The Official RS-MaxxMudd V.2 Mix - Page 26 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #751 of 779 Old 11-28-2014, 09:13 PM
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S-I-L-V-E-R is not a Ambient Light oriented Mix.

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post #752 of 779 Old 01-09-2015, 07:47 PM
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I'm moving my projector (Optoma HD72) and need to paint a new screen on different wall. My old one was Behr Silverscreen which we were very happy with. I'm thinking of doing the new screen with RS-MaxxMudd LL 2.1. The kids will use it for wii games with some ambient light and sometimes movies.

I want to roll it and it will be about 90". The RS-MaxxMudd LL 2.1 indredients are in my price range. How dark is RS-MaxxMudd LL 2.1 compared to SilverScreen?

Any other advice?
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post #753 of 779 Old 01-10-2015, 06:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwaindwain View Post
I'm moving my projector (Optoma HD72) and need to paint a new screen on different wall. My old one was Behr Silverscreen which we were very happy with. I'm thinking of doing the new screen with RS-MaxxMudd LL 2.1. The kids will use it for wii games with some ambient light and sometimes movies.

I want to roll it and it will be about 90". The RS-MaxxMudd LL 2.1 indredients are in my price range. How dark is RS-MaxxMudd LL 2.1 compared to SilverScreen?

Any other advice?
Very much lighter in the older version, but almost the same shade if you use the newer Rust'Oleum Silver Metallic and White Pearl.

My best advice would be to add an additional 8 oz of UPW to slightly lighten up the shading as well as assure a better rolling experience

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post #754 of 779 Old 01-10-2015, 10:26 AM
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Thanks for your quick reply

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
... almost the same shade if you use the newer Rust'Oleum Silver Metallic and White Pearl.
Am I missing something? I've searched this thread but I don't see anything about Silver Metallic? the recipe on pg 1 of this thread says
Quote:
RS-MaxxMudd LL v.2.1
(for lower lumen pj's and controlled light home theaters)

20 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl
10 oz. Liquitex Basics Silver
12 oz. Behr 1850 Ultra Pure White - Flat

12 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish
20 oz. distilled/tap water**
Has the recipe been tweaked in another post that I haven't seen yet?

I guess what I want is something that's cheap, rollable, the same shade of grey as silverscreen (but more neutral), and with a bit more gain. Thanks for your help.
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post #755 of 779 Old 01-10-2015, 03:45 PM
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Never mind. I found the updated recipe at post 691 (!!!) The Official RS-MaxxMudd V.2 Mix
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post #756 of 779 Old 01-10-2015, 05:53 PM
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Great.
I really didn't want to have to point out the Liquitex Silver is a "Silver Metallic".

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post #757 of 779 Old 01-11-2015, 11:44 AM
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The rustoleum stuff pushes the price out of my comfort range (I'm in Canada). Bummer.

Thanks anyway for your help.
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post #758 of 779 Old 01-11-2015, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwaindwain View Post
The rustoleum stuff pushes the price out of my comfort range (I'm in Canada). Bummer.

Thanks anyway for your help.
Try Folk Art Sterling Silver and White Pearl. 2 oz bottles. Most Craft stores have 'em.

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post #759 of 779 Old 01-11-2015, 06:57 PM
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I currently have the Benq w1070 on order and am planning on an 85'' screen located about 8' away. I am going to spray some Rs-Maxxmudd, but am trying to decide between either the standard or the retro version. Ambient light is present throughout the day for tv watching, but will always be controlled for movies. It's the day viewing with ambient light that has me not wanting to go the LL route as well as the lighter colored walls. I'll have my lamp in eco mode and am a big 3d fan for movies. I am only considering the retro due to the extra gain which may help with the decreased lumen of the 3d and eco lamp mode, but due to the smaller screen and short throw is it needed? Thanks in advanced!

Also, I have gone through many of the threads throughout this forum and just love all of the support from the AVS community.
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post #760 of 779 Old 01-11-2015, 08:43 PM
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Eyeman12,

Go with the Standard RS-MM.

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post #761 of 779 Old 01-12-2015, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Eyeman12,

Go with the Standard RS-MM.
Thank you MM!!
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post #762 of 779 Old 01-20-2015, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanyon_HD20 View Post
Thanks for all the great info everyone! I had a quick question about the Rust-Oleum Metallic Accents. I can't for the life of me find it in my area (checked all the local stores that said they carried their products from their website), the only place i can find it is online but i am forced to but two quarts when all i need is 20oz, not to mention its $50 for 44oz I won't use. My question is has anyone had any success using this instead of the Rust-Oleum.

Thanks in advance.

Also, Thanks MM for guiding me to this forum.
I wasn't able to use the Rustoleum silver or pearl either since I don't have a Menards nearby and I was not going to pay $50 for each one through Amazon when the slightly older version of MaxxMudd still gives an excellent picture. If you can, go with Delta Pearl #02601 and keep with the Liquitex Basics. This is for version 2.0 as you will see in the RS-MaxxMudd V1 thread on the first page. Both are found at Hobby Lobby and Michaels. The rustoleum ingredients are for version 2.1. I am definitely not disappointed in the performance of the modified V2.1 mudd and really I wasn't expecting bad results since this is what was used not too long ago...
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post #763 of 779 Old 01-21-2015, 04:48 PM
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Hi Guys

I can't find Behr 1850. I went to a few HD's with no luck. When I asked the sales people they told me 1850 was a tint in their system. I noticed when you go to HD.com and search 1850 it comes up with 1750. Is that basically the same thing? Should I have it tinted to 1850?

Also is the Earlex still the best option for a sprayer? I have access to a pretty good compressor. Would I be better buying 1.5mm paint gun?
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post #764 of 779 Old 01-25-2015, 06:54 PM
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Well, after reading all 26 pages .. and another 6 in a related thread, I think I'm informed enough to ask a few questions. I'm new to front projectors having just purchased a Sony HW-40ES which I've installed in my finished basement 'media room' which it light controlled and has dark carpet, taupe walls, and the center section of the ceiling is dark taupe. Currently projecting from about 13.5' onto dark taupe painted wall and picture looks pretty good so far even in eco low light mode. I've purchased some 1/2" lightweight MDF which I've modified so I can get about 105" diagonal and will mount a couple of inches from the wall to give a floating look and maybe some LED backlighting. The use is primarily TV watching with a small amount of movie watching. Hopefully that will provide some background for my questions.

1. I will be rolling the MDF so LL appears to be my only choice. But, this appears to be ok since LL is good for low to medium ambient light. However, it also says it's for lower lumen projectors and although I'm no expert, I've read that others consider the HW-40ES to be a 'light canon' even in ECO light mode with my 'smaller' screen size. I also don't plan to use it for 3D either ... so with a gain of 1.3, is LL going to be make it too bright? If so, is there a better alternative?

2. In the RS-MaxxMudd LL v.2.1 formula, why is there a blank line between the first 3 ingredients and the last two? Most posts seem to suggest that you mix all 5 ingredients together before starting with the first coat .. but I've seen some posts talk about a couple of posts talk about putting on a couple of coats of the Behr before putting on the LL mix. Maybe they were just using the Behr as primer. And since the Behr seems to be sold now with a primer included, does that mean I can skip priming with Kilz (or alternative) .. or maybe do a few primer coats with Behr before using the rest of it to make the LL mix?

3. My wife is extremely sensitive to chemical smells .. especially any oil-based stuff but I see that most of the main ingredients are water-based and the Behr paint 1050 and 1750 are now both low odor, zero VOC and the Minwax and Rustoleum Metallic accents are both reportedly low odor ...which is good. But I don't see any info on the Liquitex .. is it quite smelly? If so, I may have to wait for spring and take the whole thing outside.

Great thread BTW .. MM and PB are a fabulous resource with knowledgable explanations about paint properties that at some times I even have trouble following .. but the results seem to speak for themselves.

And if I can contribute a small piece for other Canadians on here .. I've found that the Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl can be found at Home Hardware online if not in the stores. Not cheap but it's a source.

Thanks in advance.
..Ian

Last edited by IanR; 01-25-2015 at 11:00 PM. Reason: added text for clarification
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post #765 of 779 Old 01-26-2015, 07:39 AM
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IanR

Not sure where the discription "Light Cannon" for the HW-40ES can apply? While it certainly isn't a dim PJ, at 1700 lumen output, it falls considerably short of that designation.

At your screen size and throw distance, and using calibrated Cinema modes on low lamp output, RS-MM-LL will be exactly what's needed to give you a spectacular, dynamic image.

You can always attenuate light coming from the PJ, but you cannot conjure up needed or desired brightness that does not already exist.

Also, as time goes on and a Lamp ages and dims, further adjustments upward back into Normal Lamp mode and recalibration can hep restore some performance that has been lost.

Once again....the screen is what is going to help make that all possible to a far greater extent..

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post #766 of 779 Old 01-26-2015, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Not sure where the discription "Light Cannon" for the HW-40ES can apply?
Sorry MM .. wasn't meaning to start a debate .. was just reflecting a number of those comments in the main HW40ES thread and questions about needing a lens filter to dim it down. As I said, I'm no expert but I do know that it's already bright enough for me just projecting on a dark taupe wall which is why I asked. Tks for your comments and perspectives.

Any thoughts on my second or third questions?

Tks ...Ian
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post #767 of 779 Old 01-26-2015, 06:25 PM
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Under some circumstances, applying either White Primer or White paint before hand can greatly increase the reflectivity of the screen. Just the opposite, if you start out with a Light to medium Flat Grey base, the overall tendency would be to darken the surface though the bleed-though of the underlying surface color, and it's tendency to absorb a higher degree of the incoming projected light.

That resulting attenuation is the answer to your concerns, because you could indeed apply RS-MM-LL to a light sanded Taupe surface

Everything used in RS-MM-LL is water based.........everything.

The Liquitex is a good quality Acrylic Water base, and therein has no VOC and very little smell.

Combine everything together and as long as you have some degree of ventilation, there will be no torment to a fairly sensitive nose or eyes.

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post #768 of 779 Old 01-26-2015, 07:34 PM
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MM .. sorry, I must have worded it poorly .. currently just projecting on the taupe wall but the screen I will be painting is MDF.
But you've answered my questions (and then some). Awesome .. tks
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post #769 of 779 Old 01-26-2015, 07:56 PM
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If Rustoleum is used instead of Minwax Polycrylic, do we still use 12 oz, for LL?
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post #770 of 779 Old 01-27-2015, 05:38 AM
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Yes...no change there

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post #771 of 779 Old 01-27-2015, 10:34 AM
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If there was only a need for a "sample" for testing purposes, the amount of each ingredient could be divided accordingly? I don't want to waste the paint if I don't end up liking the result.
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post #772 of 779 Old 01-27-2015, 12:19 PM
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I also have 2 unused liquitex silver jars, but it's about 2.5yrs old. It's not liquid, it hardened up a bit but still looks like it could be used. Should I use it or buy the Rustoleum silver?
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post #773 of 779 Old 01-27-2015, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SvtFoci View Post
I also have 2 unused liquitex silver jars, but it's about 2.5yrs old. It's not liquid, it hardened up a bit but still looks like it could be used. Should I use it or buy the Rustoleum silver?
Scape it all out into a small container, add 2 tepid oz water and stir it up slowly but thoroughly until blended. Strain out any stubborn clumps, and then feel free to use it. Many have before you and were gloriously happy so...................why not you iffin' ya got it on hand?

Quote:
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If there was only a need for a "sample" for testing purposes, the amount of each ingredient could be divided accordingly? I don't want to waste the paint if I don't end up liking the result.
Considering the hundred that have gone on before you, and the sheer lack of discontented postings, I'd say "why waste your time?" Besides, unless you make up a reasonably sized, 2' x 4' sample, anything smaller will not be indicative of the end results of a considerably larger screen

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post #774 of 779 Old 01-27-2015, 05:10 PM
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My current room is fairly small, so I'm only doing about 75" scree, and will be doing half of that to compare with my modified silverscreen I'm currently using. I'm only going to cut the amount in half. My guess is that I'll like it, so recreating the recipe would be easy.

Last edited by SvtFoci; 01-27-2015 at 05:26 PM.
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post #775 of 779 Old Yesterday, 09:31 PM
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There was an earlier suggestion to avoid roller paint trays that have ridges in them since they risk applying the paint unevenly to the roller ..and then to the surface. But yesterday I visited Home Depot and a local specialty paint store and every single tray (metal or plastic) had ridges ..usually on a slight angle so excess drains to the center and back to the 'trough'. What am I missing .. or am I misunderstanding the recommendation?
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post #776 of 779 Old Today, 07:36 AM
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No... The ridges are pretty much a standard feature on all rolling trays, they are there to do exactly what you described. The real trick is not to roll out so much paint off a roller that you leave ridges / indentations on the roller that transfer onto the surface.

That means putting enough paint on the roller that if you used it immediately it would drip, so you run it down the roller tray once, maybe twice, applying light pressure, and then you tilt the roller once for each side, rolling the very edges on the tray to reduce the amount of paint which might be ready to drip off of the very edge of the roller. So as to avoid heavy lines that can develop at the edge of each roller application.

Or you could just spend about $60 on Amazon, get the cheapest HVLP sprayer system you can find, and spray that sucker!

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post #777 of 779 Old Today, 09:34 AM
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Damn it MM, you're making me rethink waiting for warmer weather for spraying since I already have this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000DZ...110_SY165_QL70
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post #778 of 779 Old Today, 11:16 AM
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That would be a very wise choice....

...but I also know how hard it is to wait.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
No... The ridges are pretty much a standard feature on all rolling trays, they are there to do exactly what you described.
Tks for the clarification ...Ian
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