17-2014 at 08:36 AM. Reason: Found the answer
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