The Official RS-MaxxMudd V.2 Mix - Page 27 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #781 of 806 Old 02-11-2015, 02:47 AM
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If it is a "Clear Matte" (Not Gloss or Semi Gloss) or a Satin and water based, it should do fine.

However making the attempt to use the prescribed components is always worthwhile. Rust-Oleum being the best choice of all.

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post #782 of 806 Old 02-11-2015, 05:35 AM
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Thanks MM for answering.

It is a clear what they call silk matte, which I presume is similar to satin. The way they here show the "shine" is on a scale. This lacquer is a 10 where Semi is from 25 an up, normally around 40. Gloss is around 80. So I will give it a shot.

I totally agree to attempt to use the prescribed components, but Rust-Oleum cannot be found or imported here and Minwax only from the States (+ a lot of taxes....) If I have success with the "adapted" version, I will report back in case any other danes are "listening".

Thanks again.

//Jesper
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post #783 of 806 Old 02-16-2015, 12:01 AM
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Finally finished last week and got around to snapping some pix today. Frame is 1/2" MDF with 3 coats of the RS-MM-LL 2.1 mix after several coats of Behr 1050. At first, I didn't notice any gain but tonight I was listening to a audio podcast on an Apple TV and when it started playing the floating pictures stuff, I suddenly noticed how much more vibrant the colors were. I'm not sure it comes across in the pictures (which are HW40ES in ECO mode BTW) but I'm happy with the result. I was a little nervous when rolling that I seemed to have trouble getting consistent paint loading on the roller so there were variations in the wetness .. but when it was dry there were no visible roller marks. I tried carefully to mimic the instructions/process in the guide and I've been rolling paint for years so no newby .. but maybe its more tolerant than you think.
Tks for helping with clarifications in the last few weeks. Another happy customer.
...Ian
ps. the room is light controlled with dimable downlights and LED uplights .. or no lights. Still experimenting. Screen is 105"
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post #784 of 806 Old 02-17-2015, 06:20 PM
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After spraying the retro, using the wagner of amazon, why would the screen be very shiny and sparkly? I did my best to be use proper technique.
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post #785 of 806 Old 02-18-2015, 05:06 AM
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The Retro has the highest percentages of Silver, and the Wagner lays down the heaviest coats of all the HVLP guns, so both can combine to give one the most reflective surface under those circumstances.

I suggest you give the surface a light but thorough sanding, then apply 2 more coats in a very rapid Duster fashion U...but be certain you maintain the 70% overlap...)

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post #786 of 806 Old 02-18-2015, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
The Retro has the highest percentages of Silver, and the Wagner lays down the heaviest coats of all the HVLP guns, so both can combine to give one the most reflective surface under those circumstances.
Alternatively, do you think it might be possible to very slightly matte the mix (in the appropriate shade) to counter the added reflectivity from heavier coats just enough to get the same level of gain as a thinner but slightly less matted coat?

Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
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post #787 of 806 Old 02-18-2015, 11:46 AM
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Well Maurice offered to help me over the phone, which was extremely nice of him. The advice was to add more of the behr paint and try again. It did help but it was still very shiny, and I feel that the paint may be too thick for the gun to work with. It had trouble keeping a consistent flow of paint.

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post #788 of 806 Old 02-18-2015, 02:04 PM
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A picture of the dried screen
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post #789 of 806 Old 02-18-2015, 05:14 PM
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Yes...that is most deffinitely a slightly textured, too thick coat.

The appearance of the surface should be purely uniform in color....not mottled in any way.

How fast is the paint draining off the Squirrel Cage n ixing tool, and how fast does it drain through the Nylon Sock Netting?

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post #790 of 806 Old 02-18-2015, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
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Yes...that is most deffinitely a slightly textured, too thick coat.

The appearance of the surface should be purely uniform in color....not mottled in any way.

How fast is the paint draining off the Squirrel Cage n ixing tool, and how fast does it drain through the Nylon Sock Netting?
It could be called an ooze through the strainer. I've been thinking about it all day after noticing that the stream of paint isn't constant, and I probably did not add enough water. How should the stream through the strainer look like?
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post #791 of 806 Old 02-18-2015, 11:12 PM
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It could be called an ooze through the strainer. I've been thinking about it all day after noticing that the stream of paint isn't constant, and I probably did not add enough water. How should the stream through the strainer look like?
Have you watched any of the mixing / straining videos? The paint should barely pool in the strainer, then flow through evenly, matching the rate of pour...which should be about the same speed you pout Milk into a small glass.

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post #792 of 806 Old 02-19-2015, 04:43 AM
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I am close to mixing the ingredients in the maxxmudd LL v2

20 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl (a have a very similar product)
8 oz. Liquitex Basics Silver
12 oz. Liquitex Basics Titanium White

15 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish (I have a matte finish)
15 oz. distilled/tap water**

And suddenly start getting concerns. Isn't this a very "glossy" mix? I am suddenly afraid of hotspots? I am especially thinking of all the silver in the mix.

Thanks.

//Jesper
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post #793 of 806 Old 02-19-2015, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Have you watched any of the mixing / straining videos? The paint should barely pool in the strainer, then flow through evenly, matching the rate of pour...which should be about the same speed you pout Milk into a small glass.
I did a while ago, but could not find the same videos again. It sure wasn't like pouring milk into a glass, it was more like a fast ooze. I'll be adding more water and trying again, 2 oz at a time. Practice makes perfect eh. It is annoying when it doesn't work out, but I don't mind doing it till the end result is just as it should be.
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post #794 of 806 Old 02-19-2015, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JesperDK View Post
I am close to mixing the ingredients in the maxxmudd LL v2

20 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl (a have a very similar product)
8 oz. Liquitex Basics Silver
12 oz. Liquitex Basics Titanium White

15 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish (I have a matte finish)
15 oz. distilled/tap water**

And suddenly start getting concerns. Isn't this a very "glossy" mix? I am suddenly afraid of hotspots? I am especially thinking of all the silver in the mix.

Thanks.
//Jesper
Actually, the 8 oz. of Silver Metallic in RS-MM-LL is far less than that of the other versions of this advanced mix. And properly sprayed, it should have NOglossy appearance at all.

SvtFoci
is trying the RS-MM-Retro version, a mix that is completely reverse to RS-MM-LL because it contains 2x the amount of Silver Metallic of the LL and 1/2 the amount of Pearl.

Also, he decided to use Rust-Oleum versions of the Silver / Pearl, which results in a much darker mix.

His sheen issue is due to the paint going up far heavier with each coat than recommended, and also the sheer amount of the Metallic content in relation to the darkness of the shade.

Taken into direct comparison to Silver Fire v2.5 which has equal amounts of Rust-Oleum Silver and Pearl, (which creates a balance between them), the RS-MM-LL is actually much less "reflective" in one sense, owning it's higher gain to a preponderance of Pearlesence....not Silver.

Are you going to Spray or Roll? Please note that the RS-MM-LL mix is known to be the only advancd ix w3e suggest can be rolled....so that alone helps dispel and concerns about overt sheen....although rolling will increase any tendency toward a sheen far more than spraying does.

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post #795 of 806 Old 02-19-2015, 07:46 AM
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I did a while ago, but could not find the same videos again. It sure wasn't like pouring milk into a glass, it was more like a fast ooze. I'll be adding more water and trying again, 2 oz at a time. Practice makes perfect eh. It is annoying when it doesn't work out, but I don't mind doing it till the end result is just as it should be.
Paint Straining Examples out the Kazoo


There ya go...........

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post #796 of 806 Old 02-19-2015, 08:16 AM
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Those are the ones, thanks MM. It's definitely not like that, it needs more water.
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post #797 of 806 Old 02-19-2015, 08:40 AM
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I am planning to spray it using a Ferm airless spraygun. Will try to get the right level of "thickness". I am looking carefully at the previous discussions and will try to see what fits the Ferm best. Will do some testing where I add a little water at the time to learn the reaction.

Thank you for the input on reflectiveness. I expect to start spraying within a week. Can't wait to see the result. Planning on spraying the base coats on as well, hoping to learn some about the spray guns behaviour before getting to the expensive stuff

My game plan with the LL is 2 quick coats and 2-3 slower coats depending on the result. I am on a deadline as the basement room is also used for guests and my wife is planning......

Thanks,
//Jesper
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post #798 of 806 Old 02-19-2015, 10:54 AM
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DO NOT switch up the cadence of the coats. That is a sure way to wind up getting excessive texture. Maintain the quick, Duster Coat method. Such ultra thin coats dry very quickly if the conditions are right, so much so that I can usually apply 7-8 coats in under 3 hours (20 min per)*

* Room Temp at 70+ Use a clean Box or Pole fan to hasten dry times

First off, tell me what size the needle orifice is on your Airless gun. 1.5 mm is the very largest size I recommend, with 1.0 mm being ideally suited. The smaller the Needle, the thinner the paint must be.

Review the Straining Videos I just posted. If you dilute the paint enough to match the flow-through rate in the second Video, either a 1.5 .. or 1.0 mm Needle will work fine.

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post #799 of 806 Old 02-19-2015, 02:08 PM
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If the white melamine board is to be sprayed, does it need to be prepped in any way?

Last edited by SvtFoci; 02-19-2015 at 02:33 PM.
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post #800 of 806 Old 02-19-2015, 11:28 PM
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Quote:
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DO NOT switch up the cadence of the coats. That is a sure way to wind up getting excessive texture. Maintain the quick, Duster Coat method. Such ultra thin coats dry very quickly if the conditions are right, so much so that I can usually apply 7-8 coats in under 3 hours (20 min per)*

* Room Temp at 70+ Use a clean Box or Pole fan to hasten dry times

First off, tell me what size the needle orifice is on your Airless gun. 1.5 mm is the very largest size I recommend, with 1.0 mm being ideally suited. The smaller the Needle, the thinner the paint must be.

Review the Straining Videos I just posted. If you dilute the paint enough to match the flow-through rate in the second Video, either a 1.5 .. or 1.0 mm Needle will work fine.
Okay I will stick to the duster coat method, I can make the room quite warm, maybe 70-75.
The info on the gun is:

Maximum nozzle flow rate 300 g/min
Container capacity 800 ml
Nozzle diameter 0.8 mm
Weight 1.75 kg
Lpa (Sound pressure level) 87.8 dB(A)
Lwa (Sound power level) 100.8 dB(A)
Vibration 18.6 m/s2

I assume that implies a rather thin paint...

//Jesper
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post #801 of 806 Old 02-20-2015, 05:30 AM
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Quote:
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DO NOT switch up the cadence of the coats. That is a sure way to wind up getting excessive texture. Maintain the quick, Duster Coat method. Such ultra thin coats dry very quickly if the conditions are right, so much so that I can usually apply 7-8 coats in under 3 hours (20 min per)*.
BTW do you clean the gun between every coat, when you go at 20 minute intervals?
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post #802 of 806 Old 02-20-2015, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JesperDK View Post
Okay I will stick to the duster coat method, I can make the room quite warm, maybe 70-75.
The info on the gun is:

Maximum nozzle flow rate 300 g/min
Container capacity 800 ml
Nozzle diameter 0.8 mm
Weight 1.75 kg
Lpa (Sound pressure level) 87.8 dB(A)
Lwa (Sound power level) 100.8 dB(A)
Vibration 18.6 m/s2

I assume that implies a rather thin paint...

//Jesper
Yeah....1.0 mm is as small as I've gonr. That would indicate the need to keep thinning with water until you get a even, steady flow that creates a 10" to 12" tall pattern

And I would absolutely say Dusting is mandatory. And with such a small needle, at least 8 coats.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JesperDK View Post
BTW do you clean the gun between every coat, when you go at 20 minute intervals?
No...just wipe the Needle tip and set the gun down. Cleaning every 3rd Coating should suffice, but looking at the coverage coming from the Gun on the 3rd coat will tell the real tale.

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post #803 of 806 Old 02-21-2015, 03:44 AM
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Just to make sure which one is the most recent and recommended mix? Thanks
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post #804 of 806 Old 02-21-2015, 06:41 AM - Thread Starter
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apparently it's been 4 years since I've updated the first page of this thread with the lastest components for the RS-MaxxMudd family...


as of today the Mudd family of mixes has been updated to a Maxx of v2.5
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post #805 of 806 Unread Yesterday, 09:35 PM
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Well, I was pretty happy with my screen and then watched some hockey on it last night. Wow did that ever show up the flaws in some of my roller overlaps. I hadn't noticed it anywhere else but when you see all that white background combined with the ice markings and the motion, you can quickly see about 3 or 4 vertical stripes where my consistency was off or maybe I rolled it too many times or not enough. And once you see it once, it's hard to ignore. But I think watching the playoffs at 105" will convince me to ignore it.
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post #806 of 806 Unread Today, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
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If the white melamine board is to be sprayed, does it need to be prepped in any way?
Gosh...I missed this.

No....the initial 2 ultra light Dusters that produce all those tiny little bumpy dots act like a primer / adhesive to hold all the subsequent coats.

Of course one can prime using a smooth surface Primer such as Glidden's Gripper and that will in fact serve to make the coating adhere all the better and be more resistant to scratching.

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