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The Official RS-MaxxMudd V.2 Mix

115K views 914 replies 138 participants last post by  MississippiMan 
#1 · (Edited)
This thread will serve as the official RS-MaxxMudd V.2.5 Mix... it owes is ancestory to MMudd and these MaxxMudd threads before it.

the original RS-MaxxMudd thread... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ht=rs+maxxmudd
the current RS-MaxxMudd V1 thread... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...axxmudd+thread


RS-MaxxMudd v.2.5 (updated 2-20-2015)


RS-MaxxMudd Retro v.2.5(darkest and highest gain of the rs-maxxmudd mixes, note the amount of SILVER in the mix)

20 oz Rustoleum Metallic Accents - Silver
12 oz Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl
12 oz Behr 1850 Ultra Pure White - Flat

14 oz Rustoleum Ultimate Polyurethane - Matte Finish (water based)
20 oz distilled/tap water**

----------------------------------

RS-MaxxMudd v.2.5
(for low to moderate ambient light)

16 oz Rustoleum Metallic Accents - Silver
16 oz Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl
12 oz Behr 1850 Ultra Pure White - Flat


14 oz. Rustoleum Ultimate Polyurethane - Matte Finish (water based)
20 oz. distilled/tap water**

----------------------------------

RS-MaxxMudd LL v.2.5
(for lower lumen pj's and controlled light home theaters)

20 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl
10 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - Silver
12 oz. Behr 1850 Ultra Pure White - Flat

14 oz. Rustoleum Ultimate Polyurethane - Matte Finish (water based)
20 oz. distilled/tap water**
---------------------------------
this is the only mix of the rs-maxxmudd family that can be rolled
 
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#773 ·
I also have 2 unused liquitex silver jars, but it's about 2.5yrs old. It's not liquid, it hardened up a bit but still looks like it could be used. Should I use it or buy the Rustoleum silver?
Scape it all out into a small container, add 2 tepid oz water and stir it up slowly but thoroughly until blended. Strain out any stubborn clumps, and then feel free to use it. Many have before you and were gloriously happy so...................why not you iffin' ya got it on hand?

If there was only a need for a "sample" for testing purposes, the amount of each ingredient could be divided accordingly? I don't want to waste the paint if I don't end up liking the result.
Considering the hundred that have gone on before you, and the sheer lack of discontented postings, I'd say "why waste your time?" Besides, unless you make up a reasonably sized, 2' x 4' sample, anything smaller will not be indicative of the end results of a considerably larger screen
 
#775 ·
There was an earlier suggestion to avoid roller paint trays that have ridges in them since they risk applying the paint unevenly to the roller ..and then to the surface. But yesterday I visited Home Depot and a local specialty paint store and every single tray (metal or plastic) had ridges ..usually on a slight angle so excess drains to the center and back to the 'trough'. What am I missing .. or am I misunderstanding the recommendation?
 
#776 ·
No... The ridges are pretty much a standard feature on all rolling trays, they are there to do exactly what you described. The real trick is not to roll out so much paint off a roller that you leave ridges / indentations on the roller that transfer onto the surface.

That means putting enough paint on the roller that if you used it immediately it would drip, so you run it down the roller tray once, maybe twice, applying light pressure, and then you tilt the roller once for each side, rolling the very edges on the tray to reduce the amount of paint which might be ready to drip off of the very edge of the roller. So as to avoid heavy lines that can develop at the edge of each roller application.

Or you could just spend about $60 on Amazon, get the cheapest HVLP sprayer system you can find, and spray that sucker!
 
#780 ·
Hi all,

Sorry for disturbing. Planning to make a 110" screen with the MaxxMudd LL, but live far away ;) in Europe (DK) where Minwax 23333 is not so easily found. I can import it though, but it will cost me >$65....

Can I use a local brand or is it vital that it is Minwax or perhaps the rustoleum?

I have found a local brand of waterbased clear lacquer with the below specifications. Will that do? What I am concerned about is the acrylic dispersion and urethan dispersion. Does that correspond with the Minwax? It has the silk surface:

Use: Do not use on hardwood floors.
Drying time: About 4 hours.
Dry to sand: Approximately 4 hours.
Full Cure: Approximately 8 hours.
Application temperature: 15-25˚C.
Can be diluted with: Water should not normally diluted).
Tools: Clean with water and soap.
Contains: Water, acrylic dispersion,
urethandispersion.

Storage: Should be stored dry and frost free, not in direct sunlight and not at high temperature.

Disposal: Empty packaging is disposed of as refuse collection day. Remains returned to service to dispose of chemical waste.

VOC: 45 g / l. Product subcategory: e. The product limit: 130 g / liter.

MAL code (1993): 00-1.


Thanks,
Jesper
 
#781 ·
If it is a "Clear Matte" (Not Gloss or Semi Gloss) or a Satin and water based, it should do fine.

However making the attempt to use the prescribed components is always worthwhile. Rust-Oleum being the best choice of all.
 
#782 ·
Thanks MM for answering.

It is a clear what they call silk matte, which I presume is similar to satin. The way they here show the "shine" is on a scale. This lacquer is a 10 where Semi is from 25 an up, normally around 40. Gloss is around 80. So I will give it a shot.

I totally agree to attempt to use the prescribed components, but Rust-Oleum cannot be found or imported here and Minwax only from the States (+ a lot of taxes....) If I have success with the "adapted" version, I will report back in case any other danes are "listening".

Thanks again.

//Jesper
 
#783 ·
Finally finished last week and got around to snapping some pix today. Frame is 1/2" MDF with 3 coats of the RS-MM-LL 2.1 mix after several coats of Behr 1050. At first, I didn't notice any gain but tonight I was listening to a audio podcast on an Apple TV and when it started playing the floating pictures stuff, I suddenly noticed how much more vibrant the colors were. I'm not sure it comes across in the pictures (which are HW40ES in ECO mode BTW) but I'm happy with the result. I was a little nervous when rolling that I seemed to have trouble getting consistent paint loading on the roller so there were variations in the wetness .. but when it was dry there were no visible roller marks. I tried carefully to mimic the instructions/process in the guide and I've been rolling paint for years so no newby .. but maybe its more tolerant than you think.
Tks for helping with clarifications in the last few weeks. Another happy customer.
...Ian
ps. the room is light controlled with dimable downlights and LED uplights .. or no lights. Still experimenting. Screen is 105"
 

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#785 ·
The Retro has the highest percentages of Silver, and the Wagner lays down the heaviest coats of all the HVLP guns, so both can combine to give one the most reflective surface under those circumstances.

I suggest you give the surface a light but thorough sanding, then apply 2 more coats in a very rapid Duster fashion U...but be certain you maintain the 70% overlap...)
 
#786 ·
The Retro has the highest percentages of Silver, and the Wagner lays down the heaviest coats of all the HVLP guns, so both can combine to give one the most reflective surface under those circumstances.
Alternatively, do you think it might be possible to very slightly matte the mix (in the appropriate shade) to counter the added reflectivity from heavier coats just enough to get the same level of gain as a thinner but slightly less matted coat?
 
#789 ·
Yes...that is most deffinitely a slightly textured, too thick coat.

The appearance of the surface should be purely uniform in color....not mottled in any way.

How fast is the paint draining off the Squirrel Cage n ixing tool, and how fast does it drain through the Nylon Sock Netting?
 
#792 ·
I am close to mixing the ingredients in the maxxmudd LL v2

20 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl (a have a very similar product)
8 oz. Liquitex Basics Silver
12 oz. Liquitex Basics Titanium White

15 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish (I have a matte finish)
15 oz. distilled/tap water**

And suddenly start getting concerns. Isn't this a very "glossy" mix? I am suddenly afraid of hotspots? I am especially thinking of all the silver in the mix.

Thanks.

//Jesper
 
#794 ·
I am close to mixing the ingredients in the maxxmudd LL v2

20 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl (a have a very similar product)
8 oz. Liquitex Basics Silver
12 oz. Liquitex Basics Titanium White

15 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish (I have a matte finish)
15 oz. distilled/tap water**

And suddenly start getting concerns. Isn't this a very "glossy" mix? I am suddenly afraid of hotspots? I am especially thinking of all the silver in the mix.

Thanks.
//Jesper
Actually, the 8 oz. of Silver Metallic in RS-MM-LL is far less than that of the other versions of this advanced mix. And properly sprayed, it should have NOglossy appearance at all.

SvtFoci
is trying the RS-MM-Retro version, a mix that is completely reverse to RS-MM-LL because it contains 2x the amount of Silver Metallic of the LL and 1/2 the amount of Pearl.

Also, he decided to use Rust-Oleum versions of the Silver / Pearl, which results in a much darker mix.

His sheen issue is due to the paint going up far heavier with each coat than recommended, and also the sheer amount of the Metallic content in relation to the darkness of the shade.

Taken into direct comparison to Silver Fire v2.5 which has equal amounts of Rust-Oleum Silver and Pearl, (which creates a balance between them), the RS-MM-LL is actually much less "reflective" in one sense, owning it's higher gain to a preponderance of Pearlesence....not Silver.

Are you going to Spray or Roll? Please note that the RS-MM-LL mix is known to be the only advancd ix w3e suggest can be rolled....so that alone helps dispel and concerns about overt sheen....although rolling will increase any tendency toward a sheen far more than spraying does.
 
#797 ·
I am planning to spray it using a Ferm airless spraygun. Will try to get the right level of "thickness". I am looking carefully at the previous discussions and will try to see what fits the Ferm best. Will do some testing where I add a little water at the time to learn the reaction.

Thank you for the input on reflectiveness. I expect to start spraying within a week. Can't wait to see the result. Planning on spraying the base coats on as well, hoping to learn some about the spray guns behaviour before getting to the expensive stuff :)

My game plan with the LL is 2 quick coats and 2-3 slower coats depending on the result. I am on a deadline as the basement room is also used for guests and my wife is planning......:D

Thanks,
//Jesper
 
#798 ·
DO NOT switch up the cadence of the coats. That is a sure way to wind up getting excessive texture. Maintain the quick, Duster Coat method. Such ultra thin coats dry very quickly if the conditions are right, so much so that I can usually apply 7-8 coats in under 3 hours (20 min per)*

* Room Temp at 70+ Use a clean Box or Pole fan to hasten dry times

First off, tell me what size the needle orifice is on your Airless gun. 1.5 mm is the very largest size I recommend, with 1.0 mm being ideally suited. The smaller the Needle, the thinner the paint must be.

Review the Straining Videos I just posted. If you dilute the paint enough to match the flow-through rate in the second Video, either a 1.5 .. or 1.0 mm Needle will work fine.
 
#800 ·
Okay I will stick to the duster coat method, I can make the room quite warm, maybe 70-75.
The info on the gun is:

Maximum nozzle flow rate 300 g/min
Container capacity 800 ml
Nozzle diameter 0.8 mm
Weight 1.75 kg
Lpa (Sound pressure level) 87.8 dB(A)
Lwa (Sound power level) 100.8 dB(A)
Vibration 18.6 m/s2

I assume that implies a rather thin paint...

//Jesper
 
#806 ·
Gosh...I missed this.

No....the initial 2 ultra light Dusters that produce all those tiny little bumpy dots act like a primer / adhesive to hold all the subsequent coats.

Of course one can prime using a smooth surface Primer such as Glidden's Gripper and that will in fact serve to make the coating adhere all the better and be more resistant to scratching.
 
#805 ·
Well, I was pretty happy with my screen and then watched some hockey on it last night. Wow did that ever show up the flaws in some of my roller overlaps. I hadn't noticed it anywhere else but when you see all that white background combined with the ice markings and the motion, you can quickly see about 3 or 4 vertical stripes where my consistency was off or maybe I rolled it too many times or not enough. And once you see it once, it's hard to ignore. But I think watching the playoffs at 105" will convince me to ignore it.
 
#809 ·
I had the same experience. I think that hockey games must the most demanding thing to watch as far as the quality of rolling, as much of the image is white and it is moving all the time. I have the same quandary as you now: do I learn to live with it, sand & re-paint it, or buy a sprayer (but wife is losing patience with my perfectionist tendencies). Everything apart from hockey looks fantastic - but I watch hockey a lot!
 
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